1964 GMC 1000 Fleetside

[aphaynes]

Well, after many many many years, I have my first automotive project. Whatever shall I do with it. So many decisions to make, but here is what I'm starting with. Looking forward to learning a lot from all the pro's on here. ;) Hopefully they show up.

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:)

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Heres your pics fixed aphaynes! :thumbsup:

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How I did it (I used to write manuals lol)

Pull up your flickr pic you want to post.
On the right there's a picture of a box with an error off to the right top corner of it. If you put your mouse over it and don't click it says, "share this photo"
Click that box. At the bottom of the popup you'll see EMBED or HTML. Choose HTML.

Now look at the code that shows up. It looks like this
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Scroll to the right till you get to the part of the code that says <img src="
From that point you highlight it until you get to the end of the link. It ends in .jpg
In my example pic the part we highlight and copy is this
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Copy that link, come here and click the mountain picture with a sun on it, like this, <br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br> in the posting window.

Paste that link and youre good to go!




Great looking truck too. Whats the story on her? Someone painted the engine recently that's for sure! In the pic it looks like you could eat off of it :jaw-dropping:

EDIT: Hey, you figured it out without me! ARRGH! I feel my worthlessness growing!!! I'm ..... melllttinnnggggggg!!!

:beer:

[aphaynes]

Don't have her home yet. It originally belonged to my coworkers father in law, and then to him. Looks like they took pretty good care of it. Has the 305 which has been rebuilt, 4 on the floor. They did cover the bed with steel, so I will eventually reverse that. She seems to run good. Tailgate and mirrors are missing. Coworker now has 5 kids so he figured he would never get to getting it how he wanted it. :) They have had fun with it as a family, even using it as prop for some wedding photos. The rear seal was leaking, and he had the new seal, so he is putting that on before I pick it up. Now I have to learn a lot and figure out how I want to finish her.

[aphaynes]

Oh, and I know she has Ford hubs, but don't crucify for that. ;)

[aphaynes]

nice fix on the pics! and the tutorial!! Thanks! I cheated and moved them from flickr to photobucket. :D

[Vernski]

Nice truck looks like it has straight sheet metal that always helps when it's time to paint. Keep us posted on your progress we all love pictures thanks for posting them...Vernski:thumbsup:

[1966shortstep]

Solid looking truck. Will be watching to see where the project takes you. Working on 4-5-6 trucks is fun.
What are your plans?

[aphaynes]

Solid looking truck. Will be watching to see where the project takes you. Working on 4-5-6 trucks is fun.
What are your plans?

Step 1: Learn all I can from you guys! :)
Step 2: Save up some money
Step 3: still got to figure it out...keep it stock? modernize it a bit (ps, pb)? color scheme? Right now the vision in my head keeps changing as I look at what others have done. :(

All I know now is progress will be slow. ;)
Want her to look and run good, but I plan to keep her on the road, not hidden in a garage.

[GMCDAC]

Step 1: Learn all I can from you guys! :)
Step 2: Save up some money
Step 3: still got to figure it out...keep it stock? modernize it a bit (ps, pb)? color scheme? Right now the vision in my head keeps changing as I look at what others have done. :(

All I know now is progress will be slow. ;)
Want her to look and run good, but I plan to keep her on the road, not hidden in a garage.

Welcome from the Black Hills! Great looking truck. You came to the right place to learn about these GMCs. The most knowledgeable folks on the net are right here and will help you out. I learn stuff every day to use when I add one of these trucks to my GMC family again.

Glad you are keeping it on the road while working on it!

DAC

[aphaynes]

Thanks GMCDAC!

[Vernski]

Here is a before and after picture. Sorry the before pic is upside down anyone know how to get it right side up? I try-ed but was in strange territory:poke:
Mine is a 65 GMC 1000 fleetside and took about 5 years:runforthehills:

[aphaynes]

Mine is a 65 GMC 1000 fleetside and took about 5 years:runforthehills:

Very nice! Like the wood accent on the rails. Did you have trouble finding the chrome trim? Seems expensive for what it is from a new reproduction standpoint; unless you can find it used and still in decent shape. Do you have a build thread on here showing how you got from start to finish?

[Foley]

Nice truck Vernski. We'd like to see more pictures when ur up to it. About that upside down stuff. I have the same kinds of problems when I'm trying to attach pictures to messages. Yourz worked out fine. I just turned my monitor thing upside down and set it back on the desk and that before picture was good as can be..

[Vernski]

Very nice! Like the wood accent on the rails. Did you have trouble finding the chrome trim? Seems expensive for what it is from a new reproduction standpoint; unless you can find it used and still in decent shape. Do you have a build thread on here showing how you got from start to finish?

Mar-k makes the side moulding but not the upper cab trim and I just polished
them they had some scratches and came out good, the side moulding was to
far gone & mangled. Sorry no on the build thread but I did take some pics so
ask if I have pics of something.

Nice truck Vernski. We'd like to see more pictures when ur up to it. About that upside down stuff. I have the same kinds of problems when I'm trying to attach pictures to messages. Yourz worked out fine. I just turned my monitor thing upside down and set it back on the desk and that before picture was good as can be..

I do have more pics and will post them as time allow, I posted some pics in the paint and bodywork section on the forum. I did get the picture turned right side up but now that I look at it, it's backward I need to pay attention...Vernski:takethat:

[aphaynes]

So with F in the VIN is there any set way to determine a 64, 65, 66? It does not have the HF or ZF mentioned on the club page VIN description.

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[aphaynes]

Seems to have always been here in the Huntsville, AL area though.

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[gmc1963]

vin decoder at the top of the page

[aphaynes]

yeah, the club page says 64-66, the one at the top says 65-66, so that's why I asked.

[Jeannie]

Aphaynes,

GMC manufacturing was labeled in series instead of years, unlike most other manufacturers. With the target demographic a hard-working American that had little use for the annual flash and tech, it was marketed as major upgrades to capability were released. The series did not change from 1964 - 1966, leaving the labeling process unchanged. Aside from the Oakland plant the years in question would be labeled identically. This results in the series being called the 4-5-6 series by fans of the bodystyle.

Congratulations on your new truck. I have subscribed to your thread to see your progress :)

-Jeannie

[aphaynes]

Aphaynes,

GMC manufacturing was labeled in series instead of years, unlike most other manufacturers. With the target demographic a hard-working American that had little use for the annual flash and tech, it was marketed as major upgrades to capability were released. The series did not change from 1964 - 1966, leaving the labeling process unchanged. Aside from the Oakland plant the years in question would be labeled identically. This results in the series being called the 4-5-6 series by fans of the bodystyle.

Congratulations on your new truck. I have subscribed to your thread to see your progress :)

-Jeannie

Thanks Jeannie!

[aphaynes]

OK, I got the GMC Maintenance Manuals - X-6223, X-6323 & X-6423 yesterday. Are there others that would be good to have on hand during this journey?

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I cant think of anything else. You alredy have more than me! :lolsmack:

[aphaynes]

I cant think of anything else. You alredy have more than me! :lolsmack:

😀 yes but i dont really know what i'm doing, so i need all the help i can get! :scared:

[Vernski]

OK, I got the GMC Maintenance Manuals - X-6223, X-6323 & X-6423 yesterday. Are there others that would be good to have on hand during this journey?

A.P. this one is not GMC specific and is for Chevys is called Factory Assembly Manual, but it will tell you how to assemble the truck on the parts that are the same on the GMC, It's not laid out in any particular order with no index so you have to look for what applies and make your own index. Other than that it was helpful when I forgot how something was assembled plus they are not to costly at least the last time I looked at them. It was helpful with things like the wipers and where the bolts go in the sheet metal and lots of other items, It's not a must have item if you take notes on how things are assembled and have a good memory. But if you do things like me I tend to forget where and how stuff goes...Vernski:runforthehills:

[aphaynes]

A.P. this one is not GMC specific and is for Chevys is called Factory Assembly Manual, but it will tell you how to assemble the truck on the parts that are the same on the GMC, It's not laid out in any particular order with no index so you have to look for what applies and make your own index.

Thanks. :thumbsup: I was wondering how useful that one would be.

[aphaynes]

It's amazing what you don't see the first one or two times you look at something. When I first looked at this truck, I thought the hood was good. I was glad because I hear they are hard to find. However, taking another look while trying to put a game plan in place I noticed the following...

