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Interiors, Dash, Lights and Electrical Everything Inside |
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#11
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Tested the turn signal switch with the right colors together. No reaction on the multitester with ohms. Multitester current directly through the cables of the turn light switch is ok.
Stop light switch shows me some resistance. Thanks for your patience ![]() |
#12
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Update
Everything is hooked up. - Front light is OK - High beam is OK - Parking light (separate harness because of law here) is OK - Tail light is OK - Dome light is OK - Turn signal front not OK - Turn signal back not OK - Brake light not OK Tested the wires: - Orange wire brake switch 12V - White wire brake switch 12V if pedal is pushed - White wire on the connector to the turn signal switch 12V if pedal is pushed - White wire on the connector of the turn signal switch 12V if pedal is pushed - Green wire on the turn signal switch 12V if pedal is pushed and switch in neutral position - Other wires no voltage in neutral or left/right position Maybe someone have an advice |
#13
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Hello Tom, I recommend starting new on this wiring thing. OK? Here we go.
Stop testing. Stop looking at fuse panel. For now. Look at the wiring diagram for 1965 GMC. You will see the turn signal switch. The diagram shows Violet. N(white), Black, Dark Blue, Light Blue, Dark Green, Yellow and Gray wires. 8 wires coming out of the switch. (One extra gray wire probably not there). Find the connector from thr swich wher Lizzy describes..... and tell us if there are those wires and those colors coming out of the turn signal switch and going to one half of the connector. Do not proceed until you post this information. Make sure you check this website forum often so the time zone difference does not slow us down too much. We should now go one step at a time at first. As you know: The "Turn Signal Switch" is a switch inside the steering wheel/column. Operated by a lever. This switch has wires running down the column to one half of a connector. The other half of the connector is wired to the truck/harness. These connectors are "plugged" into each other (mated). If any test are given, we will only be interested in finding 12V, not ohms. Unless we want a continuity test, which just confirms if a wire is connected from one point to another. We won't need an ohms value. You will find the Continuity setting on your multimeter. Sometimes it's a buzzer sound. You need to have a front dual filament parking brake socket/bulb each side. In the rear you need the rear light to have a dual filament socket/bulb each side. Please advise. Also Please explain fully and completely so we can understand this statement "Parking light (separate harness because of law here)" I see you are doing a wonderful restoration. Good job. I believe your lighting problem is just a slight miswire which we will find as we proceed slowly. 1. Did you buy a complete harness or building your own? If you bought one please give vendor and part number of the harness. 2. If you are making your own, what fuse panel, what sockets, what connectors are you using? Vendor and part number. Explain carefully. 3. Are you using original headlight switch, park and tail sockets, ignition switch, turn signal switch???? 4. What is your experience level with automotive wiring? It's always a bit more difficult for both of us due to slight language and time zones. We try not to wait days for each response if we can. We will lose progress. I will do my best. Last edited by AZKen; February 21st, 2023 at 05:58 AM. |
#14
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Try to do my best
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violet, white, black, yellow, dark blue, light blue, dark green. I cut away the half moon connector because on truckside harness it was missing. I crimped a new connector. On the side of the turn signal switch I removed the connector for the photo to get it out of the steering column. ![]() Quote:
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2. I used the original fuse panel, the original sockets, and bought new original connectors/terminals (Packard 56 Serie) or used the original ones which were in good condition. The only connector I was not able to buy was the half moon connector of the turn signal / truck side harness. 3. Head light switch I don't know if it is orignial but the wiring is like the original one. Tail sockets are new from LMC and park sockets are after market I think. They were put in by the pre owner. Ignition switch is original, also the turn signal switch. 4. No experience in automotive wiring until this project. ![]() ![]() Quote:
![]() Last edited by GMCTom; February 21st, 2023 at 08:06 AM. |
#15
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Ok I am studying your message an pics. Stand by.
Last edited by AZKen; February 21st, 2023 at 08:44 AM. |
#16
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First question. Front lighting. Why did you use a headlight with built-in bulb instead of the park and turn lights on the hood? What is that little built-in bulb for? So you must be saying that your law requires that you use a sealed beam head light with the turn signal built into it and use a separate light (in your case the lights on the hood) as the park lights?
Last edited by AZKen; February 21st, 2023 at 08:59 AM. |
#17
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Turn signal for itself in orange in the hood is OK. It is also not allowed to use sealed beam head lights. It must be possible to change the bulb (H4) in the event of a failure. Last edited by GMCTom; February 21st, 2023 at 09:01 AM. |
#18
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OK, so no need for dual filament up front, right?
next question. What are the square plastic orange colored items on the wires? Are they a splice? why? Last edited by AZKen; February 21st, 2023 at 09:11 AM. |
#19
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With that connectors you can connect wires with one click. I only used them for testing the turn signal bulbs directly on the battery if the bulbs and flasher were ok.
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#20
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So, they will come off soon? They seem to be the turn signal, right? and then how will you wire? direct to socket contact of the turn signal housing.?
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