1966 c20

[Hantke]

Sorry I haven't been updating, but for some reason the Tapatalk app won't load this forum, and my iPhone won't open it either! (unfortunately all my pics are on the iPhone, so ill have to sort that out late).

So, the headlights! i spent about an hour and a half drinking with my volt meter testing the headlight wires every foot to a few inches from start to finish, didn't find anything. Finally looked closer at the headlight (like i should have in the firs place) and found that it was broken and full of water. replaced both lights with two new ones, and, LET THERE BE LIGHT! not a single issue in the darn thing! now unfortunately my volt meter crapped out on me, so I'm hoping the tail light on the same side is the same issue (a new tail light bulb is only like $3.50 anyways). my right rear blinker works, but some idiot cut the wires on the front blinker between the fire wall and the hood, no left blinker at all.

I'm still having the startup issue though. I bought a carb rebuild kit thinking i would rebuild it (it turned out to be a general rebuild kit, so a lot of spare parts and i was lost!) so about half way through i decided I would just brake clean parts of it, replace the jet and needle, then replace the fuel filter and gaskets and i would just put it back together. Now it leaks gas through the gasket and it STILL doesn't start!!! when i get some time (either in the morning tomorrow, thursday, or some time friday) I will take the carb back off, and (depending on how motivated i'm feeling) either take it apart again and carb dip it (costs money that i don't have) or just trouble shoot it as much as i can.

things i know so far:
1. when fuel line is put in a bottle and the starter is turned over it will squirt fuel into the bottle
2. fule filter is clean
3. the carb will be getting an air filter soon
4. Motorcycle carbs are NOT, i repeat, NOT the same as these carbs!
5. i changed the bottom of the float to the float bowl measurement from 1 7/8" to 1 3/4" as the instructions said to.
6. if i dump even a little gas into the carb it starts up fine with no issues
7. I will be removing the choke line and just adjusting it by hand until the truck is warm, then I can go and drive somewhere. (choke cable keeps binding)
8. I wouldn't mind (at all) if i could just put a small edelbrock or holley carb that i understand how to use on here, but this one is kind of fun to tinker with (though i would appreciate being able to afford to think more)

any tips on carb work? its a rochester monojet "B" series (B for basic?? lol) i found some videos on youtube, but the guys on there seem to have some bad habits.

[Hantke]

Also, are those hinged gizmos by my feet a cold / fresh air vent for the cab?

[GMCDAC]

Originally Posted by Hantke

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Sorry I haven't been updating, but for some reason the Tapatalk app won't load this forum, and my iPhone won't open it either! (unfortunately all my pics are on the iPhone, so ill have to sort that out late).

So, the headlights! i spent about an hour and a half drinking with my volt meter testing the headlight wires every foot to a few inches from start to finish, didn't find anything. Finally looked closer at the headlight (like i should have in the firs place) and found that it was broken and full of water. replaced both lights with two new ones, and, LET THERE BE LIGHT! not a single issue in the darn thing! now unfortunately my volt meter crapped out on me, so I'm hoping the tail light on the same side is the same issue (a new tail light bulb is only like $3.50 anyways). my right rear blinker works, but some idiot cut the wires on the front blinker between the fire wall and the hood, no left blinker at all.

I'm still having the startup issue though. I bought a carb rebuild kit thinking i would rebuild it (it turned out to be a general rebuild kit, so a lot of spare parts and i was lost!) so about half way through i decided I would just brake clean parts of it, replace the jet and needle, then replace the fuel filter and gaskets and i would just put it back together. Now it leaks gas through the gasket and it STILL doesn't start!!! when i get some time (either in the morning tomorrow, thursday, or some time friday) I will take the carb back off, and (depending on how motivated i'm feeling) either take it apart again and carb dip it (costs money that i don't have) or just trouble shoot it as much as i can.

