'65 GMC 1500 project. From the Netherlands

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Prowbar

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Well, sometimes things do not go as expected. A fire ravaged the place where I worked on the bed parts and had stored them. Luckily the pickup (without bed) is stored elsewhere, so I'm lucky I still have it.

Its not my house, but that of my grandparents. Glad they are OK themselves. That is the most important. Sheet metal can be welded onto or replaced.

The bedsides were not great but I'm guessing they are scrap now. It seems the tailgate and front panel and still salvageable. The fenders too.

So sorry to hear about your loss of bed parts, David. Thank goodness your grandparents are OK. Like you said, sheet metal can be replaced. Not so with grandparents.

I have no idea what European wrecking yards are like, but perhaps you could find a Chevy or GMC bed in one of them. I even bought a whole Chevy pickup one time, just to get the bed off of it for a GMC project (already had a good tailgate), then sold the still running pickup minus the bed. Some future owner could always build a flatbed for it. At least it sounds like you've still got a good GMC tailgate.

[Prowbar]

Originally Posted by Ed Snyder

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So sorry to hear about your loss of bed parts, David. Thank goodness your grandparents are OK. Like you said, sheet metal can be replaced. Not so with grandparents.

I have no idea what European wrecking yards are like, but perhaps you could find a Chevy or GMC bed in one of them. I even bought a whole Chevy pickup one time, just to get the bed off of it for a GMC project (already had a good tailgate), then sold the still running pickup minus the bed. Some future owner could always build a flatbed for it. At least it sounds like you've still got a good GMC tailgate.

Thanks for the reply Ed. Unfortunately European scrapyards aren't close to the level of 'goodness' American scrapyards are, most cars are empty shells unless they just got in. Finding a 60-66 pickup would be impossible unless it had some kind of accident damage - maybe. It is always worth looking around of course. Here in the Netherlands we have a couple of scrapyards that specialize in USA made vehicles.

My other game plan was to get a set of repro bedsides. They are available, and from what I've seen on the Brothers Trucks youtube channel, they fit proper and seem to be of good quality. I might start a thread in the bodywork section, pretty curious what other folka experience with these is. Hopefully they are a step up from the chinese non fitting junk. They are pricey though so there is that. As for shipping, we have a shop specializing in US pickup parts, they import parts from the USA. Meaning shipping costs would not be an issue here.

Maybe good sections of the original bedsides can still be salvaged - we'll see.
The tailgate is rare, glad to have it, hopefully the warpage is manageable.

Not planning to go with a flat bed - I like the original/factory design the best.

David

[WE7X]

Wow! So sorry to hear that!
Fire is a terrible thing to go through.
I lost a 6 person shop due to fire about 30 years ago.
Nobody getting hurt is a major plus. Tools and 'stuff' can be replaced but loosing a house and a shop space is a huge loss.
Best wished for the family and the projects.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
1970 GMC RM-7500 410M

[Prowbar]

Originally Posted by WE7X

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Wow! So sorry to hear that!
Fire is a terrible thing to go through.
I lost a 6 person shop due to fire about 30 years ago.
Nobody getting hurt is a major plus. Tools and 'stuff' can be replaced but loosing a house and a shop space is a huge loss.
Best wished for the family and the projects.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
1970 GMC RM-7500 410M

Thanks Rod.

[WDShaffer]

I just purchased a GM-licensed repop tailgate from LMC. Test fit was perfect. I did spend a day sanding off the finish and applying an etching primer.

[Prowbar]

I've also ordered new repro bedsides and some other bed related parts. I'll try to rescue as much OEM parts as possible. Heard good things about fitment so I went for them. Bought them through a supplier here in the Netherlands. One gentlemen here offered a OEM bed for me but unfortunately can't cancel my repro order now.

Meanwhile, I'm working on the brakes. Cleaning them up and rebuilding the wheel cylinders and brake hoses. New brake lines are also on the list. And a conversion to the dual master cylinder.

All the drums look excellent, shoes are not worn much. I've boiled them to get the muck and leaky brake fluid out of 'em. Wheel bearings and seals are as new. All the brake line nuts broke loose without a problem. All bolts came loose without an issue too, makes working on these much more enjoyable. Thats great about a vehicle that has always been in a dry and hot environment.

[Prowbar]

Hello all, sorry for the lack of updates.

Every week I try to spend a couple of hours working on the GMC. School has been very busy so unfortunately not much time to work.

Anyway. I've done the following:
-Drained the old diff. oil and cleaned up the gunk inside the diff. That oil must have been 30 years old. Gears look very good. 4.10 rear. Replaced the gasket with a new one from Felpro.

-The rear wheel seals wore a groove into the steel sealing surface on the axle. I ordered SKF Speedi Sleeves (no. 99240) and installed them.

-All brake components have been cleaned and rebuilt where necessary. I still have to replaced all the brake lines and convert to the dual master. Ordered DOT 5 silicone brake fluid to be used.

While I was waiting on brake parts I've tackled the propeller shafts. What a mess. On of the u-joints was completely cooked - including the press fit bore into the prop shaft. Also the center bearing must have had a poor press fit, resulting in a rubbing motion of the bearing on the shaft. Aka it was worn undersized.

To repair the center bearing I've machine the worn area round and true to the splines. Then machine a bushing that I split. The 2 halves fit exactly on the machined area. Welded these split bushing on the machine area, and them turned those down for a light press fit with the center bearing. It took some doing but all is well. A very satisfactory repair.

The one press fit that was ruined due to the bad u-joint had the ID filled in with weld. it was then bored out for a new press fit. That worked out good as well.

Then replaced the center bearing with a new one from SKF and all the u-joints with new ones from Moog. Reassembled the whole kitten kaboodle and found out that the grease fittings were inaccessible because I had them facing the wrong way (should have faced the grease fittings to the axle itself

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). So I turned all the u joints around and she was done.

I've also taken the WW carb off and I am rebuilding it. The throttle linkage with the butterfly valves has some play on the shaft. I will ream out the holes and solder on bushings to be turned down with the proper fit.

On the topic of rear axles - what does one recommend for the rear axle wheel bearings regarding lubrication. Mine came out greased. I figured the rear diff oil would lubricate them. Should I grease them, or dip them in diff oil, or fill the hubs with diff oil?

[Prowbar]

More pictures.
1st picture shows the complete Speedi Sleeve. I removed the radii piece (as is possible) with used the bearing to carefully tap it further onto the sealing surface.

2nd picture. Guess what is wrong. Took that one while I was lying underneath the truck, installing the driveshaft for the first time.

3rd picture installed center bearing.

[Prowbar]

4th picture: cooked u joint.
5th picture: worn area caused by rubbing center bearing.

[James]

Originally Posted by Prowbar

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On the topic of rear axles - what does one recommend for the rear axle wheel bearings regarding lubrication. Mine came out greased. I figured the rear diff oil would lubricate them. Should I grease them, or dip them in diff oil, or fill the hubs with diff oil?

A full floating rear axle is lubricated with the rear end oil. If someone put grease in the hub bearing it was because the oil seal was leaking. Installing the Speedi Sleeves should take care of the problem. On my truck I cleaned the grooves and filled it with Devcon Titanium and sanded it down smooth. Have over 6300 miles on it and no leaks. When you fill the rear axle raise one rear wheel as high as you can go to allow the rear end oil to flow into the hub. After 30 minutes or so do the other wheel. Then recheck your rear end oil.

Hope this help.