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GMC V6 and V12 Engines Engine repair and rebuilding

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  #1  
Old September 18th, 2016, 11:09 PM
bpmcgee bpmcgee is offline
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Default Why isn't RSRoses Truck running?

As I posted in another thread, my brother-in-law has a '62 1500 with a 305D in it. The truck had 73k miles on it, so the engine is barely broken in!

I tried turning it with the fan, but it wouldn't budge, so it's possible it's seized.

Is there any value in me pulling the engine, or should I let it drift off into the junkyard with the rest of the truck?

B

Last edited by bpmcgee; September 19th, 2016 at 09:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old September 19th, 2016, 12:54 AM
rsrose rsrose is offline
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Default Stalling problem

People - I have a 1962 GMC 1000 Series 305D, which stalls in the hot climate of Arizona once the truck reaches normal temperature. It runs fine at night or in cooler weather. When the vehicle stalls, it will only restart once it cools off. If this is not vapor lock, what else could it be?
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  #3  
Old September 19th, 2016, 01:07 AM
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AZKen AZKen is offline
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Default Re: 305D value?

rsrose: You will have to describe what won't start means. Just clicks when key turned, Won't turn over fast enough, turns over fast enough but NO fire, has fire but won't stay running. Pops, sputters, backfire, gas smell...... Just started doing this? truck is new to you? History of this trouble? History of work done recently.

BPMgee: You may not be able to turn over a Big Block V6 with just the fan. Take out spark plugs and try again. It is worth a little money. But big difference if frozen or not, so be sure. If not frozen and complete: $200-$500 (value is hard to say for sure, but my experience are these numbers and are for running motors). The demand is not great and have to find someone fairly near because of shipping would be WAY WAY too high. It's all about supply and demand in your immediate area. Some very high populated areas will have a better shot. Lots of folks here. Post in "MarketPlace". Be careful what you say about mileage unless you have good proof. Odometer not proof. If barely "broke in" why is it "broken"? Don't use the starter motor to turn over unless some lubrication procedures are done FIRST.

Last edited by AZKen; September 19th, 2016 at 01:31 AM.
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Old September 19th, 2016, 01:24 AM
bpmcgee bpmcgee is offline
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Default Re: 305D value?

Thanks, Ken. That's about what I was expecting -- lots of effort for a small payback and uncertain time-frame

It stays where it is.

B
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Old September 19th, 2016, 01:41 AM
rsrose rsrose is offline
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Default Re: 305D value?

Hello Ken,

The truck drives fine in gear, especially at speeds above 40 mph at "normal" engine temperature. On deceleration, the engine often begins to sputter, then die. It will not start again until cooler Same problem if the temperature gauge goes above normal. In this case, vehicle just dies in traffic. Waiting in line on a hot day, same reaction. Note that clear-plastic fuel filter does not show fuel, just as if the fuel had been vaporized. When running, fuel filter shows gas passing on to carburetor. Only way to start it if not completely cooled off (waiting about an hour) is to use starter fluid or dump a little high octane gas down the carburetor. Mechanical fuel pump is 3 weeks old. All fittings and fuel lines OK. Sending unit filter inside tank OK. Today, on the way home in 100 degree temperature, it began to die by sputtering, but returned to function when I pulled out the choke.

Truck started doing this about the same time I put on the new mechanical fuel pump (there is no electrical pump) along with replacing a leaking brass fitting on the pump. Everything is now dry around the fuel pump. The vehicle has always been in my family. No gas smell when I try to start it once it has stalled. The battery turns over the engine. It's just that the engine won't catch.

Last edited by rsrose; September 19th, 2016 at 01:47 AM. Reason: Addition of second paragraph
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Old September 19th, 2016, 06:24 AM
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Default Re: 305D value?