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I've seen kids throw them away for less than that, but I've seen guys patch much bigger than that. If it was me I'd try to clean all the rust off then weld up the holes. A flapdisk and a wire wheel (15.00 or so for both) would clean them up pretty good. WDShaffer is the paint and body guy to go to for tips there. Do you know how to weld any?

[aphaynes]

I've seen kids throw them away for less than that, but I've seen guys patch much bigger than that. If it was me I'd try to clean all the rust off then weld up the holes. A flapdisk and a wire wheel (15.00 or so for both) would clean them up pretty good. WDShaffer is the paint and body guy to go to for tips there. Do you know how to weld any?

Sadly no, even though my dad is a welder, I never learned from him as a kid...better late than never though right!?! Of course we live 10 hours apart now. I won't see the folks again until May. However, he may have some equipment he can let go of. ;) Got some wire wheels I used to when restoring my grandfather's Shopsmith last fall. May get to use that to rip some wood for the bed...maybe. :D think I saw some drawings for that on here somewhere. :confused:

[WDShaffer]

Thanks for the props, Fetch...

Those are the most common type of rusty part: joints where dirt & water collect. Look also at your floorboards where the cab mounts are (front specifically is often bad rusty).

You can fix anything if you are willing to, or if you have no option. It all depends upon what you want to gain from the project. My '61 is a basket case I intend to have fun with -after 10 years of waiting, the stars are aligning again :woo:

If you can't get to the back side of the rust, you gotta remove material until it is solid metal. A doner bow-tie hood could give the patch panels necessary too.

[aphaynes]

Thanks for the props, Fetch...
A doner bow-tie hood could give the patch panels necessary too.

Thanks. There is an old 64 Chevy near here that has sat on Craigslist for sometime. Might try to see if he can part with the hood for that use. Thanks. Of course the hood may not be in as good as shape as the teeny tiny picture makes it appear in the CL ad. :)

[aphaynes]

Aphaynes,

GMC manufacturing was labeled in series instead of years, unlike most other manufacturers. With the target demographic a hard-working American that had little use for the annual flash and tech, it was marketed as major upgrades to capability were released. The series did not change from 1964 - 1966, leaving the labeling process unchanged. Aside from the Oakland plant the years in question would be labeled identically. This results in the series being called the 4-5-6 series by fans of the bodystyle.

Congratulations on your new truck. I have subscribed to your thread to see your progress :)

-Jeannie

Found this interesting table in the LMC catalog today. If it is correct then I guess I have an early 1965 instead of 1964 based on the model and vehicle portion of my VIN, "F26882". :oops:

Can anyone support LMC's statement?

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[aphaynes]

Haven't got my truck home yet...hopefully this weekend. :)

In the meantime just doing a lot of reading and studying. As a rookie in the world of auto body work, I know I have a lot to learn for any aspect of this project I take on myself. I just found this resource. Seems to be pretty informative in terms of metal work and paint, but then...what do i know ;)

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Maybe some folks here have used it or seen it and can vouch for it. Maybe another rookie like me will find it useful.

[Vernski]

Hi AP that looks like a good resource for body work it has allot information and will be very helpful. I like that he said his way was not the only approach to body work, as with any information some are more comprehensive in different areas. I think it is good honest info overall and a good choice....Vernski:thumbsup:

[aphaynes]

Hi AP that looks like a good resource for body work it has allot information and will be very helpful. I like that he said his way was not the only approach to body work, as with any information some are more comprehensive in different areas. I think it is good honest info overall and a good choice....Vernski:thumbsup:

Vernski - thanks for taking a peek at it and confirming my hunch! :tiphat:

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Found this interesting table in the LMC catalog today. If it is correct then I guess I have an early 1965 instead of 1964 based on the model and vehicle portion of my VIN, "F26882". :oops:

Can anyone support LMC's statement?

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Where'd you find it? I messed around the site a little but didnt see it.

[aphaynes]

Where'd you find it? I messed around the site a little but didnt see it.

Page 8 of their online PDF catalog
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this page has links to all of their PDF catalogs
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[aphaynes]

Finally got her home! :turtleride: She survived our 40 mile ride! :runhappy:

May have hosed up the brakes though. Stopped for gas, put on the emergency brake and never took it back off (30 miles or so). :oops: Not used to messing with a big 'ol emergency brake lever. :oops:

She is leaking some oil after she gets warmed up good. :aarrgh:
Dark now, so that will be an investigation for tomorrow if the rain holds off.

Needs a carb rebuild...and I haven't looked at a carb in 25 or so years. :ohmygosh:
Fetch - Guess I'll be revisiting your build thread!! ;)

Brake lights are iffy...sometimes one comes on sometimes two. Wiring check in order as well.

Let the fun begin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :woo::biggringmc::woo:

[Vernski]

Alex hereis a link from the GMC Guy on wiring most of these old trucks just have bad ground from corrosion and other malady's check it out if you haven't already found it...Vernski:runforthehills:

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Here is a link to the decals for the gauges at Brothers Trucks

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[aphaynes]

Alex hereis a link from the GMC Guy on wiring most of these old trucks just have bad ground from corrosion and other malady's check it out if you haven't already found it...Vernski:runforthehills:

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Here is a link to the decals for the gauges at Brothers Trucks

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Awesome! Thanks Vernski!! I had not found that yet. :woo:
Raining here so might as well study up some more!

[aphaynes]

Tootling..is that a word...around the junkyard Friday, I was wondering if anyone had attempted to use a 1990 Chevy Van G20 Fuel tank in the rear of theses GMC's?

Problem: Not sure of the dimensions of the GMC frame. Have seen a drawing for the Chevy and could assume they should be the same but I hate to assume.

Van tank dimensions are 31 x 22 x 12.38 in. according to an ad for one...forgot to carry a tape measure with me. :oops: ...but then that is not what I went there to look for. ;)

tank at the junkyard...
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[aphaynes]

Ok. Could not find a part number in the manual for the crankcase breather. Figured, well just take the one of the engine to the store and see what yyou can find. Pulled off the cap to find the shell was empty and full of gunk :jaw-dropping:

So anyone know the part number for the filter that goes in here and how my big hand can get it cleaned out in that tight spot???

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Cleaning it is easy. Soak it in carb cleaner overnight. Dont know about the fitler though. Mine is road draft ventilation tubed.

[aphaynes]

Cleaning it is easy. Soak it in carb cleaner overnight. Dont know about the fitler though. Mine is road draft ventilation tubed.

Got a pic of that? ...I know you do. :)

[aphaynes]

Should have just dug around here on the 6066 main site before scouring the web. Jolly's part list came through. Should be able to get it from NAPA
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In the pic of mine, the center hole even looks plugged up. That concerns me since that should be an airway into the block correct?

[aphaynes]

Got the carburetor tore down. Just have to pic up the kit and get her back together. I thought about taking pics, but all you have to do is hop over to FetchMeAPepsi's build thread and you have all the documentation you need! :D Thanks Fetch!

Still need to take more off the engine. I have oil coming out of the top rear of the engine and running down everywhere. :( It seems that for some reason there is no gasket under the plate that is under the intake manifold between the valve covers....no, I do not know what it is called. :) Won't know for sure until I pull more stuff off where I can see what is going on back there.

Also, that nice orange engine in my original photos....well...not sure what they did when they painted it, but it is flaking off various spots on the valve covers and block. Basically anywhere I touch it now it seems. :pullinghairout:

On a lighter note, when I brought the truck home, I was calling it rust bucket. Well, my daughter (10) has now officially named it Rusty! She spent the afternoon drawing "Rusty" in different styles because she plans to paint the name in floor of the bed. :lolflag:

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Got a pic of that? ...I know you do. :)

I thought I had one with the tranny pics but nope.

Its a hard very immovable steel pipe that pokes down the back of the engine. If you crawl under the truck for any reason it will seek out sore spots and poke you in them, usually around the temples and ears. Oh, and it drips oil too so you get a nice coating of facepaint as a bonus.
:takethat:

Its not my favorite feature lol.

[aphaynes]

Well, didn't have much time today, but went hunting for the source oil...black gold...Texas tea! :D

Pulled the intake manifold to see this.
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Looks like rivers of black coming from the passages. Not sure if that is a normal look under the manifold.

