1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy)

[turbobill]

Originally Posted by Cayoterun

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How is that rocker panel attached? Is it bolted on, or pretty easy to get off without damage? Let me know, and I'll check an old cab I have. I'll have to roll this cab over with the tractor to see this one.
Let me know.

The rocker panel is spot welded to the truck. To remove a good one, or replace one properly will require door and fender removal. It is much easier to buy a replacement panel than fool with one still attached to a parts truck.

[Cayoterun]

Thanks.
Another example of a great site, and helpful people.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by turbobill

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The rocker panel is spot welded to the truck. To remove a good one, or replace one properly will require door and fender removal. It is much easier to buy a replacement panel than fool with one still attached to a parts truck.

Yep, Thanks turbobill! I confirmed it today when I took Cecilia out and adjusted the door. I had to bang the rocker panel down with some serious UMPH

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The new door was rubbing at the bottom and the Powder Puff couldn't open it by herself.

It's on and rolling like a pro now!



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I also pulled my plugs out and re-checked their gapping. Then I gapped them 0.05 over spec to get more fire in the cylinder. She didn't seem to mind that at all. She was more responsive on the throttle like a Godzilla on Tokyo.

So after that little break (sit down work) I thought I'd try to chase down the GEN light problem. It's staying on now. I had my alternator checked and the guys at Autozone said it was fine. I re-hooked it back up and it drove OK, but it's not really charging the battery.

I put a voltmeter on it and here's what it said.



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I checked it at the back of the alternator too (red alt line, neg battery line)



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The same, 12.60 v. It should have been 13.8 or more.

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I had burger duty so I had to button it up after that. Guess I'll be picking up an alternator.

Happy Memorial weekend to everyone, and thanks to those that served or have family serving. Without you we wouldn't have the freedoms we take for granted every day.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Here's a little tip for adjusting your doors. After you get your hinge on the truck, tighten just one of the over/under bolts on each hinge until it's barely snug. Then shut the door. Open it gently and tighten it a little more. Shut it again. Repeat until you get the bolt all the way in. You should then be able to tighten the remaining bolts and have it stay lined up.

Anyway, that's what worked for me. I did start it by jacking it up on a wooden block so it didn't fall over, twist, and konk me on the head.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I pulled off my alternator today and checked it's model number. It doesn't have one. All it says is "Made in the USA".

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I looked on Jolly's site and it says Delco 12SI was a popular model to put on the 305V6 so I searched out the internals of the 12SI. It didn't match. So I took it apart and looked at the innards. The only number I could find was on the rectifier. I didn't know what a rectifier was when I started, but research showed it to be this



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That rectifier only fits in a handful of alternators. The one that looked most like mine was a 120 amp 17SI. So we'll be working off of the assumption that this is a 17SI with a double pulley.



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I grabbed another junky old towel. This time a white one with threadbare spots and strings coming out of the ends. I couldn't use the green towel. This alternator is racist.

So first I flipped it over. There are four screw/bolt fasteners on this side. You can get them off with a nut driver....



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With an assistant because they're really in there...



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Now that the four screws are out, take a look at the alternator back. You need to remember the plug's position in relation to the top screw hole so you can reassemble it exactly as it was. YOURS MIGHT NOT LOOK LIKE MINE.



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With the screw/bolty things out you can now very gently pull the back off of the alternator. Like cracking an egg!



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When you take them apart you'll hear a SPROING! sound as the brushes pop free from their guides. Don't worry. They're tethered by a wire.



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Now reach in with your nut driver and release these three nuts that tie the wires wound around the outside to the innards.



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Then you can free up the winding part. It probably won't come out easy, you'll have to rock it back and forth a bit but be careful! You don't want to mess it up.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Ok thats done. What a mess. Dig down inside the shell more now and unscrew the three bolts holding the regulator on.



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It just pops right out once it's loose. Now you can push the "brushes" back in and out again in their slots with the springs. Yeah, you know you wanna. Now do it and say to yourself "Sproing!". Go ahead and get that out of your system.



