1964 GMC 1000 Fleetside

[bigblockv6]

There is no spin on adapter but there is a spin on aluminum housing that was introduced in 1966. It was used on 305 through 351 engines as well as the 1973-74 379 V6.

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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While you are at it you should check the PVC valve. That's really why your engine is pressurizing. It needs vacuum to pull through the breather. While your at it put some new valve cover gaskets in. Glue them to the covers with black rtv. This lets you pull the covers with ease. Then check the valve lash hot. .012 intake, .018 exhaust. This is a big problem I have found with these old boys, to little lash. Finally find someone with a dwell meter and a vacuum guage and set the timing. I bet there is some old timer in northern Alabama with these tools and the know his to use them. Lastly when ever I think of the rural south I think of the movie deliverance. I bet you think of my neck of the woods and think randy weaver and the order. It's a draw. But we have better old rigs. Barry

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Went ahead and replaced those PCV valves just in case since they are cheap. So a clean Crankcase Ventilation Filter housing with new paper element and new PCV valves. New gaskets on the valley pan and valve covers and intake manifold, and added the missing gasket on the distributor. Also finished the carb setup using Fetch's build thread as a guide. She is idling good, with a hesitation issue mentioned somewhere above, so I won't rehash that. So far no oil leaks from those areas...but I have not driven it yet; just let it idle.

A former neighbor of mine stopped by who knows a whole lot more about cars/trucks than I do. While listening to it run, he also suggested adjusting the valve lash. I'm going to let him assist me with that so I don't screw up anything, having never done it. It sounds easy enough after looking it up and listening to what he said, but I have been known to turn easy jobs into very difficult, incredibly long ones.

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I have a short video of the "sounds" of the valves and hesitation but, I don't see many folks posting vids on here.

[aphaynes]

30 second video. Noisy valves and hesitation.
See if this works...



...if not, here is the link.

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[BarryGMC]

Get the valves set first. Then we will see how it runs. And proceed from there. Barry

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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Get the valves set first. Then we will see how it runs. And proceed from there. Barry

Planning to get on that tomorrow morning.

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[aphaynes]

Had a comedy of errors Saturday. Had a buddy coming over to guide me through valve lash adjustments. Fired up the truck before he got there to find that I had fuel dripping were the fuel filter connects to the carb. Pulled the fitting between the two, put some sealer on the threads and reinstalled. Feared I may have something causing issues in the float bowl area, so I opened up the carb again and inspected. The needle connected to the float seemed to be sticking. Had to actually back out the fitting the needle goes into to get it to move freely. ???
Got it all back together. Fired it back up and the line was not leaking...but...yes, that ugly but again...

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The top gasket on the carb was letting out fuel. Really confused now... I knew I needed to open it back up to see what was happening with the float and the accelerator pump rod, but my help for valve lash had arrived.

So, while placing a few rags to catch leaking fuel, we went ahead and proceeded with adjustments. I have spark plugs and wires on the way, but we pulled the ones that were in there to find they were quite ugly black and very wide in gap. Went ahead and adjusted them according to the manual, just to make do with them until the new ones get here. A while later, we had all valves dialed in to the 0.012H and 0.018H as recommended by Barry and 1965 Motor's Truck Manual I picked up off ebay.


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My helper noticed my heater unit had beeen bypassed...next thing I know we have that off the truck and torn apart. Simple low pressure test with the garden hose did not reveal any leaks in the core, but I am sure I need to have that tested better. We did learn the blower motor is completely froze up, but at least the squirrel cage is still in good shape. So some more to add to my to do list and my wish list.

After my help left, I opened the carb...again!

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The float appeared to be ok, not sticking. When I removed the accelerator pump rod, I decided to take a peak down in the cylinder it sits in to see what that little ball was up to. To my surprise it was gone!

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Where the heck did it go?!? I know it was in there when I initially rebuilt the carb. Surely it did not just fly out when I opened it earlier that day....did it? After deciding I was not going to solve that mystery, I knew I had a spare, so I put it in, reassembled and all was well with the carb once again.

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Also, on this third reassembly, I took note of some various measurements on the carb kit instructions I had not thrown away. The accelerator pump rod had more movement when pressing the accelerator than what was spec'd. So adjusted that. Not sure which part of this process fixed my hesitation when pressing the accelerator, but it now seems to be a non-issue.

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With no apparent oil leaks from the areas I had been working on the past few weeks, and no fuel leaks, we took a spin around the neighborhood. Got back and still no leaks!!

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It was not a long trip, but ran through the gears fine. Sunday, took a peek under the truck to see two small drops of oil on my cardboard. Could be left over oil from previous leaks. Won't know for sure until I clean all of the remaining old stuff off that remains from the major leaks when i got her home.

All in all, I am sure there is still a lot I need to check/test, but the past few weeks of part time working on this were fun, and she seems to be in better shape now than she was when I got her home, so I guess the learning experience is paying off.

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[aphaynes]

Plugs and wires arrived, in and indexed!

Next...not sure. Got blue smoke when she first cranks and black smoke on acceleration. Guess I need to make some adjustments for the black smoke. The blue I expect is beyond what I can do in my driveway if it is rings or something of that nature.

Off this Friday so I will take her to the court house to get her tag so I can enjoy driving her around a bit.

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[BarryGMC]

If the blue is worse when you first start it it's probably the valve guide seals. These engines use the same little o rings as Chevy small blocks. Every one is usually hard and cracked. It's kind of a pain but you can change them with the heads on. Good job on the motors manual. Those are handy. Barry

[aphaynes]

Originally Posted by BarryGMC

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If the blue is worse when you first start it it's probably the valve guide seals. These engines use the same little o rings as Chevy small blocks. Every one is usually hard and cracked. It's kind of a pain but you can change them with the heads on. Good job on the motors manual. Those are handy. Barry

Yep, it is blue when first cranked and fades away fairly quickly while idling. When reving it up black appears.

I wasn't sure how handy that book would be, but it seems to have a lot of good info in there in the GMC section.

[BarryGMC]

I am going to hijack your thread for a moment. I am a firm believer in obtaining as much info on repairing and maintaining our old rigs as possible. Repair and service manuals are the first place people should reference . Not the internet. Unless it's to find the books. To often we end up chasing modifications that are spread as gospel in the forums, when we should simply be maintaining and repairing and enjoying our trucks. These trucks were built to be reliable and simple. And if they are in reasonable condition are both. People are always amazed when they ride in an old rig of mine at how they operate. Yes a few have the morning blues or are a little cold blooded. And most are not what anyone would call restored. Heck today the boy and I hauled 24 sheets of 4 x12 1/2 rock to a job with the 65. But they are all safe and steady. Back to the books. Here is my oldest and surprisingly still relevant old guy.