1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy) [Archive] - Page 2

FetchMeAPepsi

September 8th, 2013, 04:51 AM

Today was the big removal. I ran down to NAPA and spoke to the same...humanoid.... that I ordered the parts from. He made it all the way to Assistant Manager so by golly he's got to have something rolling around in his noggin right? :noway:

After telling me on the phone that the order was in he turned right around and told me he'd have to check on it because it wasn't showing up as delivered. Powder puff and I waited over an hour for him to get his crap together and stop playing Solitaire on the computer only to have him say, "I' sorry but tha c'putah dont tell us when tha' order aint in. It jus' didn't go in I guess. I put it in right away an' it gonna be here on Toosdee. I'll have it here waitin on ya."

Yeah right. So I shot him and made him into a seat cover. :ahhhh:

In my head anyway. Instead I said, "Well if that's what we have to do we'll be back Tuesday. See you then." Then I expounded on his questionable ancestry once I got back in the car.

So with that over and my head all hot I headed back to get started pulling bolts again. That tranny gunk is a bear to get off. I'm thinking it's worse than the spray-bed liner I'm putting on everything. I use that GoJo orange hand cleaner and it barely gets it off with alot of scrubbing. If you guys have anything better let me know what it is.

We started by procrastinating again. Powder Puff wanted to put the emblems back on that The Redhead hand painted for us. I want to see how the paint lasts in the weather this winter anyway so I agreed. I got them started then she took over.

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After horsing around a little I got back under there. I put a 3/8 inch wrench on the two bottom bolts that are inside the bellhousing. They're facing opposite the top two bolts. The position was awkward so I used a hammer to get them started unscrewing.

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With the last bolt almost out I put a jack under the transmission, centered under the drain hole (plug still out). They make special jacks for this but I didn't have any trouble with a regular one.

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The jack has wheels so it was easy to scoot the tranny and jack backward together to get it unplugged from the bellhousing and engine.

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Once it's pulled free just have a helper run the jack down to floor level while you hold it steady on the jack. down and out it goes. Ready for cleanup.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 8th, 2013, 05:37 AM

The tranny was out of the way so I could reach in and grab the throwout bearing with my fingers.

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The clutch fingers(?), those three things behind the fork poking toward the center hole, had wear scuffs on them and they were shiny. I wonder if they're supposed to be that way or if that could be my noise?

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I spent the next several hours taking off the transmission hump cover and four bolts from the bellhousing, then the hydraulic clutch bits, then the bottom starter bolt but nothing would let the bellhousing come down. Frustrated, I just started spinning the flywheel and taking these bolts off on it.

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I had to stick a screwdriver in these little circular holes in the other side to hold it still while I turned it. You can see the screwdriver at the top of the picture.

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To my surprise the entire thing dropped out on my hand when I pulled out the last bolt. It hurt like HECK too! I guess it weighs 15-20 lbs. Good thing my hand was the only thing under there. It would have busted my phone wide open. Here's the empty socket it fell out of

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And the clutch disk

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Its thickness

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And the bottom thing's thickness

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And that was it today because i dont know what's next. Id like to figure out the bell housing issue but if not I can clean it up and paint it when I get a cherrypicker and pull the engine for painting later. Not the end of the world.

I also need to figure out if my clutch is worn enough to get redone and if the bearings are bad. The throwout bearing spins nicely but it might have other issues. I just dont know what Im looking for yet. :headscratch:

BarryGMC

September 8th, 2013, 05:20 PM

tommyduncan

September 8th, 2013, 06:40 PM

The thing is toast. Pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced. 2 options on the clutch. put in a 12 inch clutch out of a 1-1-2 ton truck with a v6. Thats what I do on both gmc and chevy. I will put some pics of these on later after I go to the shop. Second take your clutch to the napa store and have the counter help compare your clutch to a chevy, buick ,pontiac. 11 inch clutch. Tell the guy you want to see a clutch for a 76 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. He should have that. Compare the disks. they will interchange. There may be some visual differences depending on who made it, but that wont mater. Now the pressure plate is where you have to get creative. First the distance from the face of the flywheel on the gmc v6 to the mounting surface of the trans is aprox 5.75 inches. on a chevy with a truck flywheel it is aprox 4.75 inches. Now you see a range of measurements in the B,O,P. also, so there is a range of thicknesses of the whole pressure plate assembly, with gmc being the thickest. These differences are dealt with in a few ways. Ball stud height, and throwout bearing changes in conjunction with pressure plate thickness, and release finger design. The reality is you can see thicker pressure plates in the narrower dimension and thinner pressure plates in the wider dimension. Nothing has to be custom here. Especially the disk. Now finally in regard to the pressure plate. If the plate is not deeply scored you can resurface this also. However you need the services of a nice machinist. BarryNow that's the kind of info I like to see! Another V6 guy used a diaphragm set up for a Chevy and an old timer told me the same thing. Since I have never personally done this I wasn't going to chime in.
However... I am going to the parts store in a few and I was gonna drag the clutch from my parts motor with me to compare it to what's available. I am running a Hydramatic but I have been curious about this.
I guess the leg work has already been done!
I put the large clutch in my 61 Chevy wagon with a 3 on the tree. The older fellow behind the counter assured me it would work and it did.

Pep I have a bell housing sitting by itself. If some pics would help you to figure out if you missed a bolt lemme know. I also have two flywheels if yours is too far gone. These might be toast also, never really checked them out

I removed the clutch/flywheel the same way you did, with the bell housing still on. I had the engine still attached to the hoist but sitting on a tire on the ground. When I got all the bolts out of the flywheel I thought I had the full weight of it in my hand, but it was actually hung up on the tire. When I pulled it away from the engine it slipped off of the tire and pinned my hand against the ground. Blood spurted like a horror movie!:superhug:
My hands were black as night from all the grime(I'm not using these parts so no hurry to scrub them) and the blood was quite a contrast. It split the lowest section of my pinky wide open and left teeth marks across the callous part of the next two fingers.
I thought it was gonna be a trip to the ER but by the time I got it cleaned up it wasn't bleeding, just oozing clear fluid. I taped it real good and ignored it. Even a week later my coworker was telling me I should see a doctor but it is fine now.

jbgroby

September 9th, 2013, 02:26 AM

Fetch,

Here is something you don't see everyday. Don't worry about marking the flywheel position, AS GMC offset 2 of the holes, The flywheel can ONLY be put back in a correct position - Neat huh?

FetchMeAPepsi

September 9th, 2013, 11:42 PM

The thing is toast. Pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced. 2 options on the clutch. put in a 12 inch clutch out of a 1-1-2 ton truck with a v6. Thats what I do on both gmc and chevy. I will put some pics of these on later after I go to the shop. Second take your clutch to the napa store and have the counter help compare your clutch to a chevy, buick ,pontiac. 11 inch clutch. Tell the guy you want to see a clutch for a 76 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. He should have that. Compare the disks. they will interchange. There may be some visual differences depending on who made it, but that wont mater. Now the pressure plate is where you have to get creative. First the distance from the face of the flywheel on the gmc v6 to the mounting surface of the trans is aprox 5.75 inches. on a chevy with a truck flywheel it is aprox 4.75 inches.

This is brand spanking new info for me. I've read 1000 times that no one makes these clutches anymore. So much that I took it as gospel. That you found a compatible one thats still made is AMAZING! :superhappy:

I'll be ordering the New Generation 04-528 Premium Clutch Kit you recommended from Amazon this week. Man I was all ready to have to press in new bearings and have some place charge me an arm and leg to rebuild my clutch disk. You saved me about $100 bucks easy! Thank you!

Now you see a range of measurements in the B,O,P. also, so there is a range of thicknesses of the whole pressure plate assembly, with gmc being the thickest. These differences are dealt with in a few ways. Ball stud height, and throwout bearing changes in conjunction with pressure plate thickness, and release finger design. The reality is you can see thicker pressure plates in the narrower dimension and thinner pressure plates in the wider dimension. Nothing has to be custom here. Especially the disk. Now finally in regard to the pressure plate. If the plate is not deeply scored you can resurface this also. However you need the services of a nice machinist. Barry

Ok now i just feel stupid. I dont know what any of that means :headscratch:

Pep I have a bell housing sitting by itself. If some pics would help you to figure out if you missed a bolt lemme know. I also have two flywheels if yours is too far gone. These might be toast also, never really checked them out.

My flywheel looks pretty good. I think it'll be OK, but thanks! If it's not too much trouble I would like to see a few pics of the bellhousing though. I know it doesn't have to come out anymore but I'd like to clean it up and paint it since I already have six of the bolts out of it and the hydraulics and starter off. If it's too much trouble just let me know. No hard feelins! :)

I removed the clutch/flywheel the same way you did, with the bell housing still on. I had the engine still attached to the hoist but sitting on a tire on the ground. When I got all the bolts out of the flywheel I thought I had the full weight of it in my hand, but it was actually hung up on the tire. When I pulled it away from the engine it slipped off of the tire and pinned my hand against the ground. Blood spurted like a horror movie!:superhug:
My hands were black as night from all the grime(I'm not using these parts so no hurry to scrub them) and the blood was quite a contrast. It split the lowest section of my pinky wide open and left teeth marks across the callous part of the next two fingers.
I thought it was gonna be a trip to the ER but by the time I got it cleaned up it wasn't bleeding, just oozing clear fluid. I taped it real good and ignored it. Even a week later my coworker was telling me I should see a doctor but it is fine now.

:ahhhh:

Fetch,

Here is something you don't see everyday. Don't worry about marking the flywheel position, AS GMC offset 2 of the holes, The flywheel can ONLY be put back in a correct position - Neat huh?

GROBY! I haven't see you around in a while! I did mark the bottom bolt (see the tape in the pic!) but I'm glad they made it so even I cant mess it up. Every time I learn something new about this truck I love it that much more. :yeeuh::yeeuh: To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 

Thanks everyone for the help. You guys have your own things going on with your own lives and families and I really appreciate you taking the time to share a little knowledge with someone who easily gets in over his head. :yourock:

BarryGMC

September 10th, 2013, 01:39 AM

You need to pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced. No ifs and's or buts. Your napa store may even be able to do it. Guys I swap transmissions like most people swap in one wire gm alternators. Its my dislike for 3 speeds and crappy aluminum 5 speeds. The 2 most common setups in jeeps. 420's are my fav with nv4500 and t-19's next. I make most of my own adapters, drivelines, and shorten and respline input/ output shafts. If it is a 1-1/8 10 spline I will figure out a clutch. I have a great friend who is a parts guy. I grew up with his little bro. He lets me play with this that and the other when I need to sort stuff out. Finally My 90 year old granpa is a machinist. His dad was a machinist. And I can spend the day playing with 3 different lathes a couple of mills, a planer,2 crank grinders, head mill, valve grinders,boring bars etc,etc. I tell him he is like Noah he seems to have 2 of everything. He also has far more old rigs than I do. He taught me to be real crafty and frugal in my old ride hobby. He also made me learn the hard way. All of the work I did at his shop in my early years was done outside in the heat,rain,cold,snow. Because he said his shop was for men to work. I spent many days right outside his door with him and his friends watching and waiting for me to quit. So if there is anything I want people to learn its to be resourceful, and persistent. These are machines. They share a huge commonality with other machines. Keep this in mind and you will find this all really easy. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

September 10th, 2013, 06:53 PM

I can have the flywheel resurfaced. I'll take it off this weekend. The weather's supposed to be great so I'm hoping to get all the cleanup etc. stuff done then put it all back together next weekend (21st). That just leaves me the 28th to get the step put back on so I can take the required b'day pics with the lil' blonde. Ugh time is going by too fast! Winter will be here soon then everything comes to a halt while we shiver and freeze.

Yesterday while that same lil' blonde was down for her nap I sneaked out to the garage and needle-scaled (thanks Vernski! :lolflag:) the transmission down to a more respectable dust color.

I tried a putty knife on the stuff stuck to her but...well you can see.

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The bottom was real nasty. I put the plug back in (not in pic) to flip it over so dirt didnt get in there.

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I was left with this mess on my nice clean plyboards

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Then today I dunked her in a big tupperware bin that I call my parts washer. I poured my trusty gallon of carb cleaner all over her and me and some paper towels went to scrubbin. I was going to jump in the shower before I did this but changed my mind (I can't stop thinkin about my truck lately. Obsessive much?!) and ran outside to do this one thing real quick. I don't have pics because...um...I was afraid of reflective surfaces and you guys probably just ate.

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Afterward I finished my shower, put on gloves and rinsed the tranny off with the hose. I dried it with paper towels and sat it in the sun. It'll still need wire-wheeling but overall it's much better looking. I'm gonna paint it too :wub2: but I need to find some of that orangey paint. I thought the transmissions were black but it still has some orange on it from the factory. I order Duplicolor 1605 Ford Red engine enamel which supposedly most closely matches the color.

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For giggles I checked the seal prices on Muncie 318s and on Ebay they run about $100 for all the seals and bearings. That's probably in my future eventually, but not today!

If you're keeping track, to date I've spent about $1548.08 on Cecilia including purchase price and parts. I don't include tools because I'll use them forever, but several of them were freebies from garage sale leftovers, friends, relatives, and Freecycle. (Man I love Freecycle!)
My total budget is $4800. When I reach that mark if she'd not done enough I'll have to start selling spare bits to close the gap. If things get too tight I might have to paint her with crayons :lolsmack:

:boggled::boggled: Train of Thought Alert!! My $4800 number came from being close to what I could resell her for if times got real hard and I had already sold most of my limbs and kidneys. It's 10% of the national average income plus $500 for shipping. Makes sense, right? :boggled::boggled:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 14th, 2013, 12:05 AM

I spent the last couple of days wire wheeling the transmission down except for a small portion that still has original paint on it. I'm going to compare it to the new stuff to see how close I got. The tail leaks though and I'm not sure if that's normal. If not I might need to get seals anyway.

After the wheeling I coated it in Ospho to stop/prevent rust. Now it's a very cool black. :egyptian:

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Tomorrow I'll pull the flywheel if I can figure out how and replace all those bolts in the bellhousing/starter/hydraulic clutch bits, hopefully get the transmission painted and refilled with fluid, and get the hump cover that I took off for easier access cleaned up and the bottom painted with Herculiner. It's both thicker and tougher than the spray on Rustoleum bedliner that I've been using for smaller parts and should be perfect for undercarriage protection. That's the plan anyway.

Then it's BBQ time again. It's supposed to be a fantastic day tomorrow. Not too hot, not too chilly, no rain but several clouds. :egyptian:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 14th, 2013, 10:26 PM

The parts fairy came by and dropped this off today. Hard to find part for a '62.

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I put it away because I'll need it later but today was Pilot Bearing Day in Pepsi-land. I found out there's a right way and a wrong way to remove a pilot bearing.

First, the wrong way.

Go down to Lowes and buy a 1 1/8 inch dowel. Bring it home, realize the pilot bearing doesn't slide all the way up the shaft and return it to Lowes. Now buy a 5/8 inch dowel rod. See Oak rods. See Poplar rods. Look slyly at the one that is 1/5th the price made from Poplar. Use the internet to find out that you'll probably drive it through your hand when it splinters all over you. Choose the oak. Fun fact: Poplar has a hardness of 300. Oak is over 1500!