things i know so far:
1. when fuel line is put in a bottle and the starter is turned over it will squirt fuel into the bottle
2. fule filter is clean
3. the carb will be getting an air filter soon
4. Motorcycle carbs are NOT, i repeat, NOT the same as these carbs!
5. i changed the bottom of the float to the float bowl measurement from 1 7/8" to 1 3/4" as the instructions said to.
6. if i dump even a little gas into the carb it starts up fine with no issues
7. I will be removing the choke line and just adjusting it by hand until the truck is warm, then I can go and drive somewhere. (choke cable keeps binding)
8. I wouldn't mind (at all) if i could just put a small edelbrock or holley carb that i understand how to use on here, but this one is kind of fun to tinker with (though i would appreciate being able to afford to think more)

any tips on carb work? its a rochester monojet "B" series (B for basic?? lol) i found some videos on youtube, but the guys on there seem to have some bad habits.

Originally Posted by Hantke

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Also, are those hinged gizmos by my feet a cold / fresh air vent for the cab?

Yeah the B is pretty basic, but like all old carbs a good bath in carb cleaner should be the first order of business. Since you said gas is leaking around the gasket, I am assuming the gasket between the top plate/air horn and the float bowl body. That means the fuel bowl is overfilling and normally stuck or damaged needle and seat or binding floats cause that. Too high of a float level can too but you said that you went with the lower measurement.

The model B has two connected floats and they must be parallel or flat with each other and must not rub on the carb body anywhere through up and down travel. Like I said in my earlier post your model B may need to have a throttle cable as well as the choke cable to keep the idle high enough to run while the engine is warming up. That is why I built a Rochester model M, choke cable is all that was needed.

Many of these V-6 folks here have knowledge of other 1 BBL carbs, but I'm not qualified to say. Most seem to do a 2 BBL.

Pics of my Model B carbs and of the Model M that I put on my 230.

Oh yeah those hinged gizmos are fresh air vents.

DAC

[Hantke]

Now that's a pretty engine! I have a second carb as well that in tempted to test, both need a rebuild and a carb dip but they are waiting on my broke college kid budget for it! Lol I'd trade em both for a working replacement to save the hassle of doing it myself. Thanks for the tip on the vents, one was kicked and is broken, but I'll fix that when I get there. I still haven't got the ash tray out yet! But I'll get there. Maybe tomorrow morning I'll get the chance to go and rebuild it properly. Or there is a guy near me that rebuilds them for $100 + materials, if I can't do it right I think I'll ask if he will take the other carb in trade for rebuilding mine.
I've got some serious clean up to do! Random stuff sticking out of the engine is throwing me for a loop right now.


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[Hantke]

Even your valve cover doesn't have a random hole in it plugged with rubber. I also noticed the dip stick says fill - add, but even higher up there is a big E on it. I'd like to pull the valve cover and paint it so something looks pretty haha.


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[GMCDAC]

Originally Posted by Hantke

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Even your valve cover doesn't have a random hole in it plugged with rubber. I also noticed the dip stick says fill - add, but even higher up there is a big E on it. I'd like to pull the valve cover and paint it so something looks pretty haha.


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I think the random hole is the oil fill, same spot as my screw-in one! College kid!---I have one graduated and another that will be next spring. That's cool, not many of them interested in old trucks. Between the full and add lines is all you need to be concerned with on the dipstick.

The ash tray deal is kinda funny to me. My wife bought a non-running '64 Chevy pickup a couple years ago to help out the owner. 300 bucks. Glitch was they told her it was a GMC. I went to pull it home and it was a Chevy. Anyway while I was parting it out, the ash tray would not open. I finally just pried it and a pair of fingernail clippers had wedged into it just right to hold it firmly closed!

Just to give you a little incentive on cleaning up the engine, here's a pic of my 230 the day I got it and cleaning and painting the engine cost me less than 30 bucks. That was only because when I scraped the grime and rust out of the freeze plugs I hit water! They were rusted out.

DAC

[Hantke]

Originally Posted by GMCDAC

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I think the random hole is the oil fill, same spot as my screw-in one! College kid!---I have one graduated and another that will be next spring. That's cool, not many of them interested in old trucks. Between the full and add lines is all you need to be concerned with on the dipstick.

