Dangit. Appears to be stuck...

[cowboygunner]

Morning, ladies and gents. Been a little less than a year since I started my '62. Got busy doing other things. Just replaced the starter, plugs, wires, distributor cap and battery on a 351. Thinking it would turn right over, but no. Acts like it wants to, but won't turn. I did scroll the pages (got to about 27), and found some good info. I have pulled the plugs, squirted kroil in the spark plug holes, and was going to start gently moving the balancer. Leery of removing valve covers and distributor due to lack of replacement parts. Does anyone know what size bolt holds the balancer on? Thinking it is a 15/16". I don't have the right socket or a long enough breaker bar. Wanted to make sure before I drove into town. If anyone has any other tips on gettin' it moving, I would be very grateful. She fired right up and ran like a top the last time I started her. Have a great day!

[Prowbar]

You are correct, the front crankshaft bolt uses a 15/16" socket. Probably some surface rust in the cylinders. Give each a good dose of Kroil and let it soak for a day or so. Try turning it over with the breaker bar. Hope it loosens up without too much effort. Good luck!

[cowboygunner]

Thanks, Prowbar! She started turning this morning. The Kroil and three days did the trick. Didn't even have to put a breaker bar on her. Fire - check. Compression - check. Fuel - nope. Guessing my 2300 2-barrel is gummed up. Once that is squared away, I should be good to go. Have a good one!

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Annnnd another one gets back on the road. Good luck CG. That 351 is bulletproof!

[Jim A]

I always worry when I read about a long idle engine being prepared for new use.
Once the three necessary components (spark, compression and fuel) are ready, I would like to have the oil system briefly under pressure before starting the engine.
A small hand or electric pump could be used to bring the oil up to capacity by injecting it through any access point directly from one or more of the oil bottles you were just going to dump down the filler hole.
Wouldn't you feel better to know that all the crank and cam (and other) bearings have nice clean oil already in place?
There used to be a similar device available through the old MG Mitten store. Old Ford tractors can also be oil primed.

[Prowbar]

Good job! As Jim said, priming the engine is always a good idea before starting. The V6s are very easy to prime. Just remove the distributor and oil pump drive, and insert a piece of 8mm or 5/16 hexagon bar stock that is long enough to stick out of the engine. You could also use the stock oil pump shaft, but make sure you cannot drop a socket in the hole! Then use an electric drill to prime the engine. You should feel more resistance when the oil starts to get pumped around. Continue until you see some oil flowing from the rocker arms. This does not always happen, as the camshaft lines up the oiling slot to the cylinder head. It is always a good idea to prime, turn the engine 20 degrees or so, then prime 10 seconds or so. Do this until you reached 2 full revolutions.

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Jim A

I always worry when I read about a long idle engine being prepared for new use.
Once the three necessary components (spark, compression and fuel) are ready, I would like to have the oil system briefly under pressure before starting the engine.
A small hand or electric pump could be used to bring the oil up to capacity by injecting it through any access point directly from one or more of the oil bottles you were just going to dump down the filler hole.
Wouldn't you feel better to know that all the crank and cam (and other) bearings have nice clean oil already in place?
There used to be a similar device available through the old MG Mitten store. Old Ford tractors can also be oil primed.

A quicker, simpler way to pressurize your oil system before any start is to install one of these -- http://masterlube.net/classic.htm I've got one on my '62 Suburban, and use it every time I start the engine.

[Jim A]

Very nearly the gadget that I remember from 50 years ago, with lots of improvements.
IIR, you can use them to change oil, too.

[Prowbar]

Originally Posted by Ed Snyder

A quicker, simpler way to pressurize your oil system before any start is to install one of these -- http://masterlube.net/classic.htm I've got one on my '62 Suburban, and use it every time I start the engine.

Interesting Ed. I am wondering how and where it is connected to the engine.

[Ed Snyder]

Originally Posted by Prowbar

Interesting Ed. I am wondering how and where it is connected to the engine.

With a "T" fitting on the oil filter mount.