1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Now I put the bolt of the arm through the steering connection on the wheel. Then I put the castle nut back on. It's 3/4" if my alzheimers isn't kicking in. I did have trouble getting it back on. It wanted to cross thread but I finally got it with....wait for it....some grease applied

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It doesn't need to be super tight, just snug until you can get a cotter pin through the hole in the bolt and through the nut castle parts. If it's too tight it won't move smoothly (as me how I figured that one out lol).



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After shoving the pin through the hole I bent it around like the previous one to keep it stuck in there.



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After that I put the wheel on. Lug nuts and all. Really bouncing around with excitement at this point.



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And finally I got to lower the jack. I actually RAN to get the handle

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And that was it! I was DONE SON!

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And I ended up with extra grease too. Just a little.



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I finger scooped it out of the destroyed tube...and put it into my other tube! Scottish, remember? Arrrr!! That's a penny saved, my friend!



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I saved my old bolts too just in case I ever need them. Labeled like a good mechanic.



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And put in a larger bag of extra parts, also labeled.



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And that's the end of this saga! Thanks as always to BarryGMC for the hand-holding when I needed it and the kick in the pants when I didn't. And thanks to Jonathon for the parts numbers and extra tips. If not for the two of you I'd have never made it through this. What a heck of a deal, right?

Thanks to everyone else that read my mess here or contributed, or sent me a PM (you guys really should just post so everyone can see the tips. They're good!) or was involved in any way.

And thanks to Quad4x4.com for simultaneously supplying the parts I needed and making my butt pucker up for having to spend over $200 to get them. You guys are great at helping but you should really re-think those $13.00 grease seals

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I'll leave you guys with a joke.

Guy 1: I was going to work today and I saw a Scotsman scraping off his wallpaper.
Guy 2: Oh, was he re-decorating?
Guy 1: No, he was MOVING! Har har har!

(because scots are so cheap, get it? He wasn't paying for new wallpaper, no way!)

Anyway, have a great weekend everyone. I'll do the other side this week if I can get enough time but I won't drag you guys through it again. After this I think I'll do the front and rear end. New oil, new gaskets, etc. And I still need to get that transfer case done. The wheels are a-turnin! (And I like them like that!)



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[BarryGMC]

One more thing get some 60 weight motor oil and fill the knuckle through the pipe plug on the knuckle. I use half wheel bearing grease and 60# motor oil. The knuckle actually is supposed to be filled with 140 gl. But the mix works better IMO. Most old Jeepers use the mix. Next I would pull the diff cover and clean out the pumpkin and refill it with 80-90 gl.

[BarryGMC]

You have a plug like this. Fill it like your trans. Its on the left in this pic.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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You have a plug like this. Fill it like your trans. Its on the left in this pic.

In this slot here?



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I know I said I wasn't going to talk about the driver's side hub, but...well I learned a couple more things so I thought I should share!

First, there's a steering part on top of the drivers side that you CAN NOT REMOVE. Ok, maybe you can, but I can't. It's molded from one piece of steel as far as I'm concerned.

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I took the nuts off the top and hammered the crap out of the bottom part of it but it never moved. I took a screwdriver and cleaned around it and finally I found what I thought was a lock washer on it. I stuck a screwdriver into the cut and hammered it to get it to spin around the bolt. It moved.



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I finally spun it around enough that it came out. It's threaded inside, but not very deeply. You do have to spin it around till it comes out apparently.



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There are four of these in that steering top piece. I got two of mine out, but the last two wouldn't come out at all. I finally ended up taking the bottom knuckle bearing bolts out and just pulling the top off, then setting it aside.



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Oh and here's something else cool/crazy. This is my brass bushing for the driver's side. WOW

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So that had to be replaced. I already had one in stock from my quad4x4.com order so that's good. They're hard to find. Then I got that steering thing off and check this crap out!

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The bottom pic is hard to see but both of the places where my bearings go are chewed plumb up! It looks like someone leaned a dremel tool on them (a small grinder) and went out for pizza. I thought to myself OMG how can I ever afford new axles if this is all torn up?!?!?!?


Cecilia, you're breakin my heart! You're shakin' my confidence daily!




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Then I noticed something......

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....what's that??


A ray of hope....




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[BarryGMC]

That inner bushing is probably the noise you heard in 4x4. I will tell you though that steering arm has to come off. Looks like we are both breaking knuckles on a front end.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

You see in this pic that the bottom slot where the bearing sits is stepped? Like, there's the main hole, then a smaller step inward? Yeah...I notice that and my wheels started turning. I wonder if GMC allowed for just this type of problem to happen?



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I got my booger picker (metal pick) out and dug around the top and what do you know, it looks like there's a sleeve pressed in a hole there to hold the bearing! That means that if this comes out I can just replace this and BOOM baby! We're back in business!

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Thank you GMC!

