1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

You'll also have alot of gaskets in the kit but don't worry about them just yet.

Keep putting parts in the dip and don't forget to save a big piece to put in on top of the float because....wait for it....











It floats.

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And keep toweling them off as they come out. Once they're all dipped, it's time to start the rebuild.

Screw this screw in. It's the one with the little pin coming out of the top.




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Then put this screw and cover in. Remember that there's a little tiny BB under it. Don't forget that!




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Then put the vacuum fitting back on. There is no washer or anything for it.




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Then put the pin back in the float and drop it back in.



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Don't forget your new keeper pin!



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Use your screwdriver to gently work it back up under the lip that holds it in place.



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Then put your little rocket ship piece (I think it's called a needle valve) back in and use the included keeper wire to hold it to the float again.




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Bend the end of it around with the screwdriver to make sure it stays put.




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Now you can install the fancy new fuel fitting. I later found out this fitting didn't fit my gas line and had to revert to the old fitting. Never throw anything away until you finish!




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The float shouldn't need adjusting, but it's a good idea to do so anyway. Flip it over and make sure that with the float hanging upside down (dangling) that it closes the little rocket ship into your new fuel fitting. If it doesn't close it off then you need to bend the arm on the float so that it does.


Flip the main body over now and find a gasket that looks like it fits.




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Then get your screws to bolt "Bob" back on. Two fat screws go in the middle.




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Two thinner screws go on the outside.





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Put your jet covers back on, remember your new shiny copper gaskets!




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Grab the "air horn" (top of the carb) and your fuel piston pump. Poke one through the other.



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Pop a cotter pin through it.




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Put the stupid vacuum pump piston that I broke and JB Welded in. That I hate. Stupid part. Grr.




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Put these pins back in. Remember that there are two.




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Fnd our larger BB and drop it in the fuel pump piston hole.




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Drop the spring back in. Boioioingggg!




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Go through your gaskets and find one that fits.




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Get your air horn again and pull the cardboard piece off of the fuel piston.




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Fit the gasket over the pistons.




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Put the air horn back on the main body. Try to keep the gasket lined up. If you can rock it forward and backward like a hobby horse then it's likely hanging up on those needles we put in. You should be able to wiggle it gently and get it to seat properly.




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Then start putting your screws back in the air horn. I like to put them all in then tighten them like you do a wheel, going from one side to the other so they seat as flat as possible. Does it matter? Probably not.

I tighten them just enough to start really pinching the gasket tight.

The first screw we do has that accelerator cable tie-down. Don't forget it like I did. That's why it isn't shown in the second pic. Whoops!



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For this one make sure the little brass plate is pointing up so the next owner isn't swearing at you

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Your air horn is now attached! Let's do the spaghetti.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Grab your wrench looking piece of linkage and hook the wrench portion on the bottom of the carb.




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Then hook the little spring on the back up and run the screw through it. Don't tighten it.




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Here's a side view so you can see. You need to make sure the wrench shaped linkage is hanging on the screw you just ran in, not butted up to the carb. THEN start screwing it down. It should move freely once you get it screwed down.




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Put the link that looks like an "S" through the bottom part




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Then the top.




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And cotter key them both.




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Now find a gasket to fit the bottom of "the bottom plate". This one obviously belongs in an art bucket at a pre-school. It doesn't fit. I have to say that for legal reasons so you don't try to use it and cause a thermo-nuclear reaction in your intake manifold.




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

This one looks better.




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The block goes on top of that gasket.




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Then another gasket to seal it to the intake manifold.




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Now flip it back to where you can see the mixture screws pictured below. There are two, one on each side of the float bowl.


Put your screwdriver in one of them and hold it very loosely. This is so that you can tell when it gets lightly seated (snug, not tight!). Now turn it clockwise and COUNT the turns, quarter turns, or half turns etc. as you tighten them. REMEMBER THIS NUMBER. Write it down if you need to.

(This picture was taken after remounting b/c I forgot to reset them myself while it was off)


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Once they're very lightly snug you now need to back them out again to set them. I was talking to an old timer about it and he said this:


Gently seat the Idle Mixture Screws again like you did before (tighten them till they're just barely seated). Now unscrew them two full turns. Start the engine and make sure the choke is wide open. Turn each screw in 1/2 turn at a time until the engine rpm starts to drop. Then back them both out equally until you reach the highest rpms possible. LEAVE THEM THERE.

Idle Screw: Now just adjust the idle screw (by the spaghetti near the choke cable) till it's where you want the RPMs to be. That's it. Purrs like a kitten.


