Strip or Sand old paint

[Walys60]

I finished sifting through the forum looking for this topic but didn't find it so was hoping those of you who had completed this process could help me decide.

Currently the truck has 2 coats of paint, the original and a repaint, in approximately 61, to all white so it would match the camper they bought for it. She's completely straight. I thought I saw a couple bondo spots where the white was a little brighter, but I ran a magnet over it and I think that must just be a tad thicker paint in those spots because the magnet doesn't hesitate. The only body work will be the rust holes in the fenders and a spot on the driver door that caught the cancer from the fender spot. The old paint is kind of odd...at this point of decades in the sun it almost looks like house paint, the way it is pealing off and all.

Anyway, the decision to be made is, do I strip it to bare metal or just DA it back to the original paint/primer. I have been reviewing options for going bare metal none of them are very appealing. I'll still do it if I need to but I don't want to do it 'just cuz'.

Thanks much for responses in advance.

[AZKen]

Well in 60/61 it's either lacquer or enamel. I know you hate to hear it again but down to bare metal is THE ONLY way to go.

To test: use lacquer thinner on a rag. Rub a hidden spot. If it comes off fast or wrinkles like stripper, it's enamel. If it just stains the rag with paint color, it's lacquer.

It is possible, if a layer is tight to the truck, that you could find an epoxy primer that will cover and seal. Must ask the epoxy vendor once you determine if it's lacquer or enamel.

[WDShaffer]

I've usually stuck to sanding / blasting-- as chemicals can get trapped in seams and come back later to ruin a finish coat. Also as Ken indicates, reaction to the current finishing product has been known to happen.

[bobdylan]

Has anyone done water blasting? I was thinking about having that done.

[AZKen]

Hydroblasting/Dustless Blasting looks pretty interesting. Must dry it pretty quick.
Giant WaterPik!!!!!
Seems like it may only be $300

[bobdylan]

They can do it in your driveway, no dust, and keeps the metal from getting to hot.

[AZKen]

I think it could be as high as $800. Most every area has a franchisee. Don't see any bad vibes on it yet. They use broken glass. Rust inhibitor last for 72 hrs and does not inhibit paint adhesion. All this info is from them, not a customer. About $300 per hour and takes almost 2 hrs.

[ilvracn]

water blasting does a great job, especialy in the hard to reach spots. 800.00 sounds alot better than eating paint dust for a week

[Walys60]

Thanks all for the input. The more I was reading on blasting, the more I was leaning toward sanding.i always thought it was the heat that caused the warping so thought the hydro was the ticket. But then was reading that it's the pressure that does it, not the heat, and they're just as bad about warping as regular blasting. Now you throw in the type of paint the original is not being good to paint over... Sigh.

I figure I'll be taking the fenders and the one door with rust to a local shop to have them look at doing them. I'm not that skilled with that kind of body work and don't want it to end up wavey. Anyway, I'll add his thoughts to the mix and decide from there I guess.

Thanks again

[WDShaffer]

It is true the pressure of the media blasting machine is significant. A skilled operator can avoid pressure damage; but unless you know the shop, how will you be sure?

Any time you want to sub out work, get a resume of sorts. It is your project, time, and money. Hanging out at weekend cruises networking with people is a great way to find out where the skilled help is. You can see the results and hear the stories.