Now take that rod home and get under your truck. Pack bearing grease into the pilot bearing hole. Pack it in there good. It's goopy so be sure to smear it all over you. Later you'll wonder how some got in your left ear.

Put your 5/8 dowel in the hole...It wont fit. Sand the tip down so it's beveled. Poke the bevel in the hole and whack it with a hammer. Curse whomever created the grease that now coats everything you're wearing. Spend the next 30 mins cleaning up. Total time: 2 hours. :lolsmack:

The right way:
Go down to Autozone. Tell the man you want a slide hammer and a pilot bearing puller to borrow. He'll charge you $49.00 out the door, which you get back when you return it. Take it home. Poke one of the pilot bearing feet in the bearing because both feet won't fit. Make sure it's staying in there by tilting it so that the foot is facing down (gravity holds it in the hole now). Slide the hammer 3 times. Go have a sandwich and return your hammer.
Total time: 15 minutes. Total working time: 30 seconds.

So this little booger popped right out in my hand.

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I cleaned it up and look at the sides. It has a lot of heat discoloration. Maybe it's the problem?

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That finally finished, I turned to my transmission. I opened the four bolts on the side and looked inside. Nothing obvious was wrong.

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Then I took the four off the front. A small amount of rust showed on the collar, but nothing serious.

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I put them both back on, making sure to line the ridge on the inside gear up with the first shifter fork thingy, and the second lined up with the floating gear inside that is about 1 inch long. Like a glove.

BarryGMC

September 15th, 2013, 05:15 AM

Weird. I posted a response and nothing . I have not been able to get to the site. Well I am glad it's back up for me and a few others. Barry

BarryGMC

September 15th, 2013, 05:17 AM

That front bearing does not look right.

Vernski

September 15th, 2013, 07:15 AM

X2 I agree with Barry that front bering just don't look right looks like some of the marbles are missing and the race is gouged..Vernski:goodluck:

tommyduncan

September 15th, 2013, 02:10 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 15th, 2013, 02:53 PM

X2 I agree with Barry that front bering just don't look right looks like some of the marbles are missing and the race is gouged..Vernski:goodluck:

At this point my wife thinks my marbles are all missing :lolflag: I think the picture is wonky so I'll post better pics today. The marbles go all around the input shaft. What is the race?

Pepsi I know you have some youngins' and although they seem like real good kids I think you should send this to me for safe keeping.

HEY! ...I just thought of something! The aftermarket turn signal setup in my truck plays "Love Me Tender" whenever the turn signal is on(no really, it really does:noway:).
I bet your kids would LOVE it!!! It kinda sounds like an ice cream truck!

There is nothing I like better than pleasing kids, so I am willing to trade you straight across for your boring old OEM unit in that beat up, stinky old box for my really cool, Elvis approved aftermarket unit...

Nice find!

:lolsmack::lolsmack::lolsmack:

Thanks for the grin Tommy. It's been a frustrating weekend. I've got a plan for the switch though. Are yours' ears broken like 99% of the others out there? If so i might have a surprise for you in a few months.

tommyduncan

September 15th, 2013, 03:15 PM

At this point my wife thinks my marbles are all missing :lolflag: I think the picture is wonky so I'll post better pics today. The marbles go all around the input shaft. What is the race? It's a race to lose all our marbles!

:lolsmack::lolsmack::lolsmack:

Thanks for the grin Tommy. It's been a frustrating weekend. I've got a plan for the switch though. Are yours' ears broken like 99% of the others out there? If so i might have a surprise for you in a few months.
I haven't looked inside the column yet but I suspect that is what happened. I need to find the wire that goes to "Love me tender" because I'm about to tenderize the turn signal switch with a large hammer! :lolsmack::pullinghairout:

Vernski

September 15th, 2013, 06:26 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 20th, 2013, 07:57 PM

I maybe seeing things that may not be there [macular degeneration] I guess it's just the way the photo turned out. If all the marbles are there it maybe fine and I have CSS. The race is what hold's the marbles in by the way, the photo was just a little scary :ahhhh:Vernski

That's OK Vernski. I just realized last week that I couldn't read the directions on a bottle of baby orajel anymore. What the heck? I'm not even 40 yet...

I'll be rebuilding the transmission anyway since I needed a rear seal so here's to learning new things! :beer:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 20th, 2013, 08:14 PM

Guess what? I got those stupid flywheel bolts out!

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Oh yeah!!!:egyptian::egyptian::egyptian:

With help from the club I figured out that A. They are bolts and not welded nuts. and B. They're hard as heck to get out, but they're not reverse threaded or anything stupid. Just glom on and get ta twistin! I twisted with an electric impact. I twisted with an air impact. I twisted my finger.

:headscratch:

Nothing worked.

So I sprayed them with PB blaster yesterday then hit them with this concoction (through the transmission hump in the center of the cab) :

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First I put a jack under the driver's side of the flywheel to keep it from spinning. I put 2 pumps on it after they met.

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Looking through the tranny hump inside you can see where it meets up, kinda.

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Then I broke loose all my bolts, but left them in. They were only finger loose so I could take them out by hand. I'm wearing gloves because I didn't have much time (1 1/2 hours) so I didn't want to get too filthy.

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Then lower the jack. SqueeeeeeeechhhH!!!!

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Then take the bolts out by hand, starting with the lowest bolt first so the top one holds the 900 lb flywheel in. Seriously this thing is heavy and has teeth! Don't drop it on you.

When I took out the last bolt I wiggled it a bit and it fell. I stupidly thought I could catch it with one hand. Instead it hit a 4x4 I had lying under the truck in case it fell to protect the teeth. Look at that gouge!

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After that I stuck it in 5 wal-mart sacks to keep my other vehicle clean. It's so heavy I might put a few more bags on it to be safe.

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Now it's off to the machine shop! $50.00 is what they want to resurface it and it'll be done in 2 hours.

tommyduncan

September 20th, 2013, 11:26 PM

YES!:yeeuh:

I knew you would get it:yourock:

Hopefully you will get it back when your other parts arrive and it's on!:champagne:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 21st, 2013, 01:09 AM

Thanks for the tips Tommy. I still think those bolts look like someone just welded a nut on the threads and said, "Well, good 'nuff!" LOL!

the flywheel was done within an hour. BOOM! They even put it in a nice drycleaning style heavy duty plastic bag. And cleaned it. Bonus points!

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Tomorrow it'll go back in after a fishing trip with the babies. With luck the rebuild kit will be here tomorrow too.

tommyduncan

September 21st, 2013, 01:20 AM

Flywheels are the only place I recall ever seeing that type of bolt. You've got me wondering... why?:headscratch:

I'm sure someone on here knows!

Foley

September 21st, 2013, 04:29 AM

And....it might have been mentioned earlier in the thread, but can that flywheel go back on any which way or is the bolt pattern offset or notched or something so it goes back on the way it came off for the correct weight balance of the lower end?

Cayoterun

September 21st, 2013, 04:34 AM

bozzhogg

September 21st, 2013, 06:17 PM

I know this is unrelated but does anybody know if the timing chain for the 305E V6 will fit the 305D GMC V6????

tommyduncan

September 21st, 2013, 09:43 PM

I know this is unrelated but does anybody know if the timing chain for the 305E V6 will fit the 305D GMC V6????

Kinda the wrong place for this but Pepsi's a nice guy. I doubt he'll mind...

In would look up the part# and pic for each model somewhere like rock auto and see if they share the same part#.

FetchMeAPepsi

September 22nd, 2013, 04:03 AM

Flywheels are the only place I recall ever seeing that type of bolt. You've got me wondering... why?:headscratch:

I'm sure someone on here knows!

It's Voodoo! I'm sure of it. hexed bolts! :ahhhh:

And....it might have been mentioned earlier in the thread, but can that flywheel go back on any which way or is the bolt pattern offset or notched or something so it goes back on the way it came off for the correct weight balance of the lower end?

I don't remember who, but someone mentioned that they're offset. Way over engineered engine, right? I love that V6.

Bolts are off-set, Pepsi.

Thanks Coyote! Hope you and the family are doing well. The rain is great, ain't it?:champagne:

I know this is unrelated but does anybody know if the timing chain for the 305E V6 will fit the 305D GMC V6????

Hi Bozz! Thanks for reading my mess here. I grew up watching Dukes of Hazzard reruns so your screen name always makes me think "Ahhh, Jefferson DAVIS Hawg, at your service!"
Good memories :) Fun fact: He was actually really skinny. They used pillows to puff him up!

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You might get a better response on your question in the Motors section if no one here knows (I don't for sure). Some guys dont read the build threads so they wont see this one. As the thread-resident monkey with a wrench though I dont think theyre interchangable. Other things are though. The innards changed a little between D and E models. Jolly can prolly tell you more about the changes.

Kinda the wrong place for this but Pepsi's a nice guy. I doubt he'll mind...

In would look up the part# and pic for each model somewhere like rock auto and see if they share the same part#.

Great idea! Tommy :thumbsup:

Bozz, I just checked Rockauto and they're different numbers. I'd still ask in the engines forum to be sure though. Good luck!

:goodluck:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 22nd, 2013, 04:48 AM

I had big plans for today but they got sidetracked by household upkeep and winterization. Bleh.

When the dust settled I was putting shovels and drills away when I glanced sideways. There sat my 4wd shifter and the middle hump on the rear of Cecilia's frame. It called to me softly. "Pepsi........."

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"Pepsiiiiiiii...... Come work on me. Just for a minute. It won't be too hard this time, I promise..."

I grinned a dopey grin and ambled over to the hump. The shifter boot is awful looking. It's a square boot that the PO (Previous Owner) screwed down in the circular hole. It's like gravy covered ice cream. not pretty.

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The handle is worn smooth from many years of shifting. I couldn't get it to twist off so I grabbed a pipe turner thingy, one of those with a rubber grip that runs through a handle, and gave it a twist to break it loose. Then my little helper got to spinning.

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Remember I didn't have any time? So I left the grip with the boy. He called it a giant mushroom and spent the next 10 minutes shoving plastic fishing worms in the mounting hole. (How does he think of this stuff?) I removed the ring holding the boot on. Since it was all bent and banged up I laid it on a flat part on the frame and whacked on it with a rubber hammer until it was straight again.

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Then I put it in a vice and wire wheeled it until it was all shiny and new looking. After that it got a blast of ospho. Tomorrow or Monday I'll blast it with bedliner material and it'll be ready for re-installation. I need to find a new 6" circular boot for it though. The square one is going in the trash. That's all the time I had. I felt better after getting to fiddle with her a little.

OH! And speaking of parts, the parts fairy came again and brought my rear end pinion seal (Rock auto), my transmission rebuild kit (Ebay :yeeuh:), my oil pan gasket (Rock Auto), and a quart jar of Herculiner (Amazon) for the bottom of the transmission hump. Woot!

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Guess who's learning how to rebuild a tranny this week? :superhappy:

Cayoterun

September 23rd, 2013, 01:39 AM

It's Voodoo! I'm sure of it. hexed bolts! :ahhhh:

I don't remember who, but someone mentioned that they're offset. Way over engineered engine, right? I love that V6.

Thanks Coyote! Hope you and the family are doing well. The rain is great, ain't it?:champagne:

Hi Bozz! Thanks for reading my mess here. I grew up watching Dukes of Hazzard reruns so your screen name always makes me think "Ahhh, Jefferson DAVIS Hawg, at your service!"
Good memories :) Fun fact: He was actually really skinny. They used pillows to puff him up!

 To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 

You might get a better response on your question in the Motors section if no one here knows (I don't for sure). Some guys dont read the build threads so they wont see this one. As the thread-resident monkey with a wrench though I dont think theyre interchangable. Other things are though. The innards changed a little between D and E models. Jolly can prolly tell you more about the changes.

Great idea! Tommy :thumbsup:

Bozz, I just checked Rockauto and they're different numbers. I'd still ask in the engines forum to be sure though. Good luck!

:goodluck:

Pepsi: If you haven't already figured it out, after you get the flywheel muscled up in the hole, you can slip it on the crankshaft flange and turn it until the holes all line up. Do you need to be warned? That dude is heavy, so don't let it slip off the flange until you get a bolt started!!

Yes, Sir!!! The rain we have received is much appreciated, so with no cattle, we're letting the weeds grow, hoping to catch snow if we get any this winter.
We're all well up here. We'll be out at Black Mesa helping the Cimarron Heritage Center volunteers stuff grub in all those wild OKC Star-Gazers that stay up all night staring at the sky next week. Lot's of fun.-----and work.

FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 02:55 AM

Pepsi: If you haven't already figured it out, after you get the flywheel muscled up in the hole, you can slip it on the crankshaft flange and turn it until the holes all line up. Do you need to be warned? That dude is heavy, so don't let it slip off the flange until you get a bolt started!!

I know, I think they should have made it with it's own little elevator :lolflag:

I got it mashed up there, slipped on the flange, and started spinning. Then the dang thing fell off and I *thought* broke my ring finger. It's just sprained though thank goodness. It's sore as heck but it'll heal. One things for sure you gotta pay attention with this puppy!

Yes, Sir!!! The rain we have received is much appreciated, so with no cattle, we're letting the weeds grow, hoping to catch snow if we get any this winter.
We're all well up here. We'll be out at Black Mesa helping the Cimarron Heritage Center volunteers stuff grub in all those wild OKC Star-Gazers that stay up all night staring at the sky next week. Lot's of fun.-----and work.

Haha that sounds like a great time. You guys are good hearted people! Tell the wife I said "Hi"!

I got out there today and got dirty. I always start with piddly stuff. I painted my shift boot ring with bedliner, which I want to put all over the floorboards of my truck where the rubber mat used to be. I think I'll follow it with sound deadener and then some carpet or another mat. I haven't decided. I'm not really fond of carpet in these old trucks though, so probably a mat again.

Anyway...Back on topic...Shift boot ring:

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I got the shifter out and pulled out the cotter pin holding it together. The pin broke, so it'll get replaced. (Autozone, $6.99 for a set)

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After pulling the pin out the shifter just falls apart pretty easily. This is a good job for your little helpers.

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Exploded view :D

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BarryGMC

September 29th, 2013, 04:31 AM

Keep it up Pepsi. I love your enthusiasm. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 04:38 AM

All the smaller bits, washers, etc. and bracket takes a long bath in the carb cleaner bucket.

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Then it was on to the hump. I pulled out the rubber liner out of it's track. It was nasty. I'll need some new rubber. Then I hit it with a 60 grit mini flap disk (1 inch). It took about two hours to get it down to bare metal.

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When I got to the driver's side corner I discovered some pitting. Cecilia started scratching her head - it could mean dandruff! It didn't go too deep though so I sanded it down smooth. Then I sprayed the whole thing with Ospho and let it sit.

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While it dried and converted any microscopic rust I sprayed down the handle. it's all shiny and awesome now.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 04:49 AM

I got tied to the wire wheel for a while...

