1962 GMC 305V6 4WD Slow DD Build - Cecilia (Pic Heavy) [Archive] - Page 3

FetchMeAPepsi

April 20th, 2014, 01:38 AM

Next I pulled and pushed on the hub thinking it should move at least a little. My book says "remove the drive gear next" but nothing was budging. So I was like, FINE, let's tap you with a HAMMER a little and see what pops loose!

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And this happened:

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Not exactly what I wanted, but hey it's progress!:diggingahole:
If you didn't know already, this piece is not connected to the hub. It just slides on over it and the bolts that hold the wheel!

So that came off and I'm looking at the brakes. The little rubber bits that hold the juice in looked really good. I'm guessing they've been replaced recently.

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At this point I figured the socket thingy, which is called both a "Spindle Socket" and a "Slide Wrench", is what I needed. I went to O'Reilleys and the guy there really put some time into trying to find me the right one, like 20 mins - really. But he sent me home with that 2 3/8" one I mentioned before. It didn't fit.

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I got it returned and decided I'd look for one online tonight. If anyone knows exactly the right size I'd be happy to borrow that info from ya! :tiphat:

FetchMeAPepsi

April 20th, 2014, 01:55 AM

It was here that things got a little un-focused. :runforthehills:

I couldn't go into the hub anymore. I was stuck. I turned my attention to the dirt clod that should have looked like a front axle. I grabbed my scaler again and BZZZT! Off came the layers

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Then the neighbors came out to do some early Easter stuff so I put it away. Can't get them all ticked off at me.

I moved to an oil change. I had the filter pre-ordered last year and I had 2 5 gallon containers of Rotella. Why not, right? I washed out my oil pan and put it under Cecilia.

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She has a HUGE drain plug. It's 1 1/8 inches! I needed one of the special sockets I bought for rear end castle nuts to get it loose.

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The drain plug was dripping before I even touched it. I got it out. Oil gushed everywhere. Be sure your pan is in the right place and that it holds a LOT. There's a little metal um...scarf? on the oil plug that I guess keeps it from leaking. Mine didn't work, but it looked OK.

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To help it behave like it should I put some of this grey silicon (for high torque areas like rear end gaskets etc) on the metal scarf.

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Then I let it dry a bit so it wouldn't make it stick to the oil pan too. By the time I finished the oil had quit falling out so I stuck a shop towel in it to keep it plugged.

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Then I started taking off the oil filter. It takes a 5/8 inch wrench and the bolt you're turning is spring loaded so as you take it off it'll pull away from the big metal housing, until it POPs the housing back to the nut with a BANG! If you're not ready it'll scare the dickens out of you!

NOTICE: You need to empty your oil-filled pan now because more oil is coming out of the filter and it'll overflow your pan.

By the way, this pic also shows that brain eating Road Draft Tube in the foreground. It's sharp and any time you're under there it'll try to bite you in the face. It also shows my busted exhaust pipe on the right. I just discovered today that it's cracked at the joint too :(

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FetchMeAPepsi

April 20th, 2014, 02:41 AM

I moved the oil pan under the filter and finished taking it off. It fell in with a plop. According to this picture gravity reversed itself at that moment and it fell up instead of down. Thanks Gravity! :thumbsup:

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Lift up the metal housing and the filter itself will fall right out.

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And here's where things get funny again. :takethat: RockAuto sent me this filter for my baby.

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Do you notice anything different?

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:pullinghairout::pullinghairout::pullinghairout:

The new filter is like 3 inches longer than mine. ARRGH! Guess what isn't in stock anywhere around here? That's right! My filter! For reference, the filter that fits is a CarQuest part number 85121. It'll be here Monday. :buttkick:

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FuelOilAir.com says Fram part number CH106PL is also a compatible part if you can't find CarQuest.

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So there's two part numbers that work. Both nowhere in driving distance of me. :( I'm completely stuck until Monday on both projects. Is the world trying to tell me something?

I turned my attention to the oil filter housing. It got a good soap and water cleaning, then a good hand cleaner (fast orange) scrubbing because Dawn didn't cut this oil. Next it got a wire wheeling.

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Then we (The powder puff came home from her track meet here) moved it to the Painting Stump.

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A nice coat of primer

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Then a good glossy coat of heat resistant black paint. Good as new!

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I debated putting Herculiner on it to keep it safe under the truck but it was originally black gloss so I wanted to stay true to the original color and texture. Plus I didnt want to have the herculiner get all over the nut/seal and make it leak.

That's it till Monday when I'll have a filter to put in it. Then I'll get back on the wheel as soon as the socket gets here. :thumbsup:

BarryGMC

April 20th, 2014, 03:04 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

April 20th, 2014, 03:11 AM

Fetch you still did not get the outer snap ring. If you look at the pic with the tape measure and look at the wheel hub. You will see a step in from the widest outside part of the hub. The part the wheel slides on. That flat part just inside is a snap ring. You need to find the spot where it is split and work a screwdriver between it and the hub. Then pop it out. Then the outer locking hub assembly will come out and your spindle nut socket will fit in. I wish I had one to show you. I keep thinking of the line from O Brother where art though. I don't want any bleepedy bleep FOP I am a dapper dan man. I don't want no bleepedy bleep 1/2 ton stuff I am a 3/4 ton man. Barry. Next I will explain my earlier pics.

Dang it! I was so proud of myself for finding the little booger inside :lolsmack2:

So it's in here somewhere?

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BarryGMC

April 20th, 2014, 03:16 AM

Fetch it's killing me I can see the outer ring in at least 5 or 6 pics. In the pic with the socket it's the stepped in part just inside the widest part of your wheel hub. You are holding the socket up to the outer part of the locking hub. It comes out. Barry.

BarryGMC

April 20th, 2014, 03:18 AM

Crap I wish I was better with a computer. That first stepped in part from the widest part. In a little and out a little.

BarryGMC

April 20th, 2014, 03:54 AM

aphaynes

April 21st, 2014, 02:36 PM

Too funny on the oil filter. Same thing happened to me. The one I got was the same oversized Fram filter you showed in your pics.

After some research it turns out there are 1 quart and 2 quart oil filters available. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 
We obviously needed the 1 quart. I could not find the Carquest number of the filter that was in mine, but found it's look alike with the Wix 51123. When it arrived, it was a match...except the oring that came with it did not fit the canister housing mine was in...which was leaking from not having one at all. :jaw-dropping:

Since I already had a roll of gasket material I used to make a gasket for the distributor, which was also missing its gasket, I quickly made one for the oil filter housing. So far, no leaks.

Hantke

April 23rd, 2014, 06:23 AM

Great work! every time i come back and read through every bodies builds it makes me even more bummed out that i don't have one of my own!!! Especially since the guy down the road has a 64/65 K1500 (Yep, 4wd!) that he's been parking in his front yard. I think he is taunting me! Thanks again for the info!

FetchMeAPepsi

April 23rd, 2014, 02:49 PM

Here is a pic of a bolt on flange selectro hub. If you look at the tip of the knife you will see a bolt on flange. On your hub at this point it goes into your wheel hub. It is splined. Right there is the outer snap ring on your hub. Basically at the tip of the knife. Barry

I'll have a minute today to take another look. Hopefully I'll get it right this time :)
When can you make it over here? :poke:

Too funny on the oil filter. Same thing happened to me. The one I got was the same oversized Fram filter you showed in your pics.

After some research it turns out there are 1 quart and 2 quart oil filters available. To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 
We obviously needed the 1 quart. I could not find the Carquest number of the filter that was in mine, but found it's look alike with the Wix 51123. When it arrived, it was a match...except the oring that came with it did not fit the canister housing mine was in...which was leaking from not having one at all. :jaw-dropping:

Since I already had a roll of gasket material I used to make a gasket for the distributor, which was also missing its gasket, I quickly made one for the oil filter housing. So far, no leaks.

Thanks Aphaynes! That's good info. I passed all the parts numbers on to Rock Auto to help them update their choices.

Great work! every time i come back and read through every bodies builds it makes me even more bummed out that i don't have one of my own!!! Especially since the guy down the road has a 64/65 K1500 (Yep, 4wd!) that he's been parking in his front yard. I think he is taunting me! Thanks again for the info!

 To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 18781m9v.jpg 4WD is an amazing bonus. I got it because I could drive offroad if necessary (or for a little fun with the kiddos) but I found that sometimes the back tires just don't pull. They spin.
No problem, just shift into 4wd and RAAWRRRR! The torque is scary!
Cecilia will change the earth's rotation if I don't get off the gas pretty quick!
:ahhhh:

Have you talked to the guy to see if he'll sell?

Hantke

April 23rd, 2014, 03:03 PM

I'll have a minute today to take another look. Hopefully I'll get it right this time :)
When can you make it over here? :poke:

Thanks Aphaynes! That's good info. I passed all the parts numbers on to Rock Auto to help them update their choices.

 To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? 18781m9v.jpg 4WD is an amazing bonus. I got it because I could drive offroad if necessary (or for a little fun with the kiddos) but I found that sometimes the back tires just don't pull. They spin.
No problem, just shift into 4wd and RAAWRRRR! The torque is scary!
Cecilia will change the earth's rotation if I don't get off the gas pretty quick!
:ahhhh:

Have you talked to the guy to see if he'll sell?

He might sell, but since school picked up again i'm nice and broke, but as soon as i have some cash put together i'll give it a go. I think it has original 305 V6 in it to! never got close enough to verify because i'm not that big of a snoop.

FetchMeAPepsi

April 23rd, 2014, 08:49 PM

He might sell, but since school picked up again i'm nice and broke, but as soon as i have some cash put together i'll give it a go. I think it has original 305 V6 in it to! never got close enough to verify because i'm not that big of a snoop.

Curse you, school! That and work can really rain on a hobby :takethat:
Good luck with the hunt and hang in there!

Barry, I peeked at it again today and there's no ring where the knifepoint was. There's a rubber o ring toward the front, but nothing back there.

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There's a knobby thing on the back of it though, but when I cleaned it off it looks like just a knob. Not a bolt or anything

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I also found a great looking breakdown but it just says to use the bolts that come on the truck :saywhat:

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BarryGMC

April 23rd, 2014, 11:27 PM

Take your finger and go towards the part where the hub cover goes. The first step in between the long cylindrical part and the part the hub cover turns on right between the 2 is the snap ring.

BarryGMC

April 24th, 2014, 12:05 AM

I wiil be brief. Its hard to type on the phone. This is. Little different than yours but the snap ring is in the same spit

FetchMeAPepsi

April 24th, 2014, 12:53 AM

I wiil be brief. Its hard to type on the phone. This is. Little different than yours but the snap ring is in the same spit

NOW I think I got it! its not the same kind of snap ring, it's a spring looking thing on the outside of the axle gear that the first ring was on. And it's inside the hub.

If I were any dumber I'd be buying magic beans. Thanks Barry!

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Foley

April 24th, 2014, 04:46 AM

I got it returned and decided I'd look for one online tonight. If anyone knows exactly the right size I'd be happy to borrow that info from ya! :tiphat:[/QUOTE]

I dug around in the bottom of my rollaway and came up with a spindle socket that used on (I Think) the Selectro hubs of my old flat fender jeeps back in the 70's. It is six sided, ID of 2 and 3/16s, OD of 2 and 1/2, and it is 2 and 3/4 " long cause it has to go inside the hub a bit. I'll try to do that picture thing Fetch so you can see it. It's been a long time, but I'm pretty sure I bought it specifically just to work on front hubs. Problem is I can't remember if it was the Warn hubs or the Selectro hubs. Foley

Foley

April 24th, 2014, 05:26 AM

Sorry bout the fuzziness and the John Deere racing stripe. I think that came in the 90's when I quit playing with old jeeps and went into antique tractors. If this will work for you Mr. Fetch, PM me a mailing address and it'll be on its way tomorrow. Foley

Rockdriller

April 24th, 2014, 05:15 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

April 25th, 2014, 07:04 PM

I got it returned and decided I'd look for one online tonight. If anyone knows exactly the right size I'd be happy to borrow that info from ya! :tiphat:

I dug around in the bottom of my rollaway and came up with a spindle socket that used on (I Think) the Selectro hubs of my old flat fender jeeps back in the 70's. It is six sided, ID of 2 and 3/16s, OD of 2 and 1/2, and it is 2 and 3/4 " long cause it has to go inside the hub a bit. I'll try to do that picture thing Fetch so you can see it. It's been a long time, but I'm pretty sure I bought it specifically just to work on front hubs. Problem is I can't remember if it was the Warn hubs or the Selectro hubs. Foley

Thanks Foley! Let me see what the measurements are like when I get into this kryptonite castle of a hub and I'll get back with ya. :cheers:

Dude....I love it when you chronicle your mechanical woes for all to behold.

What do you mean? I've got mad mekannik skillz! :lolsmack2:
Really I hope anyone else having the same trouble won't have to make the same mistakes if they see mine. Kinda like a "what not to do". Some of this stuff is definitely not...I cant think of the word, but it doesn't readily come to mind what you should do to get the things apart, even when looking at a diagram. Like, why not just put some bolts into it to hold it so you can take it apart easy? Well, I'm learnin. I'll get there!

First problem....your hands are uncharacteristically clean....for the project yer working on...
The pic that I copied shows the snap-ring to be removed pretty clearly. Just inside of the end of your hub is a "inside" style snap-ring. Find the break in that surface and use a O-ring pick (nose-picker) to pry that thing loose.....pop it out of there..make sure the snap-ring is off of the end of the axle (outside snap-ring)...and the whole hub assembly will be free to slide out. It may hang up a little while sliding by where the snap ring used to be but it will come out with some patience....and maybe some PB blaster to soften things up a bit.

Oops on the second picture .....Interesting.... but not instrumental for successful hub removal.

You busted me. I make the Powder puff do all the work then I sidewalk supervise and take the pictures :cheers: I'll try again tonight if I can get free. I happen to have a booger picker too that the PO of my house left here in the yard. :woo:

And...is that a kid coloring a DOG in that last pic?!? :rofl:

Rockdriller

April 26th, 2014, 05:26 AM

I don't know the whole story on that......but I think the dog's name is "Grease Board".