You have a fuel delivery problem NOT vapor lock. Could be several things. Tank not vented (gas cap old and not functioning). You got a bad fuel pump right out of the box. I just have a feeling you are focused on "hot day, wait til it cools" when it's really gradually losing fuel and/or fuel pressure and then "opening up again". As in : vent problem, fuel pump diaphragm not pumping enough or losing pressure/suction, clogging somewhere and then unclogging. Drive with gas cap loose, check the carb squirt, do a fuel pump flow test, replace filter (where is your filter?), check carb screws. If you can start it with fluid/gas...it is fuel delivery. Maybe that's obvious and you know that already but I have to say it anyway. Pulling out choke to run is a give-a-way. Been in the family thru many summers? I guess it's possible you re-routed some hose or fuel line recently near exhaust manifold or added something under the hood that blocks air flow now. Hope it's not a load of bad gas. Has it been sitting? How long? Everything from tank cap to pickup tube to all the way to intake manifold must be checked. Every inch of the delivery system. Test and troubleshoot, you will find it. Vapor lock is rare now a days, albeit Ethanol has a lower boiling point. You CAN NOT have E10 stored in your tank for more than 30 days without burning thru the motor.

Last edited by AZKen; September 19th, 2016 at 06:52 AM.
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Old September 19th, 2016, 03:20 PM
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Default Az ken

Ken, thanks for the suggestions. Normally, the truck has been driven every couple of days for years. Never had this particular problem before here in Tucson, AZ. First noticed it after gassing up in Casa Grande while on a trip to Yuma this past Labor Day. No problem on the way back to Tucson, but we left Yuma at 4 AM to avoid the heat. I will try a different gas cap or try driving with the old one loose. Likewise, 'will adjust the carb, which was rebuilt, by the way, three years ago. I have two gas filters. One is the standard filter inside a canister under the vehicle on the passenger side (replaced yesterday). The second is a VW Bug type clear plastic affair (new) between the fuel pump and the carb. Fuel lines all mounted correctly. Metal fuel line near exhaust manifold is lined with aluminum/asbestos tape at closest point (roughly 3 inches).
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Old September 19th, 2016, 03:41 PM
bpmcgee bpmcgee is offline
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Default Re: 305D value?

Hmmp. My thread has been hijacked!
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Old September 19th, 2016, 09:12 PM
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Default Re: 305D value?

Some folks say the fuel has been reformulated and vapor lock is back. I have not heard anyone here in Phoenix complaining about that or read anything on forums much. I'll keep an open mind on it. It does exhibit the same as vapor lock but it also acts like the other items I mention. All I know what to do is experiment to isolate the problem, to eliminate causes and test fuel delivery system components. Take off the filter between pump and carb in case it is acting like a boiler vessel from block heat/fan heat. Run a straight hose from pump to carb. You seem to have insulated the tubing. If your fuel pump is the slightest weak, it will either not deliver enough fuel or not enough pressure to overcome vapor lock if it's vapor lock. Be sure about the fuel pump. Make sure your insulation technique hasn't added heat and is conducting heat toward tubing. I think a separate, non touching shield, set to catch air flow would be WAY better. Just an aluminum .060 sheet running parallel to frame allowing air flow to pass on both sides. Almost like a boxing plate. When did you add the wrap on tubing? It would be pretty interesting to use an infrared, laser aimed thermometer, pointed at various points on the fuel line to spot a big spike. Do you have a heat riser on that side? if so, if it's sticking it will heat up, it's right there near fuel line? and maybe your filter. GET RID OF IT. Don't need it in AZ. If it's not sticking, it's mass may still heat the area.
P.S. Hope you don't have a chrome ignition coil. Hope your coil is not touching block directly.
Trying to get a feel for a problem from afar is the hard part. You are providing good clear info. Keep it up. Sorry Mcgee.

Last edited by AZKen; September 19th, 2016 at 10:08 PM.
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Old September 20th, 2016, 03:36 AM
bpmcgee bpmcgee is offline
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Default Re: 305D value?

So anyone else have a feeling for how much a 305D is worth?

B
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