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(If you read this earlier, I'm sorry. I got ahead of myself. This is teardown, not rebuild! :lolflag:)

So obviously I took off the front cover and wire wheeled it above. Here's it coming off, along with the gasket. The gasket is probably very thin and paperlike if it's been on a while. You might have to dig it off with a razor or screwdriver.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 05:04 AM

I turned the transmission over and pulled off the side cover. It takes four bolts, each 1/2 inch. When they're out it just lifts away. The second pic shows me that I put the forks in wrong when I rebuilt it. Oops. Gotta change it tomorrow.:poke:

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I put the bolts back in the cover after I set it aside so I didn't lose them or try to put them in some other spot.

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Now I moved to the nut on the front. I had a VERY tough time with this. Then I discovered it is LEFT threaded. Yep. Righty-tighty lefty-loosey doesn't apply to this little backward fella.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 05:35 AM

I moved to the tail section then, pulling out all five bolts. They're 9/16 inch.

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For the next part make sure you're over a stable surface like a table. Crap will go everywhere!

Pull the case apart. most people never do this because its hard to get back together. But to rebuild your muncie sm 318 you need to do this to get to the rear bearings. and the needlebearings, which you're about to meet.

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Keep pulling....And Tada! Needle bearings all over the shaft!

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Some also get scattered around inside. Stick a pencil magnet or your finger in there to get them out. Set the tail section aside for now.

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Then slide the outer ring off of what's left inside the transmission. This is your 1st and reverse gear. Notice how tiny the gear teeth are? After this I really don't think I'll ever do a burnout from a red light ever again. These things are tiny!

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Finally slide the big pepsi-can looking thing out the back. This is second and third gear.

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Put them back together and set them somewhere safe.

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Now run a magnet (the silver triangle looking thing here) around inside again. I found more needle bearings!

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Time to pound on something again. ARR ARR ARR!

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Grab a socket, this one is 9/16 if I remember right. Add some extensions.

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Poke it through the back where the tailshaft used to be. Poke it into the spot where the needlebearings were.

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Now ring it with a hammer. Just the weight of the hammer, don't knock it into next week.

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The front shaft (input shaft) will pop right out in your hand.

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That's it for the case here. Set it aside somewhere.

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Needle bearing collection. I found one more fat one (fat ones go on the front) stuck to the shaft.

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Um...If you didn't already, take the washers off the TAIL shaft now. We set it aside already, remember? :poke:

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 05:39 AM

Keep it up Pepsi. I love your enthusiasm. Barry

Without your help I would never have got this far. Thanks Barry!:notworthymulti:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 05:55 AM

While we have the tailshaft on the bench grab two screwdrivers and push apart the big ring by the base of the shaft. You can hold one side still with one flathead screwdriver, then push the other side away and forward on the shaft.

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Once it's hooked out of the little groove it's in you can pry the shaft out.

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This is a crazy long shaft.

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For the next part I put it in a vise. The part that comes off next is just held on with friction. Bang it gently with a hammer going around and around the shaft to get it loose.

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This part here is TOUGH :noway::noway::noway:
If you have a spring tool use it here and save yourself some stress. It took me forever to wedge two screwdrivers, one sideways and one up and down, against this clamp.

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Then I worked it up enough on one side that I could slip a third screwdriver under it.

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If you ever get it out of the groove you can bang it gently with a hammer to get it up the shaft. But...

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Put your hand over it when you get to the end or it'll PING! off into the sunset.

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Now bang the bearing with a hammer. Go side to side or it'll get stuck.

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Old and new.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 06:29 AM

That bearing is called a "race". (thanks Raycow for the terminology) Pound it down onto the shaft now.

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Then pound on the evil snap ring.

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Finally pound on this spinny thing.

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It needs to float 1" above the race.

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Thats it for the tail shaft. Now grab the tail case. Im sure theres a better way to do this, but I just stuck a crowbar in the end of it and pried on the seal back there. it popped right out.

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Old and new

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Clean out the hole a bit

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This part here is red RTV silicone. You should use GREY silicone instead, but I dont have any so this is what she got. Red is for high temp areas. Grey is for high torque areas.

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Set the new gasket in it's new home then put the old gasket on top of it.

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This protects the new gasket while you pound it with a hammer to drive it home.

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Clean up the extra silicone.

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Flip the case over and scratch or scrape off the gasket. I had to scrape mine off. If I didnt know it was there I wouldnt have thought to look. it was very thin and worn down.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 06:39 AM

Slide your tail shaft into the case again, but not all the way.

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Take a finger full of bearing grease and rub it around the inside of the seal we just put in to make sure the tailshaft doesn't tear it up or cause any problems.

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Pry the little clip open again...

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When it's open you can bang it with a hammer, just a small tap, and it'll slide home.

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The tail portion is done! :egyptian:

Grab the input shaft now and put it in a vise.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 06:45 AM

Take a punch or a piece of pencil like metal and pound it gently with a hammer.

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The race will fall off.

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Old and new

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Just pound on the new one like you did the other. Remember to put the little groove facing up toward the front of the shaft so you can get the little keeper ring back on later!

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It needs to stop just a hair's breadth from the gear under it.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 03:13 PM

Run around and hunt for your new snap ring.

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Snap it on the race (that's the bearing, remember?)

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Pound the input shaft in with a hammer

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stop when the snap ring gets to just above the case

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raycow

September 29th, 2013, 06:10 PM

That bearing is called a "race". (thanks Raycow for the terminology) Pound it down onto the shaft now.

Actually it isn't. The "race" is just the inner or outer ring that the spherical rolling elements run against (I had to say it that way because the censorship software won't let me say *****). The complete bearing is called....uhh....well.....a bearing.

Ray

FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 06:35 PM

Now put your gears back in. They take some wiggling to get in the right spot and up on the shaft.

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Find your tail gasket and RTV it

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Stick it to the back of the case

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Get the tail portion ready for entry. :ahhhh:

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Slide your two rings back on, this is the back ring.

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Get a fingerfull of grease and smear it on the two spots that bearings need to stick. Dont mind my nasty fingers. Eww. I smell like transmission fluid every day now.

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Start loading your new bearings on. Big ones on the tip, skinny long ones in the back.

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Done! now if you're really good you can slip it in like this and all of your bearings will stay put. If you're not (And I tried for six hours) put a little tiny rubber band around the tip bearings to hold them in place. The rubber band will dissolve in the trans oil after a few feet of movement.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 29th, 2013, 06:36 PM

Actually it isn't. The "race" is just the inner or outer ring that the spherical rolling elements run against (I had to say it that way because the censorship software won't let me say *****). The complete bearing is called....uhh....well.....a bearing.

Ray

Well shucks! Ok, I'll use Bearing from here out :)

The struck out word (Jeannie if this isn't allowed just delete this line) is the plural of ball for those that didnt see the other thread.

Thanks again!:yourock:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 02:58 AM

Back at the front, put the stupid backwards threaded nut back on

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Goop up the gasket and put it on, making sure to put the hole lined up with the hole at the bottom of the bearing you installed. Then goop up the outside.

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Put the cover back on, lining up the hole again. It looks to me like a weep hole for moisture or something. Torque it down good.

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Now back to the tail section. If you haven't yet, put red RTV silicone around the outside of the gasket you just stuck to the back. Then slide the tail portion in slowly. Grit your teeth and say a prayer too. This really took me forever to get right. the needle bearings kept falling off until I used a rubber band on the tip bearings.

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Here's a pic of the rubber banded bearings. I ended up only binding the front ones.

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if you're lucky and it slides in all the way start bolting it down. If you have a 4x4 the long bolts go in the side with the shift stalks.

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Torque them down enough that you see RTV silicone squirting out the case crack

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Put RTV on the port gasket, both sides.

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Get ready to put the cover back on. you need to line up the 1st and reverse gear (small sliding ring) with the fat forks on the cover. And line up the 2/3 gears (long fat pepsi can lookin bit) witht he small fork. Just the lip on the end of the can is all that you need to worry about.

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Here's a shot of the gears lined up with the forks. I hope you can make it out OK.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 03:10 AM

Torque it down too until you see silicone coming out.

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Now grab your new clutch and pressure plate. Mine looked like it had been on the shelf a while. it didn't include that bar thing that lines up the clutch plate.

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And the throwout bearing is quite a bit larger. Here's old and new. The new one has a zerk fitting on it. I bought a $30.00 grease gun just for this. I needed one anyway.

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let's see how it fits. :)

Grab your new pilot bearing, that's the small one. Get some bearing grease and grease it up really good. Mash grease in the part of the bearing with the ball bearings too. Place it on your newly refinished flywheel.

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Gently smack it with a hammer. It'll go right in. (side note, I forgot that it went in the flywheel and spent two and a half hours trying to bang it into the crank shaft. :ahhhh:)

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It should end up flat in there.

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FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 03:27 AM

I laid my flywheel on my fat belly after lying on my crawler. This made moving it under Cecilia much easier. Once under there I rolled it off slowly and into it's spot.

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You'll have to get under it and muscle it up onto the crankshaft lip. Once there it'll jump right off if you look at it crosseyed. Shortly after this picture it jumped off on me and hit my ring finger hard enough that I thought it was broken. Now I'm pretty sure it's just sprained. It's swollen up to twice normal size and it doesn't like to move, but I can bend it ok. Straightening is a problem. :ohmygosh:

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You can see from the rust patterns which set of bolts goes where on the flywheel. One set of bolts has a hole in the middle of the metal thing that holds two of them together. Keep an eye on that one and slowly turn it around (Remember this is where I got hurt. Be CAREFUL!!!!!) until the holes line up. start putting bolts in. If they all don't go in easy, it's not the right holes. Take them out and turn it more then try again.

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Once in place and easily screwed in hand tight, torque them down. Mine were super-torqued, remember? This time they're only electric-impact-wrench tight. (300 ft-lbs)

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Here you should go take a break. You've earned it. Plus you have a 900 lb pressure plate and clutch to muscle up next. You'll need to be fresh if you're a weenie-armed guy like me.

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I was bone tired at this point so I guess I forgot to snap more pics, but you just keep the clutch and pressure plate together like above, and shove the whole shebang up in behind the flywheel. Have a bolt ready to screw in, you'll need (and want) to get it in the first hole that lines up. These holes aren't offset so any hole goes with any bolt.

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I torqued them down with the impact again then I used a 9/16" wrench to move the bolt clockwise, turning the whole crank to the next hole. Just like when I took them out.

FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 04:09 AM

The next day I was so sore I could barely move. So I ate some pills and did piddly work, painting stuff. I had a little bit of original paint on the transmission so I tried all of the orangy colored paints at my local autoparts store. I couldn't find one that matched exactly, but VHT brand Chevy Orange was pretty close. It lacks some rusty-red coloring but it dried decently close. Enough for this poor boy.

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So i painted half of it. When it dried 5 coats thick it was way oranger than the original paint. I should have gone with the chrysler red stuff. :(

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While it dried I put more bedliner stuff on these bits. I thought about doing the fat pin that goes in the shifter but decided it would make it too thick to get back together. It's a tight fit and it'll be covered in grease already.

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As I painted it I thought I should test that little zerk fitting. it was clogged up so I took it off. It just unscrews.

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I rooted out the hole with a coathanger. You'll know you're done when you can poke the coathanger all the way through and no more dirt falls out.

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Then put the zerk fitting back on and try pumping grease into it. If it works, you'll see grease start to fill up the hole. you can barely see some grease in this pic. If it doesn't work your zerk fitting might be clogged or bad. Get a new one at the auto parts store for $2.99 or a complete set of them for $14.00.

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I had a spot on the transmission hump where the shifter goes through that was bent so I banged it out to where I thought it looked factory shaped. It's a wavey bit of metal so I did it straight along the wave.

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Then I wire wheeled it and opened a can of this stuff. it's supposed to be thicker and much tougher than the spray on stuff I've been using.

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They aren't kidding. It's way more textured than the spray on stuff. Thicker too with little rubber bits through it. I'm not sure I like the look, but if it protects better it's what I want. it'll go on everything underneath and my floorboards under the sound deadener.

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I also put it on these circled parts because they live under the truck too and will get splashed with all kinds of stuff. I put two coats on everything. The shifter only got herculiner on the bottom portion that sits below the shift boot.

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Foley

September 30th, 2013, 05:00 AM

BarryGMC

September 30th, 2013, 05:07 AM

OK Pepsi I am going to give you a bad time. You have not really had it bad until you have put a sm465 np205 set up in with no jack. 200 lbs of Michigan cast iron on your chest. Try this on the cold. About 15 degrees. Keep it up its good to see you learn. Best wishes. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 02:06 PM

Regarding the engine paint there Fetch, some of the folks here on the forum have advised me to go for the VHT or Dulicolor (same company now) #1605, Ford engine Red in order to get the best possible color match. I found a spray can at an old, old NAPA store $4.99 with 1/2 inch of dust on the lid. I had to shake it up for 3 days it'd been sitting so long, then squirted the oil pan, and find it has more reddish and less orangish. Looks very good I think. Pix to follow some day when I do one of them build journals.

I ordered six cans of Ford Red for the engine but the transmission and transfer case was a more rusty color than the motor (maybe just in the 4x4?). I couldn't find any "look alike" colors listed in the archives so I just ran my own testing facility :lolflag:
I failed, but it's the closest I could find. You're right though. I probably should have just used the Ford Red.

OK Pepsi I am going to give you a bad time. You have not really had it bad until you have put a sm465 np205 set up in with no jack. 200 lbs of Michigan cast iron on your chest. Try this on the cold. About 15 degrees. Keep it up its good to see you learn. Best wishes. Barry

I can't even imagine :D I would be one of those guys you see on the news "Weenie-armed idiot crushed to death under vehicle while working on it. Pictures at 10!" :lolsmack: I'm thankful that this one isn't too crazy heavy and even more, I rebuilt it with my own two hands (and a lot of help from this club). It sure feels different when you've put it together yourself, doesn't it? :yeeuh::yeeuh::yeeuh:

Thanks for reading my train wreck guys. And all you lurkers too :beer:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 30th, 2013, 08:43 PM

My littlest blonde has a birthday coming up in two days so I'm trying to get Cecilia out of the garage in time to take her birthday pics. And for winter too. I don't move much when it gets cold.

This afternoon I did a couple of piddly things. I wire wheeled and ospho'd the drive shaft that I had forgotten about.

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It'll get a coat of herculiner on the shaft. I dont know about the pins etc. Im kinda afraid that would mess them up so I'll probably leave them as they are.

I threw away the old pins for the shifter and set aside my new pins.

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I discovered that I had herculiner'ed my shifter bracket here to a piece of cardboard so I got a razorblade and cut it off. That was fun. Then I had to re-herculine the balder spots.

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I did some touchup and wiped up the excess on the hump. I still need to get a new rubber liner.

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then I sprayed another coat of rustoleum bedliner on the shaft. The rustoleum liner is thin and smooth, better for interior places you'll be touching. The herculiner is like those playgrounds that have chopped up rubber underfoot. Thick and grabby. Not what I want on the shaft of the 4x4 shifter. I stuck it in a hole in the frame to dry :lolflag:

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Then I squirted some grease in my new throwout bearing.