Tried to take some pics further back where the oil is but couldn't get my self back there where I could see. So some of these shots were taken blind :ahhhh:

In front of the distributor in pic below.... Something strange about the paint going on here. looks bubbly. Not sure whoever painted the engine knew what they were doing. The back piece of that top panel had been cleaned off by previous owner and he had tightened down on those back two screws, thinking the oil was coming out there. He thought he slowed it down and told me a gasket there was needed. Maybe he's right, but I don't know yet.
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Driver side, rear of engine, distributor at top of pic, firewall to right side of pic. oil and gunk everywhere.
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From passenger side, rear of engine, distributor to the right of pic, firewall to left. Oil and gunk running down everywhere.
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With it running down from somewhere at the top, all over the transmission and evidently has sprayed onto the firewall, I really am not sure of the source. :pullinghairout:

[jrmunn]

aphaynes,

I followed this thread down from where you found the plugged breather cap. My 1964 GMC with a 305E V6 has a different breather setup that leads to the air cleaner housing, but it does have an in-line filter that plugged up on me and apparently caused pressure to build up in the engine, which led to oil being pumped out the dipstick tube. So this is something else to think about. I remember it made a big mess on the passenger side, but I don't recall it spreading so much to the driver's side of the firewall. Before a more experienced neighbor pointed out what was happening, I had twice replaced valve cover gaskets with no affect on oil loss. After cleaning the breather filter (carburetor cleaner is good for this), the problem went away. Good luck finding the oil leak. I know it is hard to track back through the mess.

jrmunn

[aphaynes]

aphaynes,

I followed this thread down from where you found the plugged breather cap. My 1964 GMC with a 305E V6 has a different breather setup that leads to the air cleaner housing, but it does have an in-line filter that plugged up on me and apparently caused pressure to build up in the engine, which led to oil being pumped out the dipstick tube. So this is something else to think about. I remember it made a big mess on the passenger side, but I don't recall it spreading so much to the driver's side of the firewall. Before a more experienced neighbor pointed out what was happening, I had twice replaced valve cover gaskets with no affect on oil loss. After cleaning the breather filter (carburetor cleaner is good for this), the problem went away. Good luck finding the oil leak. I know it is hard to track back through the mess.

jrmunn

Thanks for the tip. I am still trying to find out how to remove that crankcase filter carriage so I can ensure I get it cleaned and unplugged. I can't find anything that shows if it screws into the block or is some sort of press fit. I don't want to damage it as it is apparently hard to find and I can't get a good view of it where it is located. :helpsign:

At work, someone also suggested oil could be coming from distributor seal. I had not considered that but might as well take a good look at it while I am in there.

[Culver Adams]

(someone also suggested oil could be coming from distributor seal)

Hi Aphaynes,

Experimenting with alternatives to original road draft crankcase vent tube a 1965 Chevy 235 I6 engine, I closed off road draft crankcase vent tube. There was enough pressure in the crankcase to blow oil (like a gusher) up the space between distributor shaft and the vertical bored hole in which it is placed. The oil left the engine and went out to the world between the engine block and distributor flange. I opened up the crankcase vent again and, of course, the oil stayed where it belonged: thank you, gravity.

Suggests to me your clogged crankcase vent may be related to gushing oil.

Hope this helps, Here's hoping for a quick fix, and Regards,

Culver

[aphaynes]

(someone also suggested oil could be coming from distributor seal)

Hi Aphaynes,

Experimenting with alternatives to original road draft crankcase vent tube a 1965 Chevy 235 I6 engine, I closed off road draft crankcase vent tube. There was enough pressure in the crankcase to blow oil (like a gusher) up the space between distributor shaft and the vertical bored hole in which it is placed. The oil left the engine and went out to the world between the engine block and distributor flange. I opened up the crankcase vent again and, of course, the oil stayed where it belonged: thank you, gravity.

Suggests to me your clogged crankcase vent may be related to gushing oil.

Hope this helps, Here's hoping for a quick fix, and Regards,

Culver

Awesome! That to me is what looks like has been happening...gusher....the way it has covered the rear end of the engine, the trans housing, the firewall, etc. etc. I am trying to figure out now how to safely remove that so I can get it all cleaned up and get the gunk out of that center hole without sending it into the block. It appears to be a press fit, but it must be in their pretty tight. Of course the gunk is probably gluing it in. LOL.

Thanks for the tips guys. Hopefully i can report good some good news when everything is cleaned up and put back together. Unfortunately, I'll be getting home to late tonight to do anything with it.

[aphaynes]

So the Crankcase Filter housing won't budge from the block after fighting with it for several hours. The center hole that allows air into the engine is completely clogged. I would just knock the stuff out of that hole, but then it is going to go into the engine. Evidently with the engine still in the truck there is no good way to get a grip or leverage on it to break it loose. Maybe a shop vac while breaking the crud in the center loose, followed by dumping the oil and pulling the pan to get any crud out that falls in? Seems like a lot of hassle for a part that should not be so difficult to remove.

Maybe cooling the area with something to get the metal breather housing portion to contract?

[Culver Adams]

I thought I had one with the tranny pics but nope.

Its a hard very immovable steel pipe that pokes down the back of the engine. If you crawl under the truck for any reason it will seek out sore spots and poke you in them, usually around the temples and ears. Oh, and it drips oil too so you get a nice coating of facepaint as a bonus.
:takethat:

Its not my favorite feature lol.

---
Hi Fetch and AP,

Attached, from "1960-1966 Chev/GMC Truck Factory Assembly Instruction Manual" is a drawing of crankcase road draft ventilation tube, also called crankcase vent and, among those with first hand experience, facepaint application tube. In drawing, it is labeled "Ventilator Assy." It is shown on the passenger side of a straight six engine. (The drawing does not show the cleverly concealed face-seeking mechanism on the lower end of the vent tube.)

Other versions replaced the open-to-the-road downdraft tube with a positive crankcase vent (pcv) valve and smaller tube to the intake manifold.

Regards and Hope this helps,

Culver

[aphaynes]

Thanks Culver. Unfortunately, I do not have a downdraft tube. My setup is just like what is shown on the club page <br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br>

Here is the location of the item. Unfortunately, not so easy to handle with the engine in the truck. easy to change the filter though if that was all I needed to do right now. :D
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[Culver Adams]

Thanks Culver. Unfortunately, I do not have a downdraft tube. My setup is just like what is shown on the club page <br><font color='red'>To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic?</font><br>

Here is the location of the item. Unfortunately, not so easy to handle with the engine in the truck. easy to change the filter though if that was all I needed to do right now. :D
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Hi AP,

From your post #44 I followed your link and I figured you might have a crankcase ventilation filter similar to NAPA's FIL 2718. In post #42, Fetch wrote, "...about the fitler though. Mine is road draft ventilation tubed." Then in post # 43, you wrote about that, "Got a pic of that? ...I know you do." And he responded, "I thought I had one with the tranny pics but nope. Its a hard very immovable steel pipe that pokes down the back of the engine..."

Putting 2 and 2 together and not coming up with an answer, I figured you were tired of pouring perfectly good carb cleaner into a black hole and might be looking for a way to scrap modern technology by going back to the good old days. Which, parenthetically, is precisely where I would be. And, like you, I would get out the torch. After I melted most of the crankcase ventilation filter's housing, I would thank the stars for confirming my battle plan i.e. reinvention/adaptation of the road draft vent. Hence the drawing makes perfect sense to me. If your luck with removal of existing is good or better, "Hats off" I say, followed by an apology for the confusion ;=) .

Regards and Good or better luck torching,

Culver

[aphaynes]

Hi AP,

Putting 2 and 2 together and not coming up with an answer, I figured you were tired of pouring perfectly good carb cleaner into a black hole and might be looking for a way to scrap modern technology by going back to the good old days. Which, parenthetically, is precisely where I would be. And, like you, I would get out the torch. After I melted most of the crankcase ventilation filter's housing, I would thank the stars for confirming my battle plan i.e. reinvention/adaptation of the road draft vent. Hence the drawing makes perfect sense to me. If your luck with removal of existing is good or better, "Hats off" I say, followed by an apology for the confusion ;=) .

Regards and Good or better luck torching,

Culver

:D to funny. All info is greatly appreciated!
Yes I have been considering a change to either the older days of the road draft or newer days with tubes going to valve covers, etc., etc. Heck if odd stuff like this keeps up and with parts hard to find, I may have to take on the idea of a whole new modern engine. :jaw-dropping:

LOL...just a frustrating little bump in the road right now. I thought I would be done with this leaking business and be on to fixing up other issues. Oh well. At least I'm learning as I go! :woo:

Fetch - as for my little assistant and namer of truck, well...she saw a spider in the cab and won't go near it now. LOL. I have to "fumigate it" before she will get in it again. :D

[jrmunn]

AP,

You may have a big enough audience on this thread to get feedback from someone who understands where the crud would go if you were able to break it up and some fell into the engine. If it goes straight to the pan bottom (below pump pickup and moving parts) without plugging any oil channels, would there be a problem? If you go the shop vac route, the bottom will probably fall into the engine before you get it all. My luck would be that I would also drop a tool into the hole. I am really surprised that carburetor cleaner does not soften it up, because it works really well on the much smaller amounts of crud on the little screen in my tube leading from the engine to the air cleaner.

jrmunn

[BarryGMC]

There is a brass mesh in the tube. Blast it with Carb cleaner and then run some diesel through the hole to flush it out the oil drain.

