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Transmissions and Rear Ends Three on the tree or four in the floor? Shift it all here. |
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#31
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
Just talking to myself here.
Even though the throw-out bearing turns freely and quietly under testing (standing on it and spinning), the only thing that could have caused the release fingers and the big lever to have worn where they did as a much as they did was if the bearing froze for an extended time. If I can find three new fingers and a correct t/o bearing, I will have hope for a fix. |
#32
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
Jim, have checked this page for part numbers
http://6066gmcguy.com/partnumbers.html or even PM Lewis Matkin as he’s the parts number Guru
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1961 GMC Suburban 305A Overdrive 1962 GMC Utility 305D |
#33
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
I am having no luck finding the three release levers (fingers) that I think will put my '60 1500 back on the road and pasture.
They carry the number C-4B-200-F; the B could be an 8. They have two holes for pivots at .475 diameter, with a weird plug in the outer one. I am hoping someone has a pile of (or even one) pressure plates with good levers. I don't need the plate and the levers would be easier to ship. Thanks |
#34
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
Is this the part with the fingers you are looking for?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11504617354...EAAOSwwMZhXywc
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1961 GMC Suburban 305A Overdrive 1962 GMC Utility 305D |
#35
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
I think the control shaft broke at the clutch pedal years ago and was carelessly welded back in the wrong position relative to the adjusting rod clamp.
A modification seems to allow both free play at the t/o bearing and proper disc release. Details on request. |
#36
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
There is very little info out there about our trucks and clutches, so I just did mine and this is what I have noticed.
As posted... 12" kit's work. I got this one https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...62-1/5332559-p Two things about it you should know: -Yes, the hub on the disk is on the wrong side. That has to affect the pedal travel? -The carrier bearing inside the flywheel, it is just a race, it's not an actual bearing, but it's the correct size and will work. The throw out bearing and pressure plate were correct and matched up with my old stuff. So I left my carrier bearing and reused the 11" disk because it still looked new. I'm sure the 12" disk would be fine with a new flywheel as well, but I left my original flywheel on it.
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Jerr 1963 305 V6 1500 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by jerrspud; August 9th, 2022 at 08:03 PM. |
#37
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Re: Problem with clutch disengaging
I'm getting ready to do mine and came across all this info. 305 E SM420. I have a fully functioning clutch at time of disassembly. I inspected my Borg and Beck style, it is 10.5", original flywheel. Everything was fully operational without complaints. Only reason I'm changing out was I noticed the Throw out bearing had worn grooves in the in the pressure plate fork levers. The disc has wear on it too. The plan is to take my flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc and throw out to Southside Brake for rebuilding.
Info to take away from here: 1) Pilot bearing which is retained in the flywheel is pressed flush with the flywheel surface. 2) Existing clutch disc springs and 10 groove snout is flush with the friction material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc. Any protrusion here will cause interference and improper clutch function (disengagement issues) will ensue. 3) throw out bearing is around 1.3" in width. 4) My clutch adjustment is a manual bell crank style and the pushrod is retained in the outer position of the clutch fork.
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Steve Stock Gig Harbor, Wa 1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, SM420 Finished Cab off restoration 1964 GMC 1000 305 V6, SM 420 Restoration is now started, still looking for an oldsmobile style power steering pump |
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