Newbe 65 GMC

[62Burb]

According to the history I have seen, starting with '63 they switched to rear leafs. The '62 I had long ago had coils, my current '63 has leafs.

[BillT]

I've always known it to be that the GMC's got Rear Leafs and the Chevy's got Rear Coils, although I believe you could have ordered Coils if you preferred it.

[Ccsmith]

Hey there thanks for the respones. Right after i got the truck i blew my ACL so it has been on the back burner. Now that im moving around better i get back to working on him. Did new plugs, wires, coil, points, condenser, fuel pump and rebuilt carb. Poured atf oil on pistons for a few days and let soak. Hooked up new battery and he fired right up AFTER 27 years. Excited. My radiator is shot so getting a néw aluminum one from champion radiator out of cali for $184. Had to hook up a tire valve to upper rad hose and blow out gunk because it would not take any water. A bunch of old rusty flakes came out and after about 30 gallons of water flushed though it is clear.

Next i pulled the bed off and cleaned the rear frame and axle to get ready to put in under bed tank from LMC.

Has anyone used POR15? Thinking using that while the bed is off to protect it all.

[Ccsmith]

Here some more pics right after i got him

[Ccsmith]

I started a topic in the general discussion but I’m not sure how to transfer it to the builds journal. After sitting for 27 years I got him running a few weeks ago. He has the 305E V6 engine with the three speed manual. I pulled the bed off the other day and cleaned up the frame and axle and use the POR 15 to protect it. Hoping tomorrow to put the new fuel tank in.

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Ccsmith

To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?

I started a topic in the general discussion but I’m not sure how to transfer it to the builds journal. After sitting for 27 years I got him running a few weeks ago. He has the 305E V6 engine with the three speed manual. I pulled the bed off the other day and cleaned up the frame and axle and use the POR 15 to protect it. Hoping tomorrow to put the new fuel tank in.

Looks like it's been awhile since that heater was connected!

Keep up the good work, CC. We'll be watching for more progress photos.

[James]

I'm not sure but I think the heater hose need to be connected between the inlet to the outlet, even though it just circulating the coolant. I believed that extra flow will allow enough heated coolant from both heads to pass by the thermostat and allow it to open. Without it its possible for the engine to overheat without any indication on the dash. I don't know if the bypass hose to the pump is sufficient to prevent overheating. Like I said I am not sure what will happen. Just my thoughts.

[Ccsmith]

Thanks for the advice and keep it coming. Kinda learning as i go. Until i get a new radiator i have only run it for less than a minute because i didnt want it to get hot. I did connect the old rad but didnt see any flow so maybe hooking those up will get me the flow. Right now there is no thermostat in it as well. I guess they drove it without one. Got the new fuel tank installed yesterday.

[James]

With no thermostat it will take forever to warm up.

[James]

I was thinking about your truck today and it occur to me that you might want to dig into the engine a little deeper.

I understand why some people would leave the thermostat out. A colder running engine produce more power. This might be true on a racing engine, it is not true for a daily driver. My truck takes about 5 miles to get it up to normal temperature with a thermostat. It does not like to run when it is cold and sometime I have to use the choke.

If they did drive it without a thermostat don't be surprise when you remove the valve cover (for your routine valve adjustments) that you will find a lot of carbon/sludge build up everywhere. Not allowing the engine to come up to proper operating temperature will not allow the water/fuel to leave the engine oil through the crankcase vent system. If this is allow to continue it will starve the engine of lubrication and then you will start to hear a rod knocking. I recommend removing the valve covers and pan to remove the carbon/sludge (and maybe the camshaft cover too). Then with a new filter and new oil drive the truck about 100 miles and change the filter and oil again.

This is only my opinion. It hard enough to buy parts for it and I like to keep it running.