The ash tray deal is kinda funny to me. My wife bought a non-running '64 Chevy pickup a couple years ago to help out the owner. 300 bucks. Glitch was they told her it was a GMC. I went to pull it home and it was a Chevy. Anyway while I was parting it out, the ash tray would not open. I finally just pried it and a pair of fingernail clippers had wedged into it just right to hold it firmly closed!

Just to give you a little incentive on cleaning up the engine, here's a pic of my 230 the day I got it and cleaning and painting the engine cost me less than 30 bucks. That was only because when I scraped the grime and rust out of the freeze plugs I hit water! They were rusted out.

DAC

I thought the top of the valve cover where it said OIL was the fill, if you look closely between the fuel line and vacuum hose you can see it, it looks like a screw through a rubber hose then was jammed in the side of the valve cover!



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top down view:



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So i was going to show you a better picture, but photo bucket decided it wasn't going to work for me (go figure) so i can't upload any new pictures because they don't "click" with photo bucket.

I noticed the inside of the oil cap was milky (actually, it looked like a kid blew his nose into it) and was concerned, so i pulled the dipstick (which ironically took the entire tube with it) and the oil had a slight smell of gas to it (very slight, maybe nonexistent and i just thought that because I was standing next to a gas tank).

So my goals for tomorrow (before class)
bring pressure washer with me so I can wash the truck off (finally)
re-attempt carb rebuild. Probably dis-assemble the carb then put it in the carb dip. I'll come back to it tomorrow morning.
put the other carb on the truck and see if it runs smoothly (if so, I can back it out of the shop and wash it, if not, i will wash it tomorrow).

and yes, i'm 20, 21 in 6 months, I guess that makes me a young-un doesn't it? I love these trucks though, coolest body styles of any truck is the 1960-1966 Chevy / GMC pickups, plus no emissions laws anywhere I go, no legal limits on motor swaps (apparently they have laws regarding engine swaps in newer vehicles in oregon) makes these trucks the perfect puttsing around vehicle for me, and hopefully it will be a good reliable work truck / cruiser for me pretty soon.

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[GMCDAC]

Ok sorry to insult you since it says "OIL" on it!---LOL! I did miss that protruding out of the side of the valve cover obviously. Neither of my I-6's have that, so I couldn't tell you if some did or not.

Yeah 20 darn-near makes you a grand-young-un to me! I prefer driving older trucks too, my newest is a 1991 GMC but I only use it when the wind chills are around zero or lower, or over 90* or so as the A/C works good!

Keep us posted---DAC

[Hantke]

Originally Posted by GMCDAC

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Ok sorry to insult you since it says "OIL" on it!---LOL! I did miss that protruding out of the side of the valve cover obviously. Neither of my I-6's have that, so I couldn't tell you if some did or not.

Yeah 20 darn-near makes you a grand-young-un to me! I prefer driving older trucks too, my newest is a 1991 GMC but I only use it when the wind chills are around zero or lower, or over 90* or so as the A/C works good!

Keep us posted---DAC

Well, being productive in class right now, I got a bucket of carb dip from a very nice person this morning, so tomorrow I will roll it out the door and pressure wash it nice and clean! then i really hope it will start up right finally!

ever use that royal purple oil treatment? its supposed to help with low compression and high mileage engines. I'm thinking about giving it a shot when I replace the oil.

I really have no idea why that hole is there, but I would like either a new valve cover or a better plug, I've been able to pull just about every part right off the block. I have NO idea how it made it this far! but I'm determined to make it last for another infinite amount of years.

[bigblockv6]

The rubber push on "OIL" cap was introduced in the early 70's mainly around 1973 depending on which GM division it was. GMC introduced the rubber cap in 1973 on the all their gas V6 engines. Looking at the pic of the 250 inline six it appears also to have the newer style valve cover as well so that could put it as a 1973-74, possibly someone may have just changed the valve cover but definitely not a 1975 on up as those engines had an integral cylinder head and intake manifold.