5 speed/o.d. swap comparisons - WC/S10 T5 hybrid, NV4500, A833 MY6, Tremec 3550 Mustang

[Chuck78]

More info to spot AX5 vs AX15. Foremost, the AX15 will be behind 4.0L/4.2L Jeeps and the AX5 behind the small 4cyl's. AX15's came in some Dakota 4cyl 2.5L(?) engines but with a 14 spline input, the 3.9L etc V6 Dakotas in the years outlined on the 1st page had 10 spline AX15's that we need.

More info that I just dug up:
AX-5 Hex fill plug is often on the passengers side, cast iron mid plate
AX-15 Hex fill plug is always on the drivers side, aluminum mid plate



Here are the transmission tag #'s to help you too.
On the AX-5 & AX-15 there is a silver tag with green printing on the top of the tranny near the shift tower.
On the weak Jeep Peugeot I *think* the ID tag is riveted to the passengers side of the tranny.

53005360 AX15 1989-91
53005385 AX15 1989-91
53005386 AX15 1989-91
53007862 AX15 1992
53007863 AX15 1992-93
53007864 AX15 1992-93
53009528 AX15 1992-93
53009529 AX15 1992-93
53009530 AX15 1992-93
52108010 AX15 1993
53009526 AX15 1992-96
52108036 AX15 1994-96
52108047 AX15 1994-96
52108048 AX15 1994-96
52108050 AX15 1994-96
52109035 AX15 1994-96
52108465 AX15 1996
52107811 AX15 1997
52107812 AX15 1997
52108532 AX15 1997

52108022 AX5 1992-94
52108045 AX5 1994-96
52108046 AX5 1994-96
52108049 AX5 1994-96
52108121 AX5 1995
52109021 AX5 1994-96
53001190 AX5 1985
53001566 AX5 1984
53001671 AX5 1985
53002265 AX5 1985
53003024 AX5 1987-88
53003385 AX5 1986
53003386 AX5 1986
53003387 AX5 1986
53003388 AX5 1986-88
53004224 AX5 1987-88
53004358 AX5 1987
53004359 AX5 1987-88
53006169 AX5 1989-93
53006170 AX5 1989-91
53006173 AX5 1989-93
53006174 AX5 1989-91
53006176 AX5 1989-93

53002035 BA/10 1987
53002838 BA/10 1987
53003234 BA/10 1987
53005248 BA/10 1988
53005251 BA/10 1988
53005252 BA/10 1988
53005451 BA/10 1989
53005453 BA/10 1989
53005454 BA/10 1989

[Chuck78]

Cast iron intermediate plate = AX-5





Aluminum intermediate plate = AX-15

[Chuck78]

Here's more AX15/AR5/MA5/R15# info, if you can sort out the Supra and 4x4 info:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...0128?_k=qjgisg

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...7449?_k=qjgisg

[Dazzoman]

Originally Posted by Chuck78

Well it seems as if the A833 MY6 may be a better consideration after all. After researching a bit, it seems as if the only real difference between the standard A833 & the units they put behind 426 hemi's & 440 six packs was going to a 17t input shaft from a 23 if I recall that # correctly.

I read a review of a guy testing the waters on a $75 junkyard unit to see how tough it was. He put it in a 4000lb V8 Impala or Chevelle, did some drag launches that failed to hook up the tires (3.09 1st gear = mega torque / no traction), so he did the ultimate test that would always be sure to blow up several Muncie's he's had, holding the gas to the floor when shifting, resulting in 5000rpm shifts and chirping the tires in every gear, and the A833 MY6 survived quite well!

Also, this seems to be the same length as a Muncie, which if meant the same length as the Saginaw I have in mine, then I wouldn't have to have the drive shaft shortened whatsoever.

Only big drawback is that hard parts are tough to come by, only used... so running one of these for the long term would probably mean I would need to be scavenging junkyards to pull several of them to have gears/shafts parts available...

I gotta tell ya , I LOVE the MY6 NP440 tranny as I have it behind an 292 in my 66 GMC 3/4 ton and Im gonna put an 350 in it this season . BUT MAKE SURE you decide whether you want that one available in Aluminum case or Iron case . I decide to go w Iron because of something to do w/ the input shaft or something . But the Aluminum one can be fixed by putting an sleeve in it and it will be tough as heck . Here is a pic s

[Dazzoman]

Chuck , here s a pic of my NP440 tranny
Dazzoman

[Chuck78]

Fast forward 2.5 years, I still have this 351C engine on the stand in the garage, and the AX15 Dodge V6 Magnum transmission waiting... Probably getting ready to order this Novak adapter plate soon. I think I have a blown head gasket on the 305D after having it over heat twice on me in recent years (once due to a hole rusted through a steel freeze plug in the back of the head) and having the radiator plugged up after I let the engine sit completely drained out of antifreeze for a day or two and let all of the sludge inside dry up, later to be loosened up and start floating around and plug up my aftermarket aluminum TIG welding radiator...
Plus the synchros for 2nd gear in this Saginaw 4-speed are pretty worn out!

