Starts with button, not key

[OldRed]

I completed the swap for my 305 V6 distributor to an HEI as written up on Jolly's site. I installed an aftermarket carb from Amazon (single barrel is a single barrel) and a new gas pedal with a throttle cable to simplify the linkage based on what was under my hood. I installed new wires, plugs, set the timing to roughly 5 degrees BTDC, and used a vacuum gauge to tune the carb as best as I could. I have an inline electric fuel pump, completely bypassed the manual pump and simply toggle on the inline fuel pump a few seconds before I try to start the truck.

I am able to turn my key to on, switch on the fuel pump, and place a starter button on the solenoid and start the truck no problem. I mean it fires RIGHT up, like I am almost surprised every time at how quickly it will start.

However, if I try to use the key inside the truck, it just cranks and does not want to start. I ran a new wire from the fuse box to the distributor, so that it could handle the appropriate flow of electricity to start/run. I never got around to hooking up the tach wire on the distributor though. I did not think that would cause an issue, but maybe it does? Is it possible the engine could run with the tach hooked up, and not the power wire to the distributor? And that's why it only starts when jumping the starter solenoid? That doesn't make sense in my brain but stranger things have happened. Or maybe my ignition switch is bad? When I turn the key though the starter does crank, which I feel like indicates there's a drop in power or something.

I'm open to any suggestions on things to look at or maybe just direction on where to start. I've also been contemplating replacing the fuse panel as mine is not in the best shape, and that could be causing an issue internally that I can't see.

Thanks for the help!

[OldRed]

I can't figure out how to edit my previous post...but I figured I'd mention:

Where the power comes out of the fuse box that goes hot with ignition, I have it split with one wire going to a toggle switch for the fuel pump, and the other wire going to the distributor. I'm thinking maybe I am not able to get enough power directly to the distributor that way when the switch turns things over?

I love electrical things.

[James]

Originally Posted by OldRed

However, if I try to use the key inside the truck, it just cranks and does not want to start.!

It's time for a multimeter. Connect the meter to the starter start stud and see if the is voltage there (probable won't be base on your description) while holding the switch in start. Then Proceed to the firewall connector (I believe it will be on the firewall behind where the original coil use to be). You can back pin it and check for power while holding the switch in start. If still no power, pulling the switch out and back pinning the switch while holding it in start. If still no power, it look like a bad switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch, you could jumper the switch connector to see if the starter turn over. If it does then the switch is bad.

Originally Posted by OldRed

I ran a new wire from the fuse box to the distributor, so that it could handle the appropriate flow of electricity to start/run. I never got around to hooking up the tach wire on the distributor though.

The wire that run from the firewall connector to the original coil is a resistor wire. On my truck I depinned that wire from the connector and installed a solid wire so the power come directly from the ignition switch to the distributor.

If the tach works with the point distributor before, then connecting it to the HEI will be no problem, there is a terminal there just for that and I think the cap show the labeling for the pin out (should be the only one not being use).

[OldRed]

Originally Posted by James

It's time for a multimeter. Connect the meter to the starter start stud and see if the is voltage there (probable won't be base on your description) while holding the switch in start. Then Proceed to the firewall connector (I believe it will be on the firewall behind where the original coil use to be). You can back pin it and check for power while holding the switch in start. If still no power, pulling the switch out and back pinning the switch while holding it in start. If still no power, it look like a bad switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch, you could jumper the switch connector to see if the starter turn over. If it does then the switch is bad.



The wire that run from the firewall connector to the original coil is a resistor wire. On my truck I depinned that wire from the connector and installed a solid wire so the power come directly from the ignition switch to the distributor.

If the tach works with the point distributor before, then connecting it to the HEI will be no problem, there is a terminal there just for that and I think the cap show the labeling for the pin out (should be the only one not being use).

James,

I decided to just run my wire from the distributor directly to the ignition key as you described and my truck started right up! So thank you for the response, I don't know why I didn't do it that way from the start. I will try hooking up the tach wire here soon

Thanks again!

