'65 3/4 305V6 fleetside rebuild

[ronn]

I know the existing wire is original and may need replacing given wear over time... any specific place to get that? What would i be looking for by name?

[ronn]

Well its a slow process, got the engine started but its not pulling fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is next. may replace the sending unit as i found it has a 30ohm stamped on it despite ordering a 90 (trust but verify).

Anyway, engine sounds good... just got to get the fuel to flow!

[jagarra]

A couple of places to check for fuel blockage. I have had to pull the fuel filter, bracket and all to clean it out completely to insure fuel could get that far. I then left the line going to the fuel pump unhooked at the filter. I placed a funnel with a short piece of hose on the on the other end where it hooked into the fuel pump and filled the funnel with Stabil. It took a couple of days but pretty soon that varnish build up in the steel line was dissolved. I could pore Stabil in the line and it would run out quickly.
Also there is a rubber line going from the pick up from the tank going to the fuel filter, mine was blocked solid, (low point) so replacing that was necessary.

[ronn]

yes, we blew out the lines, replaced hoses and filter completely. We siphoned fuel from filter to tank and tank to filter. the only thing left must be the pump imo... i hope!

[ronn]

So truck runs, only when jump started. Once turned off, it wont give any indication of turning over after a few minutes.
Jump start test for alternator: jumped, started then disconnected positive cable, no problems, engine continued to run, I am told this Indictates alternator is charging battery.

Any suggestions on what to replace next?

[James]

Originally Posted by ronn

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So truck runs, only when jump started. Once turned off, it wont give any indication of turning over after a few minutes.
Jump start test for alternator: jumped, started then disconnected positive cable, no problems, engine continued to run, I am told this Indictates alternator is charging battery.

Any suggestions on what to replace next?

Most of the problems I have encounter over the year on many different cars and truck is bad connections. With our 50+ year truck this is common.

If you hear no clicking of the starter when the key is in start then it time to use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage and battery circuits.

The voltage on the battery posts (not at the clamps) should be over 12 volts just sitting there with nothing turn on, do this first before you turn the key or anything else on. If it is under 12 volts disconnect the battery post clamps and charge the battery on the posts. This will give you a good opportunity to check the posts/clamps for cleanliness. Also if you see anything with a green color on the bare copper wire that indicate corrosion (and a bad connection) and the wire should be cut back until there is no green on the wire. You might have to extend the wire using the same gauge wire so it can be reconnected.

With a fully charge battery, turn on your headlights and measure the voltage on the post. It should be just over 12 volts. If it is below 12 volt the battery is either bad or it need to be charge (has a very low state of charge or with a fully charge battery it indicate the battery is bad).

If it still just over 12 volts you need to check the battery circuit with the headlights on and the key off for the following tests.

Note:
With every electrical troubleshooting, use a wire diagram to know where the wire are connected at and their wire color. Also going through a multi pins connector make sure all connection are clean and not discolored (which indicate a bad connection). That might also fix other issues that you have not gotten to yet.

Test 1
Keep the voltmeter negative lead on the battery post and place the positive voltmeter lead on the engine block. There should indicate less than .5 volts, the lower the better. If more than .5 volts then you need to disassemble and clean each connections between the battery and the engine block. Also look for wire terminal that has become discolored, this indicate a bad connection within the connector (connector will need to be replaced). If the problem is not on the negative side then check the positive side.

Test 2
Place the voltmeter positive lead on the battery post and place the negative voltmeter lead on the fuse block (find a connection that is hot all the time with the key off). There should indicate less than .5 volts, the lower the better. If more than .5 volts then you need to disassemble and clean each connections between the battery and the fuse block.

The test you performed is not really that valid. It only means the alternator is putting out enough voltage and current for the ignition circuit. However using a voltmeter you should have approx. 14 VDC at the battery with the engine running at a fast idle on a fully charge battery (on a low battery it might be indicating around 13 volts).

With a fully charge battery, the battery voltage should never drop below 9 volts while cranking the engine (if it does that indicate a weak battery).

This should take care of your cranking issue. This same technique can be applied to other circuits that is not operating properly (i.e. vent blower motor, tail lights, and etc).

[FetchMeAPepsi]

You didn't mention that the fuel issue was fixed with a new pump so others that see your thread know you got it handled

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(If you did, I missed it with my old eyes)

James nailed it there for the restarts. You can also remove the alternator (2 bolts) and take it down to OReillys and they'll test it for free. Same with the battery. That way you know you've got a good pair of juice makers to start with.

Also, you HAVE to gas the engine for 5-10 seconds to bring the RPMs up after starting to put the alternator in CHARGE mode on some alternators. Otherwise they're just spinning up minimal juice to the system.

[ronn]

UPDATE: Good, bad, uuugh-ly

Good: got the drive side wheel taken apart, repacking wheel bearings, got new brake shoes and springs, changing out hydraulic line too.

bad: replacement parts for brakes were incorrect, wait for new parts (small town delays).

uuugh-ly: started engine again and newly rebuilt carb that ran perfect 3wks before looked like a fountain of gasoline from same place as before... the accelerator pump rod hole. Any suggestions other than another rebuild of carb?

[ronn]

Back in the repair mode after a longer than expected winter-over. Repairs are so slow due to having it stored 300 miles away from me but, i'm anticipating a road test this July. Freedom!
Parts are ordered for lenses and wiring, need a little insight on refurbishing the dash lights, any experiences out there to share?

[Funky61]

Here's a great thread by FetchMeAPepsi



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