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And finally I put another coat of blind-your-face orange on the transmission and recoated these two stepside braces. They had spray-on stuff on them first but this stuff is much tougher and they live under the truck so they get coated.

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That was it today. Tonight or tomorrow I'll try to mount the tranny and get her moving again :thumbsup:

Andice

October 1st, 2013, 01:39 PM

Excellent work, Fetch. Great detail and all done with a limited number of tools. Good for you!

FetchMeAPepsi

October 2nd, 2013, 01:18 AM

Excellent work, Fetch. Great detail and all done with a limited number of tools. Good for you!

Thanks Andice! Your new avatar is cool!

1960's technology really makes these trucks easy for the newbie to work on with common household stuff. You could almost just buy one of those house-toolkit/toolboxes that come preloaded and do alot of the stuff you have to do to keep them going. It's great :thumbsup:

I am having trouble with the transmission insertion though. I can't seem to get it to go in the last inch to inch and a half. I'm thinking it's an alignment thing. I'll be working on it tomorrow but if I can't get it then I'll have to wait till Saturday. :morecoffee:

BarryGMC

October 2nd, 2013, 02:18 AM

Andice

October 2nd, 2013, 02:51 AM

Thanks Fetch. It took four years to get that avatar. Could your new throwout bearing be the culprit? It looked a little longe than the original.

FetchMeAPepsi

October 2nd, 2013, 07:35 PM

Did that kit have an alignment tool? If it did not loosen up the pressure plate until the disk is just snug in there. You need to be able to move the disk when you put the trans in. Then you should be able to get the shaft into the bearing.

It was supposed to include one, but it didn't. I think I've found the problem though....

Thanks Fetch. It took four years to get that avatar. Could your new throwout bearing be the culprit? It looked a little longe than the original.

It's longer than the original but it does seem to fit in the fork. I had to pry the fork back to get it in but once in there it seems to slide around OK. I'm not sure exactly how it should be.

Well guys, my insertion problem looks to be the loose nut behind the hammer (thats me :poke:). When I tried to get the transmission apart and back together I banged on the input shaft to get things moving in one way or another. It didnt seem to do anything to it so I thought it was just tough steel.

It isnt as tough as a hammer though. I guess i swelled it up on the end and the pilot bearing doesn't fit on it anymore. I'm not sure what to do now. I think I'll try the guy that resurfaced my flywheel and see if he can scour the tip back down to pilot bearing size. Its that or find a donor transmission I think.

BarryGMC

October 3rd, 2013, 01:23 AM

I am sure some one will howl about this advice. Take a flat file and remove the high spots on the end until it fits. Dead blow hammers and brass bars are your friend. Remember that. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2013, 01:33 AM

I am sure some one will howl about this advice. Take a flat file and remove the high spots on the end until it fits. Dead blow hammers and brass bars are your friend. Remember that. Barry

That's more in my price range. I won't mess up the weight and make it wobble at high speeds? (highest she'll ever see is 55)

What's a brass bar for? I'm ordering a 3lb dead blow today :)

BarryGMC

October 3rd, 2013, 01:42 AM

You won't notice a thing. The brass goes between the hammer and what ever you are beating on. I have brass rods and bars for various tasks. Very handy.

FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2013, 10:22 PM

Just a quick update. It's mounted! I just need to fill it with fluid, hook up the 4wd shifter, replace the hump and DRIVE baby!

:champagne::champagne::champagne:

Pics coming tonight. The kiddos have dr visits today (shots booo!) so it'll be late.

FetchMeAPepsi

October 4th, 2013, 04:06 AM

Like I always do I started with the piddly stuff to get my feet wet. I got my 4x4 shift bracket and my stick shift ready for mashing together. The only problem was my herculiner that I put on everything. It made the fit too tight!

So I grabbed Mr. Hammer and he negotiated the two into a deal. Then I touched up the bald spots with more herculiner.

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Then I drove the pin in, same problem.

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Next came the washer (both sides) and cotter pins (also both sides!)

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Finally I got to use my brand new grease gun. Greased it up good till it spun around very freely.

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Then I crawled under the truck again to install the throwout bearing. The new bearing is larger than the old one so I put a crowbar on the fork and pried it away just a little.

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This let me slide the bearing in easily. The big part goes toward the engine. Remember that we greased it up earlier.

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After I got it in I saw it wasnt lined up.

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So I poked my crowbar in it and wiggled it around till it did. Notice that bling-bling on my crowbar? Kinda matches the transmission, don't it? Overspray is a hateful booger.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 4th, 2013, 04:53 AM

If you remember I was stupid and banged on my transmission's input shaft with a hammer. I won't do that again.

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Thanks to BarryGMC I got the idea to take after it with a bastard file and use the old pilot bearing as a tester. After 400 strokes I had this and a sore arm.

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I mean 400 strokes in one place. I then moved a little bit and did another 400 strokes. It didn't seem to be doing anything at all. So what did I do?

Arr ARR ARR! :lolsmack:

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About 5 mins of the grinder and boom

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That's what I'm talkin' bout, JACK!
So now...get up on the JACK!

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I didn't have a little helper today so I had to figure out a way to jack the jack with my leg while holding the transmission on the jack with one hand. The blue line shows my leg to my foot. Keep a phone nearby if you do this. It could fall off and break your face.

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Not sure what this picture was meant to show, but it slid in pretty easily with about 5 minutes of wiggling and pushing!

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I hand tightened the top bolts to keep it safe and sturdy.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 4th, 2013, 05:22 AM

After getting the top bolts in fingertight I slipped the bottom bolts in. Remember they go in backwards though. I went ahead and tightened them up good.

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Then I tightened the top bolts through the open transmission hump.

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Only then was I OK with lowering the jack. Safety first!

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Now for that stinkin linkage. I put the first one on and it wouldn't fit. I scraped a little of the paint away and put it on a little. it goes on with the threaded spot pointing down. Then I banged it with a wrench to get it back on.

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I ran the bolt through and held it with vise grips while I used the impact on the other side.

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The back one stuck out far enough I could whack it with a hammer to get it back on and bolted up.

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I almost forgot the transmission bolts.

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Can't forget the little tabs either.

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Then the drain plug goes back in. I might need some touchup after all the up-and-downs on the jack.

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Tying it back up, the driveshaft goes next. I held it high and to the driver's side so I could get it pushed into the gasket on the end of the transmission.

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Then I set the rear portion in the joint.

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I put the Ubolts on last and tightened them up.

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Don't fear the dirt. I'll give her a proper washup after winter. I was in a rush today because I need to get Cecilia out of my garage this weekend.

Funny thing, I wound up with four little bolts that I have no idea where they go. Um...

And as I typed that it dawned on me that they go in the flywheel cover plate that I forgot about. :lolsmack:

I'll get that on Saturday.

gmc1963

October 6th, 2013, 01:01 AM

get some bins for parts. itll be easier to put them back on in order.

FetchMeAPepsi

October 6th, 2013, 03:47 AM

get some bins for parts. itll be easier to put them back on in order.

That's not a bad idea. I might pick up a set or two. Right now I'm putting the smaller parts in plastic halloween cups.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 7th, 2013, 01:02 AM

Finishing up I slipped the flywheel cover back on. It has to kinda wedge under the back side under the bellhousing mounts.

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I put the front bolts in first to line it up. Just finger tight.

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Then the back ones. After they're tight I tightened up the front. This is a cover so it doesn't need 800 ft./lbs. of torque!

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Then it was time for some oil! I got a transfer pump a few months ago.

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Then I carefully measured out 28 oz. of part number 58304, Red Line 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil because that's how much the manual says it takes. I shouldn't have. It took a whole quart.

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Put the fill plug back in

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I Put all the bolts back in the hump. Boy that looks odd tied down with old bolts and in an unpainted floor. :(

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I poked the shifter through the hole.

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Then went underneath and tied it to the Rockwell T221 linkage

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Then I took the two bolts back out of the tail section of the transmission (it wont leak) then put the bracket back on it and bolt it back down.

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I put my brand spankin new shift boot on. it didn't fit. Mainly because 2wd Hi is all the way forward. It collapses the boot too much and throws it into 4wd Hi. I need to find a different boot. I ended up taking it back off.

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Here's the ring.

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And finally the freshly painted handle.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 7th, 2013, 04:49 AM

Then I started her up and took her for a spin!

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The transmission performed flawlessly! And the new clutch was great! I was able to engage it without pulling my foot all the way up to my ear.

I pulled out of the garage, into the drive, and into the street. I shifted to 1st and took off VROOOMMM!!! Then I went to shift to second. I took my foot off the gas....And my joy was interrupted by this maddening SKREEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!
it sounded like dragging chains behind me. Ugh.

I pulled her around to the back yard and made peace with having to rebuild the Rockwell T221 transfer case (Also called a Timkin T221).

I'll go through the step-by-steps like normal for that but I want you guys to know one thing. I took the U bolts off the drive shaft going from the Rockwell to the rear end and....

..... BONG!!!!!!:ahhhh:

The entire shaft fell out in the dirt! I was like, Hubba-whaaa?!!?!

There lying in the sand by the rear end was the nut and washer that SHOULD have been tightly clamped on the rear end through the drive shaft. It was entirely off! So thats my noise.

All that rebuilding, knuckle busting, and changing my entire rebuild schedule, but I could have skipped it all and tightened a nut. THANKS OBAMA! :lolsmack:

Oh well. I had fun when i wasn't pulling my hair out. And I learned something. Always a good day when you can say that. i love this truck!

FetchMeAPepsi

October 7th, 2013, 04:56 PM

Before finding the wayward driveshaft I mentioned that I dropped the Rockwell T221. Here's how I did it.

First, I disconnected all of the drive shafts. There are two "U" bolts on every shaft with four nuts on the end of them. IIRC they're 1/2 inch bolts.

The rear shaft

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The input shaft that goes to the transmission

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And the front shaft

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Sorry for the pic quality. The camera got smudged and I didn't notice till I was copying the pics over.

The Ubolts probably won't just fall out once you get the nuts off. You can bang them with a hammer (put the nut back on a little so you don't buggar them up!) or use a big screwdriver to pry them off.

And you should tie or prop up the input shaft so it doesn't pull on the new gasket you put in and cause a leak later.

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Take the cotter pin out of the shift linkage at the two points on the transfer case. Then pound the pin out with a hammer. I always put it back in afterwards (and the cotter pin) so it doesn't get lost.

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Unscrew your speedometer cable

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 7th, 2013, 05:07 PM

Drain the oil so you loose a little weight.

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To get the bolts out I had to go out and grab a $30.00 set of sockets from Autozone. On one hand I thought, dang that's $30.00 I didn't plan on spending. On the other hand....New tools!:champagne:

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My transfer case fluid was a healthy chocolate milk color. I dont think it came from the factory like that. :headscratch:

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 7th, 2013, 05:44 PM

Stick a jack under the transfer case because it's HEAVY.

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Then unscrew those 15/16 bolts from the passenger side. this was one of the pics that was messed up but they're huge bolts you can see by just squatting down and looking under the truck. Very easy to spot.
They're very short bolts too so don't get crazy.

Now take the bracket bolts loose where it connects to the emergency brake. there's two bolts on the rear, two underneath. You can see the bolt holes they came out of right above the bolts in my hand.

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Another pic that messed up is the underneath bolts. When you take these out the tranny will try to fall. Make sure you put the plug in the drain hole and that the transfer case is braced up by the jack!

It will try to twist too, be careful.

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When it's out pick the dirt dobber nests off. Mine had something like concrete on it too. not sure what that came from. I had to chisel it off with a screwdriver.

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Anyway, that's it for removal. I hosed mine off with a pressure washer after washing the inside of my garage from the tranny repair. Both were a hot mess.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 8th, 2013, 05:37 PM

I know most of you guys won't have (or be interested in) a 4x4 so this part might be kinda boring for ya. I'll try to hurry it along.

Today I ordered a pieced together rebuild kit from Rock Auto for about $113.00. The only kits I found online complete were almost $300 :ahhhh:
I ain't spending that. I have a budget here!

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Here's my shopping list. I'll edit it if they arrive and dont fit or I missed anything:

The Seals:

Input Shaft Seal SKF Part Number #15655
Output Shaft Seal National Parts #472164 (x2)
Shift Shaft Seal SKF Part Number #7440 (x2)

The Bearings/Sleeves:

Rear Output Shaft Bearing (Cupped) SKF Part Number #BR15126
Front Outer Bearing National Parts #207L
Front Inner Bearing National Parts #209L
Rear Bearing Sleeve National Parts #15245
Front Bearing Sleeve SKF #BR14276
Main Shaft Pilot Bearing SKF #JH1612

Next up, the teardown dun dun DUNNN!!!

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 10th, 2013, 06:23 AM

I spent the last two days cleaning up from the tranny rebuild. It looked like a bunch of dirty grease gremlins had a night of drunken debauchery in my tools. Eww.:poke:

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So I rubbed them down with a roll of paper towels and some mineral spirits. That stuff is good for cleaning grease. The little square (3ft by 2ft or so) of plywood that I put on my bench to keep it from the worst of the paint, dirt and grease was so bad I had to take it outside and wire-wheel it to get it usable again. That got me started on wanting to wire wheel more stuff so I put all of my U-Joints in the carb cleaner for a two hour soak.

Then the FEDEX truck showed up with half of my seals. WTG Rock Auto! :thumbsup:

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I put them away then remembered my NOS muffler I got a few months ago. It's got a cheesy chick on it trying to look all shy. I don't know what that has to do with mufflers.

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I tried to slide it on myself. It has a larger side on the intake that fits right over my existing exhaust bits, but I cant get it to stay on with just sliding it on. it falls off when I start the truck. It sounded pretty good while it was on though. Still throaty but without the loud thunderous knock. I put it away again for now.

I moved back in the garage and touched up the step supports with more herculiner.

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Put my old pressure plate, clutch, throwout and pilot bearings on a shelf. I can't throw them away yet. Hoarder!

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Then I pulled the Ubolts out of the carb cleaner bath and put them on paper towels to drip while I wipe them down. The powder puff stepped up then and noticed something I didn't.

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Did you see it? Here's a closeup

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Yep, that's a smiley face! Powder Puff said, "daddy, this is probably the happiest job you have ever done on Cecilia, huh?" :lolflag:
Gotta love how kids' minds work. I wire wheeled them all down then sprayed them with Ospho. I'm sure you can guess where I'm going with them. :D

While they soak and convert I turned to my transfer case. I wire wheeled on it a little more but it's nasty stuff was still too hard. Instead I sprayed it with more Super Clean. Then I took off the side bracket.

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Here's a pic of the bolt with all the pieces on it in order for reference. They didn't put any drain holes in the bracket so the metal spacer sits in water all the time. It corrodes to the bracket. I had to break mine loose with a hammer on one side.

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And that was it for the day. Piddling stuff really, but it all needed doing. Here's to a good healthy cleanup and taking one more bite out of the elephant! :beer:

FetchMeAPepsi

October 21st, 2013, 08:27 PM

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. It got c*o*l*d here so I've been out of the truck mood lately. I guess I got too quiet because I got other members kickin me in the butt to get an update :lolflag:
I love this place:clap:

Here's what I did while I wasn't working on Cecilia.

