Engine install

[Butter]

Hello, I believe my engine is ready to install. I have the tranny attached, I’m missing some mounting bolts but I’ll figure that out. Here’s my question.

Currently the engine mounting brackets are installed in the empty engine bay. Do I bolt them on the engine and install or drop the engine in to the bracket?

Thanks!

(I didn’t pull the engine and it’s my first engine install)

[AZKen]

That's a very good question. When I installed my motor I didn't know. I just mounted the metal brackets to motor, lowered motor into position and added the rubber bits at that time. Pre assembly depends on which part of the rubber mount has the best tool access after touch down. You won't get into trouble because you can raise and low the motor while its chained on hoist. In my case, it is a 4X4. Different mount brackets. I just worry about shearing off the rubber by an out of control 900 lb motor/tranny.
Be sure, ahead of time, that the rubber motor mount studs/bolts used, will accept the washer and nuts thread on easily.

Even though I may think that pre-assembling the rubber to truck first will work, I still prefer to wait until motor is done swinging and jerking and sliding and close to final position before getting the rubber involved.

See what you think and do what seems best. BTW: is your tranny cross member removable or welded in place? I've seen both. Hope it's the removable type.

The motor will be slung with a downward angle to rear. It will "wind in" "rotate in". Have a jack ready to go under trans. To support, raise and lower and move around. Have the seat out and the trans cover off. You can sling the trans with a strap and move it around thru the trans hole if that's better for you. Have the cross member mounting, and the trans to cross member bolts/threads, pre tested and sorted before beginning. Shifter removed from trans. Dizzy cap removed. If front clip is off, it's a piece of cake. Did you replace rear output shaft seal on trans? If not, may spill oil upon tilting.
If I missed something or misspoke, maybe someone will correct/advise.

[Butter]

Thanks again for the info AZKen. We had to cut the middle of the cross member out, unfortunately while the engine/trans was half way in. (My dad didn’t believe me when I told him it needed to be removed until it was obvious) It was a tough cut but we got it. The whole job was quite difficult. We didn’t remove the trans cover either which made the job really hard. Currently the trans mounts are in and 3 of the bolts on the front right motor mount are in but we are having a very hard time lining up the other front motor mount. I have some ideas but we had to call it a day. There are a couple plugs on my 305c that are making the mounts not flush and bolts not lining up. This engine came out of a 3500/4000 and there are a few differences that made this job more difficult IMO. The water pump housing and fan are too high up and I’ll have to go with an electric fan. Hopefully we can get those mounts buttoned up tomorrow. I really appreciate your time and info regarding this. It was very helpful.

[AZKen]

I was not up on the 305C. Did not know it was different. I will probably caution the next person who decides to use one. I will refer them to this thread. Thank you for updating us all. This is what a forum is for.

[bigblockv6]

There are a couple plugs on my 305c that are making the mounts not flush and bolts not lining up. This engine came out of a 3500/4000 and there are a few differences that made this job more difficult IMO. The water pump housing and fan are too high up and I’ll have to go with an electric fan. Hopefully we can get those mounts buttoned up tomorrow. I really appreciate your time and info regarding this. It was very helpful.[/QUOTE]
You can used the waterpump/timing cover house from a 305A, D or E engine to make your installation easier. Only other thing that would make the installation a bit different is the 305C engine like any other bigger truck applications don't have the stud on the passenger side of the block for the motormount bracket. there is a plug there that you can drill & type then install a threaded stud. These are same things I also dealt with when converting from a 305E to a 478M.

[Butter]

Update: The motor mount bolts when in easy the next day. We did fab a stud for the one side before the install. The biggest issue was the cross member. I have water pump housing from a 305e but didn’t want to pull the flywheel so I left the bigger truck (305c) housing on.. I hope I can find a fan that will work.

Now, while I’m waiting fo the carb to be rebuilt we are trying to wire this up. If there are any threads or info available I’d sure like to know. Thanks!

[Butter]

Also, Where can I can an exhaust? Napa doesn’t have anything and I’m not seeing anything online for a direct replacement. (305c) 1 ton dually

[AZKen]

Start a new thread in electrical for wiring. Ignition to get it started is easy. The rest is a bit more work. What wiring do you need to do? What experience do you have? Can you read a wiring diagram and wire from that?

Do you have the exhaust manifolds? You can have a muffler shop build the rest.
There is a company that sells a complete exhaust. "Direct replacement" for about $400. Not worth it and may not fit your truck series/305C and etc.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by Butter

Also, Where can I can an exhaust? Napa doesn’t have anything and I’m not seeing anything online for a direct replacement. (305c) 1 ton dually

There's a place that makes exhausts on Ebay. I haven't tried them myself, just seen the ads. This shows some manifolds too, then the "Aluminized exhaust" listings.

305 v6 exhaust

[AZKen]

Per FMAP, I edited my post to include the Company link.