I'd trade the entire internet for a handful of old timers with great stories.




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That is how they should be set for life. Forget they exist now. Unless it runs like crap afterward, then go back to what they were and see if that fixes it. You remember what they were, right? You wrote it down.
I just know you did.




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At this point we can move back to the engine bay. The end is in sight!
Remove the rag you put in the intake now. Be sure to jerk it straight up so as not to knock something off of your dirty engine into the intake.




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Then place your first gasket, your block (if you have one), and your second gasket (again, if you had a block) on the bolts and line them up.




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Set the carb down on it's new perch.




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I forgot to dip my nuts and lock washers so I did that now. 10 mins in the drink!




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Then it's on the carb mounts. Again I like to tighten them opposite, like a wheel. I tighten them good and snug again. Not tight, just snug enough to pinch the gasket.




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Then attach the throttle cable to the top and tighten the screw.




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Attach the rear clamp and tighten. Remember it has that little nut on the underside so don't unscrew it much.




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Connect the large spring to the linkage shown.




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Hook up the fuel line.




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And finally fire it up and see if it runs. It has zero gas in the float bowl so remember that it might not start quickly the first time.
After you get it to fire up it should start easily after that.


If it runs put the air cleaner back on it. My photographer had a problem with the loud motor running so it's a little off center lol.




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A little note about the air cleaner. I had intended to clean it as well but I ran out of weekend and painkillers so it got pushed back to next weekend. Sorry about that

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If all went well the last step is to take the kiddos and the ugly mutt for a spin around the block!




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Congrats, you just rebuilt a carburetor!


If you noticed something I did and shouldn't have done, or missed doing entirely, speak up! This was my first carb rebuild. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

My only issues after mounting were gas coming out of the carb piston hole and a rough idle, both of which were fixed by adjusting the float then adjusting fuel mixture screws as described earlier. My mixture screws were an entire revolution off.

[BarryGMC]

Good job. Carbs are not to hard. Old rig people should all learn about the carbs in their rigs it saves a lot of trouble. BTW get an extra fuel pump and carb kit, and if you can find one a float. The floats sometimes crack after 50 years. Put this in your goodie box so when your on the sunday drive you can deal with the problems that can occur. Barry C.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I thought about buying another 1 since they were so cheap. i should do that before they just stop selling them altogether i guess. good tip!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Had a couple of spare keys made today.


The kid at Ace Hardware couldn't figure out which blank to use. Only one key on the rack looked like mine so I pointed at that one and said, "Maybe that one?"
He gave me that "I know what I'm doing" look and kept looking through the blanks.

He then grabbed a key from some truck in the 80's or late 70's and said, "Lets try this."
It looked nothing like my key. Did it work?
Nope.

So being an intelligent man of many months of keymaking experience and whatever knowledge he gleaned from his day job as a high school student, he proceeded to pull out his IPhone and said, "Siri, what is the key blank for a 1962 GMC K1000?"




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Siri told him "B10".

He hung up on her (or ended her, whatever) and grabbed the key blank I had originally pointed to and said, "Well, I guess this is it."




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Worked perfectly.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Rear Stepside Fender Removal


This was pretty straightforward. I talked to a guy that supposedly knew "everything" about old trucks (he was probably 25 yrs old lol) and he swore that the bolts were welded in after being run into nuts that were welded to the frame.


Doesn't look welded:



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Being of the hard-headed tight-wadded Scottish variety I grabbed an oversized Phillips and gave it a quick spin. It complied after just a little effort. Harumph! Turns out they're just fancy Phillips head screws with regular washers on the back side, followed by a lock washer, and finally a regular run of the mill nut. Oh, and rust. LOTS of rust.


Since I have to de-dent them and paint them anyway I decided to remove them. Here's a breakdown of the entire process start to finish.



Tools you will need:

• About 12 hours of time, give or take an hour. Better allow a whole weekend.
• Two hands
• Can of PB Blaster
• Ratchet
• One deep well 1/2 socket
• One shallow well 1/2 socket
• One standard hammer
• One pair of vice grips
• One more person if you're lucky (not required)
• A beautiful wife to bring you drinks when it's 108 degrees outside
• and Gloves if you're a leetle girly man

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We're going to PUMP you UP!!!


First off, these are kinda heavy and the rusted bolts can be daunting, but honestly I've got a bad back, a busted hip, and I weigh a buck 75 after a big meal so if I can get these off so can you. I promise.
Just glom on to it and get started!


