Priming a 351e v6 engine

[triteddy57]

I just looked at the dash and it does have a factory installed oil pressure gauge. So I may see if that shows any pressure. Now All I got to do is figure out how to HOT WIRE the truck. ( I guess that's under another thread subject maybe.) I mentioned earlier truck was given to me. It was my cousins and he has been sick last several years which is why the truck sat. It did run good before. He has only a few weeks or months left. He's is not in good enough health to locate key. So I will have to solve that problem. I seen ignitions on internet. And about the gas tank it's all rusted up. I started cleaning it up but may just get a new one. I built a special contraption with an old trailer axel mounted on 2 posts and attached the tank Like one would do at pig roast. I dumped 300 1/4" nuts inside and rotated it. When I opened the Gas Fill Inlet brown powder flowed out like water. So I have no choice other than to rig up an alternate quick mini tank with fresh gas.
Anyhow I will keep you all updated. Thanks.

[AZKen]

Drop the key switch down on it's pigtail so that you can see it/access it. Don't unplug connector yet. You can be the switch, by connecting two terminals and temporarily touching another. You can do it under the hood also, that takes some jumper wires too. A cheap 2 gal Walmart plastic gas can ($5 ) is good to have around the yard anyway. That's what I use. Run rubber fuel hose from fuel pump inlet to down inside can spout, can sitting on the ground. You don't need a filter in that line. Take off or replace any filter between pump outlet and carb. You don't need any filters for this test. New gas, new can, new hose. I don't think the carb will operate correctly but it should at least start. May have to cup your hand over carb and work the throttle. A helper would be nice. If you have a working hand choke, you can close it 90%-100%. Now that you know it was running, don't worry, it will be OK to start. The oil in plug holes should be blown out or leaked down by now. Don't add any more when putting plugs in tight. (damage can occur) I will check schematic for wire colors/position to jump on switch or describe under hood . Others here may help. Good battery? If your dizzy is off on the bench, you can set points easy. You need to do that. The rotor is keyed and the cap is keyed. You are still going to rotate motor with starter and no plugs before actual start. I understand you will be watching oil pressure gage and watching rocker area. You should continue to report your progress. Maybe someday this post will help someone else. Good job so far. It is good you want to do it yourself, that's what old trucks are all about. When you hear it fire off you will want a cheeseburger and fries. I think a lot of guys think a 351E is cool. Make sure you read everything, at least about motors and specs, on the Jolly legacy site.

[bigblockv6]

Originally Posted by Ed Snyder

Aren't there holes in the rocker arm shafts that have to be lined up with holes in the mounts before oil will flow? That won't happen with just spinning the oil pump.

Depending on what position the camshaft is in there are holes in the camshaft bearings that feed the heads with oil that travels up to the rocker arm shafts. That's why turning the engine over in small increments will allow you to reach the right position so oil will flow up into the heads.

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by bigblockv6

Depending on what position the camshaft is in there are holes in the camshaft bearings that feed the heads with oil that travels up to the rocker arm shafts. That's why turning the engine over in small increments will allow you to reach the right position so oil will flow up into the heads.

Thanks for straightening me out, Pete. I must have had my thinking cap on too tight, blocking blood flow to my brain. Of course you're right -- it's the turning of the camshaft that sends oil to the rocker arm shafts. The rocker arm shafts don't turn.

[BarryGMC]

The cams are not cross drilled the bearings are grooved the oil travels around the cam in the groove. Then it travels to the rocker arm shafts. There is no need to turn the engine at all. Here is a oil flow chart.

[bigblockv6]

Grooved bearings? Well just to confirm my suspicions I checked out the old 305E out of my 68 that's getting scrapped and there are no grooves in the cam bearings. The GMC Truck Unit Overhaul Manual as a very good illustration of the cam bearings with their oval shaped oil holes. From first hand experience it is necessary to turn the engine over to get the oil up into the rockers, when Azken brought up his issue it took me back when I was priming my 478 almost two years ago having the same situation and remembering a professional engine builder telling me you need to turn the engine over to see the oil flow through the rockers. The oil chart only shows where and which direction the oil flows and that's about it.

[bigblockv6]

Ok Mr. GMC Advisor! I just looked at it again and there are no grooved cam bearings anywhere on this factory original 305E V6.

[bigblockv6]

Included in this post is a pic of a factory rear cam bearing on a 305E V6 I just took, yes it is smooth and no grooves. To the moderator I hope you take note that such personal attacks using profanity from other people on this site are uncalled for.

[BarryGMC]

Last post. Pull the bearing and look.

[Clyde]

When I posted about turning some engines over, I was re-affirming a previous comment, I did not mention the GMC V6, as it does not have to be turned over. When priming an engine it does help it to turn it over a few times by hand. If memory serves me correctly the block is grooved behind the cam bearings on the GMC V6, not the cam bearings them self.