Got a junk 4wheeler someone was done with for ...wait for it....

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Oh yeah! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

This is what I hope it will look similar to some day:

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Right now it looks like that rolled in dirt and razor blades. And the gas line is cut. Cecilia has given me confidence that I can at least try to make it putter around for the kids. All you need are good bones, right?

Then I did this (stick):

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So i could try to build this before winter hits hard

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Steel is expensive. And I might be getting into more than I can handle, but I thought the same thing with Cecilia. I'm learning that once you get your hands into mechanical stuff they're all pretty simple concepts until you get wires involved. There's no magic there after all. Who knew!?:headscratch:

So after all that we took a break to do this:

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yep, that's 8 points buddy! The redhead was a happy camper and we'll have some meat in the freezer for jerky and stew. Nom nom nom.

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It's been a good time, but ya'll are right. I haven't done any truck stuff. I've got limited time to put the log splitter together (borrowed welder) so it'll be a little while till I get trucky again. I'll have alot of the splitter put together next weekend and the following weekend. It's gonna get colder pretty quick though and when it does I'll be done outside till spring, just a heads up. Like molasses I dont move much when it gets below 60 degrees. Brrr!

BarryGMC

October 22nd, 2013, 02:43 AM

tommyduncan

October 23rd, 2013, 02:44 AM

Just keep chipping away at it. That's how things get finished. Try to bare it long enough to get whole assemblies into the warmth and do what you can.
I just got mine back together finally. It was a chilly 82° here today.:poke:

FetchMeAPepsi

November 8th, 2013, 04:30 AM

60 degrees? Crap it's barely got above 60 for while. Love it.... New roofs and painting are on right now. Most of my work is done in the shop when it's cold. 50 to 60 is best inside. I can't handle it above 75 and 20 percent humidity. Well we are all different.

Yup! I know people up north call it garage weather or something like that. They have heaters in the garage and really get alot done. Me, I'm sitting on the heater vent until spring gets here, counting the seconds :lolflag:

Just keep chipping away at it. That's how things get finished. Try to bare it long enough to get whole assemblies into the warmth and do what you can.
I just got mine back together finally. It was a chilly 82° here today.:poke:

82! Man I'd kill for that. It was 64 today but yesterday it was 45!:noway::noway::noway:

I started a thread in the "other threads and projects" section on the wood splitter if you guys get bored and need some pictures. Once it's finished I'll try to get the transfer case put together. I'm missin my Cecilia again but I have to get this wood split before it gets super cold.

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:morecoffee:

BarryGMC

November 21st, 2013, 05:59 PM

15 degrees this morning... The welding helmet keeps fogging up. So I am taking a break. I got your info yesterday. Today or tomorrow I will get Cecilia's Christmas present off to you. You know the ladies all like things that sparkle. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

November 22nd, 2013, 03:35 AM

BarryGMC

November 22nd, 2013, 07:37 PM

No. Its just something from my family to yours. It's a little payment forward in life. Plus I think you have the best thread out there. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

November 22nd, 2013, 07:47 PM

No. Its just something from my family to yours. It's a little payment forward in life. Plus I think you have the best thread out there. Barry

Thanks Barry! You have a great lookin bunch of helpers there too!

If I still had birthdays it would be arriving on mine. Powder puff is looking forward to it too. She has a bet going that it's something made from chocolate :lolflag:

I'll keep an eye out. BTW, today it's 25 outside and sleeting like a mad dog. BRRR! I need to get that splitter finished ASAP! :whipit::notworthy:

FetchMeAPepsi

December 4th, 2013, 01:35 AM

A little truck update: tomorrow a storm blows through that is supposed to drop 2 inches of sleet and up to 8 inches of snow on us. Cecilia is parked outside now so I can park in my garage again and stay warm. To be outside means she'll get wet in the cab again when it rains or gets snowy. Why?

Well theres a hole somewhere that's leaking water into the cab. I haven't found it yet but it runs down the drivers side by the fuse box and into the transmission hump. it has left a nasty amount of pitting in the past so this winter I thought I'd put a stop to it for less than 4.00

Meet Cling-Wrap, the new 300 ft truck coating for those of us with small budgets and little imagination! It comes with this handy redheaded applicator too! What a bargain!

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When its done you can put it on a shelf at Wal Mart or use it as a slip and slide!

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With any luck it'll also keep the water out. If not I'll know it's coming from someplace else. where I have no clue!

BarryGMC

December 4th, 2013, 01:57 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

December 4th, 2013, 02:07 AM

WDShaffer

December 5th, 2013, 03:07 AM

At 25 degrees, water is like concrete too. harbor freight sells plastic tarps pretty cheap, and it can double as a sun shade/spatter guard in the good weather.

FetchMeAPepsi

December 5th, 2013, 03:34 PM

It's probably the windshield seal. Get your self some liquid butyl sealant and try to get it under the seal. Or you can use some windshield adhesive. The stuff you use to set modern glass and get it into any cracks or pulled away spots on the seal. The second spot that may be giving you trouble is the drip rail seam that goes around the top of the cab. If it looks bad, grind out the rust and old sealant and get som DuPont seam sealant and lay a bead around the seam. Barry

I'll order some liquid butyl sealant and see how that goes. I've got seam sealing on my list of repairs in spring :D

At 25 degrees, water is like concrete too. harbor freight sells plastic tarps pretty cheap, and it can double as a sun shade/spatter guard in the good weather.

LOL! That's true. My glass rubber is hard all the time though. It's like a black rock in summer or winter. I wonder if it's original to the truck and just crazy degraded? :poke:

I worry I'm going to crack the glass when I try to chisel it off.

WDShaffer

December 5th, 2013, 05:48 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

December 5th, 2013, 06:13 PM

When using a knife to cut the seal, be very careful with the point of the knife, if it snags the edge of the glass it could crack.
If you have never removed a glued-in window:
1) use a fine braided wire like a guitar string or piano wire
2) always apply force parallel to the glass edge, as any small bending or pressure force on the edge will quickly break the window
3) use a gentle sawing motion with the force applied towards the metal frame
4) take your time if you want to save the glass.

I can't imagine a knife would cut this seal unless there's a power blade on it. I'm serious about how hard it is. It's like a rock. from the description there I guess this isnt normal. I dont want to break the glass of course but maybe I can take a propane torch to it or something and get it more pliable?
Just thinkin out loud

BarryGMC

December 5th, 2013, 07:27 PM

David R Leifheit

December 5th, 2013, 07:40 PM

When using a knife to cut the seal, be very careful with the point of the knife, if it snags the edge of the glass it could crack.
If you have never removed a glued-in window:
1) use a fine braided wire like a guitar string or piano wire
2) always apply force parallel to the glass edge, as any small bending or pressure force on the edge will quickly break the window
3) use a gentle sawing motion with the force applied towards the metal frame
4) take your time if you want to save the glass.

Since the windows on these trucks are not glued in (or shouldn't be) this should not be a concern.

Although it is good advice for windows on vehicle with the glued in windshield. Such as my old (long gone to scrap) mid 70's Pontiac...

David R Leifheit

December 5th, 2013, 07:48 PM

I can't imagine a knife would cut this seal unless there's a power blade on it. I'm serious about how hard it is. It's like a rock. from the description there I guess this isnt normal. I dont want to break the glass of course but maybe I can take a propane torch to it or something and get it more pliable?
Just thinkin out loud

Do -not- get a torch near it. One "hot spot" while the rest isn't could very easily cause the windshield to shatter...

My '63 4000 had a good windshield, I was removing the overheat rack extensions (cutting them off) and one small piece of slag dropped onto the windshield wiper. Sent cracks out almost immediately.

With the windshield on the 60-63 being more expensive and harder to install/remove I would suggest extreme care if you decide to remove it. Cut slowly, a little at a time. In the past I have heard a horror story or two about someone breaking the window trying to get it in, getting it to seat in the gasket due to the curves. On one of my '61s there is an obvious gap, bottom center of the windshield, in the gasket due probably to shrinkage over the years. During wet weather the rain would bubble through to the inside while driving. After serious contemplation about removing the windshield, I decided to fill the space with clear silicone sealant. Then carefully went around the entire window rubbing sealant into the entire gasket to seal any cracks or other potential problems. I could have just covered it with a bead, but I didn't want it to look like I had added sealant. A little clear sealant and my fingers "massaging" the seal into the cracks and around the edges.

GMCDAC

December 6th, 2013, 12:31 AM

I always cut mine out from the inside. I just use a utility knife and I follow the metal flange that the seal wraps around. The seal is really thin there. Then just push it out top first. I pull old glass all the time. It takes about 5 minutes to do. I leave the old seal on the glass until I am ready to install. It helps protect the edges of the glass. Barry

Barry is a lot more brave than me! I have a friend that owns a automotive glass shop in town and he is who I rely on when glass has to be removed, but with some patience and help using his cutting technique gives me a little more confidence now too.

Do -not- get a torch near it. One "hot spot" while the rest isn't could very easily cause the windshield to shatter...

My '63 4000 had a good windshield, I was removing the overheat rack extensions (cutting them off) and one small piece of slag dropped onto the windshield wiper. Sent cracks out almost immediately.

With the windshield on the 60-63 being more expensive and harder to install/remove I would suggest extreme care if you decide to remove it. Cut slowly, a little at a time. In the past I have heard a horror story or two about someone breaking the window trying to get it in, getting it to seat in the gasket due to the curves. On one of my '61s there is an obvious gap, bottom center of the windshield, in the gasket due probably to shrinkage over the years. During wet weather the rain would bubble through to the inside while driving. After serious contemplation about removing the windshield, I decided to fill the space with clear silicone sealant. Then carefully went around the entire window rubbing sealant into the entire gasket to seal any cracks or other potential problems. I could have just covered it with a bead, but I didn't want it to look like I had added sealant. A little clear sealant and my fingers "massaging" the seal into the cracks and around the edges.

I did a couple of similar repairs on my rock hard windshield gasket on my '55 GMC using standard black Permatex silicone. Permatex makes a clear "flowable" windshield silicon that is a great product. I discovered it by accident many years ago when I was looking for a way to make my own silicone coated sponge tires for racing HO scale slot cars. After that I have used it to repair numerous windshield leaks. See the link below.

I sure have to figure out posting links again now that I'm using Firefox!

DAC

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FetchMeAPepsi

December 6th, 2013, 07:19 PM

I always cut mine out from the inside. I just use a utility knife and I follow the metal flange that the seal wraps around. The seal is really thin there. Then just push it out top first. I pull old glass all the time. It takes about 5 minutes to do. I leave the old seal on the glass until I am ready to install. It helps protect the edges of the glass. Barry

I'll look at the inside but I think its just as hard inside as it is out. More like hard plastic than any kind of rubber.

Do -not- get a torch near it. One "hot spot" while the rest isn't could very easily cause the windshield to shatter...

My '63 4000 had a good windshield, I was removing the overheat rack extensions (cutting them off) and one small piece of slag dropped onto the windshield wiper. Sent cracks out almost immediately.

With the windshield on the 60-63 being more expensive and harder to install/remove I would suggest extreme care if you decide to remove it. Cut slowly, a little at a time. In the past I have heard a horror story or two about someone breaking the window trying to get it in, getting it to seat in the gasket due to the curves. On one of my '61s there is an obvious gap, bottom center of the windshield, in the gasket due probably to shrinkage over the years. During wet weather the rain would bubble through to the inside while driving. After serious contemplation about removing the windshield, I decided to fill the space with clear silicone sealant. Then carefully went around the entire window rubbing sealant into the entire gasket to seal any cracks or other potential problems. I could have just covered it with a bead, but I didn't want it to look like I had added sealant. A little clear sealant and my fingers "massaging" the seal into the cracks and around the edges.

that's a good warning. i didnt think about it cracking the glass.

I did a couple of similar repairs on my rock hard windshield gasket on my '55 GMC using standard black Permatex silicone. Permatex makes a clear "flowable" windshield silicon that is a great product. I discovered it by accident many years ago when I was looking for a way to make my own silicone coated sponge tires for racing HO scale slot cars. After that I have used it to repair numerous windshield leaks. See the link below.

i put some sealant in the ol cart for my next order. If its a small crack or something I can fill it with that for now and move up to a replacement when the time comes. How did you get that hard 55 gasket removed? Hammer and chisel? :lolflag:

FetchMeAPepsi

December 6th, 2013, 10:51 PM

Today I didn't do anything to my truck. She's covered in SNOW!!!

But I did get something in the mail from a fellow member! BarryGMC said a couple of weeks ago that he was sending a present. I figured it'd be a string of welding beads because my welding is pretty crappy but he said, nope! Just keep an eye out. you'll like it. :headscratch:

I waited and waited.. I paced the floor. I did a puzzle. I twiddled my thumbs....

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Finally it came today and after checking it (and grinning like a nut) I let the Powder Puff take over.

She carefully opened the box because I told her it was something very special that she shouldn't scratch up. Then she lost it. Daddy, it's a...it's a...It's a thing like "The Redhead" painted! Ooooh, it's so shinnnneeyyyy!!! (rub rub rub!)

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I told her we should pose with them for a picture. she said, let me get them right. They have to be perfect you know because they're veeryyy speeecial!

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I laughed and told her she should be fun with it. She said, Ok, I can just wear them like Cecilia does!

And this picture was born.

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This was such a great surprise. We passed them back and forth several times just looking at them shine. For anyone that doesn't know these are the Custom style emblems. The standard ones, like I have on Cecilia now, are painted white. They shined up real nice, but nothing like this. Here's a pic of them in my fire glow. The reflection was really neat but didn't transfer to a pic very well.

All of you guys are all invited to come over tonight and stare at them twinkling in the firelight with me. Bring a casserole.

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Thank you BarryGMC, you surprised two very happy grease-monkeys on a dreary cold day! We can't wait to get Cecilia's new "ear rings" on her. Stay safe up there!:yourock:

GMCDAC

December 7th, 2013, 12:27 AM

I'll look at the inside but I think its just as hard inside as it is out. More like hard plastic than any kind of rubber.

that's a good warning. i didnt think about it cracking the glass.

i put some sealant in the ol cart for my next order. If its a small crack or something I can fill it with that for now and move up to a replacement when the time comes. How did you get that hard 55 gasket removed? Hammer and chisel? :lolflag:

LOL---I'm afraid the rock hard gasket is still in the truck! It had 2 gaps like David described that I filled with the black Permatex. So far I haven't needed to use the flowable stuff on it. My door gaskets are where the weather gets in the '55, along with a couple rust holes---. This gasket will stay in until I get more serious about bodywork on it.

Now how cool is that present from Barry? Not only great looking parts but Y'all are having fun with them too! They will be great on your GMC!

May I ask where "Edmond" is?

DAC

Rockdriller

December 7th, 2013, 03:01 AM

She sure is beautiful, Pepsi.
I have a feeling she won't let you get too sad. That's sure a happy face she's got goin' on there.
Me bein a Dad to three gals, youngest 26 yrs.....I sure have a natural understanding for how it goes for you.
For the most part....it's absolutely unbelievable.

But sometimes,....it's absolutely unbelievable how quick you can get your butt kicked by a few little girls.

BTW.....That's a "whole lotta love", Barry.

BarryGMC

December 7th, 2013, 03:53 AM

Great stuff Pepsi . That old girl needs some sparkle. And I really enjoy your enthusiasm . Keep it up. Barry.

FetchMeAPepsi

January 22nd, 2014, 08:59 PM

Not a real update, but I need to pick up some wood so I slapped her back together a little this warm-ish weekend. I'll need to put the bed temporarily on this next weekend and instead of killing myself I ordered up one of these

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It comes in 2 boxes and only one arrived yet. So far I have a crossmember and a buncha wheels and bolts but I'm pretty excited about gettin a new toy :D

I've been wanting one forever for picking up the bed and if necessary removing the engine for painting and fiddling. :bananadance:

Cayoterun

January 22nd, 2014, 09:38 PM

GMCDAC

January 28th, 2014, 12:04 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

January 28th, 2014, 10:07 PM

Hey, Fetch: Glad to see you back on the truck:

That's one tool you'll never be sorry you bought. You find more uses for it, than you ever dreamed. You'll probably use it about as much as pliers, cold chisel, hammer, and cutting torch. Plus, the sore hip will love ya' for it. The "apprentices" will like it too.

Many years ago, when we got ours, the boys were small, and I heard little bro. squalling and yelling. Looked behind the truck. Big bro. had hooked the hook in little bros. belt and hoisting him to the sky. Little bro. was hanging on for dear life.
Had to take a time out for a little safety lesson, and stern attitude adjustment.

Its been really warm for 2-3 days at a time even right after that polar vortex stuff blew down and froze us. If it hits 60, I'm outside doin somethin like this :superhappy:

Now that story right there is one of the funniest I've heard :lolsmack: I can just see "the Boy" squealing and hollering as the girls crank him up! I'm telling the girls about it right now!

Great score, Pepsi! I bet you are already wondering how you got along without one. I built a self leveling platform for mine to put stuff up on the roof of the office in my shop.

DAC

Sad news Dac...The fold-away legs and frame portion got damaged in shipping by USPS (they say....) so they sent it back and now it's out of stock. Grrr!:pullinghairout:

Hoping it'll get here in the next 2-4 weeks. I'd like to see some pics of the self leveling one you have though. that sounds like a cool little toy!

I wonder if I can make mine do this:

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GMCDAC

January 30th, 2014, 12:14 AM

Sad news Dac...The fold-away legs and frame portion got damaged in shipping by USPS (they say....) so they sent it back and now it's out of stock. Grrr!:pullinghairout:

Hoping it'll get here in the next 2-4 weeks. I'd like to see some pics of the self leveling one you have though. that sounds like a cool little toy!

Wow, they musta ran over it with an 18 wheeler or something! Hopefully they fill your order soon. Here are a couple pics of mine with the platform on it, but I must not have taken one with it jacked clear up. Got it folded up right now. I't not engineered perfect but it works well. My hoist came from Sam's Club.

DAC

FetchMeAPepsi

January 30th, 2014, 02:53 PM

Wow, they musta ran over it with an 18 wheeler or something! Hopefully they fill your order soon. Here are a couple pics of mine with the platform on it, but I must not have taken one with it jacked clear up. Got it folded up right now. I't not engineered perfect but it works well. My hoist came from Sam's Club.

DAC

Thats the best peepover drive in movie theater setup I've ever seen! I would have had a blast with it back in my old hometown as a teen. Comfy seats, good movie, cozy blanket and a good lookin girl beside me. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 

Very cool setup!

IDK what they did with mine. It was just the tubing pieces, ram and hook. They would have had to drag it 30 miles down the road to hurt it. Maybe something fell out of the box? And they didn't tell me either, I had to call when the tracking number paused for 2 days.

I'll let you know how it goes.

GMCDAC

January 31st, 2014, 12:20 AM

Hantke

February 2nd, 2014, 08:35 PM

Great thread! i've been reading a couple pages every day. probably been lurking on here off and on for a few months haha. Keep up the good work!
If you don't mind me asking a question (didn't see it as important enough to start a new thread) why did you go for the ford red as the engine color and chevy orange on the tranny / transfer case? i had always assumed that GMC and Chevrolet were both the bright orange engine block, like how ford does a lot of blue engine blocks, and Cummins favors red. Then again, i could be dead wrong!

FetchMeAPepsi

February 3rd, 2014, 01:58 AM

Ha! It didn't dawn on me that the seats I was putting upstairs would be a way to elevate spectators to see over fences and such---LOL! Thanks for the compliment.

Yeah keep us posted on your hoist. I still find it odd they could damage that stuff too!

DAC

Yeah! You can use it for stargazing or at parades from the back of the pickup too. I really like that idea. Snuggle time with the little lady :thumbsup:

My replacement should be here Monday. They called and said that the box was damaged again but the pipes were OK. They had to re-box it. I told them "really? it's just pipes! Just bring me the bits and I'll be happy." They didnt think it was funny. :(

Corporate America is way too sensitive sometimes. Too many lawsuits I guess.

Great thread! i've been reading a couple pages every day. probably been lurking on here off and on for a few months haha. Keep up the good work!
If you don't mind me asking a question (didn't see it as important enough to start a new thread) why did you go for the ford red as the engine color and chevy orange on the tranny / transfer case? i had always assumed that GMC and Chevrolet were both the bright orange engine block, like how ford does a lot of blue engine blocks, and Cummins favors red. Then again, i could be dead wrong!

Hi Hantke! Thanks for reading my mess. You gotta remember that up until like 1972(?) or so Chevy and GMC were different things. Competitively so!

I didn't paint the engine yet but the reference page here ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) says that ford red is the closest match for that and the transfer case. The transmission was painted a more orangy color like you see in my test pics.

The main reason for choosing Chevy Orange was my local shop's limited supply of engine paints. IIRC I tried four or five of their orangy paints and Chevy Orange was the closest I found. It still needed more rust in it to match properly but even so once it dried it was better than the chrysler I was leaning toward. The chrysler dried too dark.

I'm pretty happy with it. Custom paint is expensive, but I probably could have taken the tranny down to get the colors colormatched at one of those places that do that. I'd probably do that if I had to do it over. Even having paint numbers that arent "engine paints" would be a good starting point I think.

Now my wheels are turning again. I can't wait till Spring!

:cheers:

Hantke

February 3rd, 2014, 03:29 AM

Hi Hantke! Thanks for reading my mess. You gotta remember that up until like 1972(?) or so Chevy and GMC were different things. Competitively so!

I didn't paint the engine yet but the reference page here ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) says that ford red is the closest match for that and the transfer case. The transmission was painted a more orangy color like you see in my test pics.

The main reason for choosing Chevy Orange was my local shop's limited supply of engine paints. IIRC I tried four or five of their orangy paints and Chevy Orange was the closest I found. It still needed more rust in it to match properly but even so once it dried it was better than the chrysler I was leaning toward. The chrysler dried too dark.

I'm pretty happy with it. Custom paint is expensive, but I probably could have taken the tranny down to get the colors colormatched at one of those places that do that. I'd probably do that if I had to do it over. Even having paint numbers that arent "engine paints" would be a good starting point I think.

Now my wheels are turning again. I can't wait till Spring!

:cheers:
I'm one of those lurkers, i go from reading a forum for months to 50 posts a day for a year! i do really enjoy a well laid out journal though, so thank you for the good read!

I did like how the chevy orange was close in color though, i've seen both dark red and light green used on pumpkins and transfer cases which surprisingly looked really good (i'm not usually a huge fan of green).
I've already laid out the base plans for my build and i don't even have the truck yet! :lolflag:

My favorite is (I'm spacing the name of the company, not International or Navistar) a farm equipment companies dark red enamel, i rebuilt part of one of their combines and really liked the color. My plans are to run with CAT black enamel, CAT yellow is the best crack finder in the world if you need to find some cracks. (sorry, i'm easily distracted!) My main plan is to run with the dark red pumpkin and tranny (i'm assuming i'm getting a 2wd) with chevy orange block and i'd like to some how run a nice chrome valve cover, but we'll see when i get one... :yourock:

FetchMeAPepsi

February 12th, 2014, 11:24 PM

I'm one of those lurkers, i go from reading a forum for months to 50 posts a day for a year! i do really enjoy a well laid out journal though, so thank you for the good read!

I did like how the chevy orange was close in color though, i've seen both dark red and light green used on pumpkins and transfer cases which surprisingly looked really good (i'm not usually a huge fan of green).
I've already laid out the base plans for my build and i don't even have the truck yet! :lolflag:

My favorite is (I'm spacing the name of the company, not International or Navistar) a farm equipment companies dark red enamel, i rebuilt part of one of their combines and really liked the color. My plans are to run with CAT black enamel, CAT yellow is the best crack finder in the world if you need to find some cracks. (sorry, i'm easily distracted!) My main plan is to run with the dark red pumpkin and tranny (i'm assuming i'm getting a 2wd) with chevy orange block and i'd like to some how run a nice chrome valve cover, but we'll see when i get one... :yourock:

thanks Hantke. You sound like you have this paint thing all planned out :thumbsup:

My next paint project will be the transfer case I think, and then the rear bumper. I got some Eastwood epoxy paint for the bumper that I'd like to try. I have heard stories about it being rock hard like POR15 so we'll see how that goes.

Oh and an update on the cherry picker, which another member on here bought right after me (you know who you are!), It ships with several lower grade metric bolts. So I'll be swapping those out for super-ultra tough bolts and thanks to the other member I don't even have to spend a week looking up numbers. Thanks Other Member! I'll post them here once I get them.

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And my last part came in finally. It was all re-taped and nasty looking. It weighs about 100 lbs :ahhhh:

Remember a while ago I mentioned that my fedex driver is lazy? Yeah, he should be in a different position. Maybe one of the desk guys. He left the box lying right outside my garage door and guess what The Blonde did?
Vroom Vroom!

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It wasn't damaged thank goodness. I still considered calling Fedex and complaining. I mean, there's like 15 feet of difference from the porch (safe) and the front of the garage (danger!). What the heck, Fedex?!?

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 16th, 2014, 07:52 PM

This weekend was semi-warmed up enough to get the lift put together. I should have been roasting more coffee beans but I was finding no motivation. I wanted to play with my truck stuff.

I thought it would be a lot of hard work, but nope. It was easy. :thumbsup:

We laid out the parts

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Like the instructions said we waved the jack handle over the parts three times, chanting "Lift and haul, lift and haul, lift and haul..."

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And poof! It was done! :ahhhh:
Technology these days is amazing!

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Oh, and Coyote? I blame you for this shot :poke:
She ran inside to get a belt like your boy but she didn't have any thick enough that I felt OK hoisting her by it so she rode it instead.
Powder Puff says she's riding her version of a broom off into the sky :lolflag:
Great fun!

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Really though it took about 1 1/2 hours to put it together with wrenches. You need a 13/16 wrench to do it, which I didnt have so I used vise grips. And the wheels are different sizes. Small ones go on front. We didn't notice till it was put together so it took us an extra 20 minutes to swap wheels. But now she's built. I should be able to remove and remount my bed at will now I think. Easy peasy for when I have to run to Lowes for stuff or get firewood.

Sometimes I get in a hurry anyway

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Foley, I havent got my extra bolts yet but I'll make a trip to Tractor Supply in the next couple of weeks so I'll look then.

Heres the bolt list:

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FetchMeAPepsi

February 16th, 2014, 11:18 PM

Well it looks like I can get SAE (standard, not metric) bolts at BoltDepot.com in grade 8 zinc plated for about 38.00 shipped. Heres the bolt conversion chart ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) I used.

Why upgrade the bolts?
The bolts that come with it are Grade 1 equivalent metric 4.6 bolts.

The strength for bolts this size in grade 2 bolts is 11033 pounds. That puts the safety shear strength (/3) at 3677 lbs. Not 2 tons (4000 lbs).

(strength of bolts from this PDF ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) if you wanna get into the meat and potatoes of the figures)

And that's grade 2 bolts. Grade 1? I dunno. I couldn't find a good chart that showed it.

Grade 8 is about 7455 pounds. How heavy is your entire truck? :saywhat:

ARR ARR ARR!

I'll post part numbers when they get here and I make sure they work OK.

Foley

February 17th, 2014, 12:57 AM

I too had been dabbling around with the idea of getting a shop crane/cherry picker. About the time I was doing the shopping, Fetch ordered his and it wasn' much more than a week later that I decided to also order the 2 ton Harbor Freight Deluxe Racing Shop Crane. It should do everything I need it to do with heavy "stuff" including big tractor wheels, small engines, my Aunt Bertha and I figure it would probably move a 305E if you were careful. Harbor Freight was also offering the "Once in a life Time Sale", and I also found a 25% off coupon, so there ya go. Bout $170 out the door.

The steel framing and the welds and the fact that it has cast steel wheels instead of rubber/plastic are all a plus for that price, but I wasn't real happy with the low grade bolts. I mentioned this to Fetch while he was quietly waiting for his damaged box of parts to be replaced. So I went on a search for some higher grade metric bolts. Many of the assembly bolts are metric grade 4.8 and a few of the bigger ones are metric grade 8.8. So I figured to bump them all up to 8.8 and 10.9 respectfully. I found the info I wanted on a metric grade chart that lists their stensil strength. I don't know much about "stensil", but I'm all about having "strength" for this project. After many days of looking I can tell you that these bolts are NOT to be found at Ace Hardware nor NAPA nor Home Depot nor Lowes nor Tractor Supply. But I did find all that I wanted and more by going to To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? They have it all. Sizes, strengths, different plating and fairly cheap shipping. I ordered up a replacement batch of all thirty four bolts and it came to about $50. Since the colors of this Racing Shop Crane are Grey and black, I went for a complete set of flat black coated racing bolts, and got some lock washers for the set, as none come with the Harbor Freight package.

There is one more thing I changed somewhat, and if I can ever figure out how to post decent pictures, I'll chime in and show you. It's a feature that would enhance any decent Racing Shop Crane. In conclusion I'll say it's really a sad thing to let a persons mind flounder around on a 4 day rainy stretch with no project to focus on. Look what happens.

Cayoterun

February 18th, 2014, 10:14 PM

Rockdriller

February 19th, 2014, 04:56 AM

I'm all about "more is better" and all that....
But the shear strength of the factory bolts on that hoist are so much more than the rated design calls for that I might have spent the cash on something a little more rewarding.

The bolts that are used on the lift cylinder (both top and bottom) require the highest shear rating of any other on the hoist. Because of the application, the shear requirements are cut in half (it is exposed to shear effects twice, once on each side of the cylinder ram) so we can double the rated capacity for a safe working load.

Theres always some smart guy just waiting for a chance to armchair engineer yer project.......aint there.

But of course, when using the lift for hoisting personnel, the safety factor is X4 of the calculated SWL.......so I'm not even sure if grade eight is enough for the Powder Puff pick.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 20th, 2014, 12:44 AM

Hang on, Powder Puff!!!

No joke, after the initial do's and don'ts stern training for safety's sake, they can find more ways to entertain themselves than you can shake a stick at. Our rider lawnmower, welding bench, or anything else not bolted to the floor has gone airborne.

