'65 Dash Cluster Wiring Terminals

[gmcdan1963]

Originally Posted by James

Which one are you thinking about getting? I might be able to help you locate it.

Thanks for the links you posted James. My last post has the manufacturer's part number and Digi-key's part numbers. I found a website today that I included a link to that had these terminals and others I'm planning to order, but the link has nit cleared the moderators yet. It also had a $50 minimum charge.

Digi-key did let me add the terminals I wanted and with shipping I'm around $30. I'll place the order tomorrow after I review that I have every I need in the shopping cart.

Thanks for the help.
Daniel

[gmcdan1963]

Originally Posted by AZKen

I posted they are available in quantities of 1. Do you copy? Over.

Yes Ken, I copy. I stopped looking at the digi-key website after I found a couple different websites that had drawings with dimensions that I compared to what was in the GMC trucks. I then continued with the manufacturer number and did not see they were also listed on digi-key as individuals until you pointed that out. Thanks for pointing that out, it seems like the cheapest place so far.

Thanks
Daniel

[AZKen]

On the Digi-Key site, hit the pdf. file to the left. That is the dimensioned drawing. The DigiKey terminal is tinned so you can crimp and solder if you wanted to. I think you will of course, have to cut off the tab in the front. The tab may be for the tape and reel. Not sure what it is?

Commentary for posterity, not aimed at you:
Most of the industry calls the fork style a spade. Most of the industry calls the flat, solid style a blade. In our trucks, there is NO place, anywhere, anytime that the spade/fork should be used. It is not safe, it can come loose and fall out and short out. It is strictly prohibited in the Military and Aerospace industry. It has no business being in any electrical or electronic system except the old hard wired telephones, a Mickey Mouse auto speaker install or other low, or no, voltage applications. Ring tongue only, except where a component has an integral male mate "built-in" for blade or bullet. I.E. blade: fuse panels, cigarette lighter, wiper motors, gauges and such. I.E. bullet: Your gauge cluster, cigarette lighters, gauges.
Blade and bullet are also called quick disconnect and sometimes used "inline" where required. Don't know any truck application for that......but never use fork/open ended/spade or any other name for them. There will never be a reason to use fork over other types. I don't know of any place on our old trucks that have a screw that can't be removed. Electricians sometimes have to use crimp fork because the device screw won't come off. If it will, they use crimp ring tongue when dealing with stranded wire. End.

Glad you found the PN for the small quantity. Sounds like you are all set now.

[gmcdan1963]

Originally Posted by AZKen

On the Digi-Key site, hit the pdf. file to the left. That is the dimensioned drawing. The DigiKey terminal is tinned so you can crimp and solder if you wanted to. I think you will of course, have to cut off the tab in the front. The tab may be for the tape and reel. Not sure what it is?

I use my phone for internet at home and can't open PDF's. The digi-key website is also not as friendly with phone use as some of the others, that's why I went elsewhere that was easier to navigate on my phone after I had the part number I needed.

The spade terminals are handy for ground terminals. I don't always use them, I prefer the ring terminals but sometimes it's nice to have a spade that doesn't require the complete removal of the machine screw or fastener holding it in place.

The terminals are manufactured in a roll and it is part of the manufacturing process. The original ones in the GMC have the same flat edge where it was cut and polished/sanded down. These will obviously need to be cut and cleaned up, but I don't consider that modifying them.

Thanks,
Daniel

[AZKen]

Originally Posted by gmcdan1963

The spade terminals are handy for ground terminals. I don't always use them, I prefer the ring terminals but sometimes it's nice to have a spade that doesn't require the complete removal of the machine screw or fastener holding it in place.

....and when would that be?

Grounds are the number one problem area with electrical malfunctions in trucks. It's the last place to screw around with fork terminals, or fork around with screw terminals. There is no place where it's "nice" to have them. The risk is to high vs. just having to unscrewing a screw. You can't make something seem right when it's wrong. Chill.

Sounds like it's all figured out, now the back breaking wiring work starts.

[gmcdan1963]

Originally Posted by AZKen

....and when would that be?

Grounds are the number one problem area with electrical malfunctions in trucks. It's the last place to screw around with fork terminals, or fork around with screw terminals. There is no place where it's "nice" to have them. The risk is to high vs. just having to unscrewing a screw. You can't make something seem right when it's wrong. Chill.

True, grounds are a common issue (corroded & loose), and the 2nd or 3rd thing I check.
If a screw holding a ring or spade terminal comes loose, either way its going to make a bad ground. Like I said, I prefer the ring terminals (I'm ordering some locking ring terminals with the teeth on them), but the is not a one size fits all world, it's nice to have options. My daily driver (made in the last 4 years) has the spade terminals on it. If they are good enough for vehicle engineers, they are acceptable in a 50+ year old vehicle that sees less than 3000 miles a year.

Thanks,
Daniel

[gmcdan1963]

Update:

I've been pretty busy and haven't had time to update since ordering the terminals from digi-key.

I ordered a few different terminals that I was hoping would work for this application and found one that I like better than the others. There doesn't seem to be an exact match available from digi-key (I looked on other sites without much luck there either).

I'll attach a picture of the one I believe is the best fit and didn't require much of a modification.
It's manufacturer's part number is: 42101-2
It's digi-key part number is: A100615CT-ND

This terminal can be crimped on the 16-18 AWG wires for the dash gauges and fits inside the factory plastic connector. It can also be soldered if you don't have the correct crimping tool.

The male pin on the the back side of the gauge panel is approx 3/32" dia and the inside of the gauge harness connector is approx 5/32" dia.
The factory terminal was almost oval in shape to fill the connector, but still make contact with the male pin on the gauge cluster.

I couldn't find a terminal that would meet all the size requirements and could also be pressed into the oval shape like the factory.
This is why I like the terminal listed above. It has a split barrel, with two parts to it. I was able to slightly open the very tip of the barrel for easier alignment with the gauge pin, and still maintained good contact with the lower portion.

It was a little more work to get the terminals to align than with the factory one, but not impossible. It is a snug fit so using some dielectric grease might help with removal in the future.

It took 4 days to get the package from digi-key, and the box was much larger than needed (it shipped priority mail rather than first class =$$) but I'd order from them again.

Daniel

[gmcdan1963]

Pictures of terminals

[James]

I'm glad you found something that will work. I will defiantly keep this on my spare part list. Thanks