"Papa Smurf" - 1966 GMC 1500 Custom

[James]

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg

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Didn't see your post until now. I'll add that to my list of things to try next; priority 1. You're probably right. I have no idea how I'm going to activate it again, but I'll figure something out.

If the other bolts are already removed, I would try and use a long rod and slip it in the clutch disc hub all the way through and into the pilot bearing. Then see if the disc can be moved away from the bolt, it might move enough to remove the remaining bolts.

[LordNatedawg]

Originally Posted by James

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If the other bolts are already removed, I would try and use a long rod and slip it in the clutch disc hub all the way through and into the pilot bearing. Then see if the disc can be moved away from the bolt, it might move enough to remove the remaining bolts.

That worked to get one of the troublesome bolts out. For the last one, I just pried the pressure plate away from the flywheel, yanked out the clutch, and then had enough clearance to remove the bolt. The pressure plate is not salvageable. Not because I damaged it, though. It is (was) new, but it is badly grooved and burnt. The clutch plate itself doesn't have much meat on it. Looks like it got burned up. Not a problem though. Clutch kits are easy to source.

Another update: Finally got around to relocating my idler arm. Replaced to old idler arm that was on the bracket first. Got it torqued to the drag link, got the drag link torqued to the steering box. Then I got out my level and began measuring. Got the drag link level with the crossmember and got it straight. Drilled two holes and bolted it in. I can turn the wheel lock-to-lock without the drag link rubbing on the crossmember. Once that was done, finished up with some new tie rods and fresh grease.

Also want to share that I got my hands on the "Custom" badges. I managed to get two of them from AspenAutoAZ. The studs are broken off the back, but I think I can repair them.

[WDShaffer]

Or you can use 3/32" thick double-stick tape, trimmed to fit the profile...not quite as much work as creating locator studs for pot metal.

[LordNatedawg]

No pictures today. Just another update.

Finally bought a belt for the power steering system. Also changed the brackets for my generator so the belt would be on the second (outer) pulley groove. The power steering and generator are now independent of each other. If a belt snaps, I'll lose either power steering or the generator. Nothing else. I do have plans to eventually convert to an internally regulated alternator. I have the parts, but not the motivation. Lol.

Also bled the power steering. It was not a clean process. It hiccuped while I was doing it and made a lovely puddle of oil on the crossmember... But, at least I can turn the wheel with one hand now. I'll monitor the fittings over the next few days to make sure I don't have any leaks. So far though, everything looks good.

Also bled my cooling system, since I didn't do it after installing the new heater core. That also made a big mess. In the past when I've bled cooling systems, sometimes I'd get small splashes of fluid or a slight mist coming out of the filler neck. Not on Papa Smurf. Coolant decided to come out like a geyser when the thermostat opened. Made a lovely mess, but the process was successful in the end.

Lastly, I dropped quite a bit of money on parts to rebuild the rear brakes on the Dana 60. Parts were a little difficult to find at first, but I think I got all I need. Once all the parts arrive I will post a tutorial and "shopping list" for the Dana 60 to help out anyone else looking for parts. Doing new drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, bearings, and hardware. Also going to modify my hubs to accept the 9/16" wheel studs instead of the OEM 1/2" studs. I don't like running with 2 different sets of lugnuts on front and back.

Before the brakes get done, I want to fix the backfiring issue on Papa Smurf. Pretty sure it's being caused by the large exhaust leak from untorqued nuts at the flange. Not gonna lie, the popping when I rev the engine sounds kinda cool. The reason behind the popping is not as cool though.

[LordNatedawg]

Originally Posted by LordNatedawg

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Also going to modify my hubs to accept the 9/16" wheel studs instead of the OEM 1/2" studs. I don't like running with 2 different sets of lugnuts on front and back.

Hm. Knocked out a rear stud and measured it. It measures 9/16" already. Knocked out a stud from the old front end, it measure 1/2". Something isn't adding up. I have good reason to believe that the front was swapped out before I bought it, but the rear looks like it hasn't been moved. Did some GMC Customs come with 9/16" wheel studs? I thought that GM didn't start using that size until 1971-1972. All the research I've done suggests that it should be 1/2".

