1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Slide your tail shaft into the case again, but not all the way.



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Take a finger full of bearing grease and rub it around the inside of the seal we just put in to make sure the tailshaft doesn't tear it up or cause any problems.



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Pry the little clip open again...



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When it's open you can bang it with a hammer, just a small tap, and it'll slide home.



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The tail portion is done!

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Grab the input shaft now and put it in a vise.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Take a punch or a piece of pencil like metal and pound it gently with a hammer.



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The race will fall off.



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Old and new



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Just pound on the new one like you did the other. Remember to put the little groove facing up toward the front of the shaft so you can get the little keeper ring back on later!



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It needs to stop just a hair's breadth from the gear under it.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Run around and hunt for your new snap ring.



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Snap it on the race (that's the bearing, remember?)



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Pound the input shaft in with a hammer



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stop when the snap ring gets to just above the case



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[raycow]

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

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That bearing is called a "race". (thanks Raycow for the terminology) Pound it down onto the shaft now.

Actually it isn't. The "race" is just the inner or outer ring that the spherical rolling elements run against (I had to say it that way because the censorship software won't let me say *****). The complete bearing is called....uhh....well.....a bearing.

Ray

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Now put your gears back in. They take some wiggling to get in the right spot and up on the shaft.



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Find your tail gasket and RTV it



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Stick it to the back of the case



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Get the tail portion ready for entry.

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Slide your two rings back on, this is the back ring.



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Get a fingerfull of grease and smear it on the two spots that bearings need to stick. Dont mind my nasty fingers. Eww. I smell like transmission fluid every day now.



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Start loading your new bearings on. Big ones on the tip, skinny long ones in the back.



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Done! now if you're really good you can slip it in like this and all of your bearings will stay put. If you're not (And I tried for six hours) put a little tiny rubber band around the tip bearings to hold them in place. The rubber band will dissolve in the trans oil after a few feet of movement.




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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by raycow

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Actually it isn't. The "race" is just the inner or outer ring that the spherical rolling elements run against (I had to say it that way because the censorship software won't let me say *****). The complete bearing is called....uhh....well.....a bearing.

Ray

Well shucks! Ok, I'll use Bearing from here out

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The struck out word (Jeannie if this isn't allowed just delete this line) is the plural of ball for those that didnt see the other thread.

Thanks again!

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Back at the front, put the stupid backwards threaded nut back on



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Goop up the gasket and put it on, making sure to put the hole lined up with the hole at the bottom of the bearing you installed. Then goop up the outside.



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Put the cover back on, lining up the hole again. It looks to me like a weep hole for moisture or something. Torque it down good.



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Now back to the tail section. If you haven't yet, put red RTV silicone around the outside of the gasket you just stuck to the back. Then slide the tail portion in slowly. Grit your teeth and say a prayer too. This really took me forever to get right. the needle bearings kept falling off until I used a rubber band on the tip bearings.



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Here's a pic of the rubber banded bearings. I ended up only binding the front ones.



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if you're lucky and it slides in all the way start bolting it down. If you have a 4x4 the long bolts go in the side with the shift stalks.




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Torque them down enough that you see RTV silicone squirting out the case crack



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Put RTV on the port gasket, both sides.



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Get ready to put the cover back on. you need to line up the 1st and reverse gear (small sliding ring) with the fat forks on the cover. And line up the 2/3 gears (long fat pepsi can lookin bit) witht he small fork. Just the lip on the end of the can is all that you need to worry about.



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Here's a shot of the gears lined up with the forks. I hope you can make it out OK.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Torque it down too until you see silicone coming out.



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Now grab your new clutch and pressure plate. Mine looked like it had been on the shelf a while. it didn't include that bar thing that lines up the clutch plate.



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And the throwout bearing is quite a bit larger. Here's old and new. The new one has a zerk fitting on it. I bought a $30.00 grease gun just for this. I needed one anyway.



