Turn signal flasher

[GMCTom]

Hi everybody,

I think I have a little problem with my flasher. No turn signal, no clicking noise.
At the moment there is a Tridon LF12 on the fuse panel with 2 pins. I want to buy a new one, for example the BUSSMANN NO552 Thermal with 2 terminals. Maybe someone please can tell me if it fits?

On the Tridon I read "input lead (X) must be fused". On my fuse panel the terminal "L" (brown wire) is fused if I'm right. Is that correct or is there another/further fuse necessary?





Would be great if someone could help me

[AZKen]

Any 552 should fit. If by "fit" you mean physically, just use the dimensions given on the drawing for blade spacing and other physical sizes. 552 is the correct series of flasher.

If your wiring is still original, all is protected by the fuse panel. You are good to go.
X= 12V battery input
L= load (the bulbs basically)

This is just answering your question, not stating that the flasher is your problem. You will find out. Let us know.

[GMCTom]

AZKen, thank you a lot for your reply.
Yesterday I tested the flasher directly on the battery with a bulb on L and I hear it clicking and see the bulb flashing
Now another question: on the both contacts of the connector for the turn signal (blue marked) should be a flashing 12V voltage on my multimeter. Is that correct? The harness is completely new wired according to the original circuit diagram.

[lizziemeister'sV6]

You would not have an alternating (0-12-0)reading on your mutli-tester anywhere pass your 2 or 3 prong flasher unless the circuit is connected to a load (light bulbs) - the flasher needs to be loaded to break circuit flowing. The turn signal switch in your steering wheel hub only directs the voltage signal to where you want it. When I did trouble shooting I would establish power to the circuit (input on flasher) - then make sure there is a load to complete the circuit on the other end (light bulbs or ect). I would look at your turn signal switch for the problem - do you have brake lights?

[AZKen]

Please reset and describe what problem you have so we can begin proper trouble shoot and ask questions.
To check for flash anywhere, use an ice pick volt testing light. That way even though you have a connector unplugged, the test light will flash. You can test all the way to the bulb contact. Alligator clip on ground and ice pick on point to be tested.

But first describe what is wrong with what. You are asking good questions but you are too far ahead of us. First we want to know what happens when all is hooked up and turn signal lever is on left and right.

[GMCTom]

Great support

First I will test the voltage directly on the panel fuse if there is voltage for the flasher but I'm with you. Main problem was that the turn signal harness was not connected. I will work through your points and questions. Would the turn signal lever work without the tail light for a first test? The rear lights are not connected at the moment.

I'm a total beginner but slowly learning a bit more about the car electronics and thank you for the advice with the ice pick volt testing light.

Further question: on my truck the pre owner used the following sockets for the turn signals. Think they are for the taillights and they don't really fit in the opening of the metal housing. Are there "original" ones available?

[GMCTom]

Ok, I connected the front harness with the turn signal and the rear harness with tail lights. Originally wired.

I have no turn signal and no brake light. Only the tail light is working. Flasher is also working directly connected to the battery.

On the brown connector on the fuse panel where the flasher is placed, my multimeter shows 12V (with ignition on). But now I found out that on the brown connector is connected the L of the flasher.
For my understanding L is normaly load with bulbs and ground. Should I change brown and violett connector on the fuse panel? X = battery/brown, L = bulbs/ground/violett. Please correct me if I‘m wrong.



Greetings

[lizziemeister'sV6]

Brake lights/turn signals are the same circuit (wire) - tail lights are different wire (circuit). See if you have power (12 volts) at your turn signal switch and your brake light switch - they let us know. Please don't change any wires around UNLESS you changed them yourself earlier. Again - let us know if you have power to BOTH switches - THANKS!

[GMCTom]

On the brake light switch I have 12 volts. When I push the brake pedal I also have 12 volts on the other wire.
Sorry for asking but what is the best way to test correctly the turn signal switch?

[lizziemeister'sV6]

On the steering column near the bottom where your brake light switch is connected to your swing pedal support you should see a 2 piece curved wiring terminal with numerous wires that plugs together - pull it apart and take your multi-tester set on ohms and once you studied the wiring systemic of the turn signal switch and know what colored wires are L and R turn signal wires - connect 1 probe of tester on input power wire and the other on the output wire on what your have moved your lever to - if your meter shows the contacts are closing and complete your chosen circuit - if good you know so far that your brake circuit works and your turn signal switch is functioning -------- next move would be checking your wires that run along your frame rail - remember brake and turn signal share the same wire and since you have neither - leads to me to think you have problems with the rear wiring harness. Let us know what you find. THANKS!