JPBrecheisen

April 28th, 2014, 03:02 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

May 4th, 2014, 02:12 PM

Fetch,

You need to get the 2 snap rings off before you need the socket for the spindle nuts.

Take a look at the yellow arrows on your pics. They are pointing to where the snap wrings are.

The larger diameter one is the outer one and can be removed with a flat blade screw driver.

The inner one (around the axle shaft stub) will need a set of snap wring pliers.

I hope this helps some.

Jonathon

Thanks Jonathon! That did the trick. It was covered in rust and almost invisible. (yes, I feel pretty dumb right now) I got it off with a screwdriver but my hub is still stuck on. I tapped it with a hammer and it still didn't budge. Spanner wrench time?

BarryGMC

May 4th, 2014, 08:22 PM

The outside of the hub has splines. I am sure it's got some rust and old dry grease making it not want to slide out. I would spray your favorite penetrating oil in behind where the snap ring was and carefully try to pry it out. BTW I figured out how to add stuff to pics on the forum. I can take a screen shot of the pic and use note ology to draw on the pic and post the modified pic. Way cool. Next I just need to learn how to type with more than one finger. I just saw your PM. There are a couple of different transmissions used. It would be easier to use the whole trans assembly. Barry.

JPBrecheisen

May 5th, 2014, 07:01 AM

Thanks Jonathon! That did the trick. It was covered in rust and almost invisible. (yes, I feel pretty dumb right now) I got it off with a screwdriver but my hub is still stuck on. I tapped it with a hammer and it still didn't budge. Spanner wrench time?

Fetch,

Post a picture of the hub in its current state so I can know how to guide you best in the next step.

Jonathon

FetchMeAPepsi

May 5th, 2014, 07:57 PM

It still looks like this but with the little snap ring removed. Nothing came apart after the snap ring came out, just a little dust. Should it have pulled off?

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BarryGMC

May 5th, 2014, 09:49 PM

JPBrecheisen

May 7th, 2014, 06:34 AM

Fetch,

Thanks for the pic posting, but what we need to see is inside the hub. What is holding it on is inside the "cavity" of the wheel hub.

BarryGMC is right on the money. You'll need to get the "locking hub mechanism" out of the wheel hub before you'll have access to the spindle nuts.

Take a second look at the pictures I put the arrow on. I'm not familiar with the style locking hubs you have, but you might possibly need to also remove the snap ring that's on the axle shaft itself.

Take a look inside the hub cavity and see if you can spot another snap ring. It will be about the diameter of 50 cent piece. Wipe the grease out of it and see if you can't see one near the center where the axle shaft is sticking through.

Jonathon

JPBrecheisen

May 7th, 2014, 06:39 AM

Take a look at this pic. This groove where the screwdriver is pointing is where you need to look at the center of the hub to make sure the snap ring is removed.

Normally you need to remove both of them to get the locking hubs all the way out. You've got the large one, now we need to make sure you got the small one.

Take a peek inside the hub and see if you can see it. I drew some things on one of your pictures again. The circle identifies the outer axle shaft. The arrow is pointing to where the snap ring will be.

Jonathon

FetchMeAPepsi

May 7th, 2014, 06:03 PM

If you look at jonothans pic with the little arrow and you are holding the spindle nut socket. That part you are touching needs to slide out of the tube. Its held in by the outer ring you removed. Then the socket will fit inside.

I can't seem to pry it apart. I will soak it in PB Blaster today and give it another shot :thumbsup:

Take a look at this pic. This groove where the screwdriver is pointing is where you need to look at the center of the hub to make sure the snap ring is removed.

Normally you need to remove both of them to get the locking hubs all the way out. You've got the large one, now we need to make sure you got the small one.

Take a peek inside the hub and see if you can see it. I drew some things on one of your pictures again. The circle identifies the outer axle shaft. The arrow is pointing to where the snap ring will be.

Jonathon

Thanks Jonathon. That was the first snap ring that I got off with my unknown-till-then snap-ring pliers. Total rings so far are two. Is there another one in there? :headscratch:

FetchMeAPepsi

May 7th, 2014, 07:52 PM

Here's a cleaner round of pics. I don't see any other snap rings running around in there but I didn't see the one on the outside either so...:pullinghairout:

I tried prying on it more at two places (shown in last two pics) but still not even a wiggle.

BarryGMC

May 7th, 2014, 09:26 PM

The last pic with the hammer and pry bar are on the right track. Hold tight a little and I will post a pick that may help

BarryGMC

May 7th, 2014, 09:58 PM

OK . The pic I described in my last post. thats the part that comes out. That outet groove Is where the screws on the big knob ride in. Put a 2.5 inch clamp in that groove and tighten it up then pry between the clamp and the hub just outside of where the large snap ring was. If you get it a little tap it in. Once you do thst a few it should just slide out. Disregard the flange in the pic this hub bolts on yours is splined. I am only using thsr hub because its a selectro ant the part protruding from your wheel hub is the same.

BarryGMC

May 7th, 2014, 10:45 PM

Here is what it looks like in an internal spline hub. You can see the spindle nut and the splines. Just for fun here is a pic of a bolt on hub. So you know what I mean when I say bolt on hub. :pullinghairout::bbeer:

FetchMeAPepsi

May 9th, 2014, 08:41 PM

Guess what guys? IT'S OUT! :bigdance::bigdance::bigdance:

That last pic with the clamp on the end showed me what I should shoot for, kinda. I thought the lip was going to pull away like the other gear thing that came out. That's not exactly what happened lol.

{{{{Begin dream sequence Dooodlie doo! Doodlie doo! Doodlie doo!}}}}}

It all started when the baby blonde went to sleep today. I ran and got my grubbies on (junky clothes) then went and did a couple of honey-dos to make sure the General was content. Can't have her coming down on me when I'm elbow deep in Cecilia, right? Then I sauntered over, looked Cecilia in the eye, and sang, "Cecilia! You're breaking my heart! Let go of that dang hub right-now baaaabeyyyyyy!"

Then I put my crowbar and hammer to work again. And I turned it, and did it some more. All the while I was terrified I'd break the lip off the gear-thing I was banging on. Then it happened. After about 15 solid "Please don't break, sweetie" whacks......

It moved! :ahhhh:

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It came all the way out to the edge, but then it wouldn't budge. I whacked more, I whacked harder. I got jiggy with it and shouted funny words laced with venom. Every time it would come to the end of the outer shell (flange?) it would pop right back to flush. Like it had a rubber band on one side of it.

I worked on it about 20 minutes more then took a break and consulted my book. Nothing in there that said this should be more difficult than it was (it was kinda worthless at this point anyway). I did more eye inspection, nothing I could see. So I banged it back inside in frustration. It moved again.

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So I crowbar-hammered it back out again, rotating it and whacking, rotating and whacking. And this little rubber hair appeared over the edge of where it was sliding. Some kind of seal? If so, it was destroyed now. It's not the O ring on the outside beside where I was prying. It came from the rusty spot where the last metal snap ring came off.

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So I whacked it some more and it gave a big PPPpbbbtttt! noise and poped right out!

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I pulled the entire thing out and rewarded myself with a refreshment and toasted you guys that helped me get this far :beer:

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 9th, 2014, 08:48 PM

Now for that spanner wrench thingy. Totally unnecessary! Thanks to Ed Snyder if I remember right I got the idea to use a punch of sorts. Here's what it looked like after pulling out that last huge gear.

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See those red dots? They're around little square looking cutouts in the funny looking nut on the axle. I put my needle nosed pliers in that top cutout and whacked it lightly with a hammer. It spun free. :giggity: Thanks Ed!

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I pulled it out and put it aside with the other parts, in order so i don't lose what goes where.

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Now I can reach in and grab the center pole, the axle? And it wiggles pretty good up and down and in and out. Maybe that's what it's supposed to do? I dont know.

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Next there's a little washer thing with holes in it. I stuck a booger picker looking hook in there and just dragged it out. It isn't locked on or anything.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 9th, 2014, 08:51 PM

Behind that is ANOTHER nut. I just stuck my booger picker through the holes on it and spun it around about 1500 times.

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Inside here it smelled like burned oil and dead cats. I saw some hard, chunky stuff on the bottom of the cylinder. It disintegrated when I tried to mash it.

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Then I grabbed the whole kit and caboodle and Fwoop! It came right off!

:thumbsup:

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 9th, 2014, 09:00 PM

Deep inside the flange (thats what I'm calling it, it might not be right) is a bearing. Here's my booger picker pulling it out.

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It was made by Timkin and even had a part number. LM5....something something something. I'll have to look at it again after it's cleaned.

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I could see another bearing inside the flange but it wouldn't fit out the front. So I flipped it over to the back. From my transmission rebuild I knew what I had here. A gasket!

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And I know how to deal with gaskets...Squeeeze.....

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POP! :woo:

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Then I noticed the seal didn't have any rubber in it. It was just a metal seal. Is it supposed to be like that? Hopefully I didn't just ruin it :ahh:

I pulled out the bearing, another Timkin with another part number

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Then I was out of time so I threaded everything, in order, onto a piece of coathanger and stuck it in a nice jaccuzzi (bucket) of Carb Cleaner to get some cleaning done. Might be time for a new batch though, because it's black as sin now and doesn't smell much like carb cleaner anymore :rofl:

Thank you Barry, Johathon, Foley, Ed Snyder, and everyone else I missed for all the help, offers, and tips. You guys all rock! :signthankspin::getrdone2::yeahthat::rowdybeer:

GMCDAC

May 10th, 2014, 01:38 AM

BarryGMC

May 10th, 2014, 06:19 AM

Good job. First its not a gasket its a seal. Next you need to remove the spindle from the knuckle. That's held on by the 6 bolts. Then we can walk you through the next step. Before you do the rest get a proper parts washer. It only needs to be an old canning kettle or metal wash pail and a parts cleaner brush and a gallon of diesel.

FetchMeAPepsi

May 12th, 2014, 02:40 AM

Glad to see your victory over this stubborn hub! That chunk of rubber you pulled out earlier may have been the seal that was gone out of that seal you pulled in the "Pop" pic. I'm sure a rubber lip should have been in there. Numbers might be stamped in that metal ring too.

Thanks for the updates.

DAC

Thanks for reading Dac. I think you're right. I'll order a replacement ring this week and we'll see what a new one looks like :thumbsup:

Good job. First its not a gasket its a seal. Next you need to remove the spindle from the knuckle. That's held on by the 6 bolts. Then we can walk you through the next step. Before you do the rest get a proper parts washer. It only needs to be an old canning kettle or metal wash pail and a parts cleaner brush and a gallon of diesel.

So there's no rubber ring that goes into it? I might need to bend it back into round. I buggered it up a little on the edges :poke:

I got me a big purple tub to put my stuff in. I'm going to buy 5 gallons of diesel this week and try my hand at not setting myself on fire. The kiddos will be home full time in a couple of weeks too so I'll have more time to PLAY WITH CECILIA! This will be great because the Powder Puff has been itchin to help but she just doesn't have the time anymore.

:woo:

I sure love this truck, and all the great things that come with it :)

FetchMeAPepsi

May 12th, 2014, 02:59 AM

So Barry, did you mean THESE 9/16 sized six bolts? Yes Sir!

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With those six bolts out the brake assembly just fell away!

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I set it on top of the axle. Then I was left with this elephant looking thing

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Here's a closer view. Nothing seemed worn or scratched up.

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Next I took the four bolts out on top. Also 9/16 sized.

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This thing pulled straight out. It doesn't seem to have a purpose :D
But there were THREE metal gaskets under it. Weird

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Then I took the four bolts out of the bottom one. It had no metal gaskets on it at all.

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Also interesting, two of the bottom one's bolts were longer than the top ones. Here they are side by side.

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The long bolts went on the rear outside corner and the front inside corner. Here's my finger showing you where they go.

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Then the bottom "purposeless thing" came loose with a little wiggling.

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Then I moved to the back of the knuckle (big round thing holding the elephant trunk). I took about half the bolts out of it. They're 1/2 inch bolts, not 9/16 like the front.

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I had the wheel turned when I took it loose so I had to use a wrench for some of them :)

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As I took the last bolt out this thin metal piece fell off and smacked the ground. Beware of falling brackets!

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 12th, 2014, 03:18 AM

In the front of the wheel - I mean the knuckle, it hooks to the steering bar thing. It has a cotter pin in it. Mine broke when I tried to take it out. Too much rusting I guess.

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The nut is 3/4 inch. I spun it down almost off, but left it on for whacking.

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Now I whacked it with a hammer to pop it loose. Leaving the nut on it keeps the hammer from messing up the threads.

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After that I took it off the rest of the way.

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The steering bar just lifts up out of the way.

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Then I grabbed the little ear that the steering bar hooked to and wiggled it back and forth. this broke the outside of the knuckle loose so I could pull it off of the elephant trunk thing.

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Sitting in the bottom of this was a little cup bearing.

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 12th, 2014, 03:30 AM

This freed up the elephant trunk entirely so I pulled it out. It kept going, and going...

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And going! This thing must have been hooked up to Arkansas somewhere!

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It didn't seem to have any abrasions or anything weird with it either, besides a boatload of grease! I put it in my inherited purple wash bucket. It just barely fit. I'll get a better look at it after I clean all the grease off.

That left me with this paper gasket and a couple of metal brackets on the back of the knuckle.

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The back of the paper gasket had the other half of that metal bracket on it, but stuck to it real good. The one that fell must have been knocked loose by the impact wrench.

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Then I carefully worked the paper gasket off the knuckle. It didn't want to fit without tearing. I'll have to be careful with the replacement. It's a tight fit.

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Then I spotted this little cup bearing in the top hole (right under where it's shown in the pic). It goes under the "purposeless thing".

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 12th, 2014, 03:40 AM

Finally there's a thicker metal piece that goes around the axle. It has a split in it so you can bend one side up, one side down, just enough to slip it around the axle.

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Then I flipped the brake assembly over and inside it there was a brass sleeve.

