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  #61  
Old December 9th, 2020, 02:59 AM
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Funky61 Funky61 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Well done on the videos Walys60!

I commented, posted and liked. Digging the T-Bird too

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  #62  
Old December 9th, 2020, 12:44 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Quote:
Nice to see you're finally making more progress. Keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming.
Thanks Ed. Yeah, there have been a lot of starts and stops unfortunately. I'm kind of in a rush to get as much done as I can this winter as I've determined it IS just too dang hot to get any work done on it in the summer.

Daunting task. I've been able to keep motivated by using the 'how do you eat an elephant?...one bite at a time' thing. When I look at the whole truck and what has to be done, it seems like something that can never happen, but when I look at it like 'I just want to rebuild the front end and paint the frame' I have a more attainable goal.

Anyway, I appreciate the encouragement!

Last edited by Walys60; December 9th, 2020 at 12:51 PM.
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  #63  
Old December 9th, 2020, 12:47 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Quote:
Well done on the videos Walys60!

I commented, posted and liked. Digging the T-Bird too

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Thanks Funky, I figured it was one of you guys

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. Love the feedback too...I've never done anything like that so didn't know what needed to be worked on. I'll keep that in mind for the next uploads. The video part is another motivator. I try to do 'something' every day. Even if it's just take another couple of bolts loose.
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  #64  
Old December 9th, 2020, 10:01 PM
James James is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

I noticed you use a cheater bar to remove the upper control arm. What I did is to use a thread chaser (similar to a die but don't cut any threads) on the exposed thread and then a shot of penetrating oil and the nuts come off easily. Just my thought.
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  #65  
Old December 10th, 2020, 02:10 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Quote:
I noticed you use a cheater bar to remove the upper control arm. What I did is to use a thread chaser (similar to a die but don't cut any threads) on the exposed thread and then a shot of penetrating oil and the nuts come off easily. Just my thought.
Thanks James, great tip. I did use a cheater and I tend to start with it whether I need it or not

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. I actually am in process of uploading a new video and I mention on it that I can't seem to stop myself from using either a cheater or the breaker bar...assuming everything is torqued to high heaven, but they really aren't. For the most part I could use my ratchet without any help.

The threads aren't a problem on these because they've all been blasted but I will look up the 'thread chaser' for future bolts that aren't. Sounds like something I sure could have used along the way for sure.
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  #66  
Old January 4th, 2021, 02:32 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Just a quick update. I am doing the youtube video log so I haven't been posting much here obviously. I've gotten the driver's side front about as far as I can get it without the new parts I have on order. Everything is painted (though I am going to have to redo the frame).

Of 3 major parts ordered that I have received so far, all 3 are not the correct part. This is the most frustrating part of the process so far. Calling the suppliers doesn't help either. They just repeat what I have already seen in their catalog and know nothing about cross referencing parts, etc. I'm just having to order and return and I guess that's how it will be for this project (sigh).

The pictures show the frame that I have to repaint because it rained shortly after and it is all bubbled, and the parts that are completed and ready to have the 'new' parts put back on, if I ever get the correct ones.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PXL_20201228_212703318.jpg (3.68 MB, Multiple views, 15 clicks)
File Type: jpg PXL_20210104_142156193.jpg (4.26 MB, Multiple views, 17 clicks)
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  #67  
Old October 28th, 2021, 09:36 PM
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Okay, I'm back and have a solution to the upper control arm shaft (I hope). Check out the video...


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Last edited by Walys60; October 28th, 2021 at 09:42 PM.
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  #68  
Old October 31st, 2021, 02:08 PM
Prowbar Prowbar is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Hello, interesting build. I would encourage to save as much OEM/original parts as possible, possibly repair rubber seals with new repro ones like on the control arm shafts. The OEM parts fit better and will last longer than any new repro stock.

Already subscribed to your Youtube channel, will follow the progress. Good luck!
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  #69  
Old November 1st, 2021, 03:48 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Quote:
Hello, interesting build. I would encourage to save as much OEM/original parts as possible, possibly repair rubber seals with new repro ones like on the control arm shafts. The OEM parts fit better and will last longer than any new repro stock.

Already subscribed to your Youtube channel, will follow the progress. Good luck!
Thanks Prowbar! Definitely trying to keep it as stock as possible. The control arm shaft I'm using isn't even a repro, it's just flat not the part for that truck at all! LOL...(sigh)...I've tried everything I could think of to get new seals for the originals I took off of it. They are still in great shape and new seals would really be all it would take but after exhausting all possibilities I'm left with this one option that 'works'.

I'm really hoping this parts thing is just the front end for the most part. I know I'm going to have to come up with something else for the front engine mounts too. But the rest is basically 'standard' for those years. The front is different because, not only is it a '60 but it's a 3/4 ton. But the rear end I 'think' is fairly standard between it and Chevy at least and, obviously, the body, trans and engine are common among all those year's models for the most part.

Anyway, I'll keep posting as it goes back together. As I mentioned in the video, all it takes is money

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. I have to get both new lower control arm shafts now (I do have a line on those) and they are $250 a each...for lousy stinkin control arm shafts!!!?? Anyway, lol.
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  #70  
Old January 28th, 2022, 07:47 PM
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Walys60 Walys60 is offline
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Default Re: Grampa's 60

Well, I FINALLY got something DONE.

The driver's side front end is complete! Well, minus the shock. Anyway, I figured it has been while since I updated though I have still been posting videos on the youtube channel, so this seemed like a good time to do that.

I will post a parts list once I order the drinker's side parts. I'll look around to see if there is a better place to post it though so people could theoretically just do a complete front end for a 1960 GMC 1500 from the list if they wanted.

The reason I am waiting until I get the other side is because I am trying a different lower control arm than the one I got for the driver's side. The one I got for the driver's side was from 'performance online' and was $245. The reason I went with it is because the picture of it showed the conical seals and bushings that the original had and I had gotten burned by ordering one that 'looked' like the original shaft but the seals didn't. Anyway, the one I got for $245 was the right shaft but had the squared off seals and bushings anyway! It didn't make a lick of difference for the fit though so, great, it fits...but it cost TWO HUNDRED AND FOURTY FIVE BUCKS! On the other hand, Summit Racing has one it swears is for the '60 1500 that is $90 for a pair of them! It's worth a shot. Worst case, I have to send them back and order the $245 one.

So, if this works out, my list will be $331 (rounded up) which includes tax and shipping, per side. If I end up having to order the expensive shaft again, it will be $573 per side. As noted I haven't put shocks on it yet. Though, to even it out I DID do all the steering except the rag joint. I found a set of shocks in stock at the local O'reilly for $43 each so just hadn't bothered yet.

That's it for now
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Last edited by Walys60; January 28th, 2022 at 09:08 PM.
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