Turn Signal Switch kaput?

[62Burb]

I'm working on a dozen things at once trying to get my '63 Suburban ready for inspection. I have non-working tail lights (dual filament bulb checks out OK), and the turn signal is not working correctly. The turn signal lever will not stay in position, right or left, unless held there. When held there, the appropriate front signal turns on but does not blink; nothing from the rears w/ turn signals or brakes. I am starting to work my way through the diagnostics on Jolly's pages, but I strongly suspect the in-the-column turn signal switch is broken. IF so, my understanding is a '63 replacement switch is a direct plug-in. Anyone been down this rabbit hole? I'd prefer to keep the existing steering column if possible.

[62Burb]

Update - Jolly's pages are SOOOOOO helpful! i realized the firewall cable was disconnected somehow; Plugging that back together gave me a functional turn signal front and rear; turn signal lever sticks as should in left (down) mode, but has to be held up in right mode. Brake signal works on left but not right; I'm troubleshooting right rear brake signal.

[LEWISMATKIN]

Yes, 62burb, I have. There is a company that makes a reproduction switch that is a direct replacement for your switch. 1963-1966 GMC and 1963 only Chevrolet use the 2452507 switch. It is a pot-metal housing type switch that incorporates the upper mast jacket bearing, the horn contact asm. and the cam and contacts for turn signal switch. The 64-66 Chevrolet switch can be used only if the metal housing from a Chevrolet column is used in conjunction. I purchased the last 2452507 switch nos GMC from a dealer in West Memphis, Arkansas about 20 yrs ago. Good luck in finding your switch.

[LEWISMATKIN]

in addition, bob's chevy trucks have a replacement that while not the original pot metal base housing, does look to have been designed to replace the GMC switch. You will have to reuse the upper mast jacket bearing and horn contact but be careful about the wiring hook up. You may have to disregard the color coding and use a test light to correctly connect the circuits. I hope this is of some assistance.

[AZKen]

Take off horn button and horn parts and observe operation of the lever to determine right turn lever issue. Sometimes a mechanical issue can be fixed. But the plastic/nylon parts involved are hard to restore when cracked/broken.

You are troubleshooting brake issue. FYI or reminder: Brake switch sends signal to T/S unit. Flasher sends flash to T/S unit. T/S unit is a router. It shuts off brake light signal to allow flash for whatever turn is signaled. So test brake lights, with no turn indicated, to see if they both come on. If they do, test probe the applicable wires/terminals to see if voltage is present, using explanation of operation as a guide.

Notes:
1. This lever problem is right side, same as brake issue side. Clue??? Don't know.
2. Shine up the brass male and female contacts of that firewall connector mating pair.
3. On sale. Quick fix if it's the actual electrical switch part of the assembly.

[62Burb]

Originally Posted by AZKen

Take off horn button and horn parts and observe operation of the lever to determine right turn lever issue. Sometimes a mechanical issue can be fixed. But the plastic/nylon parts involved are hard to restore when cracked/broken.


Notes:
1. This lever problem is right side, same as brake issue side. Clue??? Don't know.
2. Shine up the brass male and female contacts of that firewall connector mating pair.
3. On sale. Quick fix if it's the actual electrical switch part of the assembly.

I pulled the horn components, but can't get to the TS assembly w/o pulling the steering wheel. Do I want to do that?

In my inexperience, some of info on Jolly's page comes across as confusing. For example,

"Now on the pedal mount you should find the stop light switch, it has two wires. Is there any power at the Stop light switch?
One wire should have power, if not trace the wire back to the fuse box & repair as needed."

I have an orange and a whit wire to the brake switch, and both have 12 volts. The orange wire blade connector had overheated or arced at some point, so I replaced the connector and cleaned up the connections. I set up a long ground to the taillights, and I am getting some brake light action; weirdly the turn signal lights that had been working aren't now!

Also, pictured is a ?switch at the bottom of the steering column; anyone tell me what it is and why only one connector is plugged in; nothing available that seems to go there.

[62Burb]

So I pulled the steering wheel to sort out the TS mechanism. 55 years of new Mexico heat really fried this plastic; very powdery looking. And small loose bits, never a good sign. It seems to have lost the small horns that keep it in position once flicked on. I'll check with my garage to see what degree of TS function is required in a vehicle of this age; if it flashes while held in position, maybe i can get it on the road temporarily? I am ordering the replacement switch, so the saga will continue.

On a brighter note, I attached a long ground wire to the rear bulbs (popped out the holders) and they light up with the brakes. the bulbs that came with it had short pigtails from the bases; a grounding fix I wonder?

[snazzypig]

Switch at bottom of column looks like a neutral safety switch. Possibly the two empty terminals aren't needed. You would need to look at a wiring diagram.
Wiring issues can be a real challenge, at least for me.

[AZKen]

Sorry, should have said remove wheel. The brake switch is just an on-off switch. Power comes in on one terminal and goes out the other when switch is activated. Doesn't matter which is which. Power then goes to the T/S and eventually to the brake bulbs. Be sure stop switch is operating properly.

A new T/S switch and fixing the grounds sounds like you will have it all solved. The ground is ALWAYS an issue. The bulb base touches the socket, the socket touches the housing, the housing is screwed to body, body bolted to frame, frame cable to battery negative. A long and tortuous path that needs refurbished now and then. The test ground jumper you did proves that. You can do things, like that wire stuck in there, to add to the ground contact. But shining it to clean metal, new hardware and a coating over some of it is best.

[James]

Originally Posted by 62Burb

the bulbs that came with it had short pigtails from the bases; a grounding fix I wonder?

That pigtail use to be longer (6-8 inches approx.). U-Haul use to installed them in car and truck to provide a way to connect to their trailer lights.