It is entirely possible that the PO used a Dana 60 out of a different truck, or different hubs were used after it was rebuilt in Minnesota. But it is also possible that my "one year only" truck came with 9/16" studs all around, and the front end swap changed it to 1/2". I'm at a loss. This is a whole new can of worms.

I should be happy that I don't have to drill my hubs. But I don't trust some of the things that the PO did. You've seen some of the damage already. Want to see some more? At least one rear drum is missing the parking brake lever and has all wrong springs. Glad that I was already planning on replacing the whole assembly. Haven't checked the other side yet. I suspect the parking brake works on the other side though, because I can't rotate the wheels with the brake on.

[LordNatedawg]

I think I figured out the "mystery hubs". I measured and looked up the wheel studs. According to auto-part websites, the only vehicle that these studs fit is a Jeep J20 (1974-1987). I either have the hubs for a J20, or an entire axle. Hard to tell because the casting marks on the axle tube are illegible. Luckily the brake parts are the same either way.

Speaking of brake parts: I installed the last big piece of brake line today. One long piece of 1/4" line that runs from the master cylinder, behind the engine, down the frame, and to the rear axle. It was a pain in the butt to install, but it's done. 1/4" line doesn't bend nearly as smoothly as 3/16". Also, I didn't bother jacking my truck up. I opted to crawl around underneath with very little ground clearance and repeatedly hit my head on the auxiliary fuel tanks. Probably would've been easier if I had more room to work with, but hindsight is 20/20.

The last 2 pieces of brake line will get installed when I finish the brake rebuild. The rebuild will either happen late this week or early next week. I'm still waiting on a few parts. Once that is done, just need to tweak a few small things and I'll have a functioning truck.

[LordNatedawg]

Not surprising, but I hit another obstacle. I can't do the brake rebuild until I track down the parking brake levers (actuating levers). I'm missing both, and no parts supplier seems to carry them.

It's part #9 in the photo. Looks like a boomerang. Second pic is Dorman HW2553. Supposedly that kit comes with the lever, but my hopes aren't high. I ordered it and it should be here in a few days. Already ordered a similar kit from Crown Automotive. They had a picture showing the lever I needed, but the kit arrived without it.

More info: Dana 60 rear axle, 12" x 2.5" brakes.

[WDShaffer]

you could clean up and re-use the existing one...I think I see it in the previous photos...maybe?

[LordNatedawg]

Originally Posted by WDShaffer

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you could clean up and re-use the existing one...I think I see it in the previous photos...maybe?

Unfortunately not. They're missing from both sides. On the bright side, the Dorman kit did come with one (right side). I'm still struggling to track down the other side. The only leads I have are that these levers were used in Chevy and GMC in the 60s and early 70s. They were used in the Jeep J20. They were also used in some Cadillac and Oldsmobile in 50s to 80s (I could be wrong on the early end of those date). So they aren't just limited in usage to trucks.

I'm monitoring my local junkyard. Hopefully one of these vehicles will pop up soon. Otherwise I might be able to take the lever I have to a metal fabrication shop. Maybe they can mirror and reproduce it.

[LordNatedawg]

Well. I found a precision sheet metal fabrication shop. They were able to reproduce the parking brake lever I needed. It took a month for them to so, but it's finally done. The shop I went to typically only serves bulk orders for businesses. The owner was very kind to make an exception for me, so long as I paid a "single item fee".

Not a single vehicle with compatible brake parts appeared in my local junkyard during the month of waiting. So the only way I can see getting these levers is to get lucky at the junkyard, buy from someone scrapping a Dana 60, or order the Dorman kit and have a shop mirror the lever for the other side.

I have to finish up a few other vehicles that I'm working on for family members. They noticed that my mechanical skills were not being used and thought it'd be a good idea to give me something to do. Once I'm finished with those, I will continue with Papa Smurf. One setback at a time, we will get him back on the road.