Turn signal flasher

[AZKen]

Next
Everything is hooked up.
- Front light is OK.......
- High beam is OK............
- Parking light (separate harness because of law here) is OK ...........
- Tail light is OK.........
- Dome light is OK......
- Turn signal front not OK
- Turn signal back not OK
- Brake light not OK

So starting at top of your list.
Headlights work with headlight switch? H4 bulb?????
High beams work with dimmer switch?
Park lights work with headlight switch? T10 bulb?????
Tail lights come on with headlight switch?
Dome light is satisfactory.
DO YOU HAVE ANY LED BULBS? These may take a special flasher to work. May take a relay or two to work.


I will cover the "not" working after we get these answered. I will wait a few minutes and then go to bed.

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by AZKen

So, they will come off soon? They seem to be the turn signal, right? and then how will you wire? direct to socket contact of the turn signal housing.?

When I install the turn signal wiring harness on the hood they will come off. It's only for testing to connect the wire of the socket with the wire of the harness. I will directly wire to the socket with a crimp connector.

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by AZKen

Next
Everything is hooked up.
- Front light is OK.......
- High beam is OK............
- Parking light (separate harness because of law here) is OK ...........
- Tail light is OK.........
- Dome light is OK......
- Turn signal front not OK
- Turn signal back not OK
- Brake light not OK

So starting at top of your list.
Headlights work with headlight switch? H4 bulb????? Yes on stage two when I pull out the switch. Yes, with H4 bulb
High beams work with dimmer switch? Correct
Park lights work with headlight switch? T10 bulb????? Yes on stage two when I pull out the switch. I bridged it on the headlight switch. They have to shine together with headlight (http://6066gmcguy.com/parklamp6466.html). Bulb is a 12V, T4W with a Ba9s socket
Tail lights come on with headlight switch? Yes, correct
Dome light is satisfactory. When I turn the headlight switch to the left or right (I don't know it by heart) the bulb burns
DO YOU HAVE ANY LED BULBS? These may take a special flasher to work. May take a relay or two to work. No LED bulbs


I will cover the "not" working after we get these answered. I will wait a few minutes and then go to bed.

Answered your questions in blue color.
Thank you for your service

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by GMCTom

Park light in combination with turn signal in the hood is not allowed in Austria/Germany. We have to use this small bulbs in the headlight for our parklights. Only white light is allowed for parking light.
Turn signal for itself in orange in the hood is OK.
It is also not allowed to use sealed beam head lights. It must be possible to change the bulb (H4) in the event of a failure.

[AZKen]

Ok now to the turn signals.
1. I see a pic with the front turn signal sockets laying on the drivers inner fender. Wired and ready for testing. Each socket has a dual filament bulb. Correct?

2. I see in same pic the rear tail light housings with sockets installed. Wired and ready for testing. Each housing has a dual filament bulb.. Correct?
I realize some of the test wires are temporary.

3. I see your pic of turn signal connections. I understand you have the truck side all done with packard 56 connector shell and contacts. You have just the contacts plugged in from the switch side for testing, No shell yet, Correct?
Do you have the colors matched at that connection? If not matched Please give color to color list. Switch side "in" color and truck side "out" color.

4. You have a wideside bed. Correct? Not "step side".

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by AZKen

Ok now to the turn signals.
1. I see a pic with the front turn signal sockets laying on the drivers inner fender. Wired and ready for testing. Each socket has a dual filament bulb. Correct? Correct.

2. I see in same pic the rear tail light housings with sockets installed. Wired and ready for testing. Each housing has a dual filament bulb.. Correct? Correct
I realize some of the test wires are temporary. Yes temporary connected for testing but all with ground and function.

3. I see your pic of turn signal connections. I understand you have the truck side all done with packard 56 connector shell and contacts. You have just the contacts plugged in from the switch side for testing, No shell yet, Correct? Correct. Removed the shell because it is to big to remove through the steering column.
Do you have the colors matched at that connection? If not matched Please give color to color list. Switch side "in" color and truck side "out" color. Colors matching. Only difference is that I used for light blue a blue/white wire on the truck side. Light blue wires are not available here

4. You have a wideside bed. Correct? Not "step side". Yes it is a wideside/fleetside, longbed.

Answered your questions in blue color

[AZKen]

OK, Lets check your wiring.
For the front turn signals. You have a dual filament bulb. That is OK but you will only use the large filament. I see three wires on each socket. This means only one socket wire will be wired to turn signal for each side. One wire not used and the ground will be attached to good ground place near light. Assuming the black wire is for ground. Socket may ground itself to hood when installed.
The left front T/S lamp large filament wire will be wired to Light blue switch wire. Right front T/S lamp large filament wire will be wired to dark blue switch wire. (Each of those will have a companion wire to the dash turn indicator bulb. Either two wires from one terminal or spliced. See diagram.)

If you test bulbs before installing on truck, the sockets/housing MUST BE GROUNDED.


Rear turn next:
You will use both filaments on each light. One is from the light switch only(small filament) and one from the T/S switch (large filament). Large filament left rear is wired to yellow switch wire. Large filament right rear is wired to dark green switch wire.
Small filaments are spliced together with license light, any way you wish....and they are wired to the headlight switch brown. So three wires going to rear. I usually eliminate the rear connector shown on diagram. This reduces voltage loss, intermittence and possible moisture entry.