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And this is what it looks like now. Piece of cake! Well, really it looks like this with a trash bag over it because we're having tornadoes over for dinner tonight according to the weather man. Can't have Cecilia getting water-on-the-knee at her tender young age of 52

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I am disappointed that aside from a few rubber bits I haven't really found anything that might make a good squeaky noise. But I'm going to replace all the bearings and seals anyway.

The other side should be a snap after this! :thumbsup:

BarryGMC

May 12th, 2014, 04:15 AM

GMCDAC

May 13th, 2014, 02:39 AM

Thanks for reading Dac. I think you're right. I'll order a replacement ring this week and we'll see what a new one looks like :thumbsup:

So there's no rubber ring that goes into it? I might need to bend it back into round. I buggered it up a little on the edges :poke:

Hey Fetch, I dig your detailed progress pics if I haven't said that a bunch of times already!

Yeah there should be a rubber lip in that "ring". It is the wheel bearing grease seal. The rubber has gotten pulled out of it somehow and I still suspect that the piece of rubber you pulled out may be part of it.

Looking forward to updates.

DAC

FetchMeAPepsi

May 18th, 2014, 03:15 AM

Cool. When you start cleaning pop the spindle off the backing plate and clean it. When I get to an I pad I will give you my thoughts. AND give you the proper terms. Elephant thing. I almost choked on my dessert . Barry

:lolsmack: I had to call it something and it just flopped around like an elephant trunk so...I dubbed it the elephant thing! I got the bearings cleaned up to take to a bunch of parts stores today. The rest will probably be tomorrow.

Hey Fetch, I dig your detailed progress pics if I haven't said that a bunch of times already!

Yeah there should be a rubber lip in that "ring". It is the wheel bearing grease seal. The rubber has gotten pulled out of it somehow and I still suspect that the piece of rubber you pulled out may be part of it.

Looking forward to updates.

DAC

I think you're right Dac! It was kinda brittly-rubbery so the shoe fits.

I spent today doing other-car work and looking for Cecilia's parts. Good news is my other cars are loaded for bear. First pic shows The Boy, my tireless helper of the day, after his first oil change in the storm shelter/Oil pit. The Powder Puff stayed inside and painted walls with The Blonde.

Anyway...The bad news is NOBODY carries the bushing or the two little O rings I need. Nobody! I tried:

NAPA
Carquest
Oreilleys
Autozone

The guy at Oreilleys tried for almost an hour to find a part that would fit and still came up empty. He suggested trying online. Bummer.

Here's some part numbers for the more common things. The bearings are very easy to find because they used them for everything back in the 60's.

Grease Seal - National Brand - part number 442380
Inner Bearing by Grease Seal- Timkin Brand - part number LM 603049
Outer Bearing - Timkin Brand - part number LM 501349
Knuckle Bearings - Timkin Brand - part number 11520 (sleeve insert) and 11590 (bearing itself)
Brass Spindle\Axle Bushing - GM Part No. 2402596

Those tiny bearings in the top and bottom are called Knuckle Bearings. I don't have a part number on them yet, but when I do I'll post it.

I'll spend a large portion of the night tonight trying to find the bushing and O rings. Hopefully I can find them and get them installed soon because there's a MINI MEET coming up and the Powder Puff and I really plan to get down there for some burgers and hot dogs (and free advise!).

:woo:

Oh, and the second pic is of the bearings, nuts, and grease seal in the order they all came out for reference.

BarryGMC

May 18th, 2014, 04:21 AM

You can get any o ring at a hydraulic supply outfit and those bushing at a bearing supply. Store.

BarryGMC

May 18th, 2014, 05:05 AM

JPBrecheisen

May 20th, 2014, 06:02 AM

The knuckle bearings are 11520 and 11590. Any normal auto parts store will be able to order them.

What parts specifically are you looking for?

Can you post a pic or two of the parts you are lacking?

The bronze bushings that go inside the back of the spindle are still out there, you just have too look.

Try searching GM Part No. 2402596 if its a bushing you're needing. That will get you what you're needing.

What O-rings are you looking for specifically?

Jonathon

MrCos

May 20th, 2014, 11:53 AM

Fetch, this has been a joy to read! Keep up the awesome work! Kudos to barry and the others here with the support! Best of luck on Cecilia!
Cos

FetchMeAPepsi

May 20th, 2014, 05:50 PM

BDI bearing is where I find most of my bearings and seals. Same with o rings. However I get the better viton o rings at a hydraulic supply and rebuilder shop. Here it is american hydraulic and chrome. The auto supply shops are more expensive and often staffed by dingbats. Also check the corn binder site for the bushing part # and knuckle bearing part #. They use the same dana front end except for wheel bolt pattern . I guess I am spoiled. I. Have 3 bearing supply shops within a half mile of each other. Two are on the same block. And one guy has most of the dana 4x4 stuff put to memory.

You are lucky! I'll try a few more places online so I can point to it and say "here is the part" for others, but if nothing pans out I'll get to schmoozing my local bearings stores. I would never have thought such a place existed. Who woulda thunk there was such a need for bearings that they make whole places dedicated to it? :jaw-dropping:

What O-rings are you looking for specifically?

Jonathon

I attached a pic of the O rings..well, where they go. They're two very tiny o-rings on the outside of the hub where the handle screws back on. I've got two rings on order from a place right now but they might be too thick. If you have a source or part number for them that'd be great!
Thanks for the other P/Ns too! :beer:

Fetch, this has been a joy to read! Keep up the awesome work! Kudos to barry and the others here with the support! Best of luck on Cecilia!
Cos

Thanks Cos! Welcome to the board! (saw it was your first post) :D

FetchMeAPepsi

May 20th, 2014, 07:36 PM

The helpers and I got 'earl back in Cecilia this Saturday after playing in the storm shelter/oil pit. First we worked on The Blonde's car (work first), then we got to Cecilia (play last). That orange canister in the corner is my new parts cleaner (2 gal. diesel). :thumbsup:

The boy got oil all over himself taking the drain plug out of the car and said, "Look Mommy, I'm a MAN!" :rofl:

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The hub is stalled for parts so remember waaay back here ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) where I drained the oil? Well she's still sittin thirsty so we decided to oil her back up now that the carquest filter came in.

So we grabbed the now-painted filter housing and put the filter in, and the little paper gaskety thing on the outside rim. It'll get pressed into the receiving end when it's tightened up so it's OK that it's floppy here in the pic.

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I took that under the truck and stuck it in this hole. Be sure to get it just snug then move it around until you're sure its in the little lip or it'll overhang and oil will SPURT out from your truck....

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Like it did on mine...

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There's two quarts of my life I'll never get back! :buttkick:

Moving on, I grabbed the plug that included the grey RTV I had put around it earlier.

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Mashed it in the hole

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And tightened it up with a 1 1/8" socket.

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Some excess grey RTV popped out so I just tore it off with my fingers. It didn't leak a drop later so this is A-OK.

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Next I went and gathered all my parts for giving Cecilia her drink.

Some Rotella I had lying around

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I had to hunt for my funnel. It was in the kids' sandbox. :ahhhh:
I scrubbed it off really good.

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And last but not least, an extra pair of hands :woo:

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FetchMeAPepsi

May 20th, 2014, 07:59 PM

***pause***

I forgot to mention that when I change my oil I take some of the old oil and refill the oil-bath breather over the carburetor. If you're following along, don't forget that step!

***play***

With all the parts in place we took off the breather cap

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Stuck the funnel in the hole...

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and then Powder Puff poured oil all down my arm. :teehee:

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Because it takes 6 quarts and one jug is only 4, we emptied the first jug into Cecilia then filled it up to the 2 quart mark from the other jug.

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You can see how full it is from this handy window.

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We poured that in, then wiped Cecilia's chin. ****BURP!!***

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Powder puff put the cap back on while I jumped in to start her up and circulate that new oil.

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I had forgotten that I had the hub apart. Guess what I always do when I jump in any vehicle? :jaw-dropping:

Pump the brakes.

Without any drum on them at the moment.

Brake fluid squirted everywhere.

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I had a heck of a time getting the spring off the brake shoes off but by prying the spring off I was able to fix it. I reached in and poked the rubber innards back inside the brake cylinder. Then I slipped the piston back in, finally I put the rubber boot back on. Hopefully it'll still work. We'll find out when the hub is fixed.

No pics of all that because I was scrambling like an idiot to get it back together. :( Sorry guys.

I did finally get in and start her up. Purring like a tiger! (pic taken with key in ACC position, so oil light is on - dont freak out!)

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With that done I can focus entirely on the hub parts issues. :thumbsup:

FetchMeAPepsi

May 21st, 2014, 08:47 PM

Just a quick update!

The largest O ring is amazon ASIN number B0051Y2C8I
You can get it here:

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Attached is a pic of the bag (of TEN!) showing mfg part numbers etc.

144 Viton O-Ring, 90A Durometer, Round,
Black, 2-1/2" ID, 2-11/16" OD, 3/32" Width (Pack of 10)

The smaller one I'm still working on...

JPBrecheisen

May 22nd, 2014, 04:24 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

May 24th, 2014, 02:10 AM

Fetch,

What kind of locking hubs do you have?

There should be brand name and model number on them somewhere.

There is a lot of NOS (New Old Stock) items available out there. I'd be almost willing to bet you could find a rebuild kit for those (should include O-rings) somewhere.

I have WARN M-8 style hubs. I was able to find what I needed from left over rebuild kits that were out there.

Your hubs look different, but I think they may still make that kind if its the type I think it is.

That would be my advice. Send me the info, I'll poke around a little for you also.

Jonathon

Thanks! My hubs are Power Train Tools. They're rebranded Selectros.

I found that last ring too. :woo:This is the smaller one that goes on the OUTER side of the hub. It's this one:

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Part number 033-7290

Description:
033 Viton O-Ring, 90A Durometer, Round, Black, 2" ID, 2-1/8" OD,
1/16" Width (Pack of 10)

I also found a similar looking brass bushing from off of a 60's Willys Jeep but it was about 1/8" too small in diameter. If someone has a Willys I have a free bushing :)

I'm still looking for a reliable replacement for those. :confused:

BarryGMC

May 24th, 2014, 11:22 PM

JPBrecheisen

May 26th, 2014, 06:20 AM

The bushing for a Willys Jeep will be too small.

Those are model 25/27 and the spindle bushings are too small.

Look for GM part No. 2402596.

You may have to look out for some NOS items. Ebay is a good place to start.

Jonathon

FetchMeAPepsi

June 2nd, 2014, 03:38 AM

I don't have a closed knuckle 44 apart. Just measure the ID and Od of the bushing. I bet I could buy 10 on Tuesday.. Is the inner 1/8 to small on the jeep part. If so I will measure up some jeep stuff. And give you the bushing specs you need. Same if it's the Od. Barry

Barry, the bushing I got was from a Dana 25 for a Jeep. It was too small OD and ID. :(

The bushing for a Willys Jeep will be too small.

Those are model 25/27 and the spindle bushings are too small.

Look for GM part No. 2402596.

You may have to look out for some NOS items. Ebay is a good place to start.

Jonathon

Yup :ohgeesh:

It was worth a shot. Sure looked identical in the pics :)

So where have I been the last couple of weeks, you might ask?
H-O-N-E-Y D-O's! :takethat::cutwood::pullinghairout::banghead: :insane: :scared:

The Blonde is normally very understanding about my lil' project but a couple of weeks ago she put her foot down and had me build a koi pond (read Goldfish pond) complete with a fountain and rocks. Talk about a back breaker! And I had more fence repair to do. This whole time Cecilia's been sittin out in the front yard with one leg in the air, like a wounded puppy patiently waiting for me to get my act together and come back to her.

I still haven't gotten there yet. I did get this stuff in for the axles.

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If you forgot, it's this new grease that has a super low washout factor so it wont degrade or wash away when I drive through water, even submerged like when I drive the boat I don't own off the boat ramp with her. I'm excited about using it.

I did get ahold of a micro thingy and measured my bushing. Here's the specs.

1 1/2 inch Outside Diameter (OD)
1 3/8 inch Inside Diameter (ID)
1 7/8 inch Outside Diameter if you include the lip (OD W/ Lip?)
1 inch tall

Pics:

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I really need to get free this week and get her handled and mobile again. I've got a hankering for some cruisin!

Next steps:
Clean parts with Diesel
Order grease seal
Order knuckle seal
Order bearings if I need them. They're Timkins so apparently they're adjustable as they wear down.

Should I slather the entire spindle/axle bit (elephant thingy) with grease when I put it back in or is a nice coating good enough?

Hantke

June 2nd, 2014, 11:41 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

June 4th, 2014, 07:09 AM

I'm not the expert on these, but if i remember correctly on the last axles I re-built, the terminology was to "coat generously with appropriate grease"
Definitely my favorite scientifically based instructions

:lolsmack2:

That's a good one!

It's after midnight here and I just placed an order with Roy at Quad4x4.com for every stinkin part I needed. It was higher than I thought it'd be, but all the parts are guaranteed fit. Guess I had to wait till after midnight to be able to part with that much dough. It still hurt!

Here's the part numbers and prices

Qty Description Each Total Amount
(2) QU40188 8 BOLT KNUCKLE SEAL KIT $67.80 $135.60
(2) QU40055 INNER AXLE SEAL $10.40 $20.80
(2) QU40025 AXLE SHAFT BUSHING $13.68 $27.36
(2) QU50654 4X4 FRONT WHEEL SEAL $13.06 $26.12

They'll be here in a couple of days.

:woo:

FetchMeAPepsi

June 4th, 2014, 11:27 PM

Let's clean some parts, boys!

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Parts you will need:

1 gallon of Diesel Gasoline (is that redundant?)
One large nylon or metal bristle brush
One small nylon or metal bristle brush
One screwdriver or metal booger picker to scratch away the tougher stuff
One bucket. I robbed one from the kid's toy storage area.
Some grease. I used Archoil AR8200 because of it's low washout rate like I mentioned before.
About 1 1/2 hours of time.