The truck is coming along well. Congrats

I can see things heading that way! :ahhhh:
I'll be pulling my 305E off the trailer in a couple of days. After that I'll be looking for new and innovative ways to get into trouble :yeeuh:

I too had been dabbling around with the idea of getting a shop crane/cherry picker. About the time I was doing the shopping, Fetch ordered his and it wasn' much more than a week later that I decided to also order the 2 ton Harbor Freight Deluxe Racing Shop Crane. It should do everything I need it to do with heavy "stuff" including big tractor wheels, small engines, my Aunt Bertha and I figure it would probably move a 305E if you were careful. Harbor Freight was also offering the "Once in a life Time Sale", and I also found a 25% off coupon, so there ya go. Bout $170 out the door.

The steel framing and the welds and the fact that it has cast steel wheels instead of rubber/plastic are all a plus for that price, but I wasn't real happy with the low grade bolts. I mentioned this to Fetch while he was quietly waiting for his damaged box of parts to be replaced. So I went on a search for some higher grade metric bolts. Many of the assembly bolts are metric grade 4.8 and a few of the bigger ones are metric grade 8.8. So I figured to bump them all up to 8.8 and 10.9 respectfully. I found the info I wanted on a metric grade chart that lists their stensil strength. I don't know much about "stensil", but I'm all about having "strength" for this project. After many days of looking I can tell you that these bolts are NOT to be found at Ace Hardware nor NAPA nor Home Depot nor Lowes nor Tractor Supply. But I did find all that I wanted and more by going to To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? They have it all. Sizes, strengths, different plating and fairly cheap shipping. I ordered up a replacement batch of all thirty four bolts and it came to about $50. Since the colors of this Racing Shop Crane are Grey and black, I went for a complete set of flat black coated racing bolts, and got some lock washers for the set, as none come with the Harbor Freight package.

There is one more thing I changed somewhat, and if I can ever figure out how to post decent pictures, I'll chime in and show you. It's a feature that would enhance any decent Racing Shop Crane. In conclusion I'll say it's really a sad thing to let a persons mind flounder around on a 4 day rainy stretch with no project to focus on. Look what happens.

Thanks for all the rainy day footwork Foley! I went with SAE bolts instead because most of my tools are that. I think we made good choices and I'll sure feel better when I'm lifting heavier stuff after this.

I'm all about "more is better" and all that....
But the shear strength of the factory bolts on that hoist are so much more than the rated design calls for that I might have spent the cash on something a little more rewarding.

The bolts that are used on the lift cylinder (both top and bottom) require the highest shear rating of any other on the hoist. Because of the application, the shear requirements are cut in half (it is exposed to shear effects twice, once on each side of the cylinder ram) so we can double the rated capacity for a safe working load.

Theres always some smart guy just waiting for a chance to armchair engineer yer project.......aint there.

But of course, when using the lift for hoisting personnel, the safety factor is X4 of the calculated SWL.......so I'm not even sure if grade eight is enough for the Powder Puff pick.

I read that the max load for safety is /3 for shear and that ends up being about 300 lbs shy of the max load of the picker, that's why I was pretty sure Id want my bolts upgraded. Plus this is probably all chinese junk and you never know what youre getting there. I might not have *had* to do it, but for $38.00 I know that the frame will bend before the bolts do. That gives me a little piece of mind especially with the Powder Puff working right along with me so often. I just don't want to worry about her getting hurt. (Ever! but I'm paranoid :teehee:)

Maybe youre right about going to grade 100 or something! :thumbsup:

FetchMeAPepsi

February 20th, 2014, 12:54 AM

This weekend we dragged the new picker, who we now call ol' Max, (Maximum lift!) out and put the bed on Cecilia to get some wood and lowes supplies. His reach isn't quite long enough to load the bed from the rear, so we did a kinda side loading, then a rear lift to settle it over that hugely high bumper.

First we jacked it up then backed Cecilia next to it.

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Then we scooted Max closer to Cecilia and let the front settle down, with the back resting on the bumper fins.

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Finally we tied Max to the back of the bed and lifted it over the fins and settled it in. It looks pretty easy here (Powder puff is doing all the work, right?!) but it took us about 2 hours total.

It's sitting in place now waiting on another good day for me to bolt it down.

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You might be saying, "Hey Fetch! What are you doing? You're going backwards!" but really we just need to use her for a few runs and then the bed will come back off. Remember, I have new white oak slats to put in there!

Cayoterun

February 20th, 2014, 03:28 AM

GMCDAC

February 27th, 2014, 02:18 AM

Hi Fetch, I'm glad you and the "Powder Puff" are giving "Max" a workout! It is great that your weather is slowly improving so you guys can work outside again. Below zero at night again here and the high Saturday is supposed to be a whopping -3*!

I really dig that back bumper! I am going to try to build a similar one for my '55.

Keep the updates coming!---DAC

tommyduncan

February 28th, 2014, 02:07 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

February 28th, 2014, 03:11 PM

Hey, Fetch: You make me feel young again, and when my kids were the size of yours. Those younguns' will talk about spending that time with you and "Cec" when they have kids their age now. I bet the time you and they spent together will make memories that will last a lifetime. Plus what they learn from the experience will amaze you in their everyday life later on.
You have a great project going there in more ways than fixin' a truck.
Thanks for letting us ride along, and keep up the good work.
It's a fun ride for all of us.

I'm glad we can spark those memories for you Coyote. One of the things I say when I'm gathering my "crew" to go fiddle with Cecilia is "C'mon munchkins! Lets go make some memories and see if Daddy looses an arm today!" :lolflag:

Hi Fetch, I'm glad you and the "Powder Puff" are giving "Max" a workout! It is great that your weather is slowly improving so you guys can work outside again. Below zero at night again here and the high Saturday is supposed to be a whopping -3*!

I really dig that back bumper! I am going to try to build a similar one for my '55.

Keep the updates coming!---DAC

Man I don't know how you guys do it in -? degree weather! I keep sayin once it hits 60 degrees I freeze up, and some guys think I'm kidding, but its true! BRRR!!!! :ahhhh: Then again, when it's 120 outside with 90% humidity I'm still havin fun turning wrenches or messing with the yard. Heat don't really bother me at all, but that cold...yikes!

My bumper is a real cow catcher, isn't it? I wish it had fold down fins though. Getting the bed over those is very tough. I worry how I'll get it put on after it's painted etc. without tearing things up. :headscratch: Other than that I really like it too. It's tough as nails. Never have to worry about it breaking on me!

Well said. I am basically reading this because my gramps had a 65...

Pics or it didn't happen, Tommy! :evil:

FetchMeAPepsi

February 28th, 2014, 03:17 PM

We had a semi-nice day the other day so we sneaked out and fired up ol' max again. I've had a 305E with ps pump and something else on it under a tarp on my trailer for almost a year now. I need the trailer so I needed to get the engine off.

It's over gravel though so I had to hook a come-along on ol' Max to get him to move backwards after hooking the motor on. Even then it dug some nice furrows.

Oh, and if any of you guys get a Max (or an Arnold, hey Foley!:thumbsup: ) make sure you push these little pins on all the way. We lost one moving Max over the trailer because I just pushed them on to the first click.

Afterward we all played with some old steel toys I bought on Ebay. Notice that truck the Powder puff is filling with rocks? Yeah, it's a baby Cecilia! :yeeuh::yeeuh::yeeuh:

WDShaffer

February 28th, 2014, 03:32 PM

By the Time you get to painting, you will have figured out how to make nice bolt on bumper brackets so you can remove that bumper.

FetchMeAPepsi

February 28th, 2014, 04:07 PM

By the Time you get to painting, you will have figured out how to make nice bolt on bumper brackets so you can remove that bumper.

That behemoth is welded on now but maybe I can drill through the welded on spots and the frame and bolt it together, then cut the welds with a grinder. I'm sure it will fall off and crush me just for kicks. You only live once, right!:thumbsup:

FetchMeAPepsi

March 21st, 2014, 05:52 AM

Hey there guys and gals!

Have ya ever had a problem? I mean a real problem? One that wouldn't solve itself? Sure you have! And Ol' Marty McSales is here to help!

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Have ya ever been out with your sweety. Maybe you're on a date, or maybe you just picked her up from a bus stop. Who knows? So ya look over at her sittin there in your brand new GMC truck and you think, Hmm...If the door opens, she's gonna run away!

How are ya gonna fix that? :ahhhh:

Ol' Marty knows how! And I'm gonna show you too!

Don't ask how much, just take a look at what we have here for you today. It's a brand new Sweety Seat Anti-Run Device! Patent Pending :woo:

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You might look at this beeeauuuutiful piece of high-tech equipment and say to yourself, "Marty, how can I afford such a device? It must be thousands of dollars?"
Not to fear, mi amigo! Ol' Marty's your friend! :tiphat: Don't worry about the cost, worry about how much you're going to save by not having to pick up a new sweety at the next bus stop, train station, or truck stop!

I know, I know, you're thinkin even if you get one you still have to worry about installation, right? Nope! Our trained installers will come out and install these kidnap-I mean safety restraining devices right in your driveway!

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So you wanna do it yourself? That's OK too! You can $ave $ave $ave!

You'll need a 5/8" socket, a 11/16" wrench, and our handy dandy safety device.

Step one, push your seat as far forward as you can and move the seatback forward. Then locate the bolt to your existing seatbelt in the middle.

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Step two, grab your 11/16" wrench and crawl under your truck. Find the underneath nut for the bolt you found in the cab. It looks like this.

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Put the wrench on it and push it to the side. Not this side, the other side!

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Go back up top and use your 5/8" socket on the bolt running through your seatbelt. Take it all the way out and let your washers, nut, etc. fall down underneath the truck.

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So you broke your lock washer like this one too? Well that's OK! Your new Sweety Saver comes with a new lockwasher! Didn't I tell ya ol' Marty had your back? :buttkick:

Now take your new device and mate the hole up with your old device like this.

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Then put the bolt back through the holes

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Put the washer, lockwasher, and nut back on, hold it with the wrench propped against the bottom of the cab, and tighten the bolt back down.

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Then repeat the process for the other side of the buckle and that's it! You're all ready to go without worrying about your sweety escaping, er... I mean being prematurely released!

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Stay tuned and see our latest sweety acquisition device, the Sweety Head Petter!

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Also available in Women's models!

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GMCDAC

March 22nd, 2014, 02:05 AM

That behemoth is welded on now but maybe I can drill through the welded on spots and the frame and bolt it together, then cut the welds with a grinder. I'm sure it will fall off and crush me just for kicks. You only live once, right!:thumbsup:

Hey all you gotta do is hook Max to the behemoth and it won't crush you! Then you can spend a fortune and send it to me!-LOL! Would you want some pics of bolt on brackets? The bumper I am going to convert to look more like yours came off a '64 Chevy pickup so frame rail configuration may be the same.

That's a cool and entertaining writeup on the seat belt install. Thanks. I should probably put some in the '55 but haven't gotten to that yet. It actually has some old military surplus aircraft belts in it with a 1959 date printed on them but the floor mounts aren't reinforced well enough to use where they are bolted to the cab floor.

Later---DAC

Vernski

March 22nd, 2014, 10:14 AM

I always get a chuckle reading your posts Pepsi but I really enjoy your munchkin helper she will have those memory's all her life and that's just so cool to think about. My Daughter grew up at a time when it was not possible
to do that because her mom was very negative about my hobby. You are a lucky man Pepsi and I envy that with pride. Also wanted to thank you for the help with my mac and the up side down picture you had the right answer...Vernski:thumbsup:

Culver Adams

March 22nd, 2014, 06:22 PM

Hello Fetch,

When snow fell the day after other-rides-and-projects wood splitter (forgot her given name, though you may have called her what I call all my welding projects, "Daily Grind") got coat number eight of hand rubbed candy apple lacquer and you headed to the wood lot, I figured we wouldn't hear much of Cecilia for a week or two while Fetch and the youngsters gathered Kansas wood for fireside stories. Then, after a couple of months into the winter of winters, rumors began circulating: Fetch was spending every daylight hour trying to keep his pipes from freezing. Whew, it's a relief that you and the Powder Puff found time to dig out from the snowdrifts, create Ol' Marty McSales, and do your piece on, "Sweety Seat Anti-Run Device". I've read it three times and am still laughing out loud. Thank you--for your past writing/illustrating, for this piece, and for the alertness jolt I get anticipating your next creation. (If I didn't say I've learned a ton of truck stuff and been inspired, I should have.)

Regards,
Culver Adams
1961 GMC K1500
Minneapolis, MN

FetchMeAPepsi

March 23rd, 2014, 12:04 AM

Hey all you gotta do is hook Max to the behemoth and it won't crush you! Then you can spend a fortune and send it to me!-LOL! Would you want some pics of bolt on brackets? The bumper I am going to convert to look more like yours came off a '64 Chevy pickup so frame rail configuration may be the same.

That's a cool and entertaining writeup on the seat belt install. Thanks. I should probably put some in the '55 but haven't gotten to that yet. It actually has some old military surplus aircraft belts in it with a 1959 date printed on them but the floor mounts aren't reinforced well enough to use where they are bolted to the cab floor.

Later---DAC

YES!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Pics of the brackets would help a bunch! No rush, I'm not really excited about tearing the bumper off, but if it does give me trouble I might need to.

1959 seatbelts, :jaw-dropping: I bet those are awesome! Neat thing about seatbelts is they last forever. You might be able to put a steel plate on the bottom, kinda like a brace bar to get your seatbelts to stick safely. I've seen steel flat bars that would blend really well if they were shaped on the ends and welded on thickly.

I always get a chuckle reading your posts Pepsi but I really enjoy your munchkin helper she will have those memory's all her life and that's just so cool to think about. My Daughter grew up at a time when it was not possible
to do that because her mom was very negative about my hobby. You are a lucky man Pepsi and I envy that with pride. Also wanted to thank you for the help with my mac and the up side down picture you had the right answer...Vernski:thumbsup:

Yay we got the pics fixed! Sorry about the wife problems. I've been there and it ain't easy. I did it little by little and even now The Blonde gets irritated from time to time. "Honey, that's about enough of the other woman out there" she says lol. I think it's just part of being married. Hills and valleys.

Hello Fetch,

When snow fell the day after other-rides-and-projects wood splitter (forgot her given name, though you may have called her what I call all my welding projects, "Daily Grind") got coat number eight of hand rubbed candy apple lacquer and you headed to the wood lot, I figured we wouldn't hear much of Cecilia for a week or two while Fetch and the youngsters gathered Kansas wood for fireside stories. Then, after a couple of months into the winter of winters, rumors began circulating: Fetch was spending every daylight hour trying to keep his pipes from freezing. Whew, it's a relief that you and the Powder Puff found time to dig out from the snowdrifts, create Ol' Marty McSales, and do your piece on, "Sweety Seat Anti-Run Device". I've read it three times and am still laughing out loud. Thank you--for your past writing/illustrating, for this piece, and for the alertness jolt I get anticipating your next creation. (If I didn't say I've learned a ton of truck stuff and been inspired, I should have.)

