1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

The second lights were connected with a different plug than the first one. It looked like a simple socket so I pulled and worked it back and forth until it popped out. Then I wondered if I broke it. I might end up re-wiring this light.



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I looked at the wire track now, wondering how I'd get this fat plug through the hole in the bed side.



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I followed them to here. It seems there's a junction block of sorts, at least on my truck, under the rail near the bumper.



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The top light plugged in here, the bottom next to it here.



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Before pulling it through I checked the routing. It wasn't exactly elegant. I went ahead and pulled it through and set it aside.



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Back on the bottom light plug I pushed it through a little to see what was in the socket-like cover. It didn't look broken.



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The light it plugged into was made differently inside, just slightly. I was able to remove a leveraged piece of wire to get the white part of the light removed entirely.



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All of the cans got the rubdown with a scotchbrite style paint removal pad. I seem to have lost my wire wheel somewhere. The Raid can is because a couple flies kept dive bombing me. This flying insect killer puts them down NOW. It's good stuff. Oh, and I'm getting fat. Hmm.



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Painted can with nuts etc. I didn't paint the threads lol.



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Oddly the only wire connected to the bottom light was this one. The other side just wrapped around the frame, unused.

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I forgot to mention I slapped a label on each light so I knew where they went afterward.



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The passenger side routing is at least clipped in two places.



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Top passenger side light plugged here.



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The other wire was just wrapped around a support and hanging loose.



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The bottom pass side plugged here and here.




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Even the clips get polished and painted. They'll see dirt so they get bedliner.



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The workspace.



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A shot of the paint. Next I remove the bumper.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Waaaaalllll (well), I don't really remove the bumper. I put one light back on the rear so I can get to Lowes and pick up some 4x4's to put the bed on. Then I got back, removed my one light, and set about removing the bumper.

First step, observation. And that's as far as I got.

The dang thing seems to be welded to the frame!

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I wish I had a sonic screwdriver.



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That idea scrapped, I went ahead and pulled off the pigtail connections to the little junction box and set it aside with the rear lights I already removed.



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Then it was off with the steps. On the steps for the stepside there are 7 bolt points. Five that are a standard bolt/nut holding it to the bed and two that bolt to through the step portion to a support bracket. The two that go through the steps are round topped bolts that you'll need to lock some vise grip style pliers on if you want to get them off.

I started with the two round top bolts because they were out and easy to get to. Take your vise grips and lock them onto the bolt heads on the step bottoms. Then take a socket and put it on the nuts underneath the step. Then get to twisting.



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On these step bolts it goes bolt, step, washer, lockwasher, and nut. On the bedside bolts it goes bolt, washer, bed and step, lockwasher, and nut. The step bolts came off without incident after I buggared the smooth heads up enough to get them locked on.

Then came the bolts that go to the bed. They're here and here, 5 total. A middle bolt is shown in both pics because I couldn't get my camera positioned to take a bigger shot. .



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Once you get those suckers off it just pulls away.



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I put the bolts back in so I would remember the washer positions. Also to keep them from walking off. Loose nuts and bolts have been scientifically proven to morph into living creatures when left alone. Then they crawl off and hide in your other vehicles, making rattles you'll never find.



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With the steps off you're left with these large jutting brackets.



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And this pokey kick-stand that bolts to the fenders. I tried taking this off but it wouldn't turn a full twist with the bed in place. And I've heard it's hard to buy them so I'm taking it easy on this baby. She's staying put for now.



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To remove the ugly bracket though you'll need a 1/2 inch socket. And I highly recommend some PB Blaster because the nuts are welded on. I didn't use any and had two twist off inside the nuts. BAD!!!

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Really you might need your 7/16 and vise grips again first. I had to remove a bolt that went through the bed wood before removing the bracket because the nut and part of the bolt crowded the top bolt and I couldn't fit the socket onto it. Here's a pic of it waayyyy up there.



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And a shot of the top view where you'll have to lock the vise grips on.



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The in-the-way bolt removed. I don't know why I snapped one of this except that I had a heck of a time getting the vise grips on it. It kept spinning off as I'd turn it from underneath.



