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GMC V6 and V12 Engines Engine repair and rebuilding |
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#31
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Don't even bring up the thought of replacing the V6 with a SBC 350. If the 305 will be too costly to rebuild there is always an alternative to find a good used one and even upgrade to a larger V6
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#32
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
I totally agree! But, realistically, there probably aren't too many used GMC big blocks laying around in junkyards in Australia.
Last edited by kchampagne; October 29th, 2016 at 05:27 AM. |
#33
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Rebuild parts for a 305 V6 really Aren't That hard to find either. I got most of the parts from O'riellys. Didn't do rings, but gaskets, rod bearings, oil pump, timing set, and casting plugs all from auto parts stores. The rings I believe are still available to and the main bearings have to be purchased NOS. Valves I think may be available through Ebay and Summit Racing. Heck, might even be available from Napa. Cam bearings unsure of as well. Parts are there, but not quite EXTREMELY hard to find. Least not a good enough reason to put a 350 in there. lol
__________________
"Excuse the rust I use my truck" 1964 GMC 1500 305E/sm420 4 barrel intake mod and dual exhaust. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 1964 Chevy C20 292/SM420 1966 Chevy C10 292 hotrod 6/TKO600 My youtube channel aka Military Chevy: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#34
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Not a chance I'm going to put 350 in.... I just couldn't see myself parting with what's in there. I guess worst case scenario would be somewhere down the line finding another 305D to replace the current one. But, that's (hopefully) a long way off yet.
Now that it's home I'm going to try to go back to driving it daily, just enjoying the old guy. However, I'm also going to do a compression test.... At least then I'll have some idea as to the general health of the engine. I think I've finally accepted that I would rather spend the time and money on tools and learning than get someone else to do the work. I guess I just thought getting an 'expert' to do the work initially was better for the truck. Is it worth posting a video so y'all can hear how it sounds? |
#35
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
I've uploaded a small video.... Sorry in advance for the file size. But, does it sound ok?
The carb has been leaned out a bit, so that's why (I think) it played up briefly (I didn't have the choke out at all because prior to today it was too rich. Also, it's like a sauna weather-wise over here) https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjwPdb4c9NJus3o3lgBeTLTkLiGL |
#36
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Sound good to me.
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#37
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Sounds pretty smooth to me. Nice truck too!
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#38
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Thanks for listening and whanot! I've been worried it's sounding more ticky than it should.
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#39
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
My computer didn't wanna load the file so I couldn't hear. Sure it runs like a top though.
__________________
"Excuse the rust I use my truck" 1964 GMC 1500 305E/sm420 4 barrel intake mod and dual exhaust. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 1964 Chevy C20 292/SM420 1966 Chevy C10 292 hotrod 6/TKO600 My youtube channel aka Military Chevy: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#40
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Re: The saga continues - Sputtering, loss of power when accelerating
Regarding your post on the 27th. The points should last more than 2 months. Mine were burning up and leaving me stranded--then I checked voltage from the key to the coil. 12 volts.
Not good, and was destroying the points in about 3 months of daily driving (back when I had hair--- see my build journal). GM built these trucks with a "fusible link" -their term for a high resistance wire- that dropped the voltage to 6 entering the coil. The PO had replaced the wire, allowing 12 volts to the coil. Chrysler (and others) use a ceramic resistor to drop the voltage. I used one I had on hand, and my points were not a problem again. Sure, they need to be checked, but they are pretty low maintenance. |
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