Problem with clutch disengaging

[Clarke]

Originally Posted by Clarke

I took several pictures of the clutch kit and will post them soon.

Photos of the 12" clutch kit I installed...

[Jim A]

I wonder if this whole discussion is still open.
I have had a problem with failure to completely disengage for years and have tried everything.
If there is anyone reading this, let me know so I can pose specific questions.
1960 3/4 4 spd, 2 wheel drive. Purchased 50 years ago, runs good.

[Funky61]

Go ahead and ask Jim, I'm sure someone will respond.

[Clarke]

Originally Posted by Jim A

I wonder if this whole discussion is still open.
I have had a problem with failure to completely disengage for years and have tried everything.
If there is anyone reading this, let me know so I can pose specific questions.
1960 3/4 4 spd, 2 wheel drive. Purchased 50 years ago, runs good.

Hello...

Mine was related to a weak pressure plate. I proved it by adding washers as shims between the pressure plate and flywheel, then it disengaged.

Anyway, ended up upgrading all clutch components from 11” to 12” and all has been good. Since then I’ve driven about 12K miles with no issues. Most of those miles was hauling a load.

[Jim A]

I replaced the clutch assembly sometime in the last century, probably in the '80's. It worked fine for years.
The current problem would seem to be one of adjustment, where I have never been able to get full release without what I assume is constant wear on the throwout bearing.
I have recently put in an new master cylinder with an eye to small leaks in both the clutch and brake systems. It did not seem to improve the clutch drag, which of course is most notable in granny and reverse.
I use the truck so seldom now that I really don't want to pull the tranny. The release is not a problem while moving, but the TO bearing is.
I have the release rod in the middle (second) hole without a "wedge." Are either of those a possible cause?
Thanks for ideas.

[Funky61]

I hope this might help you.

[Clarke]

I also have mine set up in the middle hole with the recommended slack.

With my old pressure plate I had to adjust the rod tight, which caused the throw out bearing to spin all the time. That’s when I added washers to shim the pressure plate out, but that didn’t fix it. I was just trying to get by a little longer to allow for more garage time.

So I pulled the tranny and upgraded to the 12” clutch assy.

[Clarke]

I forgot to mention the previous owner had replaced the clutch assy only a few years before I purchased the truck from him, but he didn’t drive it much and at the time I had only driven it 5K Miles. Therefore, pressure plate didn’t last long.

The pressure plate I removed had lots of fingers; whereas, the new one I installed only has three.

[Jim A]

After taking up all the slack on the throw-out rod (and then some), things worked fine for the next several trips. I knew this set-up would finish off the throw-out sooner or later.
This week hauling hay, it disengaged fine with no complaints even in granny and reverse.
Then it quit disengaging almost completely. requiring killing the engine and starting in gear with up shifts really difficult, but worked to get home and hay in barn.
I think the pressure plate or disc has failed but will have to pull to find out.
Since I haven't pulled the tranny for 30 years or more and lost my manuals since then, I could use some help with the steps of the procedure to pave my way.
A link to directions or ideas from personal experience both would be useful.
Thanks

[Jim A]

This is turning out poorly so far.
Upon pulling the clutch I think I found the problem of failure to release was the grinding off of the finger tips!
I am not sure how thick they were where they engage the throw-out bearing, but it looks like 1/8" plus is gone. Of course every bit of loss reduced the amount of disengagement.
This wear had to come from the throw-out bearing face, but it shows no damage and the bearing itself works as it should.
The flywheel and pressure plate surfaces look new.
So I am temporarily stumped and not sure of the main problem.
Kits are not available, custom rebuilds expensive, correct t/o's hard to find.
If there are replacement fingers available, I would try that route.
Any ideas are welcome/