I stuck my crowbar in it. It just fit enough to get a hold of the bottom of that lip inside. I pried.



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And pried, and turned, and pried. The little insert started peeking over the top of the hole it was in. Woohoo!

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Finally the little booger popped right out!



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YAY!!!!

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I tossed that piece of junk. Then I put my small hammer in the hole for the bottom insert.
It fit perfectly, so I banged on it with my sledge. It flew across the driveway

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I ran down to OReiley's and gave the guy $30.00 of hard earned cash. He was so happy to get my donation he gave me these.



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I greased up the sleeve thingy with my Archoil super-grease.



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Then I hammered it home with short little taps. Tada!



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I'll be putting it all back together tomorrow. Hopefully there won't be any more surprises. I gotta get some honey-dos done this week or The Blonde's gonna jerk a knot in my tail!

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Today I got 'er finished. A couple of things to note. The expensive $10.00 grease seals I got from Quad4x4.com were quite a bit different than the ones I got from RockAuto, and not in a good way. Take a peek. The rubber-band thin one on the right is from Quad4x4. It's almost HALF the size of the RockAuto one.



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Look at the inside here. The one on the left is the RockAuto (good) one.



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Notice on the Rock Auto one it has a little spring that goes all around the inner seal too that keeps it on target. Here's the part number again for anyone that needs to replace their grease seal.

CR Services 24898



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The second thing I ran into is this silly bushing again. On the passenger side I could hook a finger in and pull the old one out, then just as gently work the new one in. On the driver's side it had disintegrated so removal involved chiseling it out, but putting the new one in - well it didn't fit. I couldn't get it worked down inside it at all.



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I finally had to tap it down gently with a hammer but the whole time I thought it was going to shatter and I'd have to buy a new one. I even thought about using my little Willys Jeep bushing from the Dana 25, but I gave that away a long time ago and couldn't scare one up locally.
Are they supposed to be banged in? Or should they just fit?



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Anyway that was all she wrote. I got it all buttoned up- Oh wait, one more thing. I got to this point and finished putting the bolts around the spindle thingy:



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Then I got the hub installed all the way out to the selector switch...and got so excited I grabbed the tire and slapped it on. The only thing I forgot?


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The brake drum!

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That first stopping experience would have been fun! Luckily I noticed it laying by the garage door before I got her off the jack. Powder puff ran the lugs back off and we had it back on in record time. Mario Andretti would have been proud of her

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That's it for hubs. Now about that engine knock...It got less knock-y after I put some STP Zinc additive in there. I ordered some of that Archoil friction modifier too so we'll see if together they can get Cecilia quiet.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I posted this in the engines section too, but I like to keep anything I do in my build so this is a repost.

After Cecilia started knocking with the last oil change I did decide to go ahead and get some Archoil friction modifier. It came in this week. It's FORTY freakin dollars for 16 oz, shipped.



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It had a sales sheet with it too. One of the more interesting things it said was that the Boron used makes for a good, hard surface for preventing wear that's similar to diamonds in hardness.



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An added bonus is that you don't use a whole 16 oz per oil change. You only use 1.12 oz per quart, meaning this is a little over two oil changes worth.



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I'll be putting it in this weekend to see if it changes the knock.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I got my Archoil friction modifier in today. I measured out 7 oz in this handy measuring cup I had lying around a cabinet in the kitchen, mostly unused for the past 15 minutes or so.



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It looks like watery oil. Nice.



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Then it went down the hatch.



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And it still knocked. So I looked online at why engines knock and I learned something. There's a piston inside the motor. Most people know that. Ok, so that piston goes up and down when the spark plug fires.

Imagine how a guy cuts firewood. You swing the axe over your head and whoosh! Bring it down on a log. That's how a piston works if the axe head were the piston. Kinda. So knocking is like the shoulder of the lumberjack making noise. Say he's been swinging an axe for 30 years. He's kinda long in the tooth for axe work and his shoulder is kinda worn out.

When he brings the axe up his shoulder pops as his arm moves downward in the socket from the weight of the axe. That's a knock. When he swings downward it pulls on his arm and it knocks again because the shoulder goes forward in the loose socket.

Here's a drawing of what goes on inside there for the smart fellas.



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Where that arrow is on the connecting rod is where the socket gets worn, right where it swings around the crankshaft. At least that's how I understood it. You can youtube for an hour and see all kinds of reasons for engines knocking (maybe they just need to drop off a package?

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) but that's what I got for my reason.

So that part of the motor is right there when you take off the oil pan. If that's all there is to it, I'm wondering now why everyone says "That motor's trash brutha!. You hear her knocking, that's the Reaper at the door!"

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I think it shouldn't be too hard to change out those little bearings considering everything else I've done so far, right? It will run up my budget a bit more and that's unplanned, but what good is a truck if she don't run?

I'm going to study up on that a little more and see, but I think that's what I'm gonna do right now.