Quote:
Originally Posted by AZKen
Oldred, glad you got it running but your whole ignition is not correct.
1.You don't need an electric fuel pump for a GMC V6 with 1 bbl carb. Use the original mechanical pump. (but they are pricey now). I'm amazed you found an electrical fuel pump that would not overpower the carb float needle on that carb. Are you using an electrical to start and then switching to Mechanical? If not, what is the toggle switch for?
2. You should not have "a push button on the starter". I really don't know what that means. Please explain that. The key starts the truck and runs the truck and turns on other things. NO push button anywhere.
3. I don't know where you got and HEI distributor for GMC V6 but would like to know. Did you build an HEI per Jolly's page?
4. A resistance wire or ballast resistor should not be hooked up to an HEI.
5. The proper key switch is 4 position with a momentary spring loaded "start" position. They do make a generic switch like that if you can't find an original.
6. You can damage the HEI and other electrical items.
7. You don't need a tach for a low RPM 1 bbl GMC V6. They are not hot rods.
8. Of course, it's your truck and you can do what you like.
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1. I purchased a carter inline fuel pump, after extensive research online that one allegedly produced ow enough fuel pressure that it wouldn't cause an issue. The mechanical fuel pump I have (I kept the one I removed) would require rebuilding, which is fine, but there are mixed opinions on the reliability of rebuilt parts and several people highlighted frequently failing mechanical pumps they were rebuilding often. Additionally, a lot of people still placed in-line fuel pumps to help with priming their carb from sitting, so I went the route of just placing the electric pump and bypassing using a mechanical all together. The toggle switch I installed is how I turn on the pump, so my key goes to on and then I can switch on the fuel pump separately. This was my poor man's excuse for safety rather than installing in an inertia safety switch in case there was an accident. But as you pointed out, these trucks are not hot rods and I have no intention of doing more than some local easy driving with it.
2. I was using a starter button switch, where you connect one end to the main battery supply at the starter, and the other side to the solenoid on the starter, and push a button to start the truck that way. It bypasses using a key, and is not a permanent thing by any means, just something I was using when first checking for spark, and then again when installing the carb before I hooked up my throttle.
3. Yes, as I highlighted in my initial post, I rebuilt an aftermarket HEI distributor to work with the V6 as described on Jolly's page.
4. There was no resistance wire hooked to the HEI, though I did admittedly run my wire through the fuse panel which I did not realize was incorrect, and have now rectified.
5. I have the proper key switch.
6. I hope I didn't damage anything, some electrical stuff didn't work to begin with when I got the truck, but I think my headlights are the only thing I have electrically not working right now. Haven't gotten that far yet.
7. Only reason I mentioned tach was because there was a second wire I assumed was for a tach. I don't believe my dash even has a tach gauge and I doubt I'll install one.
8. I appreciate the point, and all I want right now is to be able to drive it. I have been trying to work through things but the "learn as you go" part sometimes requires outside expertise and that is where this forum is really a great help. I appreciate you taking the time to respond and if you have any advice on body repair I have several spots that require repair from neglect or poor repair by previous owners. Thanks!