1964 GMC 1000 Fleetside

[WDShaffer]

Originally Posted by aphaynes

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I assume some loose connections somewhere. Maybe that is what WDShaffer was referring to.

Actually, what I refer to, and what I experienced, is a broken return cancellation cam that left the stop lamp circuit open after cancellation of the turn signal...until I "jiggle the handle".

[BarryGMC]

Most of the time you will find dirty contacts or a bad wire in the switch. Here is the inside of one.

Tech

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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Most of the time you will find dirty contacts or a bad wire in the switch. Here is the inside of one.

Tech

Thanks for the pics!

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Horn does not work either. I know I need to check the relay on that as well; but with each circuit that comes from the steering column acting squirrely, I will start there and work back. Did they have turn signal cancellation in the column back then also? That does not work either if they did.

[BarryGMC]

They self cancel. You should just get a new switch, the canceling arms are broke. Now rumor has it you can find switches that are a direct replacement for the gmc. I have never seen one other than nos. but maybe there is. I don't buy repop parts other than window and door rubbers. If you look at a thread started by gmcnut not to long back we discuss the problem and the solution. Barry

[BarryGMC]

FYI it's his electrical gremlins thread. Barry

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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FYI it's his electrical gremlins thread. Barry

Thanks again Barry!

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[aphaynes]

Got my heater levers and knobs in. While putting the unit back together, I noticed the lever on the right had a post on the back and near the front. The one in the front on the main assembly frame has a place for a cable to mount to, but I only had the back three cables on the system when I disassembled it. What am I missing here???



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Got the bench out. That was an easy process.



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Set in the newer seats for a test fit. Going to have to do some sort of fab work if I make them a permanent fixture.



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I can see what Keith was saying about the tank. I could back them up another inch or so roughly, if the tank were out of the cab.



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Luckily at 5'10" and having recently lost 16 pounds, sitting in the drivers seat with the tank still in is not uncomfortable. However, if I do go with this setup, sometime way down the road when I can afford to rework that bed I have already griped about, I can move the tank out of the cab and back the seat up a little.

While all seats were out, I took a peek under the rubber floor. It was not as bad as I thought it might be, but rust is taking hold that needs to be addressed.



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[aphaynes]

I left out the fact that it made yet another trip to town. However, this time when it got back home the radiator had sprung a leak.

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Hard to say where it is leaking but the pan the radiator is sitting in was full of coolant. Looks like it may be from the front left a few inched from the bottom in the fins area...should have taken a pic.

I assume the stop leak stuff at the auto parts store aren't really worth the time?

Update: Finally got my hands on a timing light to ...well...check the timing. As the engine was starting to warm up the radiator started letting water out of the nipple that would normally have a tube connected to it going to an overflow tank. I would not expect any coolant to come out there unless already warmed up and then not constantly. Rev it up, even more blows out. So I guess I have a problem with the cap seal. Either it is not tightening enough or the gasket on it is no good.

[GMCDAC]

Hi Aphaynes, Silver Seal radiator stop leak works well on small pin holes but I never liked Bars Leak very well. Some old timers claim a raw egg white in the radiator stops small leaks even!

It sounds like your cap is shot and that could be the source of the coolant in the fins. They are designed to release pressure at a pre-set psi. Yours may be stuck in the release position.

In my '55 GMC I just run a 7 lb. cap as I don't want to cause the 59 year old non-reproduced heater core to burst! Even hauling a load it is hard to get it over 180* so it seems sufficient. The V-6 experts here will recommend a cap pressure. On race cars we would run a 22-24 lb. cap. They may use higher pressure caps yet nowadays.

DAC

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by aphaynes

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Yesterday afternoon was spent hanging out in the storm shelter. Looks like we may get to do that again later today...oh boy!

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I just got one of those installed. They're so COOL! Makes a great oil changing pit too

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The radiator hole, I had this problem and the old timers told me "Get it fixed and don't waste your money on magic". You can do what I did and buy some silver core solder and a propane torch, then fix it yourself for fun. Or you can take it to any radiator place and they'll re-core it, clean it out, and fix the leaks for about $100 - 150. Usually same day too.