[aphaynes]

There is a brass mesh in the tube. Blast it with Carb cleaner and then run some diesel through the hole to flush it out the oil drain.


Well alrighty then! I haven't seen anything that talked about mesh being in there. Many thanks! :tiphat: I was about to try to get that stuff out last night. On that note, I guess I don't need to remove the whole housing. Thanks again! :thumbsup:

[BarryGMC]

While you are at it you should check the PVC valve. That's really why your engine is pressurizing. It needs vacuum to pull through the breather. While your at it put some new valve cover gaskets in. Glue them to the covers with black rtv. This lets you pull the covers with ease. Then check the valve lash hot. .012 intake, .018 exhaust. This is a big problem I have found with these old boys, to little lash. Finally find someone with a dwell meter and a vacuum guage and set the timing. I bet there is some old timer in northern Alabama with these tools and the know his to use them. Lastly when ever I think of the rural south I think of the movie deliverance. I bet you think of my neck of the woods and think randy weaver and the order. It's a draw. But we have better old rigs. Barry

[BarryGMC]

I hate my I pad it spell checks for me and is often wrong. It's Pcv valve. Try it you will see.

[aphaynes]

While you are at it you should check the PVC valve. That's really why your engine is pressurizing. It needs vacuum to pull through the breather. While your at it put some new valve cover gaskets in. Glue them to the covers with black rtv. This lets you pull the covers with ease. Then check the valve lash hot. .012 intake, .018 exhaust. This is a big problem I have found with these old boys, to little lash. Finally find someone with a dwell meter and a vacuum guage and set the timing. I bet there is some old timer in northern Alabama with these tools and the know his to use them. Lastly when ever I think of the rural south I think of the movie deliverance. I bet you think of my neck of the woods and think randy weaver and the order. It's a draw. But we have better old rigs. Barry

Whew! :postgood: Well you lost me after pull the valve covers, but I will figure it out. :D A new phase of learning on this journey. :woo:

Carb kit arrived today so got that back together and set aside until it can be put back on the engine. Got the head set gasket kit as well, so I can get the ones I know are leaking ... and the valve covers to boot. Now .... off to go do some research on checking valve lash!

[Foley]

I bet you think of my neck of the woods and think randy weaver and the order. It's a draw. But we have better old rigs. Barry

Randy Weaver and Ruby Ridge, Naples, ID. Randy Weaver was my hero! He fought the Feds and ultimately won. However, the price he paid was enormous.

[aphaynes]

Well just about got this thing clean today. I can see that shiny brass now. :)

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The only way I can check the progress on it is using my cell phone camera to look at it. Just can't get my eyeballs directly on it. :ahhhh:

Well, to have worked on this thing most of the day, I don't seem to have gotten to far. :( Seems to take me forever to get all the old gasket material off the manifolds. Must have been super glued on there. :pullinghairout: Also pulled the valley pan and got all the bubbly paint off of it and cleaned that gasket area with shopvac in on hand and rags stuffed in all openings to keep junk out of the engine.

Decided to pull the distributor in case oil was blowing through there as Culver had suggested. I had really expected there to be a gasket or o-ring where the distributor sits on the block that would need replacing, but there wasn't. Am I mistaken on this assumption or did someone prior mess up by not putting one there???

Also, what's the best way to prep the intake manifold for paint, since the current paint job is flaking off? Note: I do not have access to any type of media blaster.

BarryGMC - may be a dumb question, but hey, I never claimed to be smart! :)
When I get to a point where I can check the valve lash, it seems as you stated, that has to be done with the engine hot. So do you pull the covers and let it run with them off, or let it get hot then attempt to pull the covers?

[BarryGMC]

One of the first thing I do if the truck runs poorly is go through the carb, and check the ignition. Then I put valve cover gaskets in because most of them leak. If it has a Pcv valve like yours I clean it out. I do the oil change and run it a bit. It usually runs better. Most of the time though it's not running quite right. A miss or an occasional pop through the carb. This is when I check the lash on a solid lifter rig. And yes I pull the covers off hot. But since I already had them off once its easy. Then if it still has symptoms you can more easily narrow it down. I also some were in that process power wash the engine and trans. It really depends on the weather here though. Here there are 4 or 5 months that's not practical. With a clean and good running engine I then can. Look for any oil leaks as I shake down the rig. Honestly besides the valve cover gaskets the only places that usually really leak oil are the front and rear main seals. At this point I use the engine and start to take note of any other symptoms such as oil use or smoke. Then I go through a whole other process. Barry

[Andice]

Well, I am a little late to the party but here is an image of the breather filter canister. Looks like it is pressed in place. Probably very hard to remove because of its location. Glad you got the "clog" resolved. I never would have known there is a mesh filter in there!

[aphaynes]

Thanks BarryGMC for laying all that out there for me! :tiphat:

Last question for now. :). Should the distributor have an oring where it sits on the block?

Going to be raining here the next couple of days so my playing is on hold. :(

[bigblockv6]

No oring is used, just a thin circular gasket that usually comes with an engine gasket set. I doubt you can buy it alone, most likely you would have to make your own gasket.

[aphaynes]

No oring is used, just a thin circular gasket that usually comes with an engine gasket set. I doubt you can buy it alone, most likely you would have to make your own gasket.

Thanks! When I pulled the distributor it didn't have anything and neither did the gasket set I bought. Thought that was odd.

[bigblockv6]

I bought a FelPro set for my 478, it came with the distributor gasket and also bought a few off brand sets that were compiled with either Victor or Felpro that didn't include the distributor gasket. I like the FelPro gasket set because it's so complete they even included two 4bbl carb gaskets for the optional dealer installed 4bbl manifold.

[aphaynes]

Thanks. I got the Fel-Pro as well, but only got the Head Set portion. Should have gone ahead and got the full set I suppose. I'm sure I'll need them eventually. :ahhhh:

[aphaynes]

Pulled the valve covers today. Looks pretty gunked in there.

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Should I attempt to clean it now or put something in with the oil when it is back together, run it and drain oil again?

On the other side, I noticed this wire coming out of the firewall and just dangling. :ahhhh: Any idea what it goes to?

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[FetchMeAPepsi]

I can't say on the wire, but for the sludge I put this in one of our older cars. Run it for a few hundred miles then do an oil change, then do another dose and oil change. Clean as a whistle :thumbsup:

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[klausz]

Hi the wire goes onto the fan motor under the heater unit,hard to see from the top.

[aphaynes]

I can't say on the wire, but for the sludge I put this in one of our older cars. Run it for a few hundred miles then do an oil change, then do another dose and oil change. Clean as a whistle :thumbsup:

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Thanks Fetch! I'll check that out.

Changed the PCV valves under the valve covers just for kicks since I was already in there and they are cheap. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the pieces I have pulled while chasing my oil leak sources painted. Still have a little paint on the valve covers to get off. I got a little ill tempered over some inaccurate HOA citations I received today and called it quits...and they have not even seen me working on the truck yet. LOL.

Wish I could repaint the whole engine since it is flaking everywhere, but no means to pull the whole thing out...future project. :) Looks like "they" did a quick spray of the whole thing without any real prep. As I get flaking paint off, I see what looks like remains of older paint & grease.

[aphaynes]

Hi the wire goes onto the fan motor under the heater unit,hard to see from the top.

Thanks! :tiphat: I wondered if that was the case, but couldn't see an obvious connection. Since that wire is disconnected and the heater hoses are not even going to the assembly, I have to wonder what is wrong with the system and how to test it...time for more research...once I get the engine back together. :helpsign: :)
The levers in the cab are snapped as well from rusting behind the panel. So got to find those levers and knobs as well. :runforthehills:

[aphaynes]

Had a little fun trying my hand at rattle can painting today. :woo:

Now, even though someone painted my engine chevy orange, I decided that even though I can't pull the engine and paint the whole thing, I would at least go back to the GMC red on the parts I pull as I work on this thing. Maybe one day the whole thing will be red again....but..... :D

Having grown up in and spent 90% of my life in GA, even though I am in AL now, while painting all that red, the Georgia Bulldog fan in me came out and I had to throw in some black! :jaw-dropping:

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Just got to get my bride to paint those GMC letters red!

