1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[Cayoterun]

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

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It's Voodoo! I'm sure of it. hexed bolts!

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I don't remember who, but someone mentioned that they're offset. Way over engineered engine, right? I love that V6.






Thanks Coyote! Hope you and the family are doing well. The rain is great, ain't it?

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Hi Bozz! Thanks for reading my mess here. I grew up watching Dukes of Hazzard reruns so your screen name always makes me think "Ahhh, Jefferson DAVIS Hawg, at your service!"
Good memories

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Fun fact: He was actually really skinny. They used pillows to puff him up!



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You might get a better response on your question in the Motors section if no one here knows (I don't for sure). Some guys dont read the build threads so they wont see this one. As the thread-resident monkey with a wrench though I dont think theyre interchangable. Other things are though. The innards changed a little between D and E models. Jolly can prolly tell you more about the changes.




Great idea! Tommy

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Bozz, I just checked Rockauto and they're different numbers. I'd still ask in the engines forum to be sure though. Good luck!



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Pepsi: If you haven't already figured it out, after you get the flywheel muscled up in the hole, you can slip it on the crankshaft flange and turn it until the holes all line up. Do you need to be warned? That dude is heavy, so don't let it slip off the flange until you get a bolt started!!

Yes, Sir!!! The rain we have received is much appreciated, so with no cattle, we're letting the weeds grow, hoping to catch snow if we get any this winter.
We're all well up here. We'll be out at Black Mesa helping the Cimarron Heritage Center volunteers stuff grub in all those wild OKC Star-Gazers that stay up all night staring at the sky next week. Lot's of fun.-----and work.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by Cayoterun

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Pepsi: If you haven't already figured it out, after you get the flywheel muscled up in the hole, you can slip it on the crankshaft flange and turn it until the holes all line up. Do you need to be warned? That dude is heavy, so don't let it slip off the flange until you get a bolt started!!

I know, I think they should have made it with it's own little elevator

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I got it mashed up there, slipped on the flange, and started spinning. Then the dang thing fell off and I *thought* broke my ring finger. It's just sprained though thank goodness. It's sore as heck but it'll heal. One things for sure you gotta pay attention with this puppy!

Originally Posted by Cayoterun

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Yes, Sir!!! The rain we have received is much appreciated, so with no cattle, we're letting the weeds grow, hoping to catch snow if we get any this winter.
We're all well up here. We'll be out at Black Mesa helping the Cimarron Heritage Center volunteers stuff grub in all those wild OKC Star-Gazers that stay up all night staring at the sky next week. Lot's of fun.-----and work.

Haha that sounds like a great time. You guys are good hearted people! Tell the wife I said "Hi"!




I got out there today and got dirty. I always start with piddly stuff. I painted my shift boot ring with bedliner, which I want to put all over the floorboards of my truck where the rubber mat used to be. I think I'll follow it with sound deadener and then some carpet or another mat. I haven't decided. I'm not really fond of carpet in these old trucks though, so probably a mat again.

Anyway...Back on topic...Shift boot ring:



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I got the shifter out and pulled out the cotter pin holding it together. The pin broke, so it'll get replaced. (Autozone, $6.99 for a set)



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After pulling the pin out the shifter just falls apart pretty easily. This is a good job for your little helpers.



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Exploded view

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[BarryGMC]

Keep it up Pepsi. I love your enthusiasm. Barry

[FetchMeAPepsi]

All the smaller bits, washers, etc. and bracket takes a long bath in the carb cleaner bucket.



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Then it was on to the hump. I pulled out the rubber liner out of it's track. It was nasty. I'll need some new rubber. Then I hit it with a 60 grit mini flap disk (1 inch). It took about two hours to get it down to bare metal.



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When I got to the driver's side corner I discovered some pitting. Cecilia started scratching her head - it could mean dandruff! It didn't go too deep though so I sanded it down smooth. Then I sprayed the whole thing with Ospho and let it sit.



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While it dried and converted any microscopic rust I sprayed down the handle. it's all shiny and awesome now.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I got tied to the wire wheel for a while...



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(If you read this earlier, I'm sorry. I got ahead of myself. This is teardown, not rebuild!