This leaves VIO WHT BLK switch wires.
1. VIO is supplying the flash signal to T/S switch and is wired to fuse panel flasher terminal "L"
2. WHT goes to one terminal of brake switch
3. BLK goes to horn relay.
4. Other terminal on brake switch goes to headlight switch terminal as shown on diagram. Same terminal as a fused hot. see diagram.
Of course some wires mentioned may go thru connectors where indicated on diagram.

FIY: When making a turn and at the same time applying brakes, the turn signal switch shuts off the large brake light filament from brake switch power on that side, to allow the large filament to flash. That is why the brake switch is wired to T/S switch.

So now you have work to do. Please advise any questions or difficulties. Check fuses.. some could be blown by previous tests/activity.

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by AZKen

OK, Lets check your wiring.
For the front turn signals. You have a dual filament bulb. That is OK but you will only use the large filament. I see three wires on each socket. This means only one socket wire will be wired to turn signal for each side. One wire not used and the ground will be attached to good ground place near light. Assuming the black wire is for ground. Socket may ground itself to hood when installed.
The left front T/S lamp large filament wire will be wired to Light blue switch wire. Right front T/S lamp large filament wire will be wired to dark blue switch wire. Each of those will have a companion wire to the dash turn indicator bulb. Either two wires from one terminal or spliced. See diagram.

I checked the wiring. It is as you described. Light blue (blue/white) is the left T/S. Dark blue is the right T/S. The violet wire connects left and right T/S socket. Black wire on each socket will ground to hood or socket housing.
And yes, one light blue (blue/white) and one dark blue wire routes from firewall connector to the dash connector.

If you test bulbs before installing on truck, the sockets/housing MUST BE GROUNDED.

I tested the T/S harness with the flasher and the bulb sockets directly on the battery (+). Sockets were grounded (-). Flasher and bulbs function was perfect.


Rear turn next:
You will use both filaments on each light. One is from the light switch only(small filament) and one from the T/S switch (large filament). Large filament left rear is wired to yellow switch wire. Large filament right rear is wired to dark green switch wire.
Small filaments are spliced together with license light, any way you wish....and they are wired to the headlight switch brown. So three wires going to rear. I usually eliminate the rear connector shown on diagram. This reduces voltage loss, intermittence and possible moisture entry.

It is wired as you describe At the moment the wires are connected together with the square orange click connectors

This leaves VIO WHT BLK switch wires.
1. VIO is supplying the flash signal to T/S switch and is wired to fuse panel flasher terminal "L" OK, I think here is the problem. The L of the flasher is connected to the brown wire. But the fuse panel is wired like the original. I was on this path a few days. Please see post #7. I will post a photo of my fuse panel backside
2. WHT goes to one terminal of brake switch Correct
3. BLK goes to horn relay. Correct. Horn works perfect.
4. Other terminal on brake switch goes to headlight switch terminal as shown on diagram. Same terminal as a fused hot. see diagram. Correct
Of course some wires mentioned may go thru connectors where indicated on diagram.

FIY: When making a turn and at the same time applying brakes, the turn signal switch shuts off the large brake light filament from brake switch power on that side, to allow the large filament to flash. That is why the brake switch is wired to T/S switch.

So now you have work to do. Please advise any questions or difficulties. Check fuses.. some could be blown by previous tests/activity.

Answered your questions in blue and red

[GMCTom]

Originally Posted by GMCTom

Ok, I connected the front harness with the turn signal and the rear harness with tail lights. Originally wired.

I have no turn signal and no brake light. Only the tail light is working. Flasher is also working directly connected to the battery.

On the brown connector on the fuse panel where the flasher is placed, my multimeter shows 12V (with ignition on). But now I found out that on the brown connector is connected the L of the flasher.
For my understanding L is normaly load with bulbs and ground. Should I change brown and violett connector on the fuse panel? X = battery/brown, L = bulbs/ground/violett. Please correct me if I‘m wrong.



Greetings

My fuse panel is wired like the original wiring diagram. But the L of the flasher is connected to the brown terminal.

Original wiring diagram



Original wired



New wired

[AZKen]

I checked the wiring. It is as you described. Light blue (blue/white) is the left T/S. Dark blue is the right T/S. The violet wire connects left and right T/S socket. Black wire on each socket will ground to hood or socket housing.

What Violet wire? I said NOTHING about a VIO wire when describing front turn signal socket wiring, You are confusing yourself and confusing me.

And yes, one light blue (blue/white) and one dark blue wire routes from firewall connector to the dash connector.
I don't care what connectors the wires go thru. I only care about you being sure a wire is connected as I describe, point to point.. JUST LIKE THE DIAGRAM.

There is no way I can get any info or confirm anything by looking at the back of your fuse panel. It does not matter what colors you used to build it as long as it is wired functionally like the diagram. I tried to explain where each turn signal switch color goes functionally and used the colors you said you have coming from the switch. Wire the lights as I describe. I don't know all the colors you used for which.