Optional:
Non-Latex Gloves. Latex just comes apart in Diesel
A cheerleader that is good with a camera

Here's my parts in a toy box/bin. It's purple. After huffing diesel for half an hour you won't care.

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Here's my photographer cheering me on. Go Daddy Go! Make Cecilia Go!
It wasn't too creative, but it rhymed...sorta! :)

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My homemade Diesel can. You can tell because it has Diesel written on it in magic marker. The yellow cans were $5.00 more expensive so I said they can keep them for $5 freaking dollars. :poke:

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Hold your breath and pour item B in item A. I poured in about a gallon. Enough to cover most of the parts.

Warning: Don't do this. You can probably set your house on fire. This is all hypothetical stuff. Don't do it. Ever. And don't sue me if you do. I warned you. I aint got no munnies anyway. :buttkick:

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BarryGMC

June 4th, 2014, 11:37 PM

Get cracking. Fyi the wives are way more tolerant of a running and driving rig

FetchMeAPepsi

June 4th, 2014, 11:40 PM

I only had 2 hours to work so I put on my snazzy latex gloves. The diesel ate them off in about 5 minutes.

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I put my effort into scrubbing the very greasy (and stinky) elephant thingy. It cleaned up VERY nice to a polished and rough mix of steel. I hope it doesn't rust before I get it put back in and greased up.

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I cleaned up the knuckle bearings and the wheel bearings. They didn't show any signs of wear at all.

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I bent the grease seal when I popped it out. I found these at Rock Auto for a couple of bucks. The part number is SKF 24898 and it's 0.81 cents! I forgot I found those when I ordered the seals from Quad4x4.com for much higher. Here's the other things these seals fit so we can cross reference part numbers if they stop making this model.

CHEVROLET K10 PICKUP (1960 - 1986)
CHEVROLET K10 SUBURBAN (1960 - 1986)
CHEVROLET K20 PICKUP (1977 - 1986)
CHEVROLET K20 SUBURBAN (1977 - 1986)
CHEVROLET P10 SERIES (1962 - 1967)
CHEVROLET V10 PICKUP 1987
CHEVROLET V10 SUBURBAN (1987 - 1988)
CHEVROLET V1500 SUBURBAN (1989 - 1991)
CHEVROLET V20 PICKUP 1987
CHEVROLET V20 SUBURBAN (1987 - 1988)
CHEVROLET V2500 SUBURBAN (1989 - 1991)
DODGE RAMCHARGER (1974 - 1984)
DODGE W100 PICKUP (1973 - 1977)
DODGE W150 PICKUP (1977 - 1984)
DODGE W200 PICKUP (1973 - 1980)
DODGE W250 PICKUP (1981 - 1984)
DODGE W300 PICKUP (1973 - 1980)
DODGE W350 PICKUP (1981 - 1984)
GMC 1000 SERIES (1961 - 1965)
GMC 1500 SERIES (1961 - 1965)
GMC K1000 PICKUP 1966
GMC K15 PICKUP (1975 - 1978)
GMC K15 SUBURBAN (1975 - 1978)
GMC K15/K1500 PICKUP (1966 - 1974)
GMC K15/K1500 SUBURBAN (1967 - 1974)
GMC K1500 PICKUP (1979 - 1986)
GMC K1500 SUBURBAN (1979 - 1986)
GMC K25 PICKUP (1977 - 1978)
GMC K25 SUBURBAN (1977 - 1978)
GMC K2500 PICKUP (1979 - 1986)
GMC K2500 SUBURBAN (1979 - 1986)
GMC TRUCK (1957 - 1959)
GMC V1500 PICKUP 1987
GMC V1500 SUBURBAN (1987 - 1991)
GMC V2500 PICKUP 1987
GMC V2500 SUBURBAN (1987 - 1991)
JEEP CHEROKEE (1974 - 1983)
JEEP GRAND WAGONEER (1984 - 1991)
JEEP J10 (1974 - 1988)
JEEP J20 (1974 - 1988)
JEEP WAGONEER (1974 - 1983)
PLYMOUTH TRAILDUSTER (1978 - 1981)

Mine:
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FetchMeAPepsi

June 4th, 2014, 11:56 PM

Looks like they fit to me!

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Tiny Knuckle bearings looked good too

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I also threw the spring, knobs, and workings of the hub locking mechanism in the cleaner. They still had some grit on them from the dirt run earlier. They came out shiny and new.

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That's when I discovered I had more takin apart to do!

This fat gear thing had a clip on it on the back. I used my brand spankin new spring pliers out and plucked it off.

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Then this piece fell out the front. The clip was just holding it in by the butt.

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With the grease off the gear thing this sleeve came off too.

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I then found this little snap ring inside the back of it. I took it out, but it didn't release the bushing looking thing inside. I'm not sure it does. I tried banging the bushing and it's housing out but it's not steel. It damages easily so after getting a scratch on it I gave up and just diesel cleaned the heck out of it.

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I rubbed all the parts with dry towels to get the diesel off after cleaning.

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Then I smeared some "peanut butter" Archoil grease on the sleeve area and the little bit that the snap ring had kept inside.

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I smooshed the sleeve back on.

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Then I greased up and slipped the little gear thing back in the front and put the clip on his butt.

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And that was it! I didn't clean the main housing yet because I'm letting it soak. It had some really nasty stuff on it. I'll finish it up tomorrow.

Here's a random picture of a foot that was on my camera. I don't know why, but I know how you guys like pics so here's a grin :teehee: .

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Lessons Learned:

Diesel is a great grease cleaner. It doesn't fume like gasoline so if the wind is blowing you can work with it and not start yammering to buddah or seeing pink elephants.
But it WILL give you a headache after an hour and a half.
Buying parts after 1am will make you stupid.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 5th, 2014, 12:18 AM

Get cracking. Fyi the wives are way more tolerant of a running and driving rig

Don't I know it! :D
She wants Cecilia running so I can go pick up more fence boards and not repair, but REPLACE the fence. I hate diggin fence post holes with a manual digger. Takes about an hour for me for each hole. WHEW! :runforthehills:

Guys, remember this one: Once your wife thinks youre handy because you picked up a junky ol' truck to work on, you'll never get a minutes rest again!

The Blonde: "Youre good at building and fixing stuff now, just go build me a new fence."
Me: "Honey, the guys on the board are helping me every step of the way. A fence is a whole different animal."
The Blonde: "Try it honey. You'll do so great! And it'll look soooo purrrrty when you're done.........I'll rub your back when you get done...."
Me: "Sold."

:bigdance:

Oh, and all those references to "Diesel Gasoline" above, just change them in your heads to "Diesel Fuel". I got called out for that name boo-boo almost before I got it posted :rofl:

Thanks for reading guys! :tiphat:

BarryGMC

June 5th, 2014, 01:20 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 12:36 AM

Trust me I know all about the your handy stuff. Build this and do that. I have 6 brother in laws that can barely change a spark plug. I also know about fence holes. But I long ago gave up digging those by hand. Small diameter holes up to 8 inches with the gas powered auger in the garage and holes up to 36 inch diameter with the bobcat at the shop. A 500.00 dollar bit is cheap compared to two days of sore back work.

I've been considering it. I wonder if I could put one together like my wood splitter? I'll have to give that more thought.

While we're off topic have any of you guys tried these type of screws? I told you I have to build a fence this summer. Well I bought these screws to fiddle with and test out before I get started.

They're made by GRK ( To view some links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Maybe you should introduce yourself with a new topic? ) and they're cut with pilot drilling points and special twists at the top that drill a counter sink too.

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That's all cool enough having one step hole drilling, but the catch is this topper they have built in them. Instead of philips or flathead tops they have a star like this

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I've been using these for a couple few weeks now and I'm throwing away all my old philips deck screws. These GRK suckers don't strip out at all. They also back out when you need them to, even if you drilled them 1/2 inch into some board (like my fence bar LOL). I've stripped out probably 20 screws in the last 4 years trying to hold that bar in place. Every time I remove it I strip a screw.
Now, easy peasy.

And no, I dont work for them. LOL! Now for our regularly scheduled program....

FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 12:46 AM

So old Quad 4x4.com got on the horse and shipped my stuff out before I ordered it. They must have. I got it on Friday

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The roofers want the spot Cecilia's in right now for shingles and stuff so I gotta get her moved. I sent the kids (miss you guys!) and the wife (Hubba hubba!) off to the grandparents (save me some ribs!) for the weekend so I could focus and get some stuff finished. I was really missin my powder puff taking my pics for me by the time this was over and I was slipping and dropping a grease covered phone. :banghead:
Tactical error? Probably. :)

I started this project at 9:30 AM by setting out all my materials I could think of. Including my ever present rubber gloves. I went through 10 pairs today trying to avoid getting grease on other stuff throughout the house.

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I thought, I'll prbably need a lot of paper towels.

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That wasn't even nearly enough. I went through HALF A ROLL :lolsmack2:

I took a razor knife and cut my archoil open. I wanted to have easy access to the grease as I worked and I was pretty sure I'd use a whole tube for each side. I'm glad I did.

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I started with wiping down the socket here with a towel. I didn't diesel clean it (regrets!) and it was covered in old grease.

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Then I wiped out the hole in the brake um...round thing. The round thing that the brass bushing goes into.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 01:02 AM

The next thing I did was grease up that little brass bushing like I was paid to do it. It almost slipped right through the molecules of my hand.

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Then I mashed it into place.

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Next I did this. But I was being stupid.

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I took it off and then I did this. It's easier to get the felt on if you work it over the two big bumps on the front of the socket then slip it over the side. Work it left to right or right to left, not up and down. You'll tear the felt.

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Now do this again :teehee:

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Then I figured I'd be doing those tiny knuckle bearings and they're held in with the big metal surround piece that ties to the steering bar. I grabbed it and scrubbed on it (it had been soaking). Then I saw this on the top of it.

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Someone has been driving her a little hard I guess? It's a pretty good nick in the metal there. That's a pic of the inside, not the outside :(

Nothing I could do about it and it didn't seem to interfere with the movement of the thing so I moved forward. Next I grabbed my knuckle bearings. Remember these are the tiny ones. They're both the same so it doesnt matter which one.

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I finger-scooped about a half of an egg sized blop of peanut butter (Archoil Grease) into my hand and I flipped my bearing over so the bottom was facing me. Then I made a chip in the dip scooping motion, pressing against my hand so it would force grease in through the top lip and out through the bottom. Here's how it looked as it squeezed out the bottom. I was then able to wipe the dark old grease and diesel away.

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Then I greased up the top bearing cup and mooshed it in.

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At this point I figured I wanted to keep things clean so I put down a drop cloth of paper towel. I never dropped anything on it, but it did make a good work area from time to time when I had to lay things down.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 01:25 AM

I greased up the bottom bearing too and pushed it into place. The grease is strong enough to hold it there, but I had my dropcloth too.

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Here I thought I should put my surrounding metal thing that ties to the steering rod back on. That way it would hold the bottom bearing in without question. I went through all the steps to put it back on then I realized I forgot the elephant thing. :pullinghairout:

RE-DO!

I took it all apart and grabbed the elephant thing.

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It came out covered in grease so I thought it should go back covered in grease. If Cecilia wants grease, she's gonna get it! I slathered it on thick and pasty up the entire length of the pipe to the joint.

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I must have had too much grease on my hands to take a pic of the entire thing greased up because the next one I have is this. It's after I shoved the elephant thing back into it's socket. You have to turn it and wiggle it to get it to go all the way in. there's probably gears or something on the other end that need to mesh up.

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Then I greased up the joint real good too.

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Then I put the metal thing here on. It has the ear that connects to the steering rod. Here I am with a finger of grease greasing it up too. Take that!

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Next I put the steel backing plates on the knuckle wiper (?) and the felt thing.
Here's what it looked like. It came in my kit from Quad4x4.com. The bottom of these flares outward so be sure to put the flare going away from the wheel or you'll scratch something.

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Make sure to get the bolts (they come in the kit) put through the holes in the felt properly. Then give it a little 1/2 inch socket action with the impact wrench. BZZZT!

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Then do the same with the bottom one.

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The knuckle thing rubs on that rubber piece we put on for its entire life. I figured it needed some grease to work smoothly so I greased up the knuckle.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 01:42 AM

I forgot to say that I greased up the socket too. :teehee:

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Then I got to looking at all those bolts. Remember how some of them were longer than others on the knuckle bearing covers? Well I figured that one out. They interchanged knuckle bearing cover bolts (the long ones) with brake plate-looking thing bolts (short ones). Count 'em! They're the same.

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I grabbed my three metal (tin?) shims and put them on my knuckle bearing cover thing. Then I ran my large bolts into it. They're 9/16" remember?

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One of my bolts wouldn't go in ANY holes. I finally got sense enough to look at it. It looked like someone had pounded on it with a hammer. The threads were messed up.

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I took a hacksaw and tried re-threading it enough that it could catch the threads in the hole. After only 5 or 6 pulls with the hacksaw it cleaned up nicely. I thought I took a pic, but I guess not. Anyway, it worked. I got lucky :bananadance:

Now I greased up the elephant thing a bit more where the brass bushing rides.

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Then I slipped the brake plate-looking thing on the end. I noticed it comes apart in the middle too. Missed that earlier. There isn't anything in there to replace or fix though. My finger shows where it is coming apart.

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I got the plate-thing on and positioned right, with the brake rubber parts at the top.

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Then some more impact action for the 8 bolts. They're 9/16" too of course. BZZZT!

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BarryGMC

June 8th, 2014, 01:44 AM

I have been using those screws for 7-8 years . There are some big lag type screws with the star drive That I used to use all the time when I was building timber frame houses before the housing bust. They even make them with a washer type head. Up to 12 inches or so.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 01:51 AM

Now comes the hub outside part. Here I was practically cheering. I was almost done!
:yeeuh::woohoowave::crazyyippee::yeeuh:

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I flipped the hub point side down so I could get the bearing and seal in the rear of it. Remember I put my bearings on a coat hanger in order so I wouldn't forget how they go?