As for painting, I kind of like my creative parts hanger.

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Now I can get all this stuff baked tomorrow and start getting her back together. :bigdance:

[BarryGMC]

I usually wash down the sludge with kerosene and a parts cleaner brush. Spray it on with a spray bottle. Then pour more to flush it down and out the drain plug. Those levers break because the cables are stiff. I take those cables off and soak them in my old oil barrel and then work the cables in and out. Wipe them down with some lacquer thinner and smooth as silk. No more busted levers. Barry

[aphaynes]

I usually wash down the sludge with kerosene and a parts cleaner brush. Spray it on with a spray bottle. Then pour more to flush it down and out the drain plug. Those levers break because the cables are stiff. I take those cables off and soak them in my old oil barrel and then work the cables in and out. Wipe them down with some lacquer thinner and smooth as silk. No more busted levers. Barry

thanks for the tips Barry! :tiphat: I don't have an old oil barrell...yet, but I'll come up with something to give that tip go!

[aphaynes]

Well, put it back together yesterday afternoon and believe it or not...it cranked right up! :woo: :bigdance:
but...yes there is a but ;)

it idled fine, but when you first press the accelerator it tries to stall. if you immediately let off and repress the accelerator, it revs up just fine. Now I also only did the basic pre-crank setup on the carb. I was cold and it was getting dark, so I left it at that. Plus the Oil filter carriage had oil running down one side of it from the top, so I guess I did not get something seated very well. So unless there is a red flag here to you experts, I assume I just need to re-seat the oil filter carriage (check o-ring/gasket as well) and finish the setup of the carb?

Regardless, it was good to listen to her run for a few minutes after having her opened up since I got her home. :D

Is there a spin-on adapter for these 305's? I have seen some for V8's just not the V6.

[bigblockv6]

There is no spin on adapter but there is a spin on aluminum housing that was introduced in 1966. It was used on 305 through 351 engines as well as the 1973-74 379 V6.

[aphaynes]

While you are at it you should check the PVC valve. That's really why your engine is pressurizing. It needs vacuum to pull through the breather. While your at it put some new valve cover gaskets in. Glue them to the covers with black rtv. This lets you pull the covers with ease. Then check the valve lash hot. .012 intake, .018 exhaust. This is a big problem I have found with these old boys, to little lash. Finally find someone with a dwell meter and a vacuum guage and set the timing. I bet there is some old timer in northern Alabama with these tools and the know his to use them. Lastly when ever I think of the rural south I think of the movie deliverance. I bet you think of my neck of the woods and think randy weaver and the order. It's a draw. But we have better old rigs. Barry

:postgood:
Went ahead and replaced those PCV valves just in case since they are cheap. So a clean Crankcase Ventilation Filter housing with new paper element and new PCV valves. New gaskets on the valley pan and valve covers and intake manifold, and added the missing gasket on the distributor. Also finished the carb setup using Fetch's build thread as a guide. She is idling good, with a hesitation issue mentioned somewhere above, so I won't rehash that. So far no oil leaks from those areas...but I have not driven it yet; just let it idle.

A former neighbor of mine stopped by who knows a whole lot more about cars/trucks than I do. While listening to it run, he also suggested adjusting the valve lash. I'm going to let him assist me with that so I don't screw up anything, having never done it. It sounds easy enough after looking it up and listening to what he said, but I have been known to turn easy jobs into very difficult, incredibly long ones. :jaw-dropping:

I have a short video of the "sounds" of the valves and hesitation but, I don't see many folks posting vids on here.

[aphaynes]

30 second video. Noisy valves and hesitation.
See if this works...

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[BarryGMC]

Get the valves set first. Then we will see how it runs. And proceed from there. Barry

[aphaynes]

Get the valves set first. Then we will see how it runs. And proceed from there. Barry

Planning to get on that tomorrow morning. :runforthehills:

[aphaynes]

Had a comedy of errors Saturday. Had a buddy coming over to guide me through valve lash adjustments. Fired up the truck before he got there to find that I had fuel dripping were the fuel filter connects to the carb. Pulled the fitting between the two, put some sealer on the threads and reinstalled. Feared I may have something causing issues in the float bowl area, so I opened up the carb again and inspected. The needle connected to the float seemed to be sticking. Had to actually back out the fitting the needle goes into to get it to move freely. ???
Got it all back together. Fired it back up and the line was not leaking...but...yes, that ugly but again...:buttkick:
The top gasket on the carb was letting out fuel. Really confused now... I knew I needed to open it back up to see what was happening with the float and the accelerator pump rod, but my help for valve lash had arrived.

So, while placing a few rags to catch leaking fuel, we went ahead and proceeded with adjustments. I have spark plugs and wires on the way, but we pulled the ones that were in there to find they were quite ugly black and very wide in gap. Went ahead and adjusted them according to the manual, just to make do with them until the new ones get here. A while later, we had all valves dialed in to the 0.012H and 0.018H as recommended by Barry and 1965 Motor's Truck Manual I picked up off ebay.
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My helper noticed my heater unit had beeen bypassed...next thing I know we have that off the truck and torn apart. Simple low pressure test with the garden hose did not reveal any leaks in the core, but I am sure I need to have that tested better. We did learn the blower motor is completely froze up, but at least the squirrel cage is still in good shape. So some more to add to my to do list and my wish list.

After my help left, I opened the carb...again! :runforthehills: The float appeared to be ok, not sticking. When I removed the accelerator pump rod, I decided to take a peak down in the cylinder it sits in to see what that little ball was up to. To my surprise it was gone! :ahhhh: Where the heck did it go?!? I know it was in there when I initially rebuilt the carb. Surely it did not just fly out when I opened it earlier that day....did it? After deciding I was not going to solve that mystery, I knew I had a spare, so I put it in, reassembled and all was well with the carb once again. :woo: Also, on this third reassembly, I took note of some various measurements on the carb kit instructions I had not thrown away. The accelerator pump rod had more movement when pressing the accelerator than what was spec'd. So adjusted that. Not sure which part of this process fixed my hesitation when pressing the accelerator, but it now seems to be a non-issue. :woo:

With no apparent oil leaks from the areas I had been working on the past few weeks, and no fuel leaks, we took a spin around the neighborhood. Got back and still no leaks!! :thumbsup: It was not a long trip, but ran through the gears fine. Sunday, took a peek under the truck to see two small drops of oil on my cardboard. Could be left over oil from previous leaks. Won't know for sure until I clean all of the remaining old stuff off that remains from the major leaks when i got her home.

All in all, I am sure there is still a lot I need to check/test, but the past few weeks of part time working on this were fun, and she seems to be in better shape now than she was when I got her home, so I guess the learning experience is paying off. :D

[aphaynes]

Plugs and wires arrived, in and indexed!

Next...not sure. Got blue smoke when she first cranks and black smoke on acceleration. Guess I need to make some adjustments for the black smoke. The blue I expect is beyond what I can do in my driveway if it is rings or something of that nature.

Off this Friday so I will take her to the court house to get her tag so I can enjoy driving her around a bit. :)

[BarryGMC]

If the blue is worse when you first start it it's probably the valve guide seals. These engines use the same little o rings as Chevy small blocks. Every one is usually hard and cracked. It's kind of a pain but you can change them with the heads on. Good job on the motors manual. Those are handy. Barry

[aphaynes]

If the blue is worse when you first start it it's probably the valve guide seals. These engines use the same little o rings as Chevy small blocks. Every one is usually hard and cracked. It's kind of a pain but you can change them with the heads on. Good job on the motors manual. Those are handy. Barry

Yep, it is blue when first cranked and fades away fairly quickly while idling. When reving it up black appears.

I wasn't sure how handy that book would be, but it seems to have a lot of good info in there in the GMC section.

[BarryGMC]

I am going to hijack your thread for a moment. I am a firm believer in obtaining as much info on repairing and maintaining our old rigs as possible. Repair and service manuals are the first place people should reference . Not the internet. Unless it's to find the books. To often we end up chasing modifications that are spread as gospel in the forums, when we should simply be maintaining and repairing and enjoying our trucks. These trucks were built to be reliable and simple. And if they are in reasonable condition are both. People are always amazed when they ride in an old rig of mine at how they operate. Yes a few have the morning blues or are a little cold blooded. And most are not what anyone would call restored. Heck today the boy and I hauled 24 sheets of 4 x12 1/2 rock to a job with the 65. But they are all safe and steady. Back to the books. Here is my oldest and surprisingly still relevant old guy.