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The bracket has welded on nut so you don't need vise grips for that. rest of the bracket removal went without a hitch on the driver's side. To celebrate I did something easy. Remove the spare tire holder.



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The passenger side was another story. That's where I twisted off both bolts into those welded on nuts. What the heck do I do now?

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I've heard that you drill them out. It sounded simple. It isn't.

I tried to be safe. I used a punch to mark the bolt bits before drilling.



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Then I drilled. It went in but moved sort of sideways halfway through. No amount of twisting or moving would set it back straight.



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Here's what I was left with. I thought about removing the nuts but as I mentioned they're welded on. I couldn't knock them off without damaging the bracket. I'm still trying to figure out what to do.

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[jbgroby]

The 4 fender braces (kickstand things) are available for $80.00 in the LMC catalog. I held onto mine as well and will simple paint them.

[WDShaffer]

You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��

[Andice]

Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by WDShaffer

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You can gently use an angle grinder to cut the welds, then weld new nuts in place with a mig or tig welder...keeping with the spend $500 to fix it myself theme. ��

That sounds like exactly what I should do

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I need to finaygle access to a welder. I did some practice welding last year when I thought I'd need to weld some on the body panels. Stack o dimes I am not.

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Today my oldest bebe said she wanted to paint my hood emblems so I pulled those off. They take a 7/16 socket or nut driver.

Here's how they looked. Someone at one time painted them all white with a spray can.



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Open the hood and poke yer 7/16 nut driver through the hole inside. If you crane your neck you can see it with a flashlight and get it on pretty easily.



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They're on kinda tight so here's your big boy panties.



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Grunt alot in case someone is watching.

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And remember that you're loosening the only thing holding it to the hood. And that it's over your head. OVER...YOUR HEAD....Hold it up with your free hand as it comes loose or suffer the consequences.



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Then I took them to the sink to wash them off and scrub them with a scotch brite sponge (green side).



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I sat them in the window to dry.



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You may be saying, "What the heck dude! You left paintz on there!"

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Well these are aluminum and the general consensus for outdoor aluminum is that if original paint is still sticking well you should prime over it. It's not like painting steel where it's better to sand it down to shiny metal. I did get all of the spray paint off. Promise!

So after drying I primed them with two very light coats so I didn't fill in the details on it, I left them to dry and be collected by the redheaded baker of the family.



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Another shot of the stuff I use to prime everything. Except the body panels, frame, bumpers, and heavy stuff. That'll get epoxy primer if/when I get to it.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Someone PMd me and asked for pics of the spare tire carrier. I put as much detail in this as I could think of just in case some of you can't find one and want to build your own. I bet it could be done without too much trouble if you're a welder.

Here it is from the front. It was only tied to the truck with three bolts pictured. There are two more bolt holes at the top but they have welded on nuts. PLEASE PLEASE USE PB BLASTER AND LOW TORQUE TO REMOVE THEM if you're taking one off of a junkyard machine or you'll break them off in the welded nuts!



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Here's a side view with my manual peeking out from the left. Toasty!



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Looking at the bottom of it. Mine is old and used so it's got funny measurements as it goes up and down.



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Picture of it held in it's place on the truck.



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Here's a pic of it on my kitchen counter. Wife's not home haha! It's 20 inches long.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Sorry for this picture. It's my thumb but the measurement is still clear at the bottom. This is measuring the width of the carrier, 10 1/2 inches.



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A supporting rod measurement



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Middle supporting rod



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Bottom supporting rod.



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Bottom of mounting plate



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Side of the mounting plate



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Top of the mounting plate.



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View from the back showing the bent rods making the mount area.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by Andice

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Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

I tried drilling them out but they went all sideways on me even after I punched them with a punch.

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[Cayoterun]

Originally Posted by Andice

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Drill them out - including the threads - and re-tap using the next size up. Maybe even metric if needed. No grinding, no welding, low-cost.

As an interested follower of this thread. Great idea!! After many years of tinkering, it never soaked in on me to drill and tap any that twisted off. Proves your never too old to learn.

Hey, Fetch, This ol' Geezer has profited from your build, too.

Thanks, Andice,