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I grabbed the largest bearing from the end and started putting grease inside it just like the knucklebearings, wiping away the dirty stuff that comes out as the grease goes through.

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I greased up the spot it goes into too and dropped it in place.

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Next my 0.81 cent grease seal. I greased the outside of it and put it in with gentle hammer taps.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 01:56 AM

I greased up the inside of the seal and slipped it over the elephant.

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Then I greased up the front bearing the same as all the others (not shown due to greasy fingers. Surely you get the idea by now!)

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And slipped it on the elephant too. Then I pressed it all the way back as far as I could get it to go.

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Next came this funny looking nut that goes on the spindle - that's what the stupid thing is called! Arrgh. Elephant thing = spindle. Remember that Mkay?
:banghead:

Ok, this nut goes on with the little post point outward. The post will go into the following washer like thing with all the holes in it.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 02:03 AM

The little knobby thing is shown better in this pic.

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I put that on and got it threaded on as far as I could get it. Then I used a philips screwdriver to spin it down tight, wedging it between the housing and the nut.

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Next came the holey washer bit. It has a cutout that has to go on a certain way along with matching the knob on the nut we just put on. That's why there's so many holes, so it can match both points.

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Sorry for that bad pic. My phone was greasy and nasty by this time and it was hard to hold. It ate concrete a buncha times by now. :ahhhh:

I slipped the last nut on now and spun it down like the one before, with my philips screwdriver.

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Next I grabbed my hub gear contraption. I greased it up inside and out.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 02:14 AM

The greased up hub gear thingy slipped in alot easier than it came out.

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When I got to the new rubber seal I did have to gently tap it with my rubber hammer. Nothing serious at all. I didn't want to break my new rubber-bands even if I did have 10 of them now It went in pretty easy. :jumphappy:

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Then that little flat spring shaped keeper goes on the end. I tried to put it back in like you would do a washer, one side then the other side, but it didn't fit. It turned out its easier to put it in like a spring. Just thread the point in, then work your way around, pressing it into the slot around and around till you get to the end.

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Then...

I greased it up :rofl:

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Now I got my brand new tool for these keepers (that I forget what they're called now) and loaded the keeper on it. Then I slipped it on the spindle. It fit like a greased glove.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 02:24 AM

Now I got the end of my hub ready to reinstall but I discoverd I had it together wrong. I had mashed the end of it onto the metal ring that the disconnecting mechanism rides on upside down. I got a screwdriver and dug it out. It sounds easier than it was. 20 minutes later I got it out.

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See those high points on the gear piece in that pic? Well those should be facing the other way. And it should have this on it. Like this

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I slipped it all back together and ran my allen wrench screws back in. It took a couple of times to get it right. I need to replace my allen screws. they're wallered out.

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After that I just screwed it back on with my philips head screwdriver. Tada! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

I slipped the brake drum back on now. It slides over my hub with no problems.

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I had trouble getting it over the brakes but with moving the brake shoes upwards just a little I finally got it on.

Now I moved on to the steering arm. This rubber cup fell off. I'm lucky it didn't blow away with all the storms we've had lately.

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I filled it with grease :D

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Then I smashed it back on the bolt of the steering arm. Putting the hub back together was so much easier with this arm disconnected.

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 8th, 2014, 02:45 AM

Now I put the bolt of the arm through the steering connection on the wheel. Then I put the castle nut back on. It's 3/4" if my alzheimers isn't kicking in. I did have trouble getting it back on. It wanted to cross thread but I finally got it with....wait for it....some grease applied :rofl:

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It doesn't need to be super tight, just snug until you can get a cotter pin through the hole in the bolt and through the nut castle parts. If it's too tight it won't move smoothly (as me how I figured that one out lol).

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After shoving the pin through the hole I bent it around like the previous one to keep it stuck in there.

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After that I put the wheel on. Lug nuts and all. Really bouncing around with excitement at this point.

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And finally I got to lower the jack. I actually RAN to get the handle :lolsmack2:

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And that was it! I was DONE SON! :rowdybeer::superhappy:

And I ended up with extra grease too. Just a little.

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I finger scooped it out of the destroyed tube...and put it into my other tube! Scottish, remember? Arrrr!! That's a penny saved, my friend!

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I saved my old bolts too just in case I ever need them. Labeled like a good mechanic.

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And put in a larger bag of extra parts, also labeled.

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And that's the end of this saga! Thanks as always to BarryGMC for the hand-holding when I needed it and the kick in the pants when I didn't. And thanks to Jonathon for the parts numbers and extra tips. If not for the two of you I'd have never made it through this. What a heck of a deal, right?

Thanks to everyone else that read my mess here or contributed, or sent me a PM (you guys really should just post so everyone can see the tips. They're good!) or was involved in any way.

And thanks to Quad4x4.com for simultaneously supplying the parts I needed and making my butt pucker up for having to spend over $200 to get them. You guys are great at helping but you should really re-think those $13.00 grease seals :ahhhh:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'll leave you guys with a joke.

Guy 1: I was going to work today and I saw a Scotsman scraping off his wallpaper.
Guy 2: Oh, was he re-decorating?
Guy 1: No, he was MOVING! Har har har!

(because scots are so cheap, get it? He wasn't paying for new wallpaper, no way!)

Anyway, have a great weekend everyone. I'll do the other side this week if I can get enough time but I won't drag you guys through it again. After this I think I'll do the front and rear end. New oil, new gaskets, etc. And I still need to get that transfer case done. The wheels are a-turnin! (And I like them like that!)

:thumbsup:

BarryGMC

June 8th, 2014, 03:31 AM

One more thing get some 60 weight motor oil and fill the knuckle through the pipe plug on the knuckle. I use half wheel bearing grease and 60# motor oil. The knuckle actually is supposed to be filled with 140 gl. But the mix works better IMO. Most old Jeepers use the mix. Next I would pull the diff cover and clean out the pumpkin and refill it with 80-90 gl.

BarryGMC

June 8th, 2014, 03:40 AM

You have a plug like this. Fill it like your trans. Its on the left in this pic.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2014, 04:19 AM

You have a plug like this. Fill it like your trans. Its on the left in this pic.

In this slot here?

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2014, 04:44 AM

I know I said I wasn't going to talk about the driver's side hub, but...well I learned a couple more things so I thought I should share!

First, there's a steering part on top of the drivers side that you CAN NOT REMOVE. Ok, maybe you can, but I can't. It's molded from one piece of steel as far as I'm concerned. :pullinghairout: :pullinghairout: :pullinghairout:

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I took the nuts off the top and hammered the crap out of the bottom part of it but it never moved. I took a screwdriver and cleaned around it and finally I found what I thought was a lock washer on it. I stuck a screwdriver into the cut and hammered it to get it to spin around the bolt. It moved.

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I finally spun it around enough that it came out. It's threaded inside, but not very deeply. You do have to spin it around till it comes out apparently.

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There are four of these in that steering top piece. I got two of mine out, but the last two wouldn't come out at all. I finally ended up taking the bottom knuckle bearing bolts out and just pulling the top off, then setting it aside.

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Oh and here's something else cool/crazy. This is my brass bushing for the driver's side. WOW :ahhhh:

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So that had to be replaced. I already had one in stock from my quad4x4.com order so that's good. They're hard to find. Then I got that steering thing off and check this crap out! :banghead:

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The bottom pic is hard to see but both of the places where my bearings go are chewed plumb up! It looks like someone leaned a dremel tool on them (a small grinder) and went out for pizza. I thought to myself OMG how can I ever afford new axles if this is all torn up?!?!?!?

Cecilia, you're breakin my heart! You're shakin' my confidence daily!

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Then I noticed something......:headscratch:....what's that??

A ray of hope....

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BarryGMC

June 17th, 2014, 05:00 AM

That inner bushing is probably the noise you heard in 4x4. I will tell you though that steering arm has to come off. Looks like we are both breaking knuckles on a front end.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 17th, 2014, 05:11 AM

You see in this pic that the bottom slot where the bearing sits is stepped? Like, there's the main hole, then a smaller step inward? Yeah...I notice that and my wheels started turning. I wonder if GMC allowed for just this type of problem to happen?

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I got my booger picker (metal pick) out and dug around the top and what do you know, it looks like there's a sleeve pressed in a hole there to hold the bearing! That means that if this comes out I can just replace this and BOOM baby! We're back in business! :yourock: Thank you GMC!

I stuck my crowbar in it. It just fit enough to get a hold of the bottom of that lip inside. I pried.

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And pried, and turned, and pried. The little insert started peeking over the top of the hole it was in. Woohoo! :woo: Finally the little booger popped right out!

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YAY!!!! :bananadance:

I tossed that piece of junk. Then I put my small hammer in the hole for the bottom insert.
It fit perfectly, so I banged on it with my sledge. It flew across the driveway :lolsmack2:

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I ran down to OReiley's and gave the guy $30.00 of hard earned cash. He was so happy to get my donation he gave me these.

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I greased up the sleeve thingy with my Archoil super-grease.

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Then I hammered it home with short little taps. Tada!

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I'll be putting it all back together tomorrow. Hopefully there won't be any more surprises. I gotta get some honey-dos done this week or The Blonde's gonna jerk a knot in my tail! :ahhhh:

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 18th, 2014, 02:52 AM

Today I got 'er finished. A couple of things to note. The expensive $10.00 grease seals I got from Quad4x4.com were quite a bit different than the ones I got from RockAuto, and not in a good way. Take a peek. The rubber-band thin one on the right is from Quad4x4. It's almost HALF the size of the RockAuto one.

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Look at the inside here. The one on the left is the RockAuto (good) one.

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Notice on the Rock Auto one it has a little spring that goes all around the inner seal too that keeps it on target. Here's the part number again for anyone that needs to replace their grease seal.

CR Services 24898

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The second thing I ran into is this silly bushing again. On the passenger side I could hook a finger in and pull the old one out, then just as gently work the new one in. On the driver's side it had disintegrated so removal involved chiseling it out, but putting the new one in - well it didn't fit. I couldn't get it worked down inside it at all.

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I finally had to tap it down gently with a hammer but the whole time I thought it was going to shatter and I'd have to buy a new one. I even thought about using my little Willys Jeep bushing from the Dana 25, but I gave that away a long time ago and couldn't scare one up locally.
Are they supposed to be banged in? Or should they just fit?

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Anyway that was all she wrote. I got it all buttoned up- Oh wait, one more thing. I got to this point and finished putting the bolts around the spindle thingy:

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Then I got the hub installed all the way out to the selector switch...and got so excited I grabbed the tire and slapped it on. The only thing I forgot?
:toofunny:

The brake drum! :lolsmack2:

That first stopping experience would have been fun! Luckily I noticed it laying by the garage door before I got her off the jack. Powder puff ran the lugs back off and we had it back on in record time. Mario Andretti would have been proud of her :)

That's it for hubs. Now about that engine knock...It got less knock-y after I put some STP Zinc additive in there. I ordered some of that Archoil friction modifier too so we'll see if together they can get Cecilia quiet.

:thumbsup:

FetchMeAPepsi

June 21st, 2014, 01:59 AM

I posted this in the engines section too, but I like to keep anything I do in my build so this is a repost.

After Cecilia started knocking with the last oil change I did decide to go ahead and get some Archoil friction modifier. It came in this week. It's FORTY freakin dollars for 16 oz, shipped.

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It had a sales sheet with it too. One of the more interesting things it said was that the Boron used makes for a good, hard surface for preventing wear that's similar to diamonds in hardness.

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An added bonus is that you don't use a whole 16 oz per oil change. You only use 1.12 oz per quart, meaning this is a little over two oil changes worth.

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I'll be putting it in this weekend to see if it changes the knock.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 22nd, 2014, 03:32 AM

I got my Archoil friction modifier in today. I measured out 7 oz in this handy measuring cup I had lying around a cabinet in the kitchen, mostly unused for the past 15 minutes or so.

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It looks like watery oil. Nice.

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Then it went down the hatch.

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And it still knocked. So I looked online at why engines knock and I learned something. There's a piston inside the motor. Most people know that. Ok, so that piston goes up and down when the spark plug fires.

Imagine how a guy cuts firewood. You swing the axe over your head and whoosh! Bring it down on a log. That's how a piston works if the axe head were the piston. Kinda. So knocking is like the shoulder of the lumberjack making noise. Say he's been swinging an axe for 30 years. He's kinda long in the tooth for axe work and his shoulder is kinda worn out.

When he brings the axe up his shoulder pops as his arm moves downward in the socket from the weight of the axe. That's a knock. When he swings downward it pulls on his arm and it knocks again because the shoulder goes forward in the loose socket.

Here's a drawing of what goes on inside there for the smart fellas.

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Where that arrow is on the connecting rod is where the socket gets worn, right where it swings around the crankshaft. At least that's how I understood it. You can youtube for an hour and see all kinds of reasons for engines knocking (maybe they just need to drop off a package? :ups: ) but that's what I got for my reason.

So that part of the motor is right there when you take off the oil pan. If that's all there is to it, I'm wondering now why everyone says "That motor's trash brutha!. You hear her knocking, that's the Reaper at the door!" :noway:

I think it shouldn't be too hard to change out those little bearings considering everything else I've done so far, right? It will run up my budget a bit more and that's unplanned, but what good is a truck if she don't run?

I'm going to study up on that a little more and see, but I think that's what I'm gonna do right now.

FetchMeAPepsi

June 22nd, 2014, 03:33 AM

Oh and Foley, this one's for you buddy :)

I used Ol' Max to pull out a brown turkey fig tree that hadn't been producing for the last oh, 5 or so years. The Blonde said it had to go so I looped some old cotton rope around it and RRRRIIPPPP! Like an old tooth! :lolsmack2:

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FetchMeAPepsi

June 26th, 2014, 11:57 PM

Just a quick update here.

I had a little trouble turning the hubs right after reassembling them. This thing is called a "Strap Wrench".
It's great for looping around the hub and getting it turned a few times till it's all greased up or loosened up enough to move freely. You can get them for about $4.00 at Wally World (Wal Mart)

A couple of turns and it was moving freely by hand :thumbsup:

BarryGMC

June 27th, 2014, 04:34 AM

What's up with the sound?