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Now get your air hose or can of compressed air and blow the dirt out of your system a little.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I forgot to mention "Tools you will need".

You'll need:

7/16 Nut driver
11/32 Nut driver
5/16 Nut driver
1/4 Nut driver
Flathead screwdriver for prying and banging
Hammer
A rebuild kit from Ebay or wherever
A toothpick or paperclip if your kit doesn't include something similar

(Jeannie if you notice this would you move it to my first post on pulling the alternator? I can't edit it anymore)


Now moving forward you'll need to remove the rectifier. It has three bolts on it and one nut. It also has a little black boxy thing shown here on it. Don't lose that, you won't get a new one in your kit if it's like mine!



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After removing the three bolts you'll remove the one nut. It is the other side of the terminal you connect to a wire in your truck. It might fall out of the back when you take it off. If it does you'll probably never see it again.



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Now for the bearings. My kit came with bearings for both the front and the back. I read online about people just popping them out with a screwdriver easy peasy.



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Mine didn't. I ended up digging all of the little bearings and an unbelievable amount of grease out of it, ripping it to shreds. That left the case the bearings were in. At the time I didn't know you could bang on the back of it with a punch and just push it on through. You should do that instead of what I did. Or you can take it to a mechanic and he can use a press to push the bearing and sleeve out.
If you're hardheaded like me you can probably get it out yourself. But it's not easy.

In learning how to handle this I hit it with a hammer, banged on it with punches, pried on it with stuff, and generally buggared it up really well.



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I spent 2 hours banging on this thing trying to get it out.

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I questioned whether or not it COULD come out. If I had been a swearing man I would have called it and it's creators everything I could think of. Instead I just said, "Dang it!" alot and made frowny faces. Finally I grabbed a screwdriver and placed it on the very tiny seam of the sleeve and the housing. It's VERY tiny.

I got lucky and the screwdriver caught.

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I carried on and banged it straight through.



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It popped this thing out on my toes.



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SUCCESS!!!!!!

Ok get your rebuild kit. Mine came in looking like this from Ebay.



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Unpacked:



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Grab your bearings for the back and get 'em snugged up.



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Now bang 'em in very gently until you get it flush with the housing. Don't get it crooked or you'll be buying a new set.



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Now put this blurry little bolt in. Mine came in my kit so I got to use a brand new one. New stuff makes me happy.



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Now drop in your new rectal fire (ha ha ha).



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Then put your bolts in the rectifier. Don't forget that little black boxy thing!



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Now drop in your regulator (the white thing on the bottom of the pic).



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If you'll notice in the above pic I damaged the center fin on the housing in front of the rectifier. This was done when I was trying everything in my arsenal against that stupid bearing. Be careful where you pry...

Get your brushes now. Mine were missing until I looked in the holes. Duh. I dug them out and put the springs in the slots. Then I put it on top of the regulator.



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Put your three prong thingy on after that (metal part with black box in the middle, it bolts to the three prongs on the rectifier).



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Put this little caterpillar looking thing on last. My kit didn't come with a new one so I hope it's working.



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Now poke your paperclip, toothpick, or metal thingy through the back to hold the brushes in.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Flip it back over and hold the brushes in against the springs so you can poke the toothpick-y thing through the holes and keep them locked inside.



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Now grab your big wire wrappy part and gently put it back on. It looks like a bunch of copper spaghetti that someone dropped in a blender. It might have holes that go by each screw port to help you see which side goes where. Also there's those three wires. They make good markers too.

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Tighten down these three nuts. One thing I can't abide is a fat yellow chicken.

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And loose nuts.



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Settle the top portion back down into it's new bearing home taking care to put the upper bolt hole in the right location compared to the two prong plug outlet.



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Run the bolts in



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Then remove the toothpick thingy from the back to set the brushes free and give it a spin to see if it spins! If you did it all right it should spin pretty freely.

