No spark

[GTS61]

I'm working on my pickup, doing body work and painting and the truck has been sitting for about 2 years while I do this. I also installed a Vintage Air ac. Well I put the battery back in because I wanted to move it and it turns over really good but won't start. I think I tried almost everything I've read on hear but what I'm wondering is since I installed the Vintage Air and didn't need any power from the old heater and that maybe I need to hook up the old heater wire harness to something or maybe something else. Any idea's would greatly be appreciated!! I am not a mechanic as you can see. I do have power to the coil. Nothing else was done to the truck motor since I drove it in to the garage except new points.

Greg

[AZKen]

Well since you have new points, you need to check the 1.gap. Who did the points? You need to 2.check spark at a spark plug and you need to see if 3.gas is squirting inside carb. What does it do? Fire? no fire at all and no back fire? These are the basics of "was running now no start". Spark and gas.... There are a dozen things it could be. 4.Does coil have power during cranking? You don't have to be a mechanic, just mechanically/electrically inclined. You must have some basic knowledge if you have tried "almost everything". Let us know what that means specifically.
5.So..Running into the garage, then AC and points? then no start? Troubleshooting 101: S.O.E.= Sequence Of Events. Then test per that. It does seem like electrical/ignition/miswire, as you suspect, but don't want to marry that yet.

[jimjaz]

I had this problem many years ago and found the problem to be the capacitor that works in conjunction with the points, under the cap. I replaced the capacitor and the problem of not being able to start was fixed. I had power to the coil, but not to any of the cylinder wires.
In your case, I would be thinking more along the lines of what Ken has to say. If you did some wire "borrowing" and it has been a couple of years, then your carb may be gunked up or your wiring is amiss with the changes you made to it.

Jim

[GTS61]

Thanks for responding. I have no spark when I put a spark plug on a plug wire and grounded it to metal. And I did just buy a capacitor and it isn't that. I do have a friend mechanic that is coming by but it's going to be 3 weeks so I was just trying things that I read on the archives. I do have 12 volts at the positive side of the coil and I did find a bad connection on the starter that I fixed. I cleaned all the grounds that I know of. I do have gas going to carb but it won't fire. I do appreciate all of your knowledge on this site. Thanks Guys!!

[AZKen]

Originally Posted by GTS61

Thanks for responding. I have no spark when I put a spark plug on a plug wire and grounded it to metal. And I did just buy a capacitor and it isn't that. I do have a friend mechanic that is coming by but it's going to be 3 weeks so I was just trying things that I read on the archives. I do have 12 volts at the positive side of the coil and I did find a bad connection on the starter that I fixed. I cleaned all the grounds that I know of. I do have gas going to carb but it won't fire. I do appreciate all of your knowledge on this site. Thanks Guys!!

Well if you are sure about no spark and you have double checked the spark at several plugs, then you have narrowed it down to "spark". That's good.
So...
1. Check pos on coil when cranking, you didn't say.
2. Did you check points gap, you didn't say.
3. You can't dismiss a bad condenser or points just because they are "new"
Those Chinese parts are known to be bad right out of the box. You may have installed wrong or not adjusted points correctly. My guess is points not adjusted.
4. Coil can be bad.
5. Waiting for mechanic is your option. There are further test for mentioned components. Spark is easy to backtrack.
6. Gas check not relevant now, but "gas going to carb" is a different meaning than squirting observed in throat.

Good luck down the road.

[GTS61]

I haven't check gap yet. Do I need to take points out to measure gap? Yea points and condensers are cheap to buy but I'll check my gap first. I did buy a new coil but I had same problem so I took it back. What should my coil read while cranking? Thanks Ken!!

[AZKen]

Just want to be sure wiring is correct and that you have voltage on the coil pos terminal when the motor is cranking. There may be a glitch that interrupts the voltage when key is turned to start.
Just put a test light on the coil pos and have someone crank motor with the ignition switch and see that the light stays lit. If it does, that's good, if it goes out, that's bad. Report that ASAP.


Point gap: Take off distributor cap. Bump starter or push truck so that the rub block on the points is on a one of the high "lobes" of the distributor shaft. In other words resting on a high ridge. Leave it right there. This will open the points to max open. Use a feeler gauge to see what the gap is now. You want .016-.019. You will barley loosen the screw on the points slot and use the built in screw driver pry tabs to move the points to get the gap...or however you can get the point assembly to move.
The gap will try to move when you re torque that screw. Watch out for that!!! Recheck the gap after screw is tight. You may have to play with that some but it's REAL important.
Also make sure your distributor plug wires are in the proper firing order. Search the internet and read all you can find on setting points and general old time auto ignition systems. Don't think you have a big problem. One step at a time will find it. Post what you find out. We all need to know the results of each step.

You did not answer this: Was it Running into the garage, then you did AC and points? then no start?
You didn't leave the distributor rotor off did you? When you put points/condenser on?

[GTS61]

That's funny I almost did leave the rotor off but saw it sitting there. I drove it into garage turned it off for about 2years. While it was sitting I installed AC then a couple of months later I tried starting it and it turns over but no Fire. So I got new points and then bought a condenser with no firing yet. I'll try the things you said to try and get back with you all. Thanks again

[jbgroby]

GST,

Might I suggest a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, I made the switch over 6 years ago, truck sat for 5 more years before really getting started once per week and never had a moments problems with it. Its the best $75.00 (might cost a bit more now) you can spend on the truck. I tried to search their page for the part number, but I think you need to email them your engine size.

[James]

Here is an old trick I had learn (when I was a teenager and before electronic ignition) for setting the point when you only have a screw driver and stranded somewhere without all of your tools. Set the rubbing block up just like AZKen has stated and use a business card or a book of matches cover for setting your gap. This will get you home to where you can use your point feeler gauge to set it.