FetchMeAPepsi

June 27th, 2014, 04:43 AM

What's up with the sound?

The engine sound? I have family over this weekend so I'm limited on what I can do, but right now the plan is to pull off the oil pan and poke at the piston rods to see if they wiggle. If they do, I'll hunt down some rod bearings :)

If that's not right, please let me know. I'm making my plan based off Googling. They can't put things on the internet that aren't true, right? :teehee:

Bon-Jooor!

3DZbSlkFoSU

BarryGMC

June 27th, 2014, 05:05 AM

Hey pep is this your first oil change on Cecilia?

FetchMeAPepsi

June 27th, 2014, 05:49 AM

Hey pep is this your first oil change on Cecilia?

Yes, it's the first one.

BarryGMC

June 27th, 2014, 06:06 AM

It sounds more like a main bearing.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 14th, 2014, 04:31 PM

Just a quick "Whatcha doin" update for everyone. Cecilia's parked and taking a break. In the meantime I'm still working on a project that I'll show you guys for Aphaynes. If it works, we'll all need it eventually :)

On my off time I ran off to see a surgeon again and while we were talking he jumped up and cut some spots off my head. Thankfully he got over that and sewed me back up. I'm stuck inside for the next week healing up and itching LIKE CRAZY!!! :pullinghairout:

Once I'm cleared for fun again I'll be doing some of the tests in this thread here for my sick baby's engine knock.
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Aphaynes, Rusty's prototype 4 and 5 was a fail. I'll get back to work on it Wednesday and Friday. :newidea:

aphaynes

July 14th, 2014, 04:40 PM

Aphaynes, Rusty's prototype 4 and 5 was a fail. I'll get back to work on it Wednesday and Friday. :newidea:

Didn't realize you were prototyping something...now you got me all curious!! :yourock:

Hope you get back into action quickly...dang doctors. :poke:

Foley

July 15th, 2014, 06:42 PM

[QUOTE=FetchMeAPepsi;53867]Oh and Foley, this one's for you buddy :)

I used Ol' Max to pull out a brown turkey fig tree that hadn't been producing for the last oh, 5 or so years. The Blonde said it had to go so I looped some old cotton rope around it and RRRRIIPPPP! Like an old tooth! :lolsmack2:

Thank you Fetch. I'm pretty jazzed by the useability of that bigol machine. But I'm even more curious bout how do you move it along thru your back yard? Those little wheels on Ol' Max aren't zactly grass friendly.

FetchMeAPepsi

July 18th, 2014, 10:48 PM

Didn't realize you were prototyping something...now you got me all curious!! :yourock:

Hope you get back into action quickly...dang doctors. :poke:

Well don't get too excited because I dont want to disappoint, but it's coming along. The hardest part is DONE AND WORKING today. :bananadance:

Thank you Fetch. I'm pretty jazzed by the useability of that bigol machine. But I'm even more curious bout how do you move it along thru your back yard? Those little wheels on Ol' Max aren't zactly grass friendly.

No they arent! :lolsmack2: I folded it up and pulled it toward me so the legs would fall to the back (with a CLANG) then I spun around and let it lean against my back while I hot-footed it across the yard banging and bouncing like a cat with a can on his tail. It was pretty funny according to the peanut gallery that was watching.

Aphaynes I sent you a PM for Rusty :puterpunch:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 7th, 2014, 04:24 AM

<whispers> Pssst! Hey!

You guys wanna work on a "junky ol' truck"?

:iagree:

Yeah, me too :woohoowave:

Follow me! (sneaks off into the garage) :dogrun:

This is how I've felt almost all summer while I did honeydos:

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This is how I feel when I get to work on Cecilia

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See? His face is about to explode from happiness! Or constipation. The look is interchangeable. :lolsmack2:

Today me and the Powder Puff took a break from fence building to blow off some steam. We popped on the compressor, pulled out the old sand blaster again and grabbed a bag of Black Beauty blaster media. I bought it before I knew what I was doing. It was $40.00 for every 10 lb. bag and that's too dang expensive for something that can just blow away in the wind.

The sand blaster

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The blasting dust, which I just found on Ebay for $1.00 a pound. Another lesson learned :bigyikes:

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Then we pulled out one of Cecilia's old steel rims. I know, I know. She needs me to peek at her engine and a bunch of other stuff, but we needed something we could handle quickly that wouldn't break the bank.

We started with an orangey rusty somebody-done-tried-to-paint-it mess with deep paint runs in places and a lot of puddling in the corners. I had a pic of that but I lose'ded it.

I blasted the wheel - whoosh! And it all went in my eyes and nose. We boogied over and put some eye protection on and tried again. Much better.
I had the Powder Puff stand out in the yard and blasted while I held my breath, then stopped to breathe, lather, rinse, repeat.

Here's most of the wheel done. The orange looking bits are the original rust and yuck.

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Then we got the blower out and blew the dust and crap off of it.

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A spare board under it to protect the concrete...

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Then we taped all around the edges - on this old tire it really doesn't matter. I need new ones anyway. This one got cut up so I could put feet on my compressor to protect it from vibration on the concrete floor :signthankspin:

We taped up the valve stem too so it didn't turn out some oddball color and refuse to take air :lolsmack:

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Then ya gotta hit it with Ospho rust converter for all those little spots you missed.

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24 hours later, get some paint on her. I chose Valspar Outdoor for metals in white. After a few months it should calm down to a less stark color and look close to original if my patio furniture ages the same way.

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Here's a shot of the first coat. We'll give her four coats total.

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And that was it for today. Tomorrow we'll do the same thing on the back of this wheel and maybe get another one done. Then we'll carry them around to tire shops looking for tall skinny tires to put on them, and a spare wheel to add to the collection. Cecilia came with no spare, but four of the bullet hole wheels you see her wearing all the time. Not good enough for my girl!

OH! And one more VERY IMPORTANT thing. I was taking the kids around the block in Cecilia the other day and like some of you guys know I've been having trouble getting her from 1st to 2nd and 3rd gears. I read a writeup that sounded so smart and made sense that said the fork wears down and you need to take the whole steering column apart, weld more metal into the shifting link...fork? Shuttle? The little thing that flops on the steering column between R/1st and 2nd/3rd linkages. Anyway, take that off, weld it more, then put it back together. I thought for sure that was in my future.

For now I've just been getting out of the truck, rocking it a little, and pulling it by hand into first gear when it gets stuck.

DUMB. :banghead:

Back to my story, I was taking The Boy and the Powder Puff for a spin around the neighborhood, just touchin' on Cecilia so I keep my interest high, and she locked up again. So I hopped out, grabbed the linkage for 1st gear, and started the delicate dance of moving it back to first without pinching my fingers.

As I look back up to get in the truck, an old bearded guy that looks like a skinny version of Godwin from Duck Dynasty hollered from his house about 40 feet away - "Hey, is that one of them ol' GMCs with that Big Block V6 in it?"

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I said with a huge grin, "You bet! The original 305!" He ambled over and took a look and spun a yarn about how he didn't see much of these anymore and they sure could pull. We talked a bit, which it to say he talked because I REALLY stink at social stuff (never know what to say) and he eventually asked me what stopped me there. I told him and pointed out my fork/shuttle thing needing welding. He said, "That don't need weldin, that's yer NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT. You jes' loosen 'er up and move this like this, and...go give that a try." I did and it was perfect!

Turns out the guy had a shop that worked on old trucks and cars from back in the 50s and 60s and he saw this kinda thing all the time. Now I'm gonna pass that info on to you guys :thumbsup:

Here's the spot under the hood on the steering column that gets caught between gears. You can yank and snatch on the shifter all you want, you ain't gonna get it back in place.

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Now run inside and shift it into neutral. Set the brake unless you've got fast legs, you'll be chasing your truck in a minute!

Run back outside and look at how the R/1st and 2nd/3rd linkages are lined up. If they aren't lined up so you can flick that little shuttle/fork thing back and forth really easily, you need to loosen the nut on the shaft that is lowest (because of gravity, is why) and move it upward. On mine it was this one.

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Move it up and tighten the nut back down. Then check it again. If it moves freely then you're all set! I haven't had a problem since and I didn't even have to drag the welder out! :yourock:

One more thing, I haven't been online in about a month or more so all you guys with PMs to me gimme a couple of days to catch up. I always answer every PM. If I don't , I'm dead! :ahhhh:

BarryGMC

September 7th, 2014, 05:26 AM

I had a bit of a vacation. But I have missed the FMP. Hope you are well. Get after it. Barry

BarryGMC

September 7th, 2014, 05:32 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 7th, 2014, 01:11 PM

I am a bit melancholy tonight. Been listening to bob wills . Edie cochrain and the stones . Plus a beastie boy song or two. Working on a old school truck. Glad your back. I said that already. But you are my favorite poster. Barry.

Thanks Barry. You know I couldn't have gotten this far without your help.
The Powder Puff and I cranked up the 50's songs yesterday during work time. She's still asleep today haha.

A little of our playlist:

Dream Lover - Bobby Darin
Sleepwalk - Santo and Johnny
Put your head on my shoulder - Paul Anka
Charlie Brown - The Coasters
(Why must I be a) Teenager in love - Dion and the Belmonts
Along came Jones - The Coasters (Powder Puff loves this one)
At the Hop - Danny and the Juniors

When I work outside I often listen to a CCR pandora station that has a bunch of 70's stuff but when we get on Cecilia we like to pretend it's 1962 and she's brand new but mistreated so we have to fix her back up. :thumbsup:

What are you workin on?

Andice

September 7th, 2014, 04:52 PM

Andice

September 7th, 2014, 05:21 PM

This is similar to what I am talking about. The area where this guy has done some welding (1st image) is where the two arms need to be aligned. This is different on our trucks but the principle is the same.

GMCDAC

September 7th, 2014, 11:20 PM

Thanks Barry. You know I couldn't have gotten this far without your help.
The Powder Puff and I cranked up the 50's songs yesterday during work time. She's still asleep today haha.

A little of our playlist:

Dream Lover - Bobby Darin
Sleepwalk - Santo and Johnny
Put your head on my shoulder - Paul Anka
Charlie Brown - The Coasters
(Why must I be a) Teenager in love - Dion and the Belmonts
Along came Jones - The Coasters (Powder Puff loves this one)
At the Hop - Danny and the Juniors

When I work outside I often listen to a CCR pandora station that has a bunch of 70's stuff but when we get on Cecilia we like to pretend it's 1962 and she's brand new but mistreated so we have to fix her back up. :thumbsup:

What are you workin on?

You folks listen to some great tunes! Good info here, and the knowledge those old timer mechanics have is priceless!

I had something with a 3 on the tree (had many) that you would do what you are saying but there were holes in the arms and when a 1/4" (I think) drill bit would slide through the holes you would tighten them up. Can't remember what it was though.

Glad to see an update!

DAC

Jeannie

September 9th, 2014, 02:35 PM

Pepsi,

This message arrived from Coyoterun via email:

Goodness, You "kids" like the same music that was going strong when I was in hi-school, graduated Gentry, Ark, 1958, then on to a hitch driving trucks "over the road", In '62, when Cecilia was born, Uncle Sam pointed his finger at me, so then on to Army, a year in the Korean DMZ, missed "Nam", but always liked the song about the '66 Corvette that came out later. I still have to listen to it now and then.
I used to listen to the same songs when I was working on restoring a '58 Chev. Impala back in the mid-90s. Took it back to our 40th class reunion in '98. Cops closed off main-street one night so us ol' timers could squeal the tires and drag main for a couple of hours. Awwh- great memories from simpler times, from 50+ yrs ago, and your teaching Powder Puff Cec's history thru the old music. but Nuff for now.

-Jeannie
6066 GMC Club

Hantke

September 11th, 2014, 09:02 PM

so are you gonna paint cecilia? or keep her rusty? she could come out nice 'n shiny one of these days!

BarryGMC

September 12th, 2014, 04:20 AM

Hey coyote. I grew up with all that music. But it was my dad that played it. He was just a couple of years younger than you. He has been gone a long time. Do you still the 58 impala ? For nostalgia I will post some pics of my 58. Its a holy crap car. 44.000 miles . 348 250 horse. Turbo glide. Posi. Pb. PS. Turquoise and white. Tri color interior. radio delete. I cant even take it out without being molested. Survivor. But tires and exhaust. Barry

FetchMeAPepsi

September 12th, 2014, 08:02 PM

Fetch: My Henry J had the same issues with shift linkage getting jammed (always in heavy traffic it seemed!) so I feel your pain. There was a metal pry-off cap on top of the shifter box that you could jam full of grease. When the small cap was off you could see where the two shifter arms needed to be lined up so the part that engaged each arm would have a smooth transition from 1st to 2nd gears - if these were not lined up then you would have problems. Kaiser Frazer even made a special tool (Miller Tool Company made it actually)that you could jam into the space between the two arms so they would line up perfectly. First you would have to loosen the nuts on both shift linkages then tighten them up when they were aligned. Forever I thought my problem was worn grommets on the linkage. In the end it was an alignment issue. I am sorry that just found out about your issue. Perhaps I could have shortened your suffering.

That's OK! I'm just glad it's fixed. I should have brought it up but I made that big assumption that I knew what was wrong because of the all the internet searchin I did pointed to welding. You know they can't put things on the internet that aren't true, right? :lol: next time I'm speaking up first! :thumbsup:

You folks listen to some great tunes! Good info here, and the knowledge those old timer mechanics have is priceless!

I had something with a 3 on the tree (had many) that you would do what you are saying but there were holes in the arms and when a 1/4" (I think) drill bit would slide through the holes you would tighten them up. Can't remember what it was though.

Glad to see an update!

DAC

That sounds like a great fix! You know some old guy was fiddling with it one day and thought, Hmm, I wonder... (grabs a drill bit).....SCHLOOP! Yep, it slides through. New rule of thumb!