Mine didn't. Like most everything I do I had to do it twice.



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I tried to remove the front nut to get the front bearing replaced and had an awful time so I didn't replace it. You should if you can. When I tried I ended up marring the spinny teeth things as you can see above. It caught on the magnets inside the spaghetti thing. That was bad. I ended up filing it down so that it cleared again.



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This means that it's now lighter on that side and will be rougher on the bearings by a little bit. So I've probably got a new alternator in my future after all, but for now it works.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Today I spent over 2 hours monkeying around with an electrical gremlin. I chased the brown wire from the alternator to the idiot light and found that if the plug is out by just a hair it won't work. Really, a hair's width. Sensitive little fellow.

Then the parts fairy showed up cleverly disguised as a Fedex driver. Notice the wings.



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She delivered my Slick Sand, my paint sprayer, my extra tips, durablocks and sandpaper, taping paper, tape, a water/oil filter for the air line, and some inner panel rustproofer. I love getting presents!



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And this little gizmo. It's a creeper that folds up into a chair that rolls. It's awesome!



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Maybe one day they'll let me try it...



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That was about it for today. Oh, and that battery finally bit the dust. For now Cecilia's running off of my jumpbox.


Oh wait, I did something else too. You see this lil' critter sitting next to my dead battery? It's a little overflow tank I picked up for $22 bucks on Amazon. It goes to a 1992 Toyota Camry and it fits perfectly in the empty spot beside the battery here. I do need to work on the hose routing a bit, but I'm very pleased with this little gem. Cheap, does the job, and fits snug without any drilling or screwing.



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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Today it was 98 freaking degrees outside. I worked on some water play for the kids then when they were enjoying a cooling off they'll probably remember forever, I sneaked 100 ft over to Cecilia and got to work on her leaky radiator.

For a while now I've been bugged by her steaming up when she gets hot. She gets up to normal operating temperature then out of the top right hand side (driver's side) she'll shoot steam out onto the motor. It's cost me around $10.00 in distilled water jugs so far to refill her.

If you've followed along you'll know that I still have to drive her from time to time so I grabbed a very handy little coolant overflow tank that fit perfectly on the other side of the battery. This kept her cool while I did my necessaries until I could get her pulled apart and get parts in for fixing her.

So I go to work pulling her radiator out. It's a pretty easy and straightforward process. And I was surprised by how light the radiator was. It was probably 50 lbs or so I'd guess. Heavy but not too bad.

Tools you will need:
Flathead screwdriver
Wrenches to disconnect the battery
9/16 socket wrench and one small extension
Some carburetor cleaning dip
Some 50/50 silver solder
A propane torch
A wire brush or wire wheel for your drill


The first thing I did was disconnect the battery. That's because I'd be working right around the engine fan and I sure didn't want to lose an arm. My dad had stories about guys that had been working on cars and a helpful kid or a mistaken wire turned the engine over and broke their arms off. I don't know if the stories are true, but I'm attached to my appendages.



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Then I took loose the top hose. There's just one screw clamp on it. This gets it out of the way in case things go sideways down in the bottom hose we're working on.



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Remember with these you don't remove them, you just loosen them so they'll slide down the hose a bit.



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Then give the ol' hose a wiggle and a twist. And POP! Off she comes. Notice the rust.



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Then I unscrewed the bottom hose. It's wayyy down on the bottom. It takes a flathead screwdriver too.



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When you get the bottom hose loose make sure to remove it all the way from the radiator or it'll hang you up when you go to pick the radiator up and out.



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When you take the bottom hose off it'll spring forth with a green rain. REMEMBER for those of you that have shop dogs or cats that this stuff is POISONOUS and it will KILL THEM. Plus it tastes sweet so they love it and over indulge. Water it down with the hose if you don't want to be burying fluffy tomorrow. Or collect it.
I actually was going to clamp off the hose before taking it off but it has a spring inside the hose to keep it from collapsing. It won't clamp.



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