[AZKen]

Oldred, glad you got it running but your whole ignition is not correct.
1.You don't need an electric fuel pump for a GMC V6 with 1 bbl carb. Use the original mechanical pump. (but they are pricey now). I'm amazed you found an electrical fuel pump that would not overpower the carb float needle on that carb. Are you using an electrical to start and then switching to Mechanical? If not, what is the toggle switch for?
2. You should not have "a push button on the starter". I really don't know what that means. Please explain that. The key starts the truck and runs the truck and turns on other things. NO push button anywhere.
3. I don't know where you got and HEI distributor for GMC V6 but would like to know. Did you build an HEI per Jolly's page?
4. A resistance wire or ballast resistor should not be hooked up to an HEI.
5. The proper key switch is 4 position with a momentary spring loaded "start" position. They do make a generic switch like that if you can't find an original.
6. You can damage the HEI and other electrical items.
7. You don't need a tach for a low RPM 1 bbl GMC V6. They are not hot rods.
8. Of course, it's your truck and you can do what you like.

[OldRed]

Originally Posted by AZKen

Oldred, glad you got it running but your whole ignition is not correct.
1.You don't need an electric fuel pump for a GMC V6 with 1 bbl carb. Use the original mechanical pump. (but they are pricey now). I'm amazed you found an electrical fuel pump that would not overpower the carb float needle on that carb. Are you using an electrical to start and then switching to Mechanical? If not, what is the toggle switch for?
2. You should not have "a push button on the starter". I really don't know what that means. Please explain that. The key starts the truck and runs the truck and turns on other things. NO push button anywhere.
3. I don't know where you got and HEI distributor for GMC V6 but would like to know. Did you build an HEI per Jolly's page?
4. A resistance wire or ballast resistor should not be hooked up to an HEI.
5. The proper key switch is 4 position with a momentary spring loaded "start" position. They do make a generic switch like that if you can't find an original.
6. You can damage the HEI and other electrical items.
7. You don't need a tach for a low RPM 1 bbl GMC V6. They are not hot rods.
8. Of course, it's your truck and you can do what you like.

1. I purchased a carter inline fuel pump, after extensive research online that one allegedly produced ow enough fuel pressure that it wouldn't cause an issue. The mechanical fuel pump I have (I kept the one I removed) would require rebuilding, which is fine, but there are mixed opinions on the reliability of rebuilt parts and several people highlighted frequently failing mechanical pumps they were rebuilding often. Additionally, a lot of people still placed in-line fuel pumps to help with priming their carb from sitting, so I went the route of just placing the electric pump and bypassing using a mechanical all together. The toggle switch I installed is how I turn on the pump, so my key goes to on and then I can switch on the fuel pump separately. This was my poor man's excuse for safety rather than installing in an inertia safety switch in case there was an accident. But as you pointed out, these trucks are not hot rods and I have no intention of doing more than some local easy driving with it.

2. I was using a starter button switch, where you connect one end to the main battery supply at the starter, and the other side to the solenoid on the starter, and push a button to start the truck that way. It bypasses using a key, and is not a permanent thing by any means, just something I was using when first checking for spark, and then again when installing the carb before I hooked up my throttle.

3. Yes, as I highlighted in my initial post, I rebuilt an aftermarket HEI distributor to work with the V6 as described on Jolly's page.

4. There was no resistance wire hooked to the HEI, though I did admittedly run my wire through the fuse panel which I did not realize was incorrect, and have now rectified.

5. I have the proper key switch.

6. I hope I didn't damage anything, some electrical stuff didn't work to begin with when I got the truck, but I think my headlights are the only thing I have electrically not working right now. Haven't gotten that far yet.

7. Only reason I mentioned tach was because there was a second wire I assumed was for a tach. I don't believe my dash even has a tach gauge and I doubt I'll install one.

8. I appreciate the point, and all I want right now is to be able to drive it. I have been trying to work through things but the "learn as you go" part sometimes requires outside expertise and that is where this forum is really a great help. I appreciate you taking the time to respond and if you have any advice on body repair I have several spots that require repair from neglect or poor repair by previous owners. Thanks!

[Prowbar]

Glad you got it resolved! Let us know if you have more issues.