Pepsi,

This message arrived from Coyoterun via email:

-Jeannie
6066 GMC Club

Thanks Coyote and Jeannie! Coyote that sounds like a fun night. And the cops probably didn't think twice about it. "Youwanna squeal 'em? Lemme get my cones out and you have at it!"

:yourock:

Tell the wife and daughter me and the Powder Puff say "Hi"!

so are you gonna paint cecilia? or keep her rusty? she could come out nice 'n shiny one of these days!

Hantke thats the million dollar question. I have a strict set budget of $4800.00 to spend on her and then that's all she wrote. I love her to death but I won't go sinking money into her that I won't feel good about. I figure if I get in a real bad way I can always sell her for around that and not be out an arm and a leg. We'll have to see how it goes when I get into engine fixins. If I have enough money for paint I just might shoot a couple of coats on her.

Original color, of course!

FetchMeAPepsi

September 12th, 2014, 08:31 PM

The next day we did one more for fun. Here's what they looked like originally

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Powder puff taped it up before we blasted it this time. I ended up blasting all the tape off and I knew it would happen, but she was having fun and I have a bunch of masking tape from all the painting The Blonde does. I'll just borrow another roll :teehee:

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The tires that are on it now are Snow Kings that have this mark on them

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Not very telling. I threw one in the back of the family car to carry to a bunch of mexicans that do tire stuff.

Then we grabbed a new, more classic shift boot that we got from classicparts.com, part number 40-641.

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Packaging:

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The only problem? It didn't come with a ring to go over the boot nor any screws. So we just put it on as it is until I can get those things.

PP unscrews the handle

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PP putting the boot on. Last year she wouldn't have had the strength to do this. She's gettin' old so fast :noway:

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And installed! Kinda.

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That was it for the day.

The music for today was
Dion and the Belmonts - Runaround Sue
The Jersey Boys Soundtrack - Big Girls Don't Cry
Chuck Berry - No Particular Place to go
Bobby Darin - Beyond the Sea
The Isley Brothers - Shout (you know you make me wanna)
Chubby Checker - The Twist
Dion - I wonder why
The Crests - Earth Angel (Also from Back To The Future movie!)
Elvis - Hound Dog
The Regents - Barbara Ann (Bar-bar-bar, bar-bar-Ba'anne!)
Jersey Boys Soundtrack - Walk Like A Man (These remakes aren't too bad)
Frankie Valli - Can't take my eyes off you
The Crew Cuts - Sh-Boom (From the Disney Cars movie)
Elvis Presley - Burnin' Love

FetchMeAPepsi

September 12th, 2014, 08:47 PM

It was cold - and I mean like 60 degrees out today. You guys know me, my blood turns to molasses and I get hibernating when it gets about there. But I had some free time so I drove the family car (The Marshmallow) to see the Mexicans (prounounced "Mes'kinz") about the rim and tires I need.

As always they're freaking ON IT when you pull up to the shop. Running out and handling business. "Yes, sir!" they say.

"Can you guys find a rim and set of tires for me?", I asked.

"Yes sir! We got all kindsa rims. Whatcha got?"

I open the tailhatch and show them Cecilia's old, rusty glass slipper. He frowns and I know that to me it looks like this:

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But to him it looks like this (needle in a haystack):

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"Uhhhh......I dunno about that one. Where did you find it, a Ferd?"

I say, "Bite your tongue. That's a GMC wheel there!" We laughed and he told me to come back in a couple of hours.

Tick tock, tick tock....I get back at 1pm and the fella runs out the most beautiful old wheel I've ever seen next to the four I already got.

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And the kicker is this - I say Great, how much? And you know what he told me? "$40 bucks".

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Sweetest deal I've made in a while. I figured it'd be at least a hundred bucks. When I asked him about the tires he said, "Noooooo, cain't find 'em....But for $80.00 you can get some new."

:bigyikes:

I'll run back in a few days and see about that deal on 5 new tires (one spare). If it's decent tires with the good chunky outside he might have saved me a fortune. I'm a happy camper right now. :crazyyippee:

Foley

September 12th, 2014, 09:27 PM

Forty bucks? hundred bucks? In the ol' country lad, (Scutlund) she woulda been twenty five and not a bit more.

Hantke

September 12th, 2014, 11:17 PM

Forty bucks? hundred bucks? In the ol' country lad, (Scutlund) she woulda been twenty five and not a bit more.

when my only remaining GM wheel blew out and i swapped a spare and got to the tire shop, he traded me two new matching front wheels + 2 new tires for . Imy 1 "vintage"(1996 LOL) GM wheel! it was off a 1996 Oldsmobile Delta 88 (my first car). he was thrilled, and my new front tires were 2-3" taller than my rear tires, so the front felt like it was jacked up like the mafia guys on the TV! best deal ever! (for a broke 17 year old who had to get to work) I went and got a pinstripe hat so that I could drive and bob my head to the music as i drove through the country haha I miss that old car, except when it rained it would fill with water from a hole hidden behind the dash board.

my ADD is showing again.

so how are you liking your media blaster?

FetchMeAPepsi

September 13th, 2014, 02:10 AM

Forty bucks? hundred bucks? In the ol' country lad, (Scutlund) she woulda been twenty five and not a bit more.

REALLY? Dang it! Every time I see them on Ebay they're $150.00 plus $80.00 shipping. I thought I had it made. Oh well.

when my only remaining GM wheel blew out and i swapped a spare and got to the tire shop, he traded me two new matching front wheels + 2 new tires for . Imy 1 "vintage"(1996 LOL) GM wheel! it was off a 1996 Oldsmobile Delta 88 (my first car). he was thrilled, and my new front tires were 2-3" taller than my rear tires, so the front felt like it was jacked up like the mafia guys on the TV! best deal ever! (for a broke 17 year old who had to get to work) I went and got a pinstripe hat so that I could drive and bob my head to the music as i drove through the country haha I miss that old car, except when it rained it would fill with water from a hole hidden behind the dash board.

my ADD is showing again.

so how are you liking your media blaster?

I'm lovin it. It needs refilling about as often as I need a break to shake off the rocks and breathe anyway and it will plumb tear off some rust, let me tell ya! Only thing, it'll beat the top layer of skin off your arms if you arent aiming the right direction.

Oh, and my bed wood got delivered. Quarter sawn white oak :)

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BarryGMC

September 13th, 2014, 02:37 AM

You crack me up pep.

FetchMeAPepsi

September 14th, 2014, 03:33 AM

You crack me up pep.

:giggity:

I was looking at why my old tires have H78-15 on them because that's not a size I recognized like 255/70/R15 or something similar. Then I found this chart that tells me that those tires are Bias Ply tires from the olden days. And it translates to 235/70/R15's which are plentiful. :bananadance:

Click for bigger, like all the others :)

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BarryGMC

September 17th, 2014, 03:53 AM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 17th, 2014, 10:22 PM

OK. Pep. Since you have the hard to find parts for power steering let's talk about the easy part. You really only need a few things. Most obvious is a Saginaw 4x4 steering box from a 68-91 4x4 straight axle truck . Second you need the arm. Most of the time its still on the box. Third you need the drag link. Fourth you need the section of steering shaft that goes from the column to the box. Next you need 4 spacers 3/4 inch thick. Or An adapter from captain Fab. Finally you need to make a pressure hose made up depending on what pump and year box you have. The hardest part is the axle arm mod. But a later model international arm only needs a bit of reamer work. Imo this is the best thing you can do to your rig. I will get some pics for you of the bits. Barry

Thanks GMC advisor Barry! I dunno if I'm ready for it yet. I still have the motor problem to fix, remember? I think I'm going to have to just suck it up and get some "get me by" tires because Cecilia's quarter sized hole gave up today and popped on me. She's a lame duck now and I can't stand it. I'll post pics in a few. Please do post those pics of the parts and we'll take a run at it after the motor problem is fixed.

Funny story, now when I talk about your advise to The Blonde I say, "My GMC advisor said..." :lolsmack:

FetchMeAPepsi

September 25th, 2014, 01:50 PM

Pulled the trigger on get-me-by tires. Like I mentioned I came out the other day to this

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She's flat as a flitter, but the pic doesn't really show the bend well. Anyway, I replaced the tires with these $80.00 tires.

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They're Hankook Optimo H724 All-Season Tires - 225/75R15 102S. They have a mild piecrust on the edge, but nothing I'm terribly pleased with. I'll have to find some 16 inch wheels to open up my world to better possibilities. Guess I'll add that to the shopping list as I go forward.

To get the wheels ready I needed to pull off the old bias ply tires. The local shop wants $10 each to remove the tire so I think marijuana must have been legalized here and I just didn't know it. They're obviously high.

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Youtube says I can pop the bead by running over them with a car but that failed miserably. They just smooshed down then popped back up. Never busted the bead.

Next I'll try putting a jack on them and putting them under Cecilia. I'll let ya know how that goes...

GMCNUT

September 25th, 2014, 02:31 PM

FetchMeAPepsi

September 26th, 2014, 01:38 AM

just bought a full set of 235 70 R15 white walls (correct for these 60's trucks) mounted and balanced w/ tax and out the door for $376.50 - will post a pic later. Couldn't believe the price - they are an off-brand of course, but they are a new tire being made from an old original mold some company bought that was used back in the 60's to cast these tires originally....can send anybody the name etc to see if you can get these where you live too

That would be great! Please post some pics too.

I had some luck with the drive over method today. I thought I'd give it one more shot driving closer to the rim, as close as I dared (actually scuffed up one rim on the driving car, :pullinghairout:) and it worked!

The tools:
One vehicle that runs and drives
One sledge hammer, 3 lb or so.
One crowbar
One big ol' flathead screwdriver. Or something really tough to pry with.

First drive over the tire like this and PARK THERE. Don't move around, just park.

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Then get out and put the crowbar on the tire where the bead locks in.

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Hammer the crowbar down with the hammer. If you're lucky, break the bead. (See side two below). If it breaks the bead the tire will be easy to push down from the rim on the side you're working on when you step on it. Just step on it all the way around and it'll peel off like an orange peel.

Then back off of it again and flip the wheel over. Repeat.

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This one wasn't so lucky. If you drive on it and hammer the crap out of it and it isn't letting go, back off of it again and flip the tire around 180 degrees and drive back on the other side. That worked every time for me. If it doesn't work for you turn the tire by 1/4ths (12 oclock, 3 oclock, 6 oclock and 9 oclock) until it does break free.

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Finally work your crowbar back in under the lip and pry the crap out of it till it pops up and over. You might need to adjust the other side of the tire, that you're not prying on, to get more slack on the side you are prying on.

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Once it's pried up work your screwdriver around. I only had to do about 3 pries with the screwdriver on this side before I could peel the tire off by hand, and I'm a weenie armed pecker necked guy.

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It took 30 minutes for the first one, 15 for the second, and 20 for the last two. I'd book 2 hours to be safe before trying this at home. :)

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UP next, more sandblasting and mounting my own tires! Learning is awesome, isn't it?

BarryGMC

September 26th, 2014, 02:03 AM

OK pep. You are killing me. I have a tire machine an old coats 10-10
And a bubble balancer. I still pay the 40 to mount and balance 4 tires. I will give you a thumbs for tenacity.

GMCDAC

September 27th, 2014, 01:53 AM

Yeah, I used to do racecar tires like this a lot when I was a much younger, and even now on my own trucks I do my tire work on an old Coats we have at work. Gotta save money somewhere so my stuff gets cheaped out on. Part of the reason why I drive old GMC's too is they are cheaper than a car or truck payment so the wife can drive something fairly new. Since my trucks are beaters, I gotta try to keep a couple running all the time in case one breaks down----LOL!

I too give you a thumbs up as the "More time than money" thing is known to happen. Just a good thing you are a lot younger, for this job, weenie arms and all!

Oh yeah, around here the tire mounting price is 10 to 15 bucks each PLUS another 60 bucks to balance all 4. Mounting is free if you bought tires but they still stick it to you for the balance. $2.50 each for valve stems too. And another thought, they charge $2.50 each to dispose of the dismounted tires which is much cheaper than if you were to take them to the dump yourself. The dump charges 6 to 10 bucks each to throw away tires, depending on size and that is just car and light truck tires. Higher yet for bigger tires!

Sorry about the rant about how darn much this stuff costs!

DAC

FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2014, 07:59 PM

OK pep. You are killing me. I have a tire machine an old coats 10-10
And a bubble balancer. I still pay the 40 to mount and balance 4 tires. I will give you a thumbs for tenacity.

Heh! I probably shoulda paid, but I got more time than sense :lolsmack2:

Yeah, I used to do racecar tires like this a lot when I was a much younger, and even now on my own trucks I do my tire work on an old Coats we have at work. Gotta save money somewhere so my stuff gets cheaped out on. Part of the reason why I drive old GMC's too is they are cheaper than a car or truck payment so the wife can drive something fairly new. Since my trucks are beaters, I gotta try to keep a couple running all the time in case one breaks down----LOL!

I too give you a thumbs up as the "More time than money" thing is known to happen. Just a good thing you are a lot younger, for this job, weenie arms and all!

Oh yeah, around here the tire mounting price is 10 to 15 bucks each PLUS another 60 bucks to balance all 4. Mounting is free if you bought tires but they still stick it to you for the balance. $2.50 each for valve stems too. And another thought, they charge $2.50 each to dispose of the dismounted tires which is much cheaper than if you were to take them to the dump yourself. The dump charges 6 to 10 bucks each to throw away tires, depending on size and that is just car and light truck tires. Higher yet for bigger tires!

Sorry about the rant about how darn much this stuff costs!

DAC

That's oK! Im glad I can do it at home or it wouldn't get done for a long time. I gotta schedule every outing since we have all the kids and loading up 5 tires in the kid-mobile requires babysitters and several blankets. :bigyikes:

FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2014, 08:17 PM

I decided to build a tent this time so I could save some of my blast media.

Remember this from the "hey, can you kill yourself removing a truck bed?" post earlier?

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I dragged it over where I could reach it with the air compressor and had The Boy hold it up for me. Powder Puff was doing something else, chasing a butterfly I think. I grabbed an old rotten deck plank and tied it to the top with my newfound JERK (grk) screws. I should be getting some kinda kickback from them for this lol.