[aphaynes]

I hear ya! Even though I have acquired a couple of manuals and such since acquiring the truck, I catch myself searching online for something before the light bulb goes off and I remind myself to go look at those books I just purchased. They weren't meant to be dust collectors. :)

[aphaynes]

Well, three trips to town and back in her and she seems to be running well! :woo:
The last two of wich were to get her registered and go to one of those self service car washes to blast all of the residual oil off that i could. 24 hours later, i checked my cardboard to find.........NO LEAKS!:jaw-dropping: ...yet. :)

Took the heater controls and cables out since all 3 levers are broke. Soaking the cables as Barry suggested. Had to oil up the hinges in the duct work as they felt stiff as well. Discovered my defrost duct was missing going to the drivers side. Whenever i get new levers, that will be ready to put back in. Still need a blower motor as well.

Next i plan to start troubleshooting and modifying my light wiring (head light and parking) based on suggestions i have discovered here.

[WDShaffer]

Finally got her home!

Brake lights are iffy...sometimes one comes on sometimes two. Wiring check in order as well.

More than likely, it is the turn signal cancellation in the steering column. The plastic bits are a common failure. There is a whole discussion about that elsewhere in the site.

[Vernski]

These are funny critters I replaced the flasher last year and it just sat over the winter and tried my turn signals. They didn't work and after checking everything out it needed a new flasher, oh well...Vernski:poke:

[aphaynes]

More than likely, it is the turn signal cancellation in the steering column. The plastic bits are a common failure. There is a whole discussion about that elsewhere in the site.

Thanks. I'll hunt for that. I have found several wiring articles on the club portion of the site. Yesterday afternoon was spent hanging out in the storm shelter. Looks like we may get to do that again later today...oh boy! Then I'll be out of town for the weekend, so my troubleshooting tasks keep getting put on hold. :(

[aphaynes]

These are funny critters I replaced the flasher last year and it just sat over the winter and tried my turn signals. They didn't work and after checking everything out it needed a new flasher, oh well...Vernski:poke:

It's funny you say that. After getting her home, I opened the glove box to find about half a dozen flashers ... and they were all different. I'm not sure what was going on there. :)

Right now headlights and taillights work, though on the low beams driver side light is pretty dim. Both rear turn signals work, but when I turn on the left turn signal, the dash indicator is intermittent and the front signal does nothing...yes, the bulb is good. ;) When I turn on the right signal, the dash indicator does nothing, but the front signal may work or it may not. I assume some loose connections somewhere. Maybe that is what WDShaffer was referring to.

[Schroer1962v3000Dump]

It's funny you say that. After getting her home, I opened the glove box to find about half a dozen flashers ... and they were all different. I'm not sure what was going on there. :)

Right now headlights and taillights work, though on the low beams driver side light is pretty dim. Both rear turn signals work, but when I turn on the left turn signal, the dash indicator is intermittent and the front signal does nothing...yes, the bulb is good. ;) When I turn on the right signal, the dash indicator does nothing, but the front signal may work or it may not. I assume some loose connections somewhere. Maybe that is what WDShaffer was referring to.

Its sounds like more the one non-grounding problem? I have been recently working on mine which hasn't been touched in ten plus years and I have been cleaning all grounding connections and its improving by leaps & bounds. Nice Truck and love the pics

[aphaynes]

Just stumbled on this image in the photo albums section.

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Looks like my housing has more issues than the gasket that was missing. That lower spring was not in my housing and the large washer between it and the filter was actualy on the outside of the housing with the small washer pictured above the bolt. All of the other pieces shown around the large washer are not present. :jaw-dropping:

Who knows what else is not assembled correctly on this beast. :) I am sure I will find out as I continue to work on it through the years.

[Vernski]

The little parts get lost over the years from careless ones that figure it don't need that if it still functions in any manner. GMC put them in there for a reason and leaking may be the result, isn't these little problems fun to cope with?...Vernski:runforthehills:

[aphaynes]

The little parts get lost over the years from careless ones that figure it don't need that if it still functions in any manner. GMC put them in there for a reason and leaking may be the result, isn't these little problems fun to cope with?...Vernski:runforthehills:

It does keep the journey interesting :ahhhh:

[WDShaffer]

I assume some loose connections somewhere. Maybe that is what WDShaffer was referring to.

Actually, what I refer to, and what I experienced, is a broken return cancellation cam that left the stop lamp circuit open after cancellation of the turn signal...until I "jiggle the handle".

[BarryGMC]

Most of the time you will find dirty contacts or a bad wire in the switch. Here is the inside of one.

Tech

[aphaynes]

Most of the time you will find dirty contacts or a bad wire in the switch. Here is the inside of one.

Tech

Thanks for the pics! :thumbsup:
Horn does not work either. I know I need to check the relay on that as well; but with each circuit that comes from the steering column acting squirrely, I will start there and work back. Did they have turn signal cancellation in the column back then also? That does not work either if they did.

[BarryGMC]

They self cancel. You should just get a new switch, the canceling arms are broke. Now rumor has it you can find switches that are a direct replacement for the gmc. I have never seen one other than nos. but maybe there is. I don't buy repop parts other than window and door rubbers. If you look at a thread started by gmcnut not to long back we discuss the problem and the solution. Barry

[BarryGMC]

FYI it's his electrical gremlins thread. Barry

[aphaynes]

FYI it's his electrical gremlins thread. Barry

Thanks again Barry! :tiphat:

[aphaynes]

Got my heater levers and knobs in. While putting the unit back together, I noticed the lever on the right had a post on the back and near the front. The one in the front on the main assembly frame has a place for a cable to mount to, but I only had the back three cables on the system when I disassembled it. What am I missing here???

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Got the bench out. That was an easy process.

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Set in the newer seats for a test fit. Going to have to do some sort of fab work if I make them a permanent fixture.

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I can see what Keith was saying about the tank. I could back them up another inch or so roughly, if the tank were out of the cab.

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Luckily at 5'10" and having recently lost 16 pounds, sitting in the drivers seat with the tank still in is not uncomfortable. However, if I do go with this setup, sometime way down the road when I can afford to rework that bed I have already griped about, I can move the tank out of the cab and back the seat up a little.

While all seats were out, I took a peek under the rubber floor. It was not as bad as I thought it might be, but rust is taking hold that needs to be addressed.

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[aphaynes]

I left out the fact that it made yet another trip to town. However, this time when it got back home the radiator had sprung a leak. :(
Hard to say where it is leaking but the pan the radiator is sitting in was full of coolant. Looks like it may be from the front left a few inched from the bottom in the fins area...should have taken a pic.

I assume the stop leak stuff at the auto parts store aren't really worth the time?

Update: Finally got my hands on a timing light to ...well...check the timing. As the engine was starting to warm up the radiator started letting water out of the nipple that would normally have a tube connected to it going to an overflow tank. I would not expect any coolant to come out there unless already warmed up and then not constantly. Rev it up, even more blows out. So I guess I have a problem with the cap seal. Either it is not tightening enough or the gasket on it is no good.

[GMCDAC]

Hi Aphaynes, Silver Seal radiator stop leak works well on small pin holes but I never liked Bars Leak very well. Some old timers claim a raw egg white in the radiator stops small leaks even!

It sounds like your cap is shot and that could be the source of the coolant in the fins. They are designed to release pressure at a pre-set psi. Yours may be stuck in the release position.

In my '55 GMC I just run a 7 lb. cap as I don't want to cause the 59 year old non-reproduced heater core to burst! Even hauling a load it is hard to get it over 180* so it seems sufficient. The V-6 experts here will recommend a cap pressure. On race cars we would run a 22-24 lb. cap. They may use higher pressure caps yet nowadays.

DAC

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Yesterday afternoon was spent hanging out in the storm shelter. Looks like we may get to do that again later today...oh boy!:(

I just got one of those installed. They're so COOL! Makes a great oil changing pit too :giggity:


The radiator hole, I had this problem and the old timers told me "Get it fixed and don't waste your money on magic". You can do what I did and buy some silver core solder and a propane torch, then fix it yourself for fun. Or you can take it to any radiator place and they'll re-core it, clean it out, and fix the leaks for about $100 - 150. Usually same day too.

[aphaynes]

I just got one of those installed. They're so COOL! Makes a great oil changing pit too :giggity:

I thought about that as they were lowering it into the garage floor last year. :D Have not actually tried to use it as such yet though. :lolflag:

I am pretty confident now that the leak is just the radiator cap not doing its job properly and lack of overflow tank allowing it to drip all over the radiator misguiding my initial impression. :(

Will put a new one on there with the correct pressure rating to make sure though.

[BarryGMC]

If you overfilled the radiator it will belch a bit.! I have never seen a storm shelter hopefully you don't use it often.,

[aphaynes]

If you overfilled the radiator it will belch a bit.! I have never seen a storm shelter hopefully you don't use it often.,

Only have to use it a couple of times a year. Ever since the April 27 2011 flurry of tornadoes, if the siren goes off, we get in. :)

Speaking of which...GMCNUT, if you read this, I hope you fared ok last week. I saw where one might have been pushing close to your town.

Well, I "was" confident that it was just the cap. However, as I was leaving for work this morning, I saw a nice puddle of water under the front end of the truck. Water was actually dripping from the bumper where the frame is attached to it (driver's side). I assume the radiator is dripping and running down the frame to the bumper then dripping to the driveway as the pan the radiator sits in was full of water as well. Oh well, another unexpected job/expense. :bbeer:

[aphaynes]

Haven't had time to mess with it this week, but last night when I got home, I got out teh flashlight. Looks like, in addition to teh cap issue, the left side if you are facing the grill) is leaking around the fins.

[BarryGMC]

Bummer. The aluminum ones are a good option.. here is one in a 60.

[aphaynes]

Bummer. The aluminum ones are a good option.. here is one in a 60.

Had not budgeted for a new radiator. Is there a good source online...cheap? :)

[BarryGMC]

200.00 to 300.00 . That one is in my bud Larry's 60. It was about 300.00. I have used the aluminum in a few jeep projects and really like them. You may also find some one local to check it and maybe repair yours. I will also find out where Larry got his. Barry.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I've seen them at 175 on Ebay, but they're mexican made. Remember, $100 bucks and you can repair the old brass one. They're not as common anymore but easily repaired.

On the turn signal, I got all my stuff out today and started my project but I'm short on some parts. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can order them, but if you're still interested I should have something to ship you a few days after that.

:)

Sorry for the delay!

:runforthehills:

[GMCDAC]

Haven't had time to mess with it this week, but last night when I got home, I got out teh flashlight. Looks like, in addition to teh cap issue, the left side if you are facing the grill) is leaking around the fins.

Now that your cap holds pressure, some weak links can appear in the radiator.
If it is just a couple of leaky tubes, as Barry said, a radiator shop may be able to do an affordable repair. Sometimes they will just "pinch off" the bad tube cutting it and soldering the pinched ends and eliminate it from flowing coolant.

I have a brass radiator in my '72 GMC that was in a race car back in the early 1980s that the fan hit. There are probably 7 or 8 tubes pinched and soldered and it has been in my truck since around 1989!

I am probably going to break down and order the one in this Amazon link for my '55 GMC. $220 free shipping. There may be some radiators on there that will fit your truck.

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DAC

[aphaynes]

Thanks for the guidance guys. Dropped off the radiator and heater core this morning for testing/repair. Hopefully it can be accomplished at a price that is worth it versus buying new.

Fetch - got a pm coming your way in a little while.

[aphaynes]

Only had a couple of hours to get anything done on the truck this weekend, so other than pulling the radiator, I decded to take out the old rubber floor mat and get ready to put the 40/20/40 seats in I acquired.

So, i pulled these pieces on both sides...

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...to reveal this unexpected rust.

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Not a body guy, so I don't know what needs to be done to repair those sections. Weld in new rocker panels? Patch pieces?

Went on to discover a few more holes under the rubber mat.

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I found this odd...was tar paper a source of sound deadner back in the day? applied to the floor with tar?

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I would like to take care of the floors issues before putting the seats in, but I need to haul a few things before the end of the week, so I'll be putting in the seats and pulling them back out later to address the ventilation issues...if the radiator can be salvaged. :jaw-dropping:

[FetchMeAPepsi]

I didn't have any of that newfangled tar sound suppressant installed. Prolly cost extra! :D

For the rust, take it down to bare metal with a wire wheel then spray Ospho on it to convert any microscopic pieces you missed. Then put primer or clear coat on it if youre dealing with it later.
The main thing is to get the rust thats on there off.
Then keep oxygen and moisture from getting to it again. I'm using Herculiner on my floor. It feels great on the feet (rubbery and textured) but I'm playing with Por 15 in a few weeks so I might go with that first, then herculiner as a top coat. i'm still undecided but it will end up with a herculiner top.

WDShaffer helped me with my painting questions. I think he does (or did) that kinda stuff for a living.

For holes, you just gotta weld them up or hire a kid to do it. Lots of young welders will work for pennies. If you think the holes are too huge you can buy repop (reproduction) pieces but I hear they're thinner and tough to cut to the right shape.

[aphaynes]

I'm using Herculiner on my floor. It feels great on the feet (rubbery and textured) but I'm playing with Por 15 in a few weeks so I might go with that first, then herculiner as a top coat. i'm still undecided but it will end up with a herculiner top.

WDShaffer helped me with my painting questions. I think he does (or did) that kinda stuff for a living.


Didn't think about Herculiner for a fancy rubbery feel. Might be to posh posh for me. ;)

A guy here at work who has a few '69 Mustangs, '55 Fairlane, and '59 F100...yes he's a Ford guy...:poke:...loves POR15. Their ads say "it will never rust again", but don't they all say that. :D

I picked up some POR15 to give it a shot on the floors, but that is when I thought I just had surface rust and one small hole to contend with; not slightly larger hole and rust in the channels along side the door seals.

Maybe WDShaffer will chime on in this topic :)

[BarryGMC]

Do you have a welder? Or a bud with one. Welding sheet metal is easy. Especially in places you can't see. Get a small grinder and some cut off wheels and cut out the crud and patch in new. Here is an hour of my life solving a problem.

[aphaynes]

Do you have a welder? Or a bud with one. Welding sheet metal is easy. Especially in places you can't see. Get a small grinder and some cut off wheels and cut out the crud and patch in new. Here is an hour of my life solving a problem.

Nice! I do not. If I acquired one would it be a MIG welder?

[BarryGMC]

A mig is nice. But gas works well with a bit of practice.especially on floors and trunks. I will give some tips later this week. I am in the middle of rental flip. Go gonzaga.

[aphaynes]

A mig is nice. But gas works well with a bit of practice.especially on floors and trunks. I will give some tips later this week. I am in the middle of rental flip. Go gonzaga.

Cool! :thumbsup:
No rush, though I'll be looking forward to it. I'll be slammed for a while myself. Heading to Dallas, TX this weekend, then maybe Savannah, GA, and have to head up/over to NC at some point.

Should get word on my radiator today. It was soaking in an acid bath at 4:30pm yesterday.

Got my seats bolted in. Of course, when I get a weekend to myself, they will come out again to tend to these rusty floor issues. The seat fit pretty good with the fuel tank still in the cab. :ahhhh: Of course if I were any taller, the tank would definitely have to be moved. I did have to make 4 standoffs of varying sizes to accommodate the front mounting brackets hanging over were the upper floor pan under the seat dives down to the lower portion where your feet go. Just used some square channel steel tubing for that. No pics, but will shoot some when they are pulled out again.

[aphaynes]

Well, the radiator shop called. Both the radiator and heater core are leaking like a pin cushion under pressure; so, not repairable. :bricks: :aarrgh:
I guess I am in the market for a radiator now :dollarsign::diggingahole:
The heater core can wait for a long while.

[aphaynes]

As stated in another thread...but I wanted to consolidate to my build thread. :)

"I did a lot of wire wheeling, degreasing, and metal prep on my floors. Then gave POR15 a go. I think it turned out good ...for now. When its time to fix things up right and I have learned a lot more, I can go back and cut out the bad spots and properly patch. For now, on the largest hole, I simply coated a piece of metal with the POR and between coats on the floor, screwed it down, and added another coat to everything. Right of wrong, I think I've stopped my floor pan rust for now. "

Some before's and after's are attached...for you Fetch! ;)

With the largest hole shown in black and exposed is after one coat. With the hole covered is after the second coat.

I think the passenger side was in the worst shape due to a leaking heater core at some point in the trucks history. I also learned with all the recent rain that water is getting into the cab where the windshield wiper motor is mounted. So, I guess I need to pull that and put a new seal on it. I see where it is bolted under the dash, but I am not sure how to pull the vented piece between the hood and windshield to disconnect the wiper arms from it.

Also, while rewiring my lights...still in progress, parts should be in today :)...I wanted to pull the white bar part of the grill that wraps around the headlights and has the GMC beneath it, but for the life of me I cannot see how that piece is mounted. Any tips??? The headlight bezels were rusting pretty good on the back side, so I addressed that and figured I might as well pull that whole section while I have it partially apart.

[David R Leifheit]

As stated in another thread...but I wanted to consolidate to my build thread. :)

Also, while rewiring my lights...still in progress, parts should be in today :)...I wanted to pull the white bar part of the grill that wraps around the headlights and has the GMC beneath it, but for the life of me I cannot see how that piece is mounted. Any tips??? The headlight bezels were rusting pretty good on the back side, so I addressed that and figured I might as well pull that whole section while I have it partially apart.

You are going to love this... :)

There are 4 bolts holding that assembly in place. 2 on each side.
They go into it from the backside. I think both bolts each side are accessible from the inside of the front fender well.
Or...
One each side from inside of fender, and one each side from inside the engine compartment.
Its been a while since I removed/replaced one.

[aphaynes]

You are going to love this... :)

There are 4 bolts holding that assembly in place. 2 on each side.
They go into it from the backside. I think both bolts each side are accessible from the inside of the front fender well.
Or...
One each side from inside of fender, and one each side from inside the engine compartment.
Its been a while since I removed/replaced one.

:saywhat: Seriously?!? Am I that blind? :banghead:
Can't wait to get home and confirm this. :toofunny::signthankspin:

My headlight connectors and headlight adjusters should be delivered today as well. This could be a good day :D

[BarryGMC]

There are 4 on each side. 3 under the fender. One under these supports.

[David R Leifheit]

:saywhat: Seriously?!? Am I that blind? :banghead:
Can't wait to get home and confirm this. :toofunny::signthankspin:

My headlight connectors and headlight adjusters should be delivered today as well. This could be a good day :D

I don't know if you are "that blind" but I am that forgetful.
BarryGMC has it correct, there are 4 bolts each side (went out and looked at the spare assembly I have, looking at the trucks would have been a longer walk and I'm lazy... :) )

[aphaynes]

There are 4 on each side. 3 under the fender. One under these supports.

Thanks! I already have the supports pulled from running wire. Should be able to get it off pretty quick. :)

[aphaynes]

So much for quick:ahhhh:
I could not spot those bolts before because they were covered in whatever this is...
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Looks like asphalt or something. Took forever to chip it off to get a rachet on the bolts. :poke:

Help I'm blind...
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Some poor bondo work here. Not sure how this thing took a blow so high but it obviously did.
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[BarryGMC]

Alabama chip seal. Most of these trucks have quite a story so not much surprises me.

[aphaynes]

LOL! Just amazes me how much I did not see when I was looking to buy it. :lolsmack2:
But I am learning a lot that I did not know before. :D

[aphaynes]

Well, with the grill off, I got to do a lot of sanding to smooth out that bondo work. Never knew hand sanding could be so tiring. :ahhhh: Evidently the repair work that was done on it last was done while it was mounted to the truck. The roughest areas of the bondo work that was done was on the lower side of the grill were you can't see it to good when it is mounted. Plus all the white overspray that is on the truck in the pictures above in a previous post were a pretty good clue. :lolsmack2:

After pulling the grill, like the headlight bezels, there was a lot of rust on the back side. Most of it seemed to be barely more than surface rust, but since these grills seem hard to find, I went ahead and POR'd the backside. Sorry Fetch, no "before's". That was done after doing some additional metal straightening. In this pick the braces that hold the headlights had been manipulated back in position. When I removed the grill from the truck, they were still bent down into the grill. Not something you can really fix without removing it from the truck.

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You can see evidence in the same pick, in the lower right corner of where holes were drilled, I assume to pull it straight, and bondo applied.

Here are the headlight buckets, all cleaned and painted with new adjusters.

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Not sure how much I trust those nuts to not come loose.:headscratch:

Happy Father's Day to all the dad's out there! :yourock:

[Andice]

Nice work. I remember doing the same thing to my grille, headlights, etc.

[aphaynes]

Nice work. I remember doing the same thing to my grille, headlights, etc.

Thanks!

[aphaynes]

Well, wifey must be growing to accept this new hobby. She brought me a couple of toys from the flea market::ahhhh:

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The spray gun is a Port Cable PSH1. I guess it is an older gun as info on the internet is a little hard to come by. Should be fun practicing on stuff though...after I do some learning on how to use it. :lolsmack2:
However, the gun states it is rated at 8.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI where as my compressor is only 6.5 SCFM at 40 PSI. Add another upgrade to my to do list. :D

Online Ad:
Porter Cable PSH1 Gravity Feed Spray Gun:
Latest high-volume, low-pressure technology for high output and low overspray
1.5mm nozzle combination
Adjustable fluid and spray controls for precise operation
Lightweight, durable die-cast alloy gun body
Stainless steel fluid inlet and needle;

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Nice prize! I got one too from Eastwood that I'm dying to try out. Interested in seeing the practice shots so I can follow along when I get to that point :thumbsup:

[BarryGMC]

Your compressor will run that fine. It will just need to catch up every few mins.

[BarryGMC]

Man o man you guys are up late.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Man o man you guys are up late.

Yeah, I gotta pick up the Redhead from work in like 5 mins. Teens and jobs. Why can't they ever pick something that ends at 5pm like reg'lar folks?

:threadjacked:

Sorry Aphaynes :D

[aphaynes]

Nice prize! I got one too from Eastwood that I'm dying to try out. Interested in seeing the practice shots so I can follow along when I get to that point :thumbsup:

Ha Ha...considering I don't know zip about using one of these things, it ought to be interesting. I did watch some YouTube videos last night, so I guess that makes me an expert! :ahhhh::lolsmack2:

[aphaynes]

Your compressor will run that fine. It will just need to catch up every few mins.

Good to know. :thumbsup: Guess I'll find out when I find some cardboard or scrap metal to practice on.

Man o man you guys are up late.

Ha! I crashed hard right after that picture post :) Had been under the house fixing pipes.

[WDShaffer]

Well, wifey must be growing to accept this new hobby. She brought me a couple of toys from the flea market

The spray gun is a Port Cable PSH1. I guess it is an older gun as info on the internet is a little hard to come by. Should be fun practicing on stuff though...after I do some learning on how to use it.
However, the gun states it is rated at 8.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI where as my compressor is only 6.5 SCFM at 40 PSI. Add another upgrade to my to do list. :D

Online Ad:
Porter Cable PSH1 Gravity Feed Spray Gun:
Latest high-volume, low-pressure technology for high output and low overspray
1.5mm nozzle combination
Adjustable fluid and spray controls for precise operation
Lightweight, durable die-cast alloy gun body
Stainless steel fluid inlet and needle;

I have a square sander just like that...actually wore out the first, and on my second. :my2cents: It looks like a pressure regulator is attached. You want that and not a "cheater valve" (like a globe valve). Practice with primer on a fender. Acetone is cheap and cleans up the paint gun real good when finished. Your air compressor will keep up with one panel at a time. Then you can use your sanders--keep em flat and moving steady back and forth.

[aphaynes]

Well, budget is tight right now, so not much has been happening since I got the grill back together and headlight wiring complete...

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...so this afternoon I was staring at a pile of left over lumber in the corner of the garage wondering what I'll use it for. Then I walked out to Rusti (my daughters name for the truck) and it hit me...:machinegun:...it will be a long time before I have $$$ for a tailgate, with all the other stuff I need to do to Rusti. For the short term, why not just make one?!? :ahhhh: Surely a truck that is supposed to have a wood bed can handle a wood tailgate...at least for a little while. ;)

So this is the start of it. Nothing is attached to anything at this point. Just cutting pieces to see what I like the look of.

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This particular layout is a mix of 2x4's and 1x8's. We'll have to see how this evolves. :)

Speaking of evolving...or devolving...is that a word??? I had a big chunk of bondo come off my driver door today. Geez. Not sure how long it has been on there, but it revealed a nice crease in the door skin that someone tried to just fill in. I think Rusti is crying out for help. To bad she didn't find a better equipped urgent care facility to call home.

[BarryGMC]

You have a cool truck . Just chisel a way. Little by little. Barry.