Newbe 65 GMC

[Ccsmith]

Hey there. New to the forum and need advice on where to start. Had an old friend who had a 1965 GMC long wheelbase c10 which has sat for over 20 years outside. Ask him to let me know if he ever wanted to get rid of it to please call me anyway Im getting the truck. Has the 305e with 3 on colum shifter. Everything is there and the body appears pretty solid. Just some rust in front of doors on bottom rockers. And surface rust. Would like to just clean up first to see what i have to work with but what are opinions on trying to start the engine which hasnt started in 20 years? I have average knowledge at best about engines but want to learn more and make it a project with my son. Thanks for advice

[LEWISMATKIN]

first thing I would do is drain the fluids (oil, coolant, gear lube) and replace them with fresh fluids. Also, change the filters (oil, gas, air if equipped with a paper element, and the crankcase breather filter), tune the engine, clean out the gas tank, blow out the fuel lines, check brake fluid level, and so forth. If the engine is equipped with an oil-bath air cleaner, you can use some of the oil you drained out of the oil pan, mix it with k-1 kerosene (50/50 ratio), and you should be good to go. After the engine gets to operating temp., turn it off, remove the valve covers and set the valve lash clearances for both intake and exhaust valves. Intake valve lash is .012"H, exhaust lash is .018"H.

[LEWISMATKIN]

by the way, welcome to the group, ccsmith!!!!!!

[James]

Originally Posted by LEWISMATKIN

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first thing I would do is drain the fluids (oil, coolant, gear lube) and replace them with fresh fluids. Also, change the filters (oil, gas, air if equipped with a paper element, and the crankcase breather filter), tune the engine, clean out the gas tank, blow out the fuel lines, check brake fluid level, and so forth. If the engine is equipped with an oil-bath air cleaner, you can use some of the oil you drained out of the oil pan, mix it with k-1 kerosene (50/50 ratio), and you should be good to go. After the engine gets to operating temp., turn it off, remove the valve covers and set the valve lash clearances for both intake and exhaust valves. Intake valve lash is .012"H, exhaust lash is .018"H.

I agree with Lewis. All I can say is be sure to thoroughly clean the fuel system (including the fuel lines). If any of that old gas is in the system and you get the engine running. That fuel crud will cause the intake valves to stick, which will open the door to a big problems. This is what happen to a friend of mine 305 V6.

Being it been sitting for 20 a new fuel pump should be needed.

Welcome to the club.

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[Ccsmith]

Thanks yall. I plan on replacing fluids, fuel tank and lines, new plugs wires etc. before even starting to to try to crank it. I want to start wet sanding body to see about a patina finish but is that worth going through if not ready to clear coat? I think eventualy i will tear it down completely but i just wanna see if i can get it running and driving to enjoy a ride abefore complete teardown which will take years financially.

[OdieTN]

Welcome and congrats on your new truck!

[TJ's GMC]

Originally Posted by Ccsmith

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Thanks yall. I plan on replacing fluids, fuel tank and lines, new plugs wires etc. before even starting to to try to crank it. I want to start wet sanding body to see about a patina finish but is that worth going through if not ready to clear coat? I think eventualy i will tear it down completely but i just wanna see if i can get it running and driving to enjoy a ride abefore complete teardown which will take years financially.

If you have a pressure washer available that's what I'd do first. Sometimes that will bring some shine back just giving them a good bath.
I wouldn't worry about the body to much until you have it mechanically sound for enjoyment first. Get it cleaned up and running...do some driving...have fun and then make some improvements.

[snazzypig]

TJ is so right! Get it mechanically safe and reliable first. Then drive it and enjoy it for a while. You might just decide to keep it original instead of restoring it.

[62Burb]

Originally Posted by James

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I agree with Lewis. All I can say is be sure to thoroughly clean the fuel system (including the fuel lines). If any of that old gas is in the system and you get the engine running. That fuel crud will cause the intake valves to stick, which will open the door to a big problems. This is what happen to a friend of mine 305 V6.

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I'll add my AMEN: my '63 Suburban 305E arrived running very poorly; seller said it had sat for many years w/o running before he started it. Turns out there were 3 stuck intake valves/bent pushrods; hopefully up and running this week!

[Ccsmith]

Thank you for the replies. Can anyone tell me the difference in the coils rear suspension and leafs. Mine has leaf springs. I have done a little research and I guess it was just an option to get the leafs. Anyone have any other insight.