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About that time Powder Puff ambled over to see what we were making so I let her hold the next one for the other leg of our 3 walled frame.

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When it was done it looked like this:

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I found these tarps on sale at Academy Sports about two weeks ago. PUttin em to use now.

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I put one under my contraption to act as a floor and catch all my media

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Threw one over the top

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And one crossways over the sides. That made one full wall on one side and one half wall on the other, and one side had no wall at all to easily get my fat butt in and out with the hose and the wheels.

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When it was done I turned around for I KID YOU NOT two seconds and it was infested with children. I need to spray.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2014, 08:33 PM

The materials I needed:

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I picked up the hood from Ebay. It fogs up if it gets too hot but it does keep the dirt out of my lungs. Black Beauty is supposed to be safe for minor dust to breathe but I still get nervous about it.

Oh :threadjacked: heres a side by side of the old and new tires. Old tires are wider ones on the top and right. The new ones are quite a bit thinner. Maybe I can turn Cecilia in a parking lot now.

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The infestation is rampant.

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This is my go-to primer. It's pretty cheap for a six pack on amazon. About 25.00.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 3rd, 2014, 09:04 PM

I got to blasting then and dust went everywhere.

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I blasted the entire outsides. I didn't think I should do the inside but I did a little semi blasting there to get the bigger, deeper scale off anyway. I hope it still holds air OK. It just has surface rust now.

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When I finished blasting I pulled the tarps back. I did blow a hole through the floor in two places and sent who knows how much media through them before I noticed. I also blew a lot out of a hole on the side where I didn't have them overlapped right.

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Some of those piles were 5 inches thick. Mission accomplished.

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Now to prime them and paint them, then get the tires back on so I can go get more fence boards before ..... :winter:

FetchMeAPepsi

October 9th, 2014, 12:55 AM

I'm going to stop right here and say this

This is a failure move, spraypainting your wheels. Dont do it unless you have NO other option. They chip, they peel, they don't stay painted. Bugs land on them while they're wet. If I had to do it over again I'd pay the money and get them powder coated like I should have done to begin with. I will probably do that when it's time for REAL tires with the piecrust edges at some point in the future.

On the upside I now feel comfy pulling the tires off and putting them on. It's hard work pulling them off on old wheels but if the tire is newer and pliable it's pretty easy. Either case it's well worth saving the $20 bucks if you have time and can handle the work.

(Jafar from Aladdin)
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Back to work I laid out my wheels on my old fence/stand/tarp holder boards in a sort of rotation for painting. By the time I finished the row it had been about 15-20 minutes, time to paint another coat on the first one.

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Some of you that read my stuff might remember the painting stump.

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I sprayed them all with three coats of white.

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Oooo, pretty!

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Then two coats of clear for protection. It didn't make a difference in the end.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 9th, 2014, 01:12 AM

Now it was time to put the new tires on. It's much easier to put them on than it is to take them off. Start by pushing the edge of the wheel into the new tire, wheel face first.

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If you're a fat man you can just walk around it now and it'll push the wheel into the tire. I found I could push most of it in by hand, then use my super sized screwdriver to pry the rest of the way around.

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Once the face is in just flip it over and do the same with the other side. It's pretty easy at this point.

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Poke a new valve in it. I got mine in a four pack off Amazon with a valve stem core remover.

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At this point I tried lots of ways to get the tire to seal so it would hold air. It never did until I came up with this. I put a towel over the painting stump.

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Now I laid the tire on the tree stump and HUFF! picked up on it fast to kind of raise the upper part of the tire onto the bead area of the wheel so it would halfway seal. Ok, not seal, but at least very lightly hold the rim without falling back down. Then I'd slowly lower my hands so it didn't fall back down. Finally I had to pinch the side that was over the valve stem area so it would lip over the stem and form a very crappy seal. This let air flow into the stem, into the tire (and out of the tire too, just not as fast as it went in), and finally that pushed the tire into place as I got up to the recommended 44 psi.

WARNING: Dont touch the tire while you fill it with air! It will POP into the bead and break your neck!

Mine had this pencil thin whitewall, so I turned that part facing the inside so it wouldn't show.

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FetchMeAPepsi

October 9th, 2014, 01:23 AM

Fill with air from the bottom because well thats where the valve stem is!

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And that's about it! If you did it right you now have five new rolling tires. One of my valve stems was cracked so I'm going to have to replace it, but I have four good tires now.

Now to put them on. Oh, for paint I used about 3 1/2 cans of each primer and paint, and 2 cans of clear for the entire shebang. Around $40.00 worth of investment.

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The Boy was pretty involved with this project off and on. He took a break from bike riding to help me carry supplies over to Cecilia. Check out Cecilia's new fence in the background. Woot woot!

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All geared up, I slipped the jack under my baby. She was getting a new pair of slippers and I kinda wanted to drive her around the block for fun.

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Then the unthinkable happened. My hydraulic jack busted! Here's me pointing to the clip that holds the little plunger. It broke clean in half!

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So now I'm waiting on this to show up from from the brown truck :ups:. I thought I'd go old school with a bumper jack that doubles as a come-along/winch.

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Instead of going for a ride we had some snacks and put the tires side by side to compare. The new ones are about three inches'ish taller. I'll take that.

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Foley

October 9th, 2014, 03:33 AM

So Fetch....good job on your new tire project and the progress your making. Anything in the "Gonna Have New Tires" Master Plan about taking them to a tire shop to get them balanced?

Foley,
Greenwood, CA

FetchMeAPepsi

October 10th, 2014, 03:18 PM

I thought about it, but decided to give them a try first. Cecilia's top speed is about 50 mph the ways and places I drive her so balancing may never be noticed. Our average speed is 35 - 40 mph around town. Laaaayyyydddd baackkkk :thumbsup:

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GMCDAC

October 11th, 2014, 01:07 AM

Phat 66

October 19th, 2014, 05:49 PM

More pix -

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Dual original visors :)

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And the damaged pass side. I'm going to bang around on it some, but am not entirely against buying a replacement.
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Now That's a aback Bumper

Vernski

October 21st, 2014, 03:33 AM

How are you and your little helpers doing Fetch? My comment on the bumper is if some one rears ya it will only scratch it a little but they are not going to be driving away from it...Vernski:tank:

FetchMeAPepsi

October 23rd, 2014, 05:12 PM

Hi Foley and Fetch, showing how cheap (or broke) I am too, when I bought the "Primewell" tires for my '55 GMC I decided to risk not balancing because it's just under 70 bucks for 4 around here. I was pleasantly suprised that at 65 mph it drives very straight and smooth, no shake or vibration at all! Actually got it to 70 for awhile still great but I stay 65 or below as the r's were getting a little high.

I would remove the old weights though Fetch, see one in a pic you posted.

DAC

I didn't see the weight thing until just now DAC, but I can report that the wheels are turnin just purrrrrfect as they are now. I guess the weight was for the wheel being off somehow and it's still doing something to keep it good? Anyway, she's turnin and burnin!

Now That's a aback Bumper

Thanks! It brings all the diesels to the yard :lolsmack2:

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How are you and your little helpers doing Fetch? My comment on the bumper is if some one rears ya it will only scratch it a little but they are not going to be driving away from it...Vernski:tank:

We're all doing great! The Little Blonde jumped off her bed (monkeys?) and cracked herself dead center on a nightstand corner that was pretty bad. It looked like someone had hit her with a hatchet right in the forehead. We had to watch her pretty close for three days but she healed right up and is now just as crazy as before. Probably have to watch that one. :ahhhh:

Powder Puff and The Boy are doing great. The Boy just joined Cub Scouts so we've been busy with a bunch of that stuff. Went to the local historical museum and the danged "tour guide" didn't even know what anything was that wasn't written on the plaque. We kinda did our own tour afterward so he could learn what I knew about some of the old stuff. Disappointing for me, but he loved every minute of it. Funny how that kinda stuff works out.

The Redhead is in her senior year and heading off to college soon. Scary stuff. I told her I'd let her handle her grades and watching her time management this year till she messed up. She had a little stumble this week due to a friend's b-day party but she's cleaned it up. I worry she'll lose her mind when she goes to a dorm and never make it to med school. No scholarships or anything fancy either plus we don't do debt so no loans either. It's going to be a tough one, but if she sticks with it she'll do fine. She's got the brain, it's just that her clutch slips every couple of months or so.

Well that got more detailed that I planned. Back on trucks,

I bought a Hi Lift jack like I said:

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I got the Extreme version this time. the first time I ordered the 48 inch regular version and UPS lost it. So I ordered the Extreme version in 60 inch the next time and it works great for pulling fence posts along with having more lift room. You'd think 60 inches is way too long to be wieldy but it's just a normal sized farm jack at that height. Not weird at all.
the 48 would have probably been too little I think.

So I jacked up Cecilia with it and used the HiLift brand offroad base too for stability. It's crap piece of plastic with a very shallow hole to put the jack in.
Big mistake.

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I got her in the air and BAM! The whole thing fell down. Could have busted my leg had I been in the way. I returned the base and ordered one of these bases from Bogart Group

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Much more stable. They have videos of an older guy just pushing and pulling all over that jack and it doesn't fall. Good stuff.

Anyway, my new wheels and tires are on. Tire size is about the same, but they look a whole lot better.

Pics coming. I think my little hatchet head deleted them from my phone. She's not here right now so she's getting blamed :)

aphaynes

October 23rd, 2014, 05:47 PM

I had a similar style bumper jack on my 78 Buick Regal when I was 17. Does this jack also lift via the bumper or do you place it elsewhere?

FetchMeAPepsi

October 23rd, 2014, 08:53 PM

I had a similar style bumper jack on my 78 Buick Regal when I was 17. Does this jack also lift via the bumper or do you place it elsewhere?

With my bumpers it lifts no problem, but I ordered it with a bunch of extras so I can lift by the wheels or the bumper with a bumper attachment. I can use it as a winch too :thumbsup:

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bigblockv6

October 23rd, 2014, 09:57 PM

This High Lift Jack is pretty much a multipurpose jack and a standard for the off roader to carry around, you can use it like a come along or powerpull. I've used mine on my Jeep's bumper and rocker guards to get it up but with the long travel coil suspension on my Jeep it pretty much leaves the tire on the ground and I have to use a regular hydraulic bottle jack to take off a tire & wheel.

FetchMeAPepsi

October 25th, 2014, 12:52 AM

bigblockv6

October 25th, 2014, 02:19 AM

GMCDAC

October 25th, 2014, 03:12 AM

Up around these parts we call them "handyman" jacks. They can be pretty precarious to use sometimes especially if you are trying to do something rediculous alone! An absolutely required tool for truck guys though. Can't believe that some new ones come with a plastic foot!

Here's mine I've had for decades, 48". I welded up a bigger plate that would saddle the foot on it many years ago but can't find it now. Was probably stuck in the mud and I forgot to dig it out. I welded the handle into it also so it could never get pulled out and used for a cheater pipe or something and destroyed or not put back.

I like that rubber deal in the pic, Fetch, that holds the handle in the folded up position. I wrap a bungee cord around mine a few times.

DAC

Andice

October 25th, 2014, 11:50 PM

Around here we call 'em widowmakers.....

FetchMeAPepsi

October 28th, 2014, 02:16 AM

Mine is the 48 inch jack but even so at a overall width of 59 inches I am limited to what I can mount on my Jeep. Considering I've got 8 inches of lift, 35 inch tires and long travel coil spring suspension I think even a 60 inch jack won't quite cut it.

I bet that sucker will climb a brick wall :thumbsup:

Up around these parts we call them "handyman" jacks. They can be pretty precarious to use sometimes especially if you are trying to do something rediculous alone! An absolutely required tool for truck guys though. Can't believe that some new ones come with a plastic foot!

Here's mine I've had for decades, 48". I welded up a bigger plate that would saddle the foot on it many years ago but can't find it now. Was probably stuck in the mud and I forgot to dig it out. I welded the handle into it also so it could never get pulled out and used for a cheater pipe or something and destroyed or not put back.

I like that rubber deal in the pic, Fetch, that holds the handle in the folded up position. I wrap a bungee cord around mine a few times.

DAC

It was pretty cheap too. I got it at Amazon. I really like that SafeJack attachment that I'll post a video to in a second....

Around here we call 'em widowmakers.....

Tell me about it! When it popped out I freaked and decided that was enough for me. Until I got this:

x3_axnCyd8Y#

FetchMeAPepsi

October 28th, 2014, 02:31 AM

I was asked about my future plans in another thread. I'm going to post them here to kinda be a guide for myself and you guys. Here's what I'm wanting to do if everything goes smoothly...

Finish my fence building
Fix whatever's popped up to make her not start. Embarrassed me at Lowes this weekend :(
Pull bed off again now that I don't need it every weekend
Finish rebuilding the Rockwell T221 Transfer Case
Change fluids and seals on front and rear differential
Paint everything with Por 15 under there to keep it safe from the rust monster
Paint the bumper and put some bedliner in foot areas to look more modern.
Put the bed on some kinda stands so I can weld up holes, beat out dents, and...paint? Maybe.
Remove old wood and the rusted through strips, replace both.
Put my fenders back on so she doesn't look like a little girl with her skirt tucked in her drawers in the back.

I may have posted this already so sorry if I did :)
Fence building is going from this

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To this:

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with some of this:

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to end up with this:

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It uses 2x4s and decking boards for the planks and supports, and big ol' fat ground treated 4x6's sunk 2' 6' in concrete for the posts, except for the big gate posts that are all cedar 6x6's, 10 ft long. The decking boards are shrinking as the treatment evaporates off of them from the factory so I'll have to move them to fill in the gaps once they're all dry in spring. You know, just snug them up again. I should end up with about 4 more boards worth of width the way they're sucking up! :ahhhh:

And here's my baby in her new stable. See the tires? They don't look too different. I'm happy with how easy they turn too. It's a noticeable difference.

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I'll be fiddling with the starting problem next...Hey, it's on my list! :puterpunch: