1964 GMC 1000 Fleetside

[GMCDAC]

Hi Aphaynes, haven't had time for replies lately got I've a GMC project going too that is taking longer than I wanted but that's for another forum. Anyway I have been wanting to say that I really dig how you are approaching this on a tight budget with the help of your family!

The dash cluster looks great and so does the tailgate. Regular body hammers and dollies won't do on a bumper anyway so the 3 pounder is probably what you want. Since bumpers are a spring type steel a press is normally required to work dents and dings out but the heavier hammer may do the trick. Painted bumpers don't have to be as perfect as chrome so it will be much easier. and you have the luxury of being able to use a little filler if needed. On that rust pitting, you can primer and sand until filled or prime then add a little filler and sand if it is too deep for a couple coats of primer to fill. Make sure you wire brush or wire wheel all the rust out of the pitting first though.

If you were closer I would sure try to deal you out of that dealer bumper. I love those things!

Thanks for the updates!---DAC

[bigblockv6]

Myself being in the auto body industry for 30 plus years I would heat the surface start out with a heavy hammer and finish with a hammer and dolly.

[GMCDAC]

Originally Posted by bigblockv6

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Myself being in the auto body industry for 30 plus years I would heat the surface start out with a heavy hammer and finish with a hammer and dolly.

Thanks for chiming in BBV6, I wasn't sure if I should recommend heat as I didn't know if the bumper would lose strength. We had a "bumper and paint" shop here locally at one time and they would send bumpers to Denver to get "pressed" straight for repairs, so when I needed to do that once the press at work did to a reasonable job for a crude repair. It was a pain setting it up in the positions and finding a few odd shaped pieces of iron to use for "dies" though.

I have about 30 plus DAYS of "seat of the pants" auto body experience!--LOL!!

DAC

[bigblockv6]

Many years ago I used just a typical propane torch to straighten out a dent on my 68's rear Barden Bumper and it came out great, a little heat won't hurt so I'm not saying get it glowing cherry red.

[aphaynes]

Thanks DAC and BBV6. So a little heat but not to glowing, 3lb hammer, and possible hammer and dolly to finish....or possibly press.

What is a good way to brace the back side when using the 3lb hammer so that the bump does not become a dent?

What type/style hammer and dolly should I get if I need it?

Is a Benzomatic torch enough heat or is something bigger/hotter needed?

[aphaynes]

BBV6 - I'm trying to stay focused on the bumper, but if you look at the pictures in the beginning of this thread, you will see that the driver's side has several bondo areas. The problem is the larger sections of bondo are cracking and some is popping off. I have two large circles that have popped off now; one on the driver door and one on the rear fender. The metal underneath looks good, just creased on the door and dented on the fender. The spots that popped off were about 1/8 inch thick in bondo. So my question is what is the best way to remove all of the old bondo? Sanding or some other method? I would like to see what all has been covered.

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[WDShaffer]

I will be chroming my bumpers. I took the front to a chrome shop for straightening, time & $ well spent. I will take it back later for actual chrome application. But it is straight and ready for me when the time comes.

If you haven't done so, use a sand blaster to clean or the pitted areas. Since you are painting, use a coarse (36-grit) sander to evenly scuff out the pits-don't gouge with the edge. Then use body filler to restore the shape. Alternatively, you could build the area up with a TIG welder, metal finish, and powder coat. Either way, that will assure a long-lasting repair.

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by WDShaffer

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I will be chroming my bumpers. I took the front to a chrome shop for straightening, time & $ well spent. I will take it back later for actual chrome application. But it is straight and ready for me when the time comes.

If you haven't done so, use a sand blaster to clean or the pitted areas. Since you are painting, use a coarse (36-grit) sander to evenly scuff out the pits-don't gouge with the edge. Then use body filler to restore the shape. Alternatively, you could build the area up with a TIG welder, metal finish, and powder coat. Either way, that will assure a long-lasting repair.

Due to tight budget, if you don't mind me asking, what did the straightening cost you?

[GMCNUT]

Originally Posted by aphaynes

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Due to tight budget, if you don't mind me asking, what did the straightening cost you?

So, at $140.00 each, why wouldn't either of you simply buy new front bumpers? Even if you wanted White, you could paint a reproduction bumper and be miles ahead on the money....

Its true that the originals are heavier, but they had to be because people rammed them into other cars, stumps, etc - not the way we baby our rides today driving on the weekend or even driving daily - we are MUCH more careful....so I cannot see a value in paying 400 to 700 for replating an original unless you are going 100 point full show

[aphaynes]

Oh no! I would not be able to pay that kind of money for replating. I was just curious what they would charge to take out these bumps I did not notice originally...mainly due to lack of having a torch or special hammers and dollies. If it ain't cheap then it won't happen.

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I'll do the best I can with the advice given.

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After all, this is a daily driver, not a show truck.