First you get it through your thick head that you're not going to save all of these precious, fantastically patina'd old bolts. I really wanted to. I so wanted to. I spent nights dreaming about a perfect period specific phillips head bed bolts. I even bought

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for EIGHTY hard earned bux in order to get them out.
However reality has a way of kicking you in the face when you want something too much.





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Note the beautifully rounded out hole.

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If I had it to do again and owned the tools I'd have simply cut all of the bolts off and been done with it inside of an hour. Instead I'm a poor boy with few tools and even less brains. So here's how I did it.


Beginning the night before you should take your can of PB Blaster (or similar spray) and really hose each bolt down well on both sides of the bolt. There are 18 bolts for each fender if you include the bumper to fender bolts. Hit them all really well.




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Be sure to spray both sides of the places where the bumper bolts to the fender too. Those suckers sit in sand, rain, snow, salt, etc. and probably will bust in two when you put any torque on them if you're lucky. If not prepare to lose some skin.




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Once that's done take your hammer and give six or seven light taps (just the hammer's weight really) on each bolt to set up some fluid movement. Do this before 8pm so you don't make the neighbors mad. No sense in turning them off to your truck before you've had a chance to get them hooked on the beauty of it.



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Then get a good night's sleep. You'll need it.



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The next morning go out there and photograph your baby because she's about to lose her knickers.

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Ok, on to the work!


Get your tools laid out beside you within reach. Nothing like needing a socket on the nut only to find that it's 30 ft away and if you move from your current position it'll cause the entire truck to fall over on it's side and end space-time as we know it.



Next take your handy dandy human eating vice grips and clamp them on to the phillips head bolt as hard as you can get them to stick. You'll have to repeat this step several times as they come loose while you're turning the opposing nut.



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If you're lucky enough to have a buddy or one of your offspring helping you, just have them hold the vice grips still for you while you turn the nut on the other side. They can also re-attach them if they come off (if your helper is strong enough. You gotta clamp them down HARD). If you're doing this by yourself you can grab a cinder block and put it in front of the grips so they can't spin very much. It works ok. Sometimes it moves and you scrape a half acre of hide off of your pinkie.




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Then put your trusty socket on the other side and get with it.







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Remember to PUSH or PULL the socket based on what is on the other side of your hand. Don't push if a sharp piece of metal is facing your hand. And don't pull if you're pulling towards a dangerous piece of metal either. Safety keeps you turning wrenches.



I'm using impact wrench sockets because I hate when sockets break off in my hand and I still have work to do. Of course with these being extremely hard, harder than your rusty bolts, you'll end up making some two fisted bolts.




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It happens.

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Oh, and the little struts don't have washers on them. Only lock nuts.





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Also, I just about never found the screw head for this little sucker. I thought it went into the frame somewhere but it turned out to be another in-the-bed bolt buried under a bunch of walnut husks, dirt, and plywood that the PO (previous owner) had used to cover the rotted bed wood. Tada! (Pic is upside down - sorry for my ugly hand)




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These bumper to fender screw/bolts cost me the most skin. The first one sheared off after the second grunt, the second one on the fifth. Blood and water flowed!




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For the other side I actually had to take a bastard file and file it down. Then I broke it off and pulled it through the hole from the back side with my cheap vice grips. Didn't damage any of the body, but the bumper got a few more scrapes on it. Sadsauce.




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Note this bolt (pictured below) on the bottom side of the fender is backwards to the others. The nut is on the inside (facing the differential) instead of facing the fenderwell.





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Because of these lower ones being backwards, you might have to lie down in the dirt and put the flesh eating vice grips on the inside of the fender. This makes them happy because when they break loose and fall they aim for your eyeballs.






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If you take them off from the rear of the fender to the front of the fender you might find yourself lying on your back turning on that last bolt while you hold the fender up with a foot and pray it doesn't fall on your head. Fun!




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And if everything went well you'll be rewarded with a bolt/nut roundup like this one...(pictured in order of removal)




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...and possibly a glimpse at 50 year old paint that has gone untouched since it was first sprayed on by some 20 year old kid named Buddy. Man, there's nothing like that blue/white two toned color on these classic trucks!




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And as for those cheap vice grips (that weren't cheap to me!), well they quit about halfway through. Even this little shaved bit off the corner made a profound difference in how well they grabbed the bolt heads.




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All in all I came out of it with the knowledge that you pay twice for cheap tools (priceless), 12 hours of my life gone along with about 8 inches of skin and a pair of cheap vice grips. Speaking of which, why do they create vice grips and infuse in them a thirst for human flesh? Not funny, Stanley, Craftsman, et al. Not funny at all!