1966 c20

[Hantke]

Thank you! I'll be calling my local parts stores and seeing what I can find


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[OLDTRUCKHAULER]

Hantke

Nice truck for a survivor. I've had a few like it.
My 2 cents, the brake pull can be misadjustment on
left front, the wheel cyl sticking out, or contaminated
shoes.
You said the gear ratio was a 4.56. I found mine all came
with 3.73's in the 12 bolt axle, stock. Yours may be the optional
gear ratio.
When I tired of working on the supplied carb, I took all my beverage cans
in and bought the clifford Research weber carb kit with intake and header.
Pricey, but worth it, in the long run. May take a few more cans on your
budget.
The hole in the side of your valve cover is supposed to run to the air cleaner.
I tee'd it in with the PCV line to the manifold next to the carb base, with a
grommet and 90' fitting. No leaks or pressure issues. Your engine looks like mine, a '73 250. The serial # should be down by the starter on a machined pad.
Mine is a '65 1/2t short step. I'll get a thread going on it and the '65 1502 series shortly
Sorry for long wind. Was holding my breath while reading the thread.
Mike OTH

[Hantke]

Thanks! Sounds like a nice truck! A friend of mine has a '63 shortbed stepside that I was originally going to buy until I got my truck in a trade, I like those models for the 2wd trucks. Only seen one shortbed stepside that was a 4 x 4 in person though, and it was a pretty nice truck. Anyways, hope to see your thread soon!


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[Hantke]

Ongoing debate of the day, how can I test my turn signal switch? it used to blink fine, then it was a little slower, and now the blinkers don't even come on at all. I replaced both bulbs, and I noticed nothing changed. The only things I can think of is either A) When i hooked up the front blinkers the system short circuited. B) there is a bad ground C) The switch is acting odd, I push up it clicks, i push down it clicks, but it no-longer has a definite left, neutral, right positioning, it's fairly floppy.

I am debating on taking the bed off in a couple weeks, and sanding down the rust while i'm at it (My boss said he will most likely let me take the left-over sand paper and palm sander from a job over the weekend). I figure that would be a good time to re-wire any bad connections, and make sure everything is in good shape. anything else I should check into while i'm there?

Another question, I have a very small red wire coming off the positive terminal, it feeds in behind my headlights and disappears, are these trucks positive ground? or is this another "jerry-rigged" contraption? I'm thinking about ordering the digital copy of all the owners / maintenance manuals and supplements from LMC and the wiring diagram, has anybody purchased or used those? I think it could be very helpful.

[OLDTRUCKHAULER]

Hanke,

It sounds like the turn signal switch is just flat worn out, if it feels that
sloppy. Pick up another signal relay like the one that should be plugged
into your fuse block and see if that makes a difference. Inspect the complete
wire harness run under the truck for breaks or grounds. these trucks are
bad for grounds coming off the tail lights. You may end up running a separate
wire to a frame ground from the body of the tail lights.
The small gauge red wire you're looking at should run across the radiator
support to the voltage regulator on the left inner fender (on chebbies anyway)
or the horn relay, mounted under the wiper fluid tank at the left side of the
radiator, if I recall correctly. They both have 12 volts going to them.
Just thought about the floppy feel of the lever. The screw that holds the
turn signal lever to the switch assembly may just be loose. Pull you wheel
and look at it, tighten it up, replace the screw with the next larger sheetmetal screw. I had to do that with my '65 short stepper.
My signal/tail circuit is acting the same as yours, gotta do the same steps.
If the harness is mucked up, it isn't hard to rebuild/replace.
I picked up the switch assembly from LMC for small money. It was identical
to the installed unit when I compared them.
Sorry for the long wind. Sitting here watching Adult Swim on Spike with not
much better to do at the moment.
Pick up a set of carriage bolts before you pull the bed. Not all of them
will be coming out in one piece.

Mike OTH

1965 1502 GMC ramptruck
1965 Cheby short step
1965 1000 series for parts
1985 3/4 t GMC hybrid dually
1962 willys p/u on 37's

[OLDTRUCKHAULER]

Hanke,

In the middle of his build thread, APHaynes has pics of the horn and turn
signal issues that you are into at the moment. I thought I'd read about it
earlier than tonite.

Mike OTH

[Hantke]

Thanks! I'll have to look into it this weekend, had some issues with the truck today, got a gas leak and it caught fire. Not too bad but I have to get towed home later


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[Hantke]

Well, looks like the vacuum hose on the carb was the culprit. It's all burned to ashes and the fire was located all around it. No serious damage, but o should probably try and make the spare carb work and see if anything else is having issues


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[Hantke]

So are there any other carbs that will bolt up to the 250's intake? From what I see, hear, and read, those to heaters are garbage anyways. I found a couple conversion kits, but a $300 intake requires the use of a $300 set of headers + a carb + an adapter plate. Seriously? Got to be a cheaper solution!


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[bigblockv6]

Try TransDapt for a carb adapter, I've seen 1-2bbl adapters before. That way you can upgrade to a Rochester 2GC, Stromberg WW or Carter BBD 2bbl.