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)

So obviously I took off the front cover and wire wheeled it above. Here's it coming off, along with the gasket. The gasket is probably very thin and paperlike if it's been on a while. You might have to dig it off with a razor or screwdriver.




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I turned the transmission over and pulled off the side cover. It takes four bolts, each 1/2 inch. When they're out it just lifts away. The second pic shows me that I put the forks in wrong when I rebuilt it. Oops. Gotta change it tomorrow.

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I put the bolts back in the cover after I set it aside so I didn't lose them or try to put them in some other spot.



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Now I moved to the nut on the front. I had a VERY tough time with this. Then I discovered it is LEFT threaded. Yep. Righty-tighty lefty-loosey doesn't apply to this little backward fella.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I moved to the tail section then, pulling out all five bolts. They're 9/16 inch.



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For the next part make sure you're over a stable surface like a table. Crap will go everywhere!

Pull the case apart. most people never do this because its hard to get back together. But to rebuild your muncie sm 318 you need to do this to get to the rear bearings. and the needlebearings, which you're about to meet.



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Keep pulling....And Tada! Needle bearings all over the shaft!



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Some also get scattered around inside. Stick a pencil magnet or your finger in there to get them out. Set the tail section aside for now.



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Then slide the outer ring off of what's left inside the transmission. This is your 1st and reverse gear. Notice how tiny the gear teeth are? After this I really don't think I'll ever do a burnout from a red light ever again. These things are tiny!



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Finally slide the big pepsi-can looking thing out the back. This is second and third gear.



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Put them back together and set them somewhere safe.



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Now run a magnet (the silver triangle looking thing here) around inside again. I found more needle bearings!



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Time to pound on something again. ARR ARR ARR!



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Grab a socket, this one is 9/16 if I remember right. Add some extensions.



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Poke it through the back where the tailshaft used to be. Poke it into the spot where the needlebearings were.



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Now ring it with a hammer. Just the weight of the hammer, don't knock it into next week.



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The front shaft (input shaft) will pop right out in your hand.



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That's it for the case here. Set it aside somewhere.



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Needle bearing collection. I found one more fat one (fat ones go on the front) stuck to the shaft.



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Um...If you didn't already, take the washers off the TAIL shaft now. We set it aside already, remember?

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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Keep it up Pepsi. I love your enthusiasm. Barry

Without your help I would never have got this far. Thanks Barry!

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

While we have the tailshaft on the bench grab two screwdrivers and push apart the big ring by the base of the shaft. You can hold one side still with one flathead screwdriver, then push the other side away and forward on the shaft.



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Once it's hooked out of the little groove it's in you can pry the shaft out.



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This is a crazy long shaft.



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For the next part I put it in a vise. The part that comes off next is just held on with friction. Bang it gently with a hammer going around and around the shaft to get it loose.



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This part here is TOUGH

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If you have a spring tool use it here and save yourself some stress. It took me forever to wedge two screwdrivers, one sideways and one up and down, against this clamp.



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Then I worked it up enough on one side that I could slip a third screwdriver under it.



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If you ever get it out of the groove you can bang it gently with a hammer to get it up the shaft. But...



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Put your hand over it when you get to the end or it'll PING! off into the sunset.




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Now bang the bearing with a hammer. Go side to side or it'll get stuck.



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Old and new.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

That bearing is called a "race". (thanks Raycow for the terminology) Pound it down onto the shaft now.



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Then pound on the evil snap ring.



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Finally pound on this spinny thing.



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It needs to float 1" above the race.



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Thats it for the tail shaft. Now grab the tail case. Im sure theres a better way to do this, but I just stuck a crowbar in the end of it and pried on the seal back there. it popped right out.



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Old and new



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Clean out the hole a bit



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This part here is red RTV silicone. You should use GREY silicone instead, but I dont have any so this is what she got. Red is for high temp areas. Grey is for high torque areas.



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Set the new gasket in it's new home then put the old gasket on top of it.



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This protects the new gasket while you pound it with a hammer to drive it home.



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Clean up the extra silicone.



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Flip the case over and scratch or scrape off the gasket. I had to scrape mine off. If I didnt know it was there I wouldnt have thought to look. it was very thin and worn down.



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