Regards,
Culver Adams
1961 GMC K1500
Minneapolis, MN

Thanks Culver I'm happy to entertain a true troubadour! I kinda tried something different with Marty McSales, but it was fun :woo:

We call the woodsplitter the "log dog" now. I can't remember if it's always had that name, but that's the one that stuck. She got used again a couple of weeks ago splitting some cottonwood that the neighbors donated to her feeding dish. Still working great :cutwood: :thumbsup:

Thanks for reading :tiphat:

:takethat::takethat::takethat::takethat:
This is kinda unrelated but I uploaded a video for you guys havin trouble uploading pictures. It might make things easier if you can see it happening instead of just reading someone telling you about it. Heres a link ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? )!

(jeannie if you cant tell im really diggin the new smileys :teehee:)

aphaynes

March 23rd, 2014, 05:16 PM

There are 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame, plus two holding it to the bumper in my case.

Wow, I have done a lot of searching and this is the first spot that has said what holds the bed to the frame. In my case it is not obvious because, as you can see...

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...many moons ago someone covered the wood bed with steel. Problem is that in this pick you can see the passenger side of the bed is sunk down a bit...

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Thought it might be bent or rusted supports where it mounts to the frame. As it turns out, that wood that was covered way back when is now gone in most places. So the bolts that went through the wood to, I assume, the cross sills now have a bit of play in them. :jaw-dropping: I can grab the bed and lift in into place where it is straight and the bolt slack is gone. Guess I am going to have to cut out that steel bed where it was spot welded in so I can find all these bolts. All of the original bed hardware is still under there, though it is all shot. Guess a bed kit is in order. Anyway, all that is to say thank you for your detailed process; which helped me find what most would consider obvious. :postgood: :tiphat:

FetchMeAPepsi

March 24th, 2014, 07:27 PM

Glad I could help! Heres some red dots where your mounts might be if they're like mine. Look underneath the bed and youll see big hairy bolts running thru the frame. I took pics when I took them off the first time but looking back they didnt show too much. SOrry about that. I'll do it again when I take it off this next time.

GMCDAC

March 25th, 2014, 03:33 AM

Hey Fetch, I will get pics of those brackets as soon as I won't get frostbite taking them!

Yes that is what I need to do with the belts in the '55 build a plate or strap to spread the support further around the floor board rather than relying on washers. Since I used different seats I had to build a completely different tilt mechanism for the passenger side seat in my '70 Jimmy. That required some floor reinforcement too.

Seat belts can go bad with time, as the webbing and the stitching can deteriorate through the years. In racing, even at a local level you must replace all your belts every 2 years and some tracks are every year. If they were in a hard wreck re-using them is prohibited too. I've got a pile of out dated racing belts laying around here, no idea why---------.

I haven't had time to update my truck thread but since we talked about it here I will throw in a pic of the belts as I found them in my '55 when I pulled the front seat for the first time. The year is visible on the closest one.

DAC

GMCDAC

March 31st, 2014, 01:21 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

April 5th, 2014, 01:04 AM

Hello again Fetch,
Took a few minutes to get the pics of bumper brackets. They are 1/4" plate. I have to go right away, we are under a blizzard warning for tonight with power outages possible. I better get flashlights ready and ipods charged. Better fuel and pump up the coleman lantern and stove too! I was without power 27 hours in the Oct. 4th and 5th Blizzard.

DAC

Thanks for the pics Dac! That makes it clear as day. I could probably build my own brackets and bolt them up with those measurements. I'm not entirely sure I want to tear it off, but if I do it'll be this summer. I'd really like to get everything mechanical fixed this summer and have nothing left over winter but paint. Lets see how we do, life has a way of getting all sideways :thumbsup:

FetchMeAPepsi

April 5th, 2014, 01:30 AM

I dont remember if I mentioned it but my hub has the squeaky butt going on somewhere. I left the hubs locked all fall and winter (dunno if that matters) but when I noticed the sound I unlocked them. Poof - no more squeak. So I figured it's time for a hub rebuild.

:poke: Time out - Remember we dropped the transfer case a while back? You're probably wondering what happened to that. Nothing! I filled it back with oil and bolted it back in so I could use Cecilia for making a few haul trips. We will get back to the Timkin (Rockwell) T221, I promise!

Like many of my cells, my brain knows nothing about 4 wheel drive. There's not a lot of info out there either for 1960, 1961, or 1962 GMC trucks. In 1963 the hubs changed to a better kind with an addition of self adjusting brakes. I don't know what else is better exactly, just that they are. To tell if you have the older hubs take your wheel off and measure your hub from the brake cover to the end of the hub. If it's about 5 1/2 inches long then you have the old style hubs. If it's exactly 5 inches you have the new style.

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Now for information time. This is everything I found about these Power Train Tools branded hubs:

My hubs are a Selectro clone, called Power Train Tools.
They've been called Sears brand and Dualamatic as well.
They were OEM from many vehicles for years.
They were used on Military vehicles.
They were manufactured by Husky up until they were bought out by MileMarker and then the quality fell off.
If you have a model before about 1973 then they're great and strong enough for rock climbing.
They're hard to turn to "free" when they get bound up with road gunk. I turn mine with a rubber pipe turning thingy like this.
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To unlock or lock you turn the entire outside knob. This is designed to make it easy to use with gloves.
It also keeps them from getting snow and mud inside a selector knob.
All you should have to do with the locking hubs is completely disassemble, clean, re-grease and reassemble unless they're broken.
Parts are a bit tough for the early 60s 4x4s.
Bearings and seals are no problem at all (we'll get to part numbers in a bit)
Locking hubs are still available that will fit if these hubs if they are beyond repair.
The earlier 60s used a different style front brake backing plate until about 63. The first design had brake shoe adjusting cam for each shoe. The later versions have the self adjusting brakes.
Parts are available for both.
Knuckle bearings and seals are also still available, so that's no problem. (I still dont know what a knuckle bearing is :ahhhh:)
The one thing that is tough to find is the shim for the upper steering arm on the drivers side knuckle.
Leave the steering arm attached as studs for it are tough to find.
Just take the lower king pin off and removed the knuckle that way.
Also shim the pre-load for the knuckle during assembly from the bottom king pin only. It works out just fine that way.
You can get a lot of the parts for the earlier brake styles from a Willys Jeep supplier of all places as most of the stuff was the same.
Spindles are getting tough to find
Early style hubs are scarce, but the later ones that are intended for the self adjusting style backing plate are still out there.
So long as your bearing races are loose in the hub or spin, they should be useable.

(special thanks to Jonathan for about half of that list!)

FetchMeAPepsi

April 5th, 2014, 03:46 AM

Now that you know so much you had to tape your head together, lets get to the meat and pa'taters of the deal.

Grab your trusty 4 way and just break the lug nuts loose.

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DO NOT take them off or your truck will stomp your toes.

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Then jack up your axle. This probably isn't the best place to put the jack, but it's where I always do.

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If your arms get tired hire some neighborhood kids to jack it up for you. Kids are lazy these days and need to be reminded what a hard day's work looks like! :whipit:

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Once it's jacked up put it on jack stands for safety. Jacks can and do fail often! They're only a little oil and a valve. Valves break!

Now run your lug nuts all the way off and put them somewhere safe. Slip the wheel off and set it against a fence.

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If you don't have a fence, build one and set it against it. :cutwood:
Fences are known for their almost gravitational tire holding ability. Anything else is just a light.
:bbeer:

Next (on mine) are three screws and three allen wrench bolts. (Allen bolts?)
Take those out. The allen wrench needs to be 1/8".

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Then slip a flathead screwdriver between the plastic and the metal then STOP. Put your hand over the plastic now or you'll be sorry.
Holding it? Good. Now go ahead and give it a gently pry.

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It'll pop right off into your hand. Or your lap. Or the street next door. :poke:

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FetchMeAPepsi

April 5th, 2014, 03:53 AM

Here's what mine looked like on the inside. I don't know what I expected, ground metal maybe?

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Now grab this around-y part and pull on it. It all comes out.

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Then drop it all in the dirt.

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No, don't do that. The grease on here is really water resistant and simple soap and water doesn't work for cleaning it. I knocked the big rocks off and put it in my carb cleaner overnight.

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BarryGMC

April 5th, 2014, 04:09 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

April 5th, 2014, 06:06 PM

Good news that selectro looks good. These are really good hubs actually. Everyone in 67-72 land wants the blue knob spicers but the selectros and warns are better. Squeaks in 4x4 won't be in the hubs. The hubs lock the axle to the wheel hub. Kind of like a switch. On off. The sound usually come from the outer axle inner bearing or the axle joint. So dig deeper and you will find it. Btw I like these old selectros because when it 20 below you can actually engage them with a glove on. Barry

That's what I thought when I saw them. They're still toothy and I think that's about all they need to be good. They do have too much grease on them from what I'm reading though. Some people just put a little 10w90 Penzoil on them and call it good, but I think they get in there 2x a year and re-oil them. I don't really want to have to do that so I'll re-grease them with just a smidge of grease to keep them from rusting I think.

My next step it to clean off the "Steering Knuckle". It sounds like something you'd see on a robot. I don't know what that is so I googled it and got a bunch of pictures that didn't help at all. WHere would this even go?

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On the second page I ran across this and it made more sense.

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Knuckle = bendable part, steering = well you probably know what that is because you can't drive without it. So its the bendable part that connects to the steering. Bendable might not be right, more like "jointed".

Either way mine's coated in 50 years of road grime and rat poop. :poke:
That makes my next step Poop Removal. And a big ol THANK YOU to Vernski for the hand with that. If you remember way back on (insert page number here) he suggested a $30.00 tool for removing dirt and yucky stuff. It hooks to your compressor and kinda works like one of these

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It's called a Scaler. It looks like this:

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You can still get them at harbor freight for about 55.00. They make quick work of any caked on mud or grime. Just make sure to use them without pressing too hard if you're cleaning something delicate. They hammer the crap out of things to clean them.

BarryGMC

April 5th, 2014, 07:17 PM

The wheel spindle bushing and the u joint are what you need to look at.

FetchMeAPepsi

April 18th, 2014, 09:51 PM

The wheel spindle bushing and the u joint are what you need to look at.

Barry I'm gonna start throwing pickle juice in the yard between my house and yours to draw your house a little closer. I tried to make heads or tails out of that drawing but I cant seem to figure out how that cutaway matches up to Cecilia's front paw.

I dont seem to have a snap ring on it to release the hub (I might be wrong!) and I cant see how the case of the wheel where the lug bolts go in comes off. :(

I'll be fiddling with it more today to see what breaks loose :takethat:

FetchMeAPepsi

April 19th, 2014, 02:45 AM

The end of a sore day of honeydo's and stuff. Tomorrow I split more wood and work on building a fish pond. :runforthehills:

But for a few hours today I got some time to play with Cecilia again. I put her hub back together so I could move her around front (and to the air compressor :thumbsup: ). The back of the wheel, no not the wheel. The back of the hub? The thing that ties up to the steering knuckle...It was filthy and I couldn't even make out most of the bolt heads going into it.

So I got out my scaler and BRRRRT!! Off it came. First from the front with the wheel turned.....

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When I had the front side cleaned enough that I could see shiny metal on it again I jacked up the center of the axle, turned the wheels the other way, then let it down again.

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A couple more brrt!'s and I was done.

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FetchMeAPepsi

April 19th, 2014, 02:51 AM

Some of the gunk under there was 1/2 inch thick in places. It was pretty gross. I was left with a nice pile of fire-ready grease-dirt under the truck.

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I swept it exactly 2 feet out of my way. I'll put it in a trash sack tomorrow.

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Then I jacked up the side I was working on and "Standed" it.

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Now to get the hub thingy off again. I figured out you only need to take the screws off to get it off. Not the allen bolts. They just hold the locking mechanism in the cap. Good for safe keeping.

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And PLOP! This was off again. This puts me in the same place I was before, but with a cleaner um...hub back? Hub butt? :lolsmack:

BarryGMC

April 19th, 2014, 03:13 AM

Here are some pics I will explain later . Its hard to do from a phone.

BarryGMC

April 19th, 2014, 03:27 AM

One more

BarryGMC

April 19th, 2014, 04:08 AM

Ok. Top 2 pics show a closed and open knuckle front. The knuckle is the part that moves. Inside your closed knuckle is a u joint just like one in the open front. This joint transfers power out to your hub when in 4 wheel drive. The u joint connects the iner and outer shafts. The outer shaft goes through the spindle. That is the rusty part pictured last. The spindle is bolted to the knuckle and also is how the brake backing plate is attached . Next the cutaway pic shows an early internal spline hub drive flange. If you look where the dust cover snaps in there is a groove. In this groove you have a snap ring that holds the outer part of your hub. You then can remove that hub part. Then you will find a smaller snap ring that holds the inner hub part on the outer axle shaft. Then deep in there you will find a spindle nut a lock ring and another spindle nut. WARNING A SPECIAL SPINDLE NUT SOCKET IS NEEDED. The other diagram shows the bearings and spindle and knuckle. I also put a diagram of a later internal spline hub. While the hub parts look different than yours the two snap ring are the same. Well I need a break. Next we will discuss more about this job. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

April 19th, 2014, 05:56 PM

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(beep beep beep beep!)

This is a Cecilia News Alert - snap ring found and removed! Complete story at 10...

:woo:

Also: Can't find the spindle socket locally so I'll be shopping on the internetz for it tonight.

BarryGMC

April 19th, 2014, 06:52 PM

Here are some more pics. The details will come when I get to an l pad.

BarryGMC

April 19th, 2014, 08:25 PM

Ok. Fetch here is some more. When you get the spindle nuts and brake drum off you will have the wheel Hub. That's what the wheel bolts to. You will pull this off. Please don't let the outer bearing fall in the dirt. Then you will see something like this. The first pic in my previous post. Remove the bolts. It may have studs with nuts. Remove the nuts. Lay the brake backing plate on the spring and remove the spindle. You may have to whack it to get it loose. Use a dead blow hammer or a piece of wood or brass if you use an iron hammer.. Then you will be meet with a mess like this. Don't stress out by what you find. It will be ugly. Next we will walk through the rest. Soccer starts in 6 minutes. Got to go. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

April 20th, 2014, 01:22 AM

Thanks Barry! I think I understand how the spindle nut socket goes on now, but I can't find one locally. They kept telling me that it was 2 3/8" and that wouldn't even go in the hole. I'll be looking online tonight to get one ordered. :thumbsup:

I did find that snap ring (and now I know what a snap ring is :teehee: ).

Looking inside the hub I saw this after I ran a rag around it.

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I did a quick look for "Snap ring pliers" and guess what? I already had a pair! They're my pointy pliers that I used on the transmission bits. :giggity:
Small favors, right? Well they're pretty small so they really didn't open the ring up very much, but I was able to get it off.

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I wouldn't be able to get it back on with this teeny tiny set of pokey pliers though so I hopped on Amazon and ordered this:

TEKTON 3576 Heavy Duty Snap Ring Pliers, 4-Piece ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ). Now I should be all set!

I stuck it in my Pile-O-Parts for safekeeping

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