Also looking to get some body patch panels to patch a few areas down low that have develop some rust bubbles... As well as the front cab support area brackets.
Maybe even a 73-91 Suburban disc brake front crossmember will go in at the same time, as my worn-out $450 ball joints are a big concern! Pulling a 4x8 trailer full of motorcycles and parts, as wellas hauling building materials, are both critical uses for my GMC...

I also must admit that I got another HUGE distraction, a 1988 Suzuki Samurai... I'm trying to turn this into a good fuel economy semi daily driver and off-road toy, as my 1982 VW Rabbit diesel pickup truck is getting a bit Rusty and I am not looking forward to trying to fabricate or source from across the ocean all of the unibody repair panels that I would need to do it right...
so instead I am looking at putting a mechanical pump from a Land Rover 300tdi engine onto a VW ALH 1.9TDI engine, and adding a Toyota V6 transmission and either a Land Cruiser transfer case or Jeep ax15 rear half transmission case since they are of the same family, and adapter to an old school Jeep/IH Scout Dana 18 transfer case, since this Samurai has a full floater Toyota custom arear axle housing offset for the Samurai rear end passenger side drop, so that the front and rear differentials are both in-line, like a select few elite off-road machines like the old school Jeeps 1971 and older, most Toyota Land Cruisers, Land Rover Defenders, International Scouts, Samurai's etc...
Shooting for 34-36mpg on 31" tires, and decent pulling power out of the little miniature powerhaus VW TDI engines, which are extremely efficient at what they do and take extremely well to modifications as simple as adding more boost fuel... Without having too much effect on decreasing the fuel economy.
aftermarket aluminum body tub in the Canadian long-wheelbase version would be the long-term plan for the ultimate daily driver.
The GMC will be used for the heavier hauling, although the 1.9L TDI engine in a little Samurai could easily be tweaked to make the same power as the 351 V6... The big truck will be better handling with a load and will be a little more stout
Also got severely distracted the last few years riding dirt bikes in Wayne National Forest in other great areas at the edge of the Appalachians...

The GMC is ready to see the light of day again in a more glorious form than I have been driving it in...

[Caseyjones]

I've been working on swapping an AX15 with a Novak adapter on to my 305E and I've run into a predicament, and wondering if you'd been able to fit the transmission to the engine yet...

It's my understanding that the GMC bellhousing can't be removed without removing the flywheel. Unfortunately the Novak adapter is designed to be mounted to the bellhousing with the bolt heads inside the bellhousing, requiring that the bellhousing and trans are mounted to the engine as a unit. The front of the AX15 transmission case partially covers the upper trans-to-bellhousing holes on the adapter.
I have considered using a die grinder to clearance the transmission case for socket head cap screws. One notch would get very close to one of the dowel pins that locates the trans to the adapter, but there shouldn't be any potential for breaking through the case.
Before I carve up my transmission I thought I'd check in here to see if I'm thinking about this correctly and if anyone else has solved this another way...

[Caseyjones]

Well, I took the plunge:


I followed my plan of making clearance for the socket head cap screws on the upper mount locations. I had to grind back on the ribs a bit to make clearance for both the bolt and the hex socket that I used to tighten down the bolts. Still seems like there is plenty of meat on the case, and I didn't get too close to any of bolts that hold the adapter to the transmission. I also had to drill out the threads in the upper holes on the Novak adapter.


I used the stock GMC clutch, pilot bearing and throwout bearing and it all appears to be functioning properly. Driveshaft is being built so haven't driven it yet. The original Comanche shifter looks like it will hit the seat so I'm going to have to do something different with that.

[Caseyjones]

Follow up information:
1) Snagged a shifter and shift tower from a Dakota. You have to get the entire assembly - the pivot points are different distances apart on the different shifters so you can't just put a Comanche shift cane into a Dakota shifter housing, etc. The Dakota shifter still ends up in the seat. I used a torch to heat and bend the shifter arm. The Dakota shifter is threaded, so might be easier to adapt a different lever later.

2) Plan to buy a shifter rebuild kit - the bushings were gone (literally disintegrated) in both the Dakota and the original Comanche shifters. It's super-easy to replace them. I also made a new gasket to seal the tower to the transmission case.

3) Changed to a 1-piece driveshaft using the slip yoke I referenced earlier in the thread and it worked out great. Stock clutch is holding up and works well so far.

4) Driving impressions have been few, but overall the transmission seems to be a decent match to the engine and the 3:73 gears / 29" tall tires on my truck. I still have a lot of tuning and refining to do on the truck so will report back if I find anything else worth mentioning.

[63gmc4x4]

I installed a t5 from a 89 s10 and 89 astro van clutch a few months back , and i have about 500 miles on it no trouble , and great crusing speeds, easy swap