Jethro's 1964 I1000

[jagarra]

This knob matches the others in your dash.

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Normally the heater controls are a group four lever type with a small knob. I don't recognise your switch and where it is located, maybe it was added on later.

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Jethro

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I've been looking for the elusive GMC heater knob. Pert near impossible to find.

The deluxe heater came with the slider knobs. Yours is the somewhat rare standard heater control. It came with a round, oblong knob. You should be able to see an example in these old photos.

[Jethro]

That's it, Ed. And that's about as good a pic as I've seen. It's different than the Chevy. Do you know if the Chevy knob will work until I can find the GMC knob?

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Jethro

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That's it, Ed. And that's about as good a pic as I've seen. It's different than the Chevy. Do you know if the Chevy knob will work until I can find the GMC knob?

Sorry, Jethro, but I'm not familiar with the Chevy knobs. All I can suggest is just to try it and see if it works.

[Jethro]

I s'pose I'll give it a try. Cold weather is coming soon.

[Jethro]

Score!
I got a screamin' deal on a used C⁵lifford 4 barrel intake, Holley carb. And Clifford headers.
More stuff for spring.



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The chrome came from Amazon.

[Jethro]

It's been a little while since I've had a chance to do any work on the truck. Seems like there's always something else that has to be done first. Finally got some free time tho and used it well.

The P.O. had told me he just did the brakes. They worked fair... mostly. Except when they pulled hard left... sometimes. Or right... occasionally. And the brake fluid would disappear intermittently. Otherwise they were fine.

The original single line brake system is not one I like. Last year I bought a master cylinder for a 4-drum 67 C10. Also all 3 hoses and a roll of steel line and some fittings. Just now got the chance to upgrade.

The O.E. master cylinder mounts to the firewall with 2 bolts in a diagonal pattern.
The 67 master mounts horizontal.



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Luckily, GMC put both bolt patterns there for me. I did have to switch the bolts around. There are 2 different length bolts. The long ones go thru the master cylinder.



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[Jethro]

There is only the one brake line from the O.E. master cylinder. It goes down to the frame and connects to a tee. From there, one side feeds the Left front wheel cylinder and the other side feeds a line to another tee over on the right side.

I ran a new steel line from the master cylinder down to that first tee. I also ran a new short steel line over to the left front brake hose and installed a new hose while I was there.
Here's where we start to change things. After removing the steel line to the right side tee I made a new steel line all the way to the right front hose. I had purchased a new hose but this one looked fine so I left it.
Now the front brakes are isolated from the rear on one half of the new master.

Next I removed the tee from the right side and the entire steel line and crispy old hose to the rear brakes. A new steel line was installed all the way to the new rear hose.
Now the rear brakes are isolated on the other half of the new master.

The pedal was really low even after bleeding the system. Because the rod from the pedal to the master was a half inch short. I cut it and lengthened it. I can't recommend just anybody doing this. Kinda important. But that's what I did. It's sleeved. Plenty strong.



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[Jethro]

I feel a whole lot safer now with the split brake system.

If you wanted to do this conversion and your brakes really were in good condition you'd be done. This was not the case.
When I test drove my truck it dove left hard every time. At least it was consistent now.

The next chance I got I pulled the wheels for a proper look-see.
To say I was unimpressed by the last mechanic's skills is an understatement.

Both front brakes were installed backwards. The bearings were just barely greased. Left front cylinder leaking. Right front adjuster all the way loose and froze.
Rear brakes had a leaky cylinder on the right. Both primary shoes on right rear. Both secondary shoes on left. Parking cables cut on both sides. Random hardware.

I replaced the right front hose after all. Replaced both front wheel cylinders. And put all the shoes on correctly. Adjusted everything up and bled the front again.

Stops great now!

I have the 2 rear wheel cylinders and a hardware kit. Have a replacement parking brake actuator for the missing one. Waiting on new cables. Then I'll finish up the rear brakes and be really happy.

Next project will be a radio install.
The radio hole is already hacked so I don't have to even feel guilty.

[Jethro]

So I let better judgement prevail and worked on other stuff before the radio. Namely the headlights. They were all wonky. The left pointed kinda down and the right pointed up and right. Hard to see at night...

I ordered a whole set of adjuster kits and springs a few weeks ago and decided to tackle a quick and easy job. Or so I thought.

The grill was a little bent. Made it pretty hard just to remove the trim bezels. Thought I took a pic before. Guess not.
Anyway, once the bezels were off I could see that the springs were all stretched out and most all of the adjusters were broken. The driver side horizontal was nothing more than a sheet metal screw.



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