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let's see how it fits.

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Grab your new pilot bearing, that's the small one. Get some bearing grease and grease it up really good. Mash grease in the part of the bearing with the ball bearings too. Place it on your newly refinished flywheel.



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Gently smack it with a hammer. It'll go right in. (side note, I forgot that it went in the flywheel and spent two and a half hours trying to bang it into the crank shaft.

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)



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It should end up flat in there.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I laid my flywheel on my fat belly after lying on my crawler. This made moving it under Cecilia much easier. Once under there I rolled it off slowly and into it's spot.



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You'll have to get under it and muscle it up onto the crankshaft lip. Once there it'll jump right off if you look at it crosseyed. Shortly after this picture it jumped off on me and hit my ring finger hard enough that I thought it was broken. Now I'm pretty sure it's just sprained. It's swollen up to twice normal size and it doesn't like to move, but I can bend it ok. Straightening is a problem.

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You can see from the rust patterns which set of bolts goes where on the flywheel. One set of bolts has a hole in the middle of the metal thing that holds two of them together. Keep an eye on that one and slowly turn it around (Remember this is where I got hurt. Be CAREFUL!!!!!) until the holes line up. start putting bolts in. If they all don't go in easy, it's not the right holes. Take them out and turn it more then try again.



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Once in place and easily screwed in hand tight, torque them down. Mine were super-torqued, remember? This time they're only electric-impact-wrench tight. (300 ft-lbs)



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Here you should go take a break. You've earned it. Plus you have a 900 lb pressure plate and clutch to muscle up next. You'll need to be fresh if you're a weenie-armed guy like me.



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I was bone tired at this point so I guess I forgot to snap more pics, but you just keep the clutch and pressure plate together like above, and shove the whole shebang up in behind the flywheel. Have a bolt ready to screw in, you'll need (and want) to get it in the first hole that lines up. These holes aren't offset so any hole goes with any bolt.



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I torqued them down with the impact again then I used a 9/16" wrench to move the bolt clockwise, turning the whole crank to the next hole. Just like when I took them out.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

The next day I was so sore I could barely move. So I ate some pills and did piddly work, painting stuff. I had a little bit of original paint on the transmission so I tried all of the orangy colored paints at my local autoparts store. I couldn't find one that matched exactly, but VHT brand Chevy Orange was pretty close. It lacks some rusty-red coloring but it dried decently close. Enough for this poor boy.



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So i painted half of it. When it dried 5 coats thick it was way oranger than the original paint. I should have gone with the chrysler red stuff.

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While it dried I put more bedliner stuff on these bits. I thought about doing the fat pin that goes in the shifter but decided it would make it too thick to get back together. It's a tight fit and it'll be covered in grease already.



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As I painted it I thought I should test that little zerk fitting. it was clogged up so I took it off. It just unscrews.



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I rooted out the hole with a coathanger. You'll know you're done when you can poke the coathanger all the way through and no more dirt falls out.



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Then put the zerk fitting back on and try pumping grease into it. If it works, you'll see grease start to fill up the hole. you can barely see some grease in this pic. If it doesn't work your zerk fitting might be clogged or bad. Get a new one at the auto parts store for $2.99 or a complete set of them for $14.00.



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I had a spot on the transmission hump where the shifter goes through that was bent so I banged it out to where I thought it looked factory shaped. It's a wavey bit of metal so I did it straight along the wave.



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Then I wire wheeled it and opened a can of this stuff. it's supposed to be thicker and much tougher than the spray on stuff I've been using.



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They aren't kidding. It's way more textured than the spray on stuff. Thicker too with little rubber bits through it. I'm not sure I like the look, but if it protects better it's what I want. it'll go on everything underneath and my floorboards under the sound deadener.



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I also put it on these circled parts because they live under the truck too and will get splashed with all kinds of stuff. I put two coats on everything. The shifter only got herculiner on the bottom portion that sits below the shift boot.



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