Turn signal cancellation repair

[jagarra]

One thing that has irritated me since I have had my truck is that the turn signals only cancel when I make a left turn, no right. I had purchased a replacement cancellation finger set a few months ago, today was nice so I figured I would repair the signals.
After I figured out how to get the horn button off, I carefully marked the location of the steering wheel to the shaft, I used a cut off q-tip, dipped in my girlfriends nail polish to mark both parts. After I marked and removed the horn components I came to the turn signal switch, with It’s broke cancellation ear on top.
The nylon unit was attached to the switch mechanism below it through a shaft that was terminated with one of those push on once clips and the end of it flared so it would never come off. So it was sandwiched against the switch and cancellation arms. That shaft was also where the turn signal stock screwed into on the side on the steering column.
Based on the options, it seemed the best method was to drill the shaft and thread it so a screw could be used to hold the whole thing together.

[jagarra]

Next came the decision of what size to drill and screw combination to use to attach the cancellation unit. Not knowing how big the shaft was behind the unit, I figured using a smallest size I could find would be good. I first tried a 4-40 size, but when I started to put the drill against the shaft I didn’t like the size, it was too big. I so I started looking to see what I had in my stocks of stuff, I came across some 3mm taps, it required a #40 drill bit and I had some screws just the right length.
I bet some of you are wondering about how we are going to deal with the pushed on forever clip and the flared end of the shaft we are going to work on. Well the process of drilling and tapping the shaft neatly takes care of that issue.
That flared end makes a nice guide for the drill bit, so it went straight to center and started cutting into the aluminum shaft pretty easily. This shaft is part of the turn signal stock that sticks out from the side the column After a bit I figured I had gone a good way and started to thread the hole, after a few turns the tap picked up our forever clip and it was out of the way exposing a nice picture of the attachment of the cancellation unit.

[jagarra]

Getting the cancellation unit out was a bit difficult, I was trying to pry it out and it did not want to budge. So I carefully drilled a couple holes adjacent to the mounting tap, as you can see I wasn’t careful enough I went a little too deep, but when I checked nothing hit below. Adding a hole on the left side near the edge would give you the ability to grab it with some need nose pliers and work it out.
After losing the mounting screw for the unit and blowing the area out with compressed air, it was time to install the new unit. It slid on over the boss and the screw with plastic washer went over the unit to hold it all in place.
Horn didn’t honk when done, cleaned the rust from the spring plate, didn’t tighten too much and now it’s OK
Took truck for test ride, signaled left, it cancelled, came to corner, signaled right it cancelled,
That’s what I did for my truck today,

Cheers,

[jrmunn]

I also need to fix the turn signal so it will cancel. Where did you buy the part (#127206)? I assume this is only the nylon piece.

JRMunn

[jagarra]

Found it on e-bay from this seller, there are other models it was used on too.

blezekchevysupply

other infor from the ad, NORS Champ 127206 SM14 Direction Cam 61 62 63 64 Rambler 62 63 64 65 IH Scout

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Champ-12720...d=122313463806 this is another seller, he has a lot of similiar items listed in his store, maybe worth a look see.

[jrmunn]

jagarra,

Thank you for the information!

JRMunn

[jagarra]

Hey JR added some more contact info, another seller has similar items.

gg

[Jim A]

The mechanism for the dual use of the filament for brake and turn signal on my '60 failed about '70 and resisted repair.
I ended up with a three position toggle switch on the dash and added lights on the rear.
The lights are more noticeable than stock and they don't regularly need the contacts jiggled to keep working.