'65 GMC 1500 project. From the Netherlands

[Prowbar]

Let me start off with some fantastic news! I managed to score new oil control rings via the company that supplied the piston rings as well!
They only had 4 5.125" x 1/4" rings with expanders left, so they threw in 2 130.5mm (5.138") rings. I installed them and gapped them, needed to open the gaps up somewhat due to the larger bore. Looks like they conformed to the bore pretty good so I'm happy. These bigger rings are plain cast iron, they should break in quickly. They don't have an expander spring but have good wall tension.



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I had already prepped the block for assembly so I was ready to go.
Started with the camshaft that was reground by Mike Jones.



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Installed the NOS main bearings and NOS rubber rear main seal. A small dab of RTV on the seal halves.



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Lifted the massive crankshaft in, a 2 man job. Installed the main caps and paid attention to seal up the rear bearing cap real good.
A dab of RTV in each corner, RTV where the side seals go, anaerobic sealer where the cap meets the block, and assembly lube on crankshaft seal and bearing.



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Crank turns over real smooth, couldn't be happier.

Installed the idler gear and timing cover.



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Then onto pistons. All of them installed real well. Coated bores and rings with engine oil. Staggered the gaps.



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[Prowbar]

I then degreed the cam, as I was curious about the gear set vs the timing chain. I've seen in the manual that all camshaft timing events for the 401/478 occurred 6 degrees later than the 305/351. Made me think they retarded the camshaft 6 degrees with the timing gears. My camshaft had an intake center line of 108 and it installed at 115, so ended up with the cam 7 degrees retarded. That confirms my suspicions there. Should have communicated that to Mike when he ground my cam but oh well.

If I didn't install timing cover I could have tried to install the cam straight up or advance it somewhat by using a offset key or milling in a new keyway slot, but I don't know where the torque peak will be exactly so we'll see.

Retarding the cam moves the torque peak up, a general rule is that 4 degrees retarded moves the torque peak up 200 rpm, meaning I'd be looking at a 350-400 rpm shift on torque peak.

Makes sense for GMC to retard the camshaft in the bigger engines so they can use the same camshaft for all displacements. If all else equal, the bigger displacement with the same cam causes the torque peak to occur sooner, so they retard the cam to compensate.

Installed oil pump, pickup and RTV'd the oil pan spacer to the block. Then installed the oil pan with a cork gasket and RTV.



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Then installed the spin on oil filter housing with the GM 11 psi bypass valve. The bypass presses into the housing, used some green Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I used some sandpaper and the milling machine table to sand the gasket surface flat.



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I ended up with something like this:



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Next up: top end.

[Prowbar]

Picking up where we left off.

Installed the reground lifters from Delta Cams in WA. These are the original lifters with the hardened foot (the best!)



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Installed head gaskets and cylinder heads. I put a little bit of RTV around the port closest to the fire ring for additional sealing.



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Pushrods, rocker arms and valve covers were next on the list to be installed.



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Then installed valley cover and pressure tested the engine for leaks. I consider this to be a very important step as an engine can seemingly leak in a million places, all of them inaccessible when installed.
Using a vacuum cleaner that has the ability for a hose to be attached to the pressure port, you can easily generate a high volume low pressure airstream.



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I used the oil fill cap with the PCV valve removed to pressurize the engine and then used a soapy water solution in a spray bottle to check for bubbles.
At first I wasn't getting any pressure and then found out the engine lost pressure through the intake bolt holes - another potentional leak path!

Be sure to block off canister filter housing, distributor hole, intake bolts, oil filter ports, drain plug.

My leak testing revealed leaks in the cork gasket of the oil pan and the valley cover. Valve covers leaked too, but I had only RTV'd one side of the rubber gasket to the valve cover - need to apply RTV to both sides to get them to seal.

I found out that the distributor has a groove in the shoulder that the clamp tightens onto. In this groove there should be a rubber seal but mine was already gone. I found that an 36x2mm (1.4" ID x 0.080" wire thickness) O-ring fits neatly and eliminates all potential distributor leaks.

Ended up removing the oil pan and omitting the cork gasket altogether, using only RTV to seal them. Switched from the Permatex Right Stuff 1 minute to Permatex Ultra Black and couldn't be happier.

Don't like the 1 minute stuff, but its the only Right Stuff I can get here. Only with the Ultra Black and the apply, finger tight, wait 1 hour, then fully tighten I could seal up the valley cover and oil pan on the first try.



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Knowing the engine was pretty much leak free I could move on to paint.
Earlier I had painted the engine in parts. Since GMC from the factory painted them in one go I figured I'd do the same. VHT Ford Red is the color of choice.



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The next day I installed the accessories (motor mounts, front balancer, exhaust manifolds and locks) I didn't bother repainting exhaust manifolds because the old paint flaked off quickly and made a mess in the engine bay. I like the way they are now. I had someone laser cut some new exhaust bolt locks (I have the 2D file of you need it)

Then I took the engine off the stand and installed bellhousing, clutch fork, flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate. I'm using a McLeod clutch I picked up second hand. Its sintered on one side and organic on the other and should hold all the torques

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This clutch is a drop in fit on my modified flywheel! No fussing with the clutch hub protruding too much.



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The original 11" clutch with Borg and Beck pressure plate would slip from time to time.

Then installed the wiring harness, coil and coil bracket and installed the engine. I lost the starter bolts (I'll find 'em) which meant I have to install starter later

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Oh well.



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478 V6 is in, couldn't be happier how this all turned out. Can't wait to continue the work and start her up for the first time!

Merry Christmas everyone!

[Jim A]

Video of that start up when it comes, please.

[Prowbar